“Purplish Blue” or “Greenish Grey”? Indigo Qualities and Extraction Yields from Six Species
Abstract
:1. Introduction
1.1. New Interest in an Ancient Dye
1.2. A Cornucopia of Species and Manufacturing Methods
1.3. True Blue? (Too) Many Methods for Determining Indigo Quality
1.4. Aims of the Study
1.5. Definitions of Terms
- (a)
- The plants used;
- (b)
- The extract as a traded product;
- (c)
- The valuable component for dyeing contained in the extract;
- (d)
- The blue colour.
2. Results
2.1. Comparison of Species
2.1.1. Species Cultivated in Austria
2.1.2. Species Cultivated in China
2.2. Influence of Extraction Methods (MME, sLPE and Modifications) on Indigo Quality and Yield
2.3. Indigo Quality of Local Practice Samples
2.4. Is Indigo Colour an Indicator of Indigo Quality?
2.4.1. Visual Colour Classification of the Indigo Samples
2.4.2. Measured Colour Parameters (L*a*b*)
2.4.3. Correlation between Indigo Colour (L*a*b* Values) and Indigotin Content
2.4.4. Can Indigotin Content Be Predicted by Measuring Indigo Colour?
3. Discussion
3.1. Indigotin Content and Indigo(tin) Extraction Yield
3.2. The Evaluation of Indigo-Yielding Species Requires a Differentiated Approach
3.3. Indigofera arrecta—A “Forgotten Species” with a Promising Future?
3.4. The Ambivalence of Using Standardised Methods, and Potential Improvements
Species | Indigotin Content [% in indigo] | Indigo Extraction Yield [g/kg plant material] | Indigotin Extraction Yield [g/kg plant material] | Parameters Tested and Extraction Method Applied | Analytical Method (in brackets: indigo processing state sampled/solvent used/nm measured) | Source |
Indigofera tinctoria | n.d. | n.d. | 0.58–0.75 (per fw ) | Test of agronomic factors (four ecotypes, three levels of deficit irrigation). Extraction method: boiling, cooling, adding Ca(OH)2 solution, aerating, settling, post-treatment with HCL, centrifuging suspension (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension, centrifuged/H2SO4/611 nm) | [64] |
n.d. | n.d. | 6.50–6.80 (per fw ) | Test of agronomic factors (four ecotypes, three planting days). Extraction method: boiling, cooling, adding Ca(OH)2 solution, aerating, settling, post-treatment with HCL, centrifuging suspension (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension, centrifuged/H2SO4/611 nm) | [65] | |
n.d. | 268.301 (paste per fw ⌘) | 3.27 1 (per fw ⌘) | Comparison of I. tinctoria and Strobilanthes cusia. Extraction method: ambient temperature, adding Ca(OH)2 solution, aerating, washing precipitated indigo with Ca(OH)2 solution, centrifuging (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo paste, centrifuged/H2SO4/611 nm) | [59] | |
1.69–2.65 (in indigo paste) | 11.90–18.60 (indigo dry per fw ⌘) | n.d. | Test of four extraction methods without lime (conventional at ambient temperature and boiling the indigo paste, microbial with effective microorganisms, hot water at 60 °C subsequently mixed with cold water to obtain 38 °C and chemical with concentrated ammonia solution and calcium chloride) and six soaking durations (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo paste, centrifuged/H2SO4/611 nm) | [77] | |
n.d. | 1.03–1.09 (indigo dry per fw ) | n.d. | Test of four different I. tinctoria provenances. Comparison of I. tinctoria and Marsdenia tinctoria. Extraction method (without lime): extracting at ambient temperature, aerating, filtering off with vacuum pump, washing indigo with water, drying (laboratory scale). | No chemical analysis | [58] | |
