Wearable and Non-Invasive Sensors for Rock Climbing Applications: Science-Based Training and Performance Optimization
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Overview of Climbing
3. Types of Sensors
3.1. Body Movement Sensors
Sensor Type | Sensor Location | System Details | Measurement | Product (Company) | Reference |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Body movement—accelerometer | Hip | Biometric shirt with accelerometer in hip shirt pocket | Triaxial linear acceleration (g) | Hexoskin (Carre Technologies, Montreal, QC, Canada) | [14] |
Body movement—IMU (accelerometer, gyroscope, magnetometer) | Arms, legs, chest | Device with three time-matched sensors | Triaxial linear acceleration (g), rotational velocity (rad/s), earth magnetic field (T) | MotionPod (Movea, Grenoble, France) | [19,20,21] |
Body movement—insole pressure distribution | Insole of shoe | 2D spatial array of force sensors (10 mm resolution) | Vertical force between foot and shoe (Pa) | Pedar-X (Novel, Munich, Germany) | [17] |
Body movement—motion capture system (MCS) | Visible body markers | Multiple synchronized video cameras to capture 3D spatial location | Center of gravity horizontal distance from wall (m), velocity (m/s) | Mac 3D System (Motion Analysis, Santa Rosa, CA, USA) | [22] |
Body movement—force sensor embedded within climbing hold | Embedded within holds on climbing wall | Force sensors within climbing holds with wireless data transfer | Triaxial linear force (Pa) | K3D120 triaxial force sensor (ME-Meβsysteme, Hennigsdorf, Germany) | [23] |
Respiration—airflow | Face mask | Airflow sensor within breathing apparatus, chest/backpack unit | Minute ventilation (L/min) | METAMAX 2B (Cortex, Biophysik, GmbH, Leipzig, Germany) | [24] |
Respiration—O2, CO2 | Face mask | O2, CO2 sensors within breathing apparatus, chest/backpack unit | O2 consumption (L/min) CO2 release (L/min) | METAMAX 2B (Cortex, Biophysik, GmbH, Leipzig, Germany) | [24] |
Respiration—respiratory inductive plethysmography (RIP) | Chest bands | Biometric shirt with RIP sensors in two chest bands | Breathing rate (breaths/min), minute ventilation (L/min) | Hexoskin (Carre Technologies, Montreal, QC, Canada) | [14] |
Heart activity—electrocardiography (ECG) | Chest | Biometric shirt with three flexible ECG sensors | Heart rate (beats/min) | Hexoskin (Carre Technologies, Montreal, QC, Canada) | [14] |
Heart activity—electrocardiography (ECG) | Chest | ECG sensors attached to chest strap | Heart rate (beats/min) | Polar (Polar Electro OY, Kempele, Finland) | [24] |
Eye gazing—eye tracking glasses (ETG) | Face | Cameras embedded within eye glass frame | Eye gaze patterns toward holds on climbing wall | Tobii Pro Glasses 2 (Tobii, Stockholm, Sweden) | [8] |
Skeletal muscle—electromyography (EMG) | Forearms | Skin surface EMG sensors attached to local muscle | Electrical activity of muscle | Tel-100 System (BioPac Systems Goleta, CA, USA) | [25] |
Skeletal muscle—near infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) | Forearms | Skin surface near-infrared light source and detector | Muscle oxygen saturation = oxy-hemoglobin/total hemoglobin | PortaMon (Artinis Medical Systems, BV, Zetten, The Netherlands) | [26] |
3.2. Respiration Sensors
3.3. Heart Activity Sensors
3.4. Eye Gazing Sensors
3.5. Skeletal Muscle Characterization Sensors
4. Integration of Multiple Sensors with Climbing Video for Location-Specific Analysis
5. Discussion
5.1. Body Movement Sensors
5.2. Respiration Sensors
5.3. Heart Activity Sensors
Climbing Skill/ Performance Metric | Sensor-Derived Parameter | Body Movement Sensor (Location) | Respiration Sensor | Heart Sensor | Eye Gazing Sensor | Skeletal Muscle Sensor | External Scene Camera | Hold-Embedded Force Sensor | Reference |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Recovery rate during rest/climb patterns | Spatial variations in heart rate, systemic oxygen uptake | ACC (hip) | BR, MV | HR | - | - | Yes | - | [14] |
Climbing fluidity | Jerk coefficient, immobility, geometric index of entropy | ACC (hip), IMU (hip, legs, forearms) | - | - | - | - | - | - | [5,12,36,37,38,39] |
Time spent at different climbing states | Resting/ascending ratio, body orientations | ACC (hip), IMU (hip) | - | - | - | - | Yes | - | [19,21,40] |
Load distribution along climbing path | Location of center of mass | - | - | - | - | - | Yes | Yes | [41] |
Perceived exertion | Breathing rate, breathing depth | - | BR, MV | - | - | - | - | - | [9,42] |
Climbing economy, aerobic energy demand | Systemic oxygen consumption | - | MV | - | - | - | - | - | [24] |
Cardiac modulation of nervous system | Heart rate variability | - | - | ECG | - | - | - | - | [57] |
Time spent at different gaze behavior states during climbing | Exploring ahead versus maintaining focus | - | - | - | Gaze behavior | - | - | - | [8] |
