This section presents the history of Mapuche tourism to offer historical context on the effects of the pandemic for Mapuche communities dedicated to tourism within Lavkenche territory, along with showing how tourism entrepreneurs and artisans recovered after the COVID-19 pandemic.
3.1. History of Mapuche Tourism
Based on the analysis carried out with the data gathered, we can identify different moments which we could call a history of Lavkenche Mapuche tourism. Until the 2000s, there was no conceptualization of Mapuche cultural practices as a cultural or indigenous tourist attraction. In this context, where there was tourism, but nothing interested in cultural aspects; Mapuche people were employed to work in Chileans’ businesses in cooking and cleaning tasks, among others. Simultaneously, Mapuche communities remained at the margins of the tourism industry, facing high poverty rates along with problems in reproducing their ways of life handed down from generation to generation.
In Mapuche ontology, spirituality is a fundamental underlying dimension directly related with the presence and actions of ancestral authorities, who are tied with a lineage via the pülli which travels through the pewma or remains connected with generations over time due to blood ties [
18]. One member of the Ñocha Malén group described part of their life story connected with ñocha grass basket weaving, saying that “I did this work as a girl because my grandmother, my great-great-grandmother started to do the work, my grandmother and then my mom, and then us. It’s a chain and I raised my family with this”. Another member explained that “back then moms lived with that, it was for survival then”. The representative from the Art and Trade School mentioned generational transmission within the family, indicating: “I have my knowledge from my ancestors, from the older generation, my great-grandmother, my grandmother, my mother, my aunts. I was born amidst artisans”. For her part, SM stressed that “I started working in aromatherapy with the knowledge my grandmother passed on to me about the benefits of some plants, flowers, or herbs”. In all these processes, we can observe the presence of patterns in Mapuche education and the formation of the che or person, wherein training is not merely a practical question, but is above all the transmission of a spirit united with knowledge and human beings. In this case, while tourism was not an activity which involved Mapuche people in their identitarian condition and they had been at the margin of tourism as a people, within their communities, they continued reproducing the ontology which granted meaning to the activity or kuzaw—their work as artisans or entrepreneurs—which, according to the interviewees, is now available to face cultural tourism.
According to one person from the Ñocha Malen group, “At first tourism was bad around here, the word tourism didn’t exist”. They added, “Tourism meant the lakes, people coming from outside for the summer, and you could go to the lake and show your work too. For us it was private, we weren’t well received, because we even took our work there and nobody would look at us or our work, they weren’t really valued”. AM also explained that during the 1990s, Mapuche culture “was losing its clothing, its culture, its way of speaking, because there wasn’t any consciousness and people were open to things from outside”.
By early 2001, there were records of tourism projects carried out by the Mapuche communities around Lake Lleu Lleu, offering sustainable tourism where people could see nature, broad landscapes, and culture [
19]. Similarly, the Elicura Valley progressively turned into a tourist attraction, with lodgings in traditional ruka and the opportunity to enjoy Mapuche food, and to learn about their culture and traditions [
20]. Since the late 2000s, experiential tourism has expanded based upon tourism product designs centered on Lavkenche Mapuche traditions, culture, and identity and the Lleu Lleu territory [
21]. An interviewee from the Nahuelbuta Mapuche Production Corporation explained that since 2005, there was more discussion of Mapuche tourism, and that as a corporation, they had grown stronger in the subject since 2010. Their goal was to differentiate themselves from indigenous tourism via territorial labels, understanding that at the Latin American level, each community has its own folklore and territory.
In 2006, Mapuche families worked on a community agrotourism project whose core consisted of a group dedicated to innovation in “traditional tourism”, which was able to ensure that Lake Lleu Lleu was administered by “authentic Mapuches” [
22]. Within the larger Latin American scene, there was an upswing in responsible, alternative, and sustainable tourism, including ecotourism, community tourism, and agrotourism [
4]. At this time, Chile and the wider world saw more promotion of tourism with identity, where indigenous communities could show their knowledge via this economic activity [
3]. By 2009, the idea of Lavkenche Mapuche tourism started to be publicly promoted based upon a series of State-driven policies which sought to promote the development of autonomous entrepreneurs. This concept has not been static, since it is signified by different subjects as entrepreneurs in tourism from different territorial zones. In this way, we can also talk about Lavkenche tourism to refer to the initiatives carried out around Lake Budi and the Arauco Province coast [
23].