Indigofera suffruticosa | 17.31–43.40 (in dry indigo) | 20.00–34.00 (indigo dry per dw ) | ? 2–11.20 (per dw ) | Test of agronomic factors (documentation of growing cycle, effects of age at harvest time). Extraction method (without lime): extracting at 25 °C, aerating, cooling and settling, decanting, centrifuging suspension, drying, grinding (laboratory scale). | HPTLC-densitometry (indigo powder/3:2 mixture of toluene and ethyl acetate; N, N-dimethylformamide/610 nm) | [80] |
Isatis tinctoria (incl. I. indigotica) | n.d. | n.d. | 0.30–0.80 (per fw ) | Test of agronomic factors (sowing date, plant density, N fertilisation, seedling transplantation, irrigation rate). Extraction method: boiling, cooling, adding Ca(OH)2 solution, aerating, settling, post-treatment with HCl (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension/ethyl acetate/600 nm) | [81] |
0.00–0.01 | n.d. | n.d. | Test of agronomic factors (N fertilisation, harvest time). Extraction method (without lime): hot extraction, pH control (NaOH), aerating, settling, washing indigo precipitant with water, filtering, drying, grinding (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo powder/glacial acetic acid/664 nm) | [82] | |
n.d. (lab) 5.70–12.90 (pilot) 4.80–10.00 (prototype) (in dry indigo) | n.d. (lab) 0.90–3.90 (pilot) 0.60–2.60 (prototype) (indigo dry per fw ) | 1.30–2.00 (lab) (per fw ) 0.11–0.22 (pilot) 0.05–0.26 (prototype) (per fw ) | Development of extraction protocols (laboratory scale) and upscaling (pilot and prototype). Test of extraction methods: leaf-to-water ratio, extraction temperature (hot and ambient; cooling), extraction duration, pH control (lime), aeration duration, post-treatment of indigo precipitate with acid, etc. | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension/ethyl acetate/600 nm) and microgravimetric method (indigo powder) | [55] | |
n.d. 20–40 (pilot) 3 | n.d. n.d. | 0.02–2.10 (lab) n.d. (per fw ) | Development of extraction methods (laboratory scale) and test at pilot scale: test of different extraction temperatures, pH adjustment (HCl, sulphuric acid; ammonia solution), cooling, aerating (only at pilot scale: settling, filtering, drying). | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension/ethyl acetate/600 nm) | [78] | |
n.d. | n.d. | 0.74–6.52 (per fw ) | Comparison of I. tinctoria and 14 other Isatis taxa. Extraction method: boiling, cooling, pH-adjustment 4, aerating, post-treatment with HCl (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension/ethyl acetate/600 nm) | [35] | |
n.d. | n.d. | 0.74–4.19 (per fw ) | Comparison of I. tinctoria and three other Isatis sp. at different harvest times. Extraction method (without lime): boiling, cooling, pH adjustment (NaOH), aerating, settling, post-treatment with HCl (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension/ethyl acetate/600 nm) | [34] | |
Several other Isatis sp. | n.d. | n.d. | 0.01–10.00 (per fw ) | Comparison of 14 Isatis taxa and I. tinctoria. Extraction method: boiling, cooling, pH-adjustment 4, aerating, post-treatment with HCl (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension/ethyl acetate/600 nm) | [35] |
n.d. | n.d. | not detected–2.53 (per fw ) | Comparison of three Isatis sp. And I. tinctoria at different harvest times. Extraction method (without lime): boiling, cooling, pH adjustment (NaOH), aerating, settling, post-treatment with HCl (laboratory scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension/ethyl acetate/600 nm) | [34] | |
