Recent Shoreline Changes Due to High-Angle Wave Instability along the East Coast of Lingayen Gulf in the Philippines
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Method of Study
3. Morphological Characteristics of Lingayen Gulf
4. Formation of Shoreline Undulations Due to High-Angle Wave Instability
4.1. Balili River Delta
4.2. Aringay River Delta
4.3. Formation of a Sand Spit at Santo Tomas
5. Results of Numerical Calculations
5.1. Wave Field
5.2. Formation of a Sand Spit on a Coast with Abrupt Change in Shoreline Configuration
6. Longshore Sand Transport
6.1. Estimation of the Rate of Longshore Sand Transport
6.2. Interruption of Continuous Longshore Sand Transport at the Sand Spit Tip
7. Similarity of Lingayen Gulf and Suruga Bay in Japan
8. Concluding Remarks
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Conflicts of Interest
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Items | Wave Direction | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
W | NW | N | ALL | |
Energy mean wave height | 2.00 | 2.04 | 2.81 | 2.74 |
Wave height with a probability of occurrence less than 5% (m) | 4.26 | 4.42 | 5.71 | 5.41 |
Mean wave period (s) | 4.9 | 4.6 | 6.2 | 6.3 |
Most frequent wave period (s) | 4.5 | 4.5 | 5.5 | 6.5 |
Wave conditions. | Incident waves: HI = 4.6 m (4.6 cm), T = 12.7 s (1.27 s), wave direction θI = 20° relative to normal to initial shoreline |
Berm height | hR = 5 m (5 cm) |
Depth of closure | hc = 2.5 H (H: wave height) |
Equilibrium slope | tanβc = 1/5 |
Angle of repose slope | tanβg = 1/2 |
Coefficients of sand transport | Coefficient of longshore sand transport Ks = 0.045 Coefficient of Ozasa and Brampton [13] term K2 = 1.62 Ks Coefficient of cross-shore sand transport Kn = 0.1 Ks |
Mesh size | Δx = Δy = 20 m (20 cm) |
Time intervals | Δt = 10−3 h (10−4 h) |
Duration of calculation | 80 (8) h (8 × 104 steps) |
Boundary conditions | Shoreward and landward ends: qx = 0, right and left boundaries: qy = 0 |
Calculation of wave field | Calculation of wave field: energy balance equation [9] Term of wave dissipation due to wave breaking: Dally et al. [14] model Wave spectrum of incident waves: directional wave spectrum density obtained by Goda [15]. Total number of frequency components NF = 1 and number of directional subdivisions Nθ = 8. Directional spreading parameter Smax = 75. Coefficient of wave breaking K = 0.17 and Γ = 0.3. Imaginary depth between minimum depth h0 and berm height hR: h0 = 2 m (2 cm). Wave energy = 0 where Z ≥ hR. Lower limit of h in terms of wave decay due to breaking Φ: 0.7 m (0.7 cm) |
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Uda, T.; Noshi, Y. Recent Shoreline Changes Due to High-Angle Wave Instability along the East Coast of Lingayen Gulf in the Philippines. Geosciences 2021, 11, 144. https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences11030144
Uda T, Noshi Y. Recent Shoreline Changes Due to High-Angle Wave Instability along the East Coast of Lingayen Gulf in the Philippines. Geosciences. 2021; 11(3):144. https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences11030144
Chicago/Turabian StyleUda, Takaaki, and Yasuhito Noshi. 2021. "Recent Shoreline Changes Due to High-Angle Wave Instability along the East Coast of Lingayen Gulf in the Philippines" Geosciences 11, no. 3: 144. https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences11030144
APA StyleUda, T., & Noshi, Y. (2021). Recent Shoreline Changes Due to High-Angle Wave Instability along the East Coast of Lingayen Gulf in the Philippines. Geosciences, 11(3), 144. https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences11030144