Hydrodynamic Modeling of Waves, Currents, and Transport in Coastal Areas

The main purpose of this study is to set up a biogeochemistry model for the Ria de Aveiro ecosystem and evaluate the relative importance of the main parameters and the processes occurring at the interface between the water column and the upper layer of the bottom sediment. It addresses a gap in modeling the interactions between the biogeochemical status of the water column and the upper sediment layer in the Ria de Aveiro lagoon ecosystem. Traditional modeling studies treated the bottom sediment as a rigid boundary, ignoring significant biogeochemical interactions at the interface between the water column and the upper layer of the bottom sediment. Therefore, the model integrates, besides the main biogeochemical processes within the water column, those occurring at the upper benthic layer, focusing on nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) cycles. This approach aims to enhance the accuracy of model predictions and understanding of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon’s biogeochemical dynamics. The study will be focused on the following coupled state variables: TN/IN and TP/IP, for total and inorganic nitrogen (N) and total and inorganic phosphorus (P), respectively, where total stands for the sum of organic and inorganic components of those elements. The model was set up and validated for some water quality stations of the Ria de Aveiro. Analysis has identified key parameters influencing TN and TP, such as nitrification, denitrification rates, and oxygen penetration. TN was found sensitive to nitrate and ammonium diffusion coefficients, while TP was influenced by iron–phosphate interactions and phosphorus mineralization. Concerning the model validation, the results demonstrated that the RMSE and MAPE values for the main variables fall within an acceptable range, given the uncertainty related to data. The model was applied to assess the impact of the following physical forcing: river flow, water temperature, and salinity on N and P status of the water column. The results clearly demonstrate that bottom layer and water column interactions play an important role in the N and P status of the water column and contribute to the N and P concentration changes of the water. The influence of river flows alone led to contrasting behaviors among the lagoon stations, with significant increases in TP levels, which may be attributed to sediment release from the sediment layer. Nevertheless, the combination of high river flows and elevated nutrient levels at the river boundaries has led to significantly increased nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) levels, underscoring the influence of river flow on the interaction between bottom layer sediment and the water column. High water temperatures typically lead to an increase in total phosphorus (TP) levels, indicating a possible release from the sediment layer. Meanwhile, TN levels remained stable. Salinity changes had a minor impact compared to river flow and temperature. The study emphasizes the importance of understanding interactions between the water column and sediment, particularly in shallow intertidal areas. Overall, the inclusion of biogeochemical interactions between the benthic and pelagic layers represents progress in ecosystem modeling of the Ria de Aveiro. Full article

This study delves into the morphodynamic changes of pebble beaches in response to storm events, employing a combination of observational and numerical approaches. This research focuses on three extreme events, meticulously examining morhological changes in intertidal topography on the beach of Etretat (Normandy, France). A robust dataset of daily beach topography, derived from video monitoring systems, validates a set of numerical simulations of cross-shore dynamics performed by the process-based model XBeach-G. Our study evaluates the model’s efficacy in estimating beach profile evolution under high-energy conditions and explores its sensitivity to the physical properties of pebbles, including permeability. The results underscore the significance of considering spatial and temporal variations in permeability during storms to enhance the numerical model’s accuracy in predicting pebble beach dynamics. Furthermore, this study advocates for the incorporation of grain size mapping techniques to refine numerical model implementations. Full article

Due to the significant mismatch in timescales associated with morphological and hydrodynamic processes in coastal environments, modellers typically resort to various techniques for speeding up the bed evolution in morphodynamic simulations. In this paper, we propose a novel method that differs from existing ones in several aspects. For example, unlike previous approaches that apply a global measure (such as a constant acceleration factor that uniformly amplifies the bed evolution everywhere), we track and extrapolate local trends in morphological changes. The present algorithm requires the setting of four different parameters, values for which we set through an extensive calibration process. The proposed method is compared against the simple acceleration technique built into the popular software XBeach (wherein it is called morfac) for eight different beach profiles (including linear, Dean, and measured profiles). While the accuracy of both methods is generally similar, the proposed algorithm consistently shows a greater reduction in computational time relative to morfac, with our algorithm-accelerated simulations being on average 2.6 times faster than morfac. In light of these results, and considering the algorithm’s potential for easy generalisation to address arbitrary coastal morphodynamic problems, we believe that this method represents an important addition to the toolbox available to the community interested in coastal modelling. Full article

This paper investigates the wind wave deformations above two isolated shallow seamounts using a phase-resolved wave model simulation using the HAWASSI-AB software. The first seamount is located some 8 km from the south coast of Jawa, Indonesia, near Glagah, with its top area about 2 m from the water level, while the second is the Socotra Rock, in the East China Sea, which has a top 4.6 m under the sea surface. The simulations found that isolated shallow bathymetry may generate a crossing sea region endangering ships. In both domains, short-crested wave simulations of second order show strong refraction and diffraction effects when waves run towards and downstream of the top of the seamount. Waves near the summit embrace the seamount and form a focal area with larger waves downstream. After crossing the Socotra Rock, the interaction waves lead to a crossing sea in the deep water. On the other hand, having passed the Glagah, waves further downstream are partly absent over a substantial stretch of the coast. For both cases, the phase-resolved wave simulation results determine detailed wind wave conditions and wave spectra over the whole area, compensating for a lack of experimental data. Full article

The popularity of modern water bikes increases due to the relatively high speed developed with the use of a human muscle power only. For example, the maximum speed of prototypes reaches the value 3 m/s. Similar vehicles can be used not only for recreation and fitness, but also for transportation. To increase their speed and tonnage, we recommend improving the pontoon shape and using electrical power. The underwater part of the pontoon shape was recommended to be similar to the body shape of the fastest fish in order to decrease the wave resistance and total drag. The optimal depth of the movement of corresponding shapes was calculated. The total drag and maximum speeds of the vehicles with the human muscle and electrical power are estimated. Expected success in improving the pontoon shape opens wide prospects for the use of these special-shaped hulls in shipbuilding. Full article

Herein, a numerical model is proposed to simulate the nonlinear wave propagation from deep to shallow water and wave breaking phenomena. In the numerical model, the governing equations selected, in which the momentum equations were added to the eddy-viscous breaking and bottom friction terms to simulate the wave breaking phenomenon, are suitable for the wave propagation from deep to shallow water. The spatial derivations of the governing equations are discretized with the hybrid scheme, combining the finite-difference and finite-volume methods. To numerically simulate the nonlinear wave propagation in waters with various depths accurately, the non-conservative governing equations are reorganized as conservative to facilitate a total variation diminishing (TVD) type scheme using a Riemann solver. Extensive numerical tests of nonlinear wave propagation have been realized in waters with large relative water depths and varying water depths. The comparisons between numerical and analytical or experimental results indicated that the numerical results are reasonable and reliable, and the present numerical model can effectively simulate the wave-breaking phenomenon. Full article