1. Introduction
Being green brings both opportunities and challenges to textile and apparel firms. On the one hand, it helps firms to shape better public image and attract more consumers. On the other hand, being green involves an investment in clean technologies, adapting to environmentally-friendly manufacturing systems, etc. It remains a problem to determine if it pays to be green [
1,
2]. We analyze the impacts of the adoption of environmental management systems (EMS) on the firms’ financial and operational performance. We test the abnormal value of changes in sales, total assets, operating incomes, return on asset (ROA), return on sales (ROS), sales over asset (SOA), and inventory turnover during the period when firms start to formally implement EMS. Our results show that the adoption of EMS led to decreases in sales, SOA, inventory turnover, and increases in total asset.
We restrict ourselves to a sample of Chinese textile and apparel firms. As Chen and Burns [
3] state, the textile wet processing process causes adverse environmental impacts due to the use of dyes and other chemicals. China is an important player in the global textile and apparel value chain. According to the latest census data, over 13.18% of manufacturing firms in China produce textile and apparel-related products. The population of employees working in the industry exceeds 12.5 million [
4]. China was on the top of the ranking for exporters of textiles and clothing in 2015 [
5]. However, Chinese firms are usually at the end of the textile and apparel value chain. Ma et al. [
6] mention that although some apparel brands relocated their manufacturing facilities to other countries, the production processes which result in pollution remains in China. In the last decade, China has faced very serious environment problem. The Chinese people are becoming aware of the harmfulness of pollution in the air and water. Environment and sustainability are attracting more attention from the public. Many firms have been forced to transfer to environmentally-friendly management systems by their supply chain partner, or the environmental authorities.
Sustainability is becoming popular in operations management [
7,
8]. A few papers have analyzed the sustainable operations of firms in the textile and apparel industry. Shen [
9] studies the sustainable supply chain practice of H&M. Based on secondary data, he analyzes the relationship between supply chain decisions and the sustainability considerations of H&M. Motivated by the real practices in the fashion industry, Shen and Li [
10] analyze the supply chain from a sustainable perspective. Li and Shen [
11] study the sustainable design operations in the supply chain with an analytical model. Wiengarten et al. [
12] study environmental investments and their impacts on operational performance using empirical data collected from a wide range of industries. The author found that dynamic industries such as apparel made fewer investments on supply chain environment practices. They also report that the environmental investments do not significantly improve the operational performance of dynamic industry. Lo et al. [
13] investigate the impacts of the adoption of environment management systems on the financial performance of firms in the textile industry. They found a significant increase in ROA and ROS after the adoption of environment management systems. In our paper, we not only analyze financial ratios such as ROA, ROS, and SOA, but also study the firms’ operational performance (e.g., inventory turnover, etc.). For more literature on social sustainable textile and apparel supply chain management, we recommend Köksal et al. [
14] for reference.
Klassen and McLaughlin [
15] analyze environment management and firm financial performance using firm-level data. They found a significant positive return for firms with environmental awards, and a significant negative return for firms which encounter environmental crisis. Jacobs et al. [
16] investigate the environmental performance and the market value of firms. They found that the market does not react significantly to the aggregated categories of announcements about firms’ corporate environmental initiatives (CEIs) and environmental awards and certifications (EACs). However, some subcategories of announcements are significant. Arora et al. [
17] analyze the shareholder wealth effects of the appointments of corporate sustainable executives (CSEs). Based on their study of 106 announcements of CSE appointments, they found that the overall effect on the stock market is neutral. However, the stock market makes a significant positive response if the firm was faced with an adverse sustainability-related event in the year prior to the announcements, or if the appointed CSE has focused duties and responsibilities. Wu [
18] studies the relationship between socially sustainable operations and the stock market reactions of firms in the textile and apparel industry in China. They found a negative link between them, and argue that it reflects the investors’ worry about the cost related to the socially sustainable operations. Li and Wu [
19] extend [
18] and study the cross-industry stock market performance of socially sustainable operations of firms in China. All of these papers apply event study in their analysis. However, they focus on the stock market reaction. Our paper studies the long-term impact of the adoption of EMS on firms’ financial and operational performance, which is different from the literature.