Before the pandemic, the tourist season ran for four months, beginning in November, where domestic and foreign tourist families came to use camping zones and see farming and rural activities, including potato harvesting, bird and pig raising, and orchard care, among others. Mapuche families also sought to create an inn which would offer lodging and typical local foods, along with installing an administration office along the Lake Lleu Lleu shoreline [
22]. From this time, ethnic and historical tourism grew stronger, with an increasing emphasis on emphasizing the value of natural attractions in Arauco Province. Between 2007 and 2011, Lanalhue, Lleu Lleu, and the Elicura Valley were declared Tourism Interest Zones, which helped protect these sectors from forestry and mining interests [
3,
24]. The Elicura Valley, in particular, was transformed into a key sector for Mapuche tourism, leading to the creation of new circuits for showing visitors different aspects of culture, language, history, and artworks [
25].
Within this context, Volilchemapu was created in Cañete in 2011 as the first differentiated intercultural experience tour operator. It offered various tourism circuits, primarily within the zones of Contulmo, Tirúa, and Cañete, and was the first tourism operator in Arauco Province to respond to the need for organization within the incipient tourism activities among Mapuche communities, families, and individuals. This tour operator offered mountain treks, birdwatching, native forest exploration, meetings with local communities, horseback rides, and trips to lakes and lagoons [
26,
27]. These activities were designed and offered as an invitation for tourists to learn about the Mapuche way of life, which meant that, in some cases, they included lodgings in ruka and fireside conversations with native people. The consolidation of this type of Mapuche tourism has led to a double impact, since it has drawn in tourists, particularly foreigners, and led to the recovery and re-valorization of native practices and customs. In these cases, Mapuche entrepreneurial efforts make tourists become participants in local customs and culture [
23].
In 2012, a public tourism development plan was begun at the provincial level seeking to respond to the needs of a new tourist profile, with different consumption habits and greater interaction with local communities. In this way, Mapuche tourism gained a space to move forward on the path of sharing ancestral stories and life experiences, making tourists take part in their culture, gastronomy, and worldview [
28].
The year 2015 saw the establishment of the project “Diffusion of Arauco Province cultural tourism” to disseminate Mapuche tourism and improve tourist infrastructure and equipment around Lake Lleu Lleu [
29]. Similarly, within the framework of the Laggard Zone Plan (a public investment program for territories with critical poverty and vulnerability index scores) the “Strategic Regional Plan for Historical and Cultural Tourism in Arauco Province” was established in order for Arauco to be recognized as a tourist destination due to its cultural heritage, as well as to propitiate its associativity and social capital by incentivizing tourism projects which generated positive externalities within the territory. These goals were pursued via strengthening publicity channels, strengthening the value of knowledge and traditions, and aspiring to create benefits for 4000 people within the municipalities of Cañete, Contulmo, and Tirúa [
30].
In 2017, the National Tourism Service (Sernatur) for the Biobío region and the Laggard Zone program for Arauco province worked on actions to develop and strengthen tourism within the zone, emphasizing Mapuche tourism entrepreneurs. The program “Diffusion and strengthening of the cultural tourism offer within Arauco Province” integrated a series of actions which sought to strengthen cultural tourism within the province [
31]. In parallel, during this same period, the “Tourism and biodiversity conservation” project was executed within the territory, which aimed to increase the visibility and articulation of local actors dedicated to tourism centered upon the protection of biocultural heritage within the territories of Nahuelbuta and Mocha Island. Focusing on knowledge dialogues, this project aimed to promote inhabitants becoming key agents for tourist activities which promote and value their cultural heritage and the conservation of biodiversity.
Subsequently, in 2019, eight Mapuche tourism enterprises from the Biobío and Araucanía regions sought a mutual association in a new company called “Rupu Mapuche” in order to boost international tourist arrivals to the territory, along with raising the profile of similar experiences in municipalities including Cañete, Tirúa, Contulmo, and part of Araucanía to take a leading role in the tourism area. This new company sold tourism packages focused on native culture with routes between the zones of Piedra del Águila and Lake Budi. This project was focused on gastronomy, artworks, stories, and sharing locals’ experiences [
21]. In general, it was indicated that the Mapuche worldview and having the “purest lake in Latin America”, Lake Lleu Lleu, would become a “unique attraction” where respect for the ñuke mapu would be valued with regard to sustainability in understanding with local entrepreneurial initiatives to generate collective economic benefits for the entire Lavkenche territory [
21]. EA, an artisan from Ñocha Malen, mentioned that she focused on tourism, since she received many tourists in her ruka who were en route to the lake and the sea.