Marsdenia tinctoria | n.d. | 0.12–0.25 (indigo dry per fw ) | n.d. | Comparison of M. tinctoria and Indigofera tinctoria. Test of extraction methods (without lime): different temperatures (ambient, hot) and steeping durations; aerating, filtering off with vacuum pump, washing indigo with water, drying (laboratory scale). | No chemical analysis | [58] |
Persicaria tinctoria | <2.00–9.20 (in dry indigo) | 1.00–13.00 (indigo dry per fw ⌘) | ?5–0.40 (per fw ⌘) | Test of different storage conditions of harvested plant material. Extraction method (without lime): plant material was extracted twice (hot), storing extracts for 4–5 days with aerating once a day, adding CaCl2·2H2O to improve precipitation, filtering sediment, drying, grinding. Two analytical methods applied. | Spectrophotometry (indigo powder, measuring leuco-indigotin/reducing agent: aqueous alkaline solution of Fe(II)triethanolamine/410 nm) | [54] |
0.00–12.30 (in dry indigo) | <0.01–0.69 (per fw ⌘) | Standard exhaust dyeing experiments and spectrophotometry (indigo-dyed textile) | ||||
n.d. (lab) 17.40–24.30 (pilot) 5.28–10.44 (prototype) (in dry indigo) | n.d. (lab) 3.20–7.80 (pilot) 1.80–10.00 (prototype) (indigo dry per fw ⌘) | 7.00–10.00 (lab) (per fw ) 0.70–1.36 (pilot) 0.18–0.89 (prototype) (per fw ⌘) | Development of extraction protocols (laboratory scale) and upscaling (pilot and prototype). Test of extraction methods: leaf-to-water ratio, extraction temperature (hot and ambient; cooling), extraction duration, pH control (lime), aeration duration, post-treatment of indigo precipitate with acid, etc. | Spectrophotometry (indigo suspension/ethyl acetate/600 nm) and microgravimetric method (indigo powder) | [55] | |
Strobilanthes cusia | 28.70–43.50 (lab) 45.20 (56.70 6) (pilot) (in dry indigo) | n.d. (lab) n.d. (pilot) | 4.00–4.50 (lab) n.d. (pilot) (per fw ) | Development of extraction method at laboratory and pilot scales. Test of effect of dissolved oxygen concentration on indigotin and indirubin formation; evaluation of indigotin and indirubin production under anaerobic conditions in nitrogen gas environment compared with conditions with and without aeration; ambient temperature, pH adjustment with NaOH. | HPLC equipped with UV detector (indigo powder/dimethyl sulfoxide, A: water-acetic acid, B: acetonitrile/280 nm) | [50] |
n.d. | n.d. | 0.85 (1.16 7) (per fw ⌘) | Development of two-step extraction process (laboratory scale): separate extraction of leaves (conventional extraction, pH adjustment) and stems (microwave drying, ethanol extraction, use of exogenous enzymes, pH adjustment). | HPLC equipped with UV detector (centrifuged indigo/A: water–acetic acid, B: acetonitrile/280 nm) | [49] | |
n.d. | 98.60–156.90 (paste per fw ⌘) | 0.08–4.72 (per fw ⌘) | Comparison of Strobilanthes cusia and I. tinctoria. Only with Strobilanthes cusia: test of extraction methods: different plant material conditions (fresh, semi-dried, dried), different soaking durations; extraction at ambient temperature, adding Ca(OH)2 solution, aerating, washing precipitated indigo with Ca(OH)2 solution (lab scale). | Spectrophotometry (indigo paste, centrifuged/H2SO4/611 nm) | [59] |
3.5. Colour Measurement as a Possible New Method to Determine Indigo Quality
4. Materials and Methods
4.1. Indigo Samples from Standardised Extraction
4.1.1. Plant Material for Extractions during Field Research in China
4.1.2. Plant Material of Species Cultivated in Vienna