In this paper, we study firms’ performance in profitability, sales, and operational efficiency after the adoption of EMS. We find that (i) textile and apparel firms in China experience a significant decrease in profitability and sales after EMS adoption; (ii) textile and apparel firms in China underwent a decrease in inventory productivity after EMS adoption. These results are different from previous research on EMS adoption for firms in the textile and apparel industry in the US, which report a positive return on assets and return on sales [
13]. However, our findings are consistent with Wu [
18] and Li and Wu [
19], which report negative relationship between firms’ socially sustainable operations and their stock market performance. We explain that the negative effects of EMS adoption on profitability and sales are the result of the costly investment in an environmentally-friendly manufacturing system and the losses in operational efficiency during the transition period.
The rest of the paper is organized as follows. The research hypotheses are developed in
Section 2. We introduce the sampling process and data in
Section 3. In
Section 4, we describe the methodology and procedures of event study, which is used in this paper.
Section 5 presents the results. We summarize our findings in
Section 6, and point out the directions for future research.
2. Hypotheses
The adoption of EMS brings both benefits and drawbacks to firm performance. In this work, we study the economic consequences of EMS adoption on firm’s performance in profitability, sales, and operational efficiency. To be consistent with previous research [
13,
20,
21], we select return on assets (ROA, the ratio of operating income to total assets) as the performance measure for profitability. ROA represents the firm’s ability to generate operating incomes with unit asset. Many Chinese textile and apparel firms act as manufacturers to serve their overseas clients. To fulfill the requirement of EMS, the firms have to raise investment to reshape their manufacturing processes and to improve their techniques, which leads to higher total assets. However, the firms’ operating incomes cannot be easily increased in the short-term. This will cause a decrease in profitability after EMS adoption. So, our first hypothesis is stated as below.
H1. Textile and apparel firms’ ROA decrease after EMS adoption.
We measure firms’ performance in sales with sales over assets (SOA), which equals sales divided by the total assets. SOA measures the firm’s sales generated from each unit of asset. Although better environmental performance helps a firm to shape a good public image as a socially responsible firm, it is not likely to increase the firm’s sales soon after EMS adoption. Since it increases the firm’s total assets, we expect the firm’s SOA will decrease after EMS adoption. Our second hypothesis is stated as below.
H2. Textile and apparel firms’ SOA decrease after EMS adoption.
To further explore the details of firm’s performance in sales after EMS adoption, we propose another hypothesis, which uses sales as the performance measure.
H2’. Textile and apparel firms’ sales decrease after EMS adoption.
Our last hypothesis is about the firm’s operational efficiency. First, we use return on sales (ROS), which is the ratio of operating incomes on sales, to measure the cost efficiency [
13]. ROS represents the operating incomes from unit sales. Note that sales can be broken down into operating incomes and operating expenses; a larger value of ROS indicates higher efficiency in cost management. EMS imposes constraints in the firm’s manufacturing and operations processes, which introduces cost. Thus, we expect a decrease in a firm’s ROS after EMS adoption.
H3. Textile and apparel firms’ ROS decrease after EMS adoption.
Previous research shows that inventory profitability—which measures the firm’s ability in effectively and efficiently managing inventory—is the key in producing shareholder wealth [
22]. We use inventory turnover (the ratio of net sales over average inventory) to measure the firm’s inventory productivity. It takes time for executives and employees to adapt to the newly adopted EMS, and thus inventory turnover will decrease after EMS adoption.
H3’. Textile and apparel firms’ inventory turnover decrease after EMS adoption.