During this stage, important transformations were also expressed in forestry companies’ interventions within Mapuche communities’ territories. For instance, the Ñocha Malen group has a working alliance with the large Forestal Mininco company, belonging to the CMPC holding company (Compañía Manufacturera de Papeles y Cartones). In their articulated work, they have begun to innovate in their techniques with ñocha grass, using plastic to produce their products, leading to the creation of “decorative and utilitarian objects which are refined and simple, modern, with touches of color, beautifully woven, with marvelous design and manufacturing”. This type of project or initiative proposes to raise consciousness about the problems of plastic waste and incorporate the basket-weaving tradition into an attractive and modern product that respects artisans’ creativity, leaving them free to place their symbolism within each piece [
32].
In this scenario of economic and cultural globalization, and the expansion of sustainable development ideas, multiple actors come into play, with political disputes and power struggles arising over the forms of appropriation and the conversion of local goods into potential tourist merchandise [
17]. According to FM, a member of the Nahuelbuta Mapuche Production Corporation, before the pandemic, tourism was “really booming”, for instance, at Lake Lleu Lleu. However, while Sebastian Piñera was president, there were increased tensions between the State and some sectors of the Mapuche people who more strongly defended autonomy and territorial recuperation, who also lived within Arauco province. The height of this period of strong tensions was the death of Camilo Catrillanca, which led to a broad response from communities, some with protests and social movements and others with more radical actions: “That also meant that before the pandemic, tourism fell off here in the province, because there started to be recurring arson attacks and people started to be afraid and stop coming into the territory”. Mapuche tourism was thus under strong tension due to the conflict. On one side, there was a growing unease amongst tourists regarding visiting the territory. On the other side, there was also an internal debate in the Mapuche world about the role, convenience, and risks of tourism in the process of reaffirming and revindicating territorial claims, where various groups asserting political and economic autonomy strongly questioned some tourism actors due to how the latter worked closely with the government and forestry companies.
3.2. Health Crisis and Increased Associativity Amongst Entrepreneurs
With the arrival of COVID-19, visiting sites were closed down, there were no tourists, and border closures prevented foreign visitors from entering the country [
33]. The propagation of the virus created a new scenario for interpersonal relations. Communities faced a vulnerable situation and were practically invisible during the pandemic, leading them to also be affected due to their historical conditions [
14].
During the pandemic, tourist operators including Volilchemapu could not continue functioning. This happened not only due to the health contingency, but also because of situations arising from tensions in relations between local communities on one side and the State and private sector on the other side, as reported by the Cañete Chamber of Commerce, Tourism, and Gastronomy. In turn, FM mentioned that during the pandemic, “we were bad off. All the small businesses tanked, everything closed, tourism was the first thing affected nationwide because all the services closed”. He also mentioned that the State had no alternative plan regarding this topic, leading him to express: “we were left at the margins, and the Mapuche–State conflict got worse”. In particular, for EA, sales were affected by the pandemic and the conflict: “nobody was going around, in this region they were ‘making shortcuts’, ‘cutting wood’, and Mapuche people are always the ones affected”. PC said that when the pandemic came, “there were restrictions on going to the next town to sell or show our artworks”. However, he was unaffected by the pandemic since he learned how to sell online: “I uploaded videos of my work every day, I got commissions from Instagram and other social media. It opened up a broader field, and now I started a company to make it formal and supply myself better”.
SM indicated that during the pandemic, there was a considerable drop in families’ summer incomes (November to March). Some businesses could no longer function, particularly for women who worked in markets and fairs: “There was a total shutdown in the pandemic, zero contact, so there was no option for you to offer your products”. She added: “many people who worked in traditional Mapuche trades, particularly older people, had very little knowledge of social media or doing their work with a phone, Facebook or Instagram, so sales were hard for them”. One member of the Ñocha Malen group said: “the pandemic affected us more because arts and crafts weren’t a priority. Sales during the pandemic were online, by order, and not in the markets anymore”. They added: “tourists stopped coming because of the pandemic, and also because the territorial problems frightened them, people