4.1.3. Standardised Indigo Extraction Methods
MME (Mobile Mini Extraction)
sLPE (Simulated Local Practice Extraction)
4.2. Indigo Samples from Local Practices in China, Indonesia and India
4.3. Indigo Sample Preparation
4.4. Determination of Indigotin Content, Indigo Yield and Indigotin Yield
4.4.1. Spectrophotometric Analysis of Indigotin Content
4.4.2. Calculations
4.5. Determination of Indigo Sample Colour
4.5.1. Visual Classification of Colours
4.5.2. L*a*b* Colour Measurement
4.6. Statistical Data Analysis
5. Conclusions
Supplementary Materials
Author Contributions
Funding
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
Appendix A
Terms/Context to Describe the Plant Extract | Terms/Context to Describe the Valuable Component for Dyeing |
---|---|
“crude dyestuff” [54] “crude indigo dye” [55] “crude indigo” [49,50,59,79] “indigo product” [32,78] “indigo paste” [77] “indigo powder” [79] “commercial indigo” [50] “indigo dye” [58,59,64] “indigo colour”, “indigo blue” [58] “dye”, “dye recovery” [77] “blue dye powder”, “blue colorant powder” [80] “woad powder” [82] “indigo” [25,30,51,63] | “indigo content” [49,54,55,64,65] “indigo percentage” [65] “indigo purity” [32,50] “pure indigo” [49,55,79] “indigo” [30,32,50,59,64,65,66,77,78,79,80,81] “colorant purity”, “dye purity” [80] “indigo dye concentration” [82] “indigotin” mentioned as a synonym for “indigo” [66,77,79,81] “indigotin” [25,51,63] |
Species | Seed Source | Country of Origin, Collection Year | Accession Number/ Name of Provenance |
---|---|---|---|
Indigofera tinctoria | Millennium Seed Bank, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, UK | Burkina Faso, 1998 | 125549 |
Millennium Seed Bank, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, UK | Maldives, 1986 | 68068 | |
Indigofera suffruticosa | Millennium Seed Bank, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, UK | Brazil, 1983 | 47896 |
Millennium Seed Bank, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, UK | Ecuador, 1980 | 17479 | |
Millennium Seed Bank, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, UK | Venezuela, 1994 | 103897 | |
Indigofera arrecta | Bonn University Botanic Gardens, Bonn, Germany | unknown | xx-0-BONN-19246 |
Millennium Seed Bank, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, UK | Burkina Faso, 2007 | 444266 | |
Millennium Seed Bank, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, UK | Mali, 2014 | 820888 | |
Persicaria tinctoria | Bailiwick Blue, Guernsey, UK | unknown | “Maruba” |
Bailiwick Blue, Guernsey, UK | unknown | “Senbon” | |
Bailiwick Blue, Guernsey, UK | unknown | “Kojyoko” |
Persicaria tinctoria | Indigofera tinctoria | Indigofera suffruticosa | Indigofera arrecta | |
---|---|---|---|---|
Cultivation in the greenhouse: | ||||
Seed treatment | None | All Indigofera sp.: scarification to break seed dormancy | ||
Sowing in seedling trays | 30/04 | 06/05 | 06/05 | 06/05 |
Seeds per pot | 3 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Potting | 21/05 and 31/05 | 07/06 | 07/06 | 07/06 |
Pruning | None | All Indigofera sp.: pruning of main shoot to enhance ramification and increase biomass yield, because only a few seeds were available per provenance | ||
Watering | All species: as required | |||
Treatment against Sciaridae | All species: yellow sticky traps and beneficial nematodes | |||
Cultivation in the field: | ||||
Transplanting | 17/06 | 28/06 | 28/06 | 22 + 28/06 |
Spacing | 30 cm × 28 cm | 30 cm × 20 cm | 30 cm × 20 cm | 30 cm × 20 cm |
