Handmade Comal Tortillas in Michoacán: Traditional Practices along the Rural-Urban Gradient
Abstract
:1. Introduction
1.1. Food Security and Food Patterns
1.2. Diets and Traditions. The Cultural Value of the Traditional Mexican Diet
1.3. Maize Tortillas
2. Study Area and Methodological Approach
3. Results
3.1. Type of Seeds and Tortilla Production Systems
3.2. Transformation and Elaboration of Tortillas
(...) “it is for the last kneading pass before throwing the tortillas on the comal...”
- (1)
- To fix a badly cooked nixtamal. If the nixtamal is overcooked, the dough loses consistency and becomes rubbery and watery. This can be fixed by adding wheat flour, which gives elasticity to the dough, and nixtamalized corn flour as a binder product.
- (2)
- To fix a bad grind. If the stones of the mill have been recently cut, the dough can become quebrada or martajada, that is, with whole pieces of maize that have not been ground completely. In such a case, it is necessary to use a metate to finish the grinding. If, on the contrary, the stones of the mill are old and their marks have become blurred, the dough can turn out sticky, an effect similar to the one produced by overcooking the nixtamal.
- (3)
- To increase the volume of the dough and make more tortillas. Due to the perishable nature of nixtamalized dough, it is important to calculate the volume of tortillas that will be possible to sell, so that the dough does not get spoiled. Sometimes, the opposite happens, more tortillas are sold than expected, and nixtamalized corn flour is mixed with the dough to make more tortillas and make a larger profit.“What MASECA flour does is for the dough to yield more tortillas instantly if the prepared nixtamal is not enough”
- (4)
- To whiten the dough. The color of maize grains changes according to the variety. Tortilla establishments know that consumers have a greater preference for white tortillas, a fact that has been corroborated by other studies [61]. This drives tortilla makers to add wheat flour (totally white) to the dough and, in this way, whiten the tortillas made from it.
3.3. Commercialization and Consumption of Tortillas
“Here in Uricho, we go to bed with maize and get up with maize”
3.4. Perceptions about the Quality of HCT
4. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
Appendix A
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Characteristic | Rural | Peri-Urban | Urban | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
% HCTE | Nº of HCTE | % HCTE | Nº of HCTE | % HCTE | Nº of HCTE | ||
Origin | Local | 50 | 8 | 30 | 3 | 13.5 * | 2 |
Regional | 0 | 0 | 15 | 1.5 | 6.5 * | 1 | |
Sinaloa/Jalisco | 50 | 8 | 55 | 5.5 | 80 | 12 | |
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 | |
Variety | Native | 50 | 8 | 20 | 2 | 7 | 1 |
Hibrid | 50 | 8 | 80 | 8 | 93 | 14 | |
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 | |
Color | White | 90 | 14.5 * | 100 | 10 | 97 | 13.5 * |
Blue | 10 | 1.5 * | 0 | 0 | 3 | 1.5 * | |
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 | |
Production system | Organic | 6 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 7 | 1 |
Conventional | 94 | 15 | 100 | 10 | 93 | 14 | |
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 |
Urban Establishment (UE) | Purchase Price of Blue Corn (MNX/kg) | Sale Price of Blue Tortillas (MXN/kg) | Sales of Blue Tortillas (kg/week) | Blue Tortillas as Percentage of the Total Volume of Sales |
---|---|---|---|---|
UE No. 10 | 10 | 30 | 2.5 | 2 |
UE No. 11 | 13 | 40 | 25 | 0.35 |
UE No. 12 | 10 | 18 | 30 | 6 |
Characteristic | Rural | Peri-Urban | Urban | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
% HCTE | Nº of HCTE | % HCTE | Nº of HCTE | % HCTE | Nº of HCTE | |||
Nixtamal | Corn | 100 | 16 | 40 | 4 | 46.7 | 7 | |
Dough | 0 | 0 | 60 | 6 | 53.3 | 8 | ||
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 | ||
Technologies | Heat source | Firewood | 75 | 12 | 60 | 6 | 0 | 0 |
Gas | 25 | 4 | 40 | 4 | 100 | 15 | ||
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 | ||
Grinding | Metate | - | 7 * | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
External mill | 87.5 | 14 | 100 | 10 | 60 | 9 | ||
Own mill | 12.5 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 40 | 6 | ||
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 | ||
Pressing | Hand | 43 | 7 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
Press | 57 | 9 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 | ||
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 | ||
Use of flours | Yes | 50 | 8 | 20 | 2 | 13.3 | 2 | |
No | 50 | 8 | 80 | 8 | 86.7 | 13 | ||
Total | 100 | 16 | 100 | 10 | 100 | 15 |
Rural | Peri-Urban | Urban | |
---|---|---|---|
Sales volume (kg/week) | 71 | 107 | 260 (741) |
Efficiency Grain/Dough-Tortilla | G-T: 1.74 | G-T: 1.76 | G-T: 1.27 |
D-T: 0.73 | D-T: 0.77 | ||
Sales price (MXN/kg) | 18.5 | 16 | Blue: 29.3 |
White: 17.8 |
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Arnés, E.; Astier, M. Handmade Comal Tortillas in Michoacán: Traditional Practices along the Rural-Urban Gradient. Int. J. Environ. Res. Public Health 2019, 16, 3211. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph16173211
Arnés E, Astier M. Handmade Comal Tortillas in Michoacán: Traditional Practices along the Rural-Urban Gradient. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health. 2019; 16(17):3211. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph16173211
Chicago/Turabian StyleArnés, Esperanza, and Marta Astier. 2019. "Handmade Comal Tortillas in Michoacán: Traditional Practices along the Rural-Urban Gradient" International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 16, no. 17: 3211. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph16173211
APA StyleArnés, E., & Astier, M. (2019). Handmade Comal Tortillas in Michoacán: Traditional Practices along the Rural-Urban Gradient. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 16(17), 3211. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph16173211