4. Methodology
In this paper, we analyze the impacts of the adoption of EMS on the sample firms’ performance in profitability, sales, and operational efficiency using event study. Event study identifies the causal links between events and firm performance by testing the significance of the abnormal value of certain variables against zero. Jacobs et al. [
16] mention that event study has some advantages over other empirical research methods. We describe the procedures of event study used in this work below.
(1) Define events
We define the announcements of the formal adoption of EMS as events. We note that announcements of types of sustainable operations are often made on the same day. These announcements include the sample firms’ operations which protects the benefits and interests of their shareholder, their employees, their supply chain partners, the general public, etc. [
18]. However, there is no theoretical link between these operations and the sample firms’ financial and operational performance in the long-term. Another observation is that a sample firm may disclose more than one event about the adoption of EMS. We exclude all subsequent announcements and only include the first in our sample. Finally, 22 EMS adoption events are identified.
We normalize the event year, in which the event of EMS adoption is announced, as year 0. The years which are prior to year zero are defined as year –1, year –2, etc. The successive years after year 0 are labeled as year 1, year 2, etc. We follow Lo et al. [
13] to set a three-year event window, which includes year –2, year –1, and year 1. According to previous work [
23], on average it costs a firm 6–18 months to prepare for the ISO 14000 certification. So, we set year –2 as the base year. The percentage changes in firms’ sales, total assets, operating incomes, ROA, ROS, SOA, and inventory turnover are calculated for the event window.
(2) Generating the matched-pair control sample
To study the net effect of the adoption of an environmental management system, we need to control the firm-specified factors. We follow the literature [
13,
20,
24] and propose the following procedures to match the sample firm with control firms in year –2.
Step one. We identify all firms which are classified in the manufacturing industry according to their CSRC code.
Step two. Firms that have no sufficient financial and operational performance data are excluded.
Step three. All sample firms which made an announcement about the adoption of EMS are removed.
Step four. Firms are matched according to the following matching rules. If a control firm is matched to a sample firm, we remove the control firm from the candidate list.
The above steps guarantee that a control firm will not be matched to multiple sample firms. The matching rule considers the firm’s industry character, performance bounds, and the quality of data, and is described below.
Rule one. The control firm must have the same CSRC code as the sample firm. The CSRC code consists of an English letter and a two-digit number. Firms with the same CSRC code are classified in the same sub-industry.
Rule two. The release date of performance measures of the control firm in year –2, year –1, year 0, and year 1 must fall in the -month band as the sample firm.
Rule three. The performance measures of the control firm must fall in the band of the sample firm.
If more than one firm remains in the candidate list after the screening process, we pick the one whose performance measure is closest to the sample firm. If no control firm remains after screening using rule one, we skip it and directly move to rule two and rule three. If no control firm passes the screening of any rule, we remove the sample firm for this study. We report the matching results of the performance-industry matched group which passed the screening of rule one to rule three, and the performance-matched group which passed the screening of rule two and rule three.
(3) Estimate the abnormal value for performance measures
We define the abnormal performance with Equation (
1). The superscripts
S and
C stand for sample firm and control firm.
is the percentage changes of the performance index
P for the
i-th sample firm (if
, or matching firm if
) during the period from year -2 to year
t. For a matched group of sample–control firm pairs, we first calculate
and
separately for all
i and
. The abnormal value of a particular performance measure for a sample firm is defined as the difference in the percentage change between
and
. The abnormal performance
represents the net effect of EMS adoption for firm
i during the period from year −2 to year
t, compared to the firm which does not adopt the EMS.
(4) Testing statistics
If the sample mean or median of abnormal value deviates from zero significantly, we identify a causal link between the event and the firm’s performance. Thus, we can conclude that EMS adoption has a significant impact on the firm’s financial and/or operational performance. We use t-test to examine the statistical significance of sample mean of abnormal performance.
The Student’s t-test works well for normal populations or large samples. When dealing with small non-normal samples, the t-test is no longer appropriate. To guarantee the robustness of our results, we also report the results of the Wilcoxon signed-rank test and the generalized sign test.