Application of horn shavings | All species: 17/07, ca. 25 kg/63 m2 | |||
Weeding | All species: 22/06, 05/07, 12/07, 20/07, 12/08 | |||
Watering | All species: as required | |||
Harvested plant material | Stems with leaves * | Stems with leaves * + flowers/green pods | Stems with leaves * + flowers | Stems with leaves * + inflorescences/flowers/green pods |
Country | Species | Colour Coordinates | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
L* | a* | b* | |||||
Austria | Indigofera arrecta | 11.37 | bc | 3.39 | d | −9.76 | gh |
Indigofera suffruticosa | 18.69 | a | −0.94 | f | −7.49 | g | |
Indigofera tinctoria | 13.06 | b | 1.57 | e | −8.91 | gh | |
Persicaria tinctoria | 9.76 | c | 2.75 | d | −10.25 | h | |
China | Indigofera suffruticosa | 14.09 | s | 0.71 | w | 5.89 | x |
Indigofera tinctoria | 12.75 | st | 0.49 | w | −7.17 | xy | |
Strobilanthes cusia | 9.28 | tu | 2.77 | v | −12.06 | z | |
Wrightia laevis (tree 1) 1 | 8.49 | u | 2.07 | v | −12.96 | z | |
Wrightia laevis (tree 2) 2 | 11.9 | stu | 0.06 | w | −10.83 | yz |
Species | Provenance | Colour Coordinates | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
L* | a* | b* | |||||
Indigofera arrecta | Burkina Faso 1 | 11.27 | a | 3.57 | b | −10.89 | d |
Mali | 10.72 | a | 3.36 | b | −9.66 | cd | |
unknown | 12.12 | a | 3.23 | b | −8.72 | c | |
Indigofera suffruticosa | Brazil | 21.39 | e | −1.22 | f | −4.89 | g |
Ecuador | 17.93 | e | −0.56 | f | −7.99 | g | |
Venezuela 1 | 16.76 | e | −1.06 | f | −9.58 | g | |
Indigofera tinctoria | Burkina Faso 2 1 | 13.56 | h | 1.15 | j | −8.00 | k |
Maldives | 12.56 | h | 2.00 | i | −9.82 | k | |
Persicaria tinctoria | “Kojyoko” | 9.20 | m | 2.80 | n | −10.26 | o |
“Maruba” | 9.00 | m | 3.17 | n | −9.97 | o | |
“Senbon” | 11.07 | l | 2.29 | n | −10.52 | o |
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Species | Parameter | Extraction Methods | Statistical Significance | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
MME | sLPE | ||||
Persicaria tinctoria (“Senbon”, “Maruba” and “Kojyoko”) | Indigotin in indigo (%) | 43.84 | 4.50 | *** | |
Indigo extraction yield (g/kg fresh weight) | 1.34 | 15.33 | *** | ||
Indigotin extraction yield (g/kg fresh weight) | 0.61 | 0.69 | * | ||
CIELAB colour coordinates: | L* | 9.76 | 32.71 | *** | |
a* | 2.75 | −4.14 | *** | ||
b* | −10.25 | −11.97 | *** | ||
Indigofera arrecta (Burkina Faso and unknown provenance) | Indigotin in indigo (%) | 53.48 | 6.23 | *** | |
Indigo extraction yield (g/kg fresh weight) | 1.38 | 18.54 | *** | ||
Indigotin extraction yield (g/kg fresh weight) | 0.75 | 1.17 | n.s. | ||
CIELAB colour coordinates: | L* | 11.69 | 32.78 | *** | |
a* | 3.40 | −6.27 | *** | ||
b* | −9.81 | 1.23 | * | ||
Indigofera arrecta (unknown provenance) | MME | mod.MME | |||
Indigotin in indigo (%) | 58.13 | 58.03 | n.s. | ||
Indigo extraction yield (g/kg fresh weight) | 1.44 | 2.17 | *** | ||
Indigotin extraction yield (g/kg fresh weight) | 0.84 | 1.25 | *** | ||
CIELAB colour coordinates: | L* | 12.12 | 10.15 | *** | |
a* | 3.23 | 2.44 | *** | ||
b* | −8.72 | −8.52 | n.s. | ||
sLPE | mod.sLPE | ||||
Indigotin in indigo (%) | 8.26 | 6.37 | *** | ||
Indigo extraction yield (g/kg fresh weight) | 19.28 | 22.59 | *** | ||
Indigotin extraction yield (g/kg fresh weight) | 1.59 | 1.44 | n.s. | ||
CIELAB colour coordinates: | L* | 25.13 | 26.24 | ** | |
a* | −5.94 | −3.80 | *** | ||
b* | −3.87 | −9.42 | ** |
Estimate | Std. Error | t Value | Pr(>|t|) | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
(Intercept) | 50.8313 | 13.0766 | 3.887 | 0.00026 | *** |
L* | −2.1510 | 0.7518 | −2.861 | 0.00580 | ** |
a* | 9.7976 | 2.3863 | 4.106 | 0.00012 | *** |
b* | 0.4692 | 1.1977 | 0.392 | 0.69661 | |
L*:a* | −0.4253 | 0.1164 | −3.654 | 0.00054 | *** |
L*:b* | −0.0398 | 0.0691 | −0.577 | 0.56576 | |
a*:b* | −0.2023 | 0.2308 | −0.877 | 0.38418 | |
L*:a*:b* | 0.0044 | 0.0114 | 0.391 | 0.69728 |
Species, Provenances (of Seeds 1, Harvested Plant Material or Indigo Samples) and Code for Extraction Methods (Number of Samples in Brackets) | ||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Indigofera tinctoria | Indigofera suffruticosa | Indigofera arrecta | Persicaria tinctoria | Strobilanthes cusia | Wrightia laevis | |
Standardised extraction in Austria (own cultivation in Vienna) | Burkina Faso: MME (3) 2 Maldives: MME (3) | Venezuela: MME (3) 2 Ecuador: MME (3) Brazil: MME (3) | Mali: MME (3) Burkina Faso: MME (3) + sLPE (3) unknown provenance: MME (3) + mod.MME (3) 2 sLPE (3) + mod.sLPE (3) 2 | “Senbon”: MME (3) + sLPE (3) “Kojyoko”: MME (3) + sLPE (3) “Maruba”: MME (3) + sLPE (3) | - | - |
Standardised extraction in China (local practice cultivation in three villages in Hainan) | Yu Long: MME (3) | Yu Dao: MME (3) | - | - | Xin Cun: MME (3) | Xin Cun: Tree 1: MME (3) 3 Tree 2: MME (3) 4 |
Total samples | 9 | 12 | 21 | 18 | 3 | 6 |
Local practice extraction in China (three villages in Hainan) | Yu Dao: extraction with lime, LPE (1) Yu Long: extraction with lime, LPE (1) + ADD (4) | - | - | - | Xin Cun: extraction with lime, LPE (1) + ADD (2) | Xin Cun: extraction with lime, LPE (1) |
Local practice extraction in India (six villages in Uttarakhand) | Simalta: 1st extraction without lime + 2nd extraction with lime, ADD (2) Digoli: 1st extraction without lime + 2nd extraction with lime, ADD (2) Thanga: 1st extraction without lime + 2nd extraction with lime, ADD (2) Chankana: 1st extraction without lime + 2nd extraction with lime, ADD (2) | - | - | - | Simalta: extraction without lime, ADD (1) Tripuradevi: extraction without lime, ADD (1) Dharamghar: 1st extraction without lime + 2nd extraction with lime, ADD (2) | - |
Local practice extraction in Indonesia (two locations in Java and Bali) | - | - | - | - | Temangung/Java: extraction with lime, ADD (1) Ubud/Bali: extraction without lime, ADD (2) | - |
Total samples | 14 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 10 | 1 |
TOTAL SAMPLES (standardised + local practice) | 23 | 15 | 21 | 18 | 13 | 7 |
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Hartl, A.; Polleichtner, A.; Novak, J. “Purplish Blue” or “Greenish Grey”? Indigo Qualities and Extraction Yields from Six Species. Plants 2024, 13, 918. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants13070918
Hartl A, Polleichtner A, Novak J. “Purplish Blue” or “Greenish Grey”? Indigo Qualities and Extraction Yields from Six Species. Plants. 2024; 13(7):918. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants13070918
Chicago/Turabian StyleHartl, Anna, Andrea Polleichtner, and Johannes Novak. 2024. "“Purplish Blue” or “Greenish Grey”? Indigo Qualities and Extraction Yields from Six Species" Plants 13, no. 7: 918. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants13070918
APA StyleHartl, A., Polleichtner, A., & Novak, J. (2024). “Purplish Blue” or “Greenish Grey”? Indigo Qualities and Extraction Yields from Six Species. Plants, 13(7), 918. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants13070918