Route previewing strategy and skill | Identify visual strategies: ascending, fragmentary, zigzagging, sequence-of-blocks | - | - | - | Gaze behavior | - | - | - | [32] |
Forearm muscle endurance, fatigue | Local muscle oxygenation, muscle activation | - | - | - | - | NIRS, EMG (forearm) | - | - | [11,48,58,59] |
5.4. Eye Gazing Sensors
5.5. Skeletal Muscle Characterization Sensors
6. Future Applications
7. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Sensor Type | Example Product (Company), Cost | Practical Benefits | Practical Limitations |
---|---|---|---|
Body movement—accelerometer | Hexoskin (Carre Technologies, Montreal, QC, Canada), medium cost | Comfort, time-matched heart rate, respiration | Only linear movement since no gyroscope (rotational movement), need body-specific shirt size |
Body movement—IMU (accelerometer, gyroscope, magnetometer) | MotionPod (Movea, Grenoble, France), low cost | Body motion animations to visualize movements | Potential drift errors |
Body movement—insole pressure distribution | Pedar-X (Novel, Munich, Germany), medium cost | Practical method to measure forces applied to holds | Complexity of data analysis with continuous 2D spatial maps of applied forces |
Body movement—motion capture system (MCS) | Mac 3D System (Motion Analysis, Santa Rosa, CA, USA), high cost | Completely non-invasive since no sensors are worn, only external cameras used | Complexity of system setup with multiple synchronized external camera |
Body movement—force sensor embedded within climbing hold | K3D120 triaxial force sensor (ME-Meβsysteme, Hennigsdorf, Germany), medium cost | Completely non-invasive since no sensors are worn | Need to build a customized climbing wall. |
Respiration—airflow, O2, CO2 | METAMAX 2B (Cortex, Biophysik, GmbH, Leipzig, Germany), high cost | Direct measurement method to determine breathing metrics | Discomfort during vigorous activity, potential negative impact to performance with face mask |
Respiration—respiratory inductive plethysmography (RIP) | Hexoskin (Carre Technologies, Montreal, QC, Canada), medium cost | Comfort, collects complementary heart, accelerometer data | Indirect measurement method to determine breathing metrics |
Heart activity—electrocardiography (ECG) | Hexoskin (Carre Technologies, Montreal, QC, Canada), medium cost | Comfort, collects complementary respiration, accelerometer data | Uses a compression shirt, as compared to simpler chest band (e.g., Polar) |
Heart activity—electrocardiography (ECG) | Polar (Polar Electro OY, Kempele, Finland), low cost | Simple, comfortable design with single chest band | No complementary data such as time-matched respiration, movement data (e.g., Hexoskin) |
Eye gazing—eye tracking glasses (ETG) | Tobii Pro Glasses 2 (Tobii, Stockholm, Sweden), high cost | Unique ability to determine and practice route reading skills | Eye frames may slightly reduce field of view while exploring route during climbing |
Skeletal muscle electromyography (EMG) | Tel-100 System (BioPac Systems Goleta, CA, USA), low cost | Unique ability to determine local muscle electrical activity | Possible measurement uncertainty due to artifacts from activity of nearby muscles |
Skeletal muscle—near infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) | PortaMon (Artinis Medical Systems, BV, Zetten, The Netherlands), low cost | Unique ability to determine local muscle oxygen response, which complements whole-body oxygen response using respiration sensors | Possible measurement uncertainty due to variations in tissue arrangement between skin surface and muscle of interest |
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Breen, M.; Reed, T.; Nishitani, Y.; Jones, M.; Breen, H.M.; Breen, M.S. Wearable and Non-Invasive Sensors for Rock Climbing Applications: Science-Based Training and Performance Optimization. Sensors 2023, 23, 5080. https://doi.org/10.3390/s23115080
Breen M, Reed T, Nishitani Y, Jones M, Breen HM, Breen MS. Wearable and Non-Invasive Sensors for Rock Climbing Applications: Science-Based Training and Performance Optimization. Sensors. 2023; 23(11):5080. https://doi.org/10.3390/s23115080
Chicago/Turabian StyleBreen, Miyuki, Taylor Reed, Yoshiko Nishitani, Matthew Jones, Hannah M. Breen, and Michael S. Breen. 2023. "Wearable and Non-Invasive Sensors for Rock Climbing Applications: Science-Based Training and Performance Optimization" Sensors 23, no. 11: 5080. https://doi.org/10.3390/s23115080
APA StyleBreen, M., Reed, T., Nishitani, Y., Jones, M., Breen, H. M., & Breen, M. S. (2023). Wearable and Non-Invasive Sensors for Rock Climbing Applications: Science-Based Training and Performance Optimization. Sensors, 23(11), 5080. https://doi.org/10.3390/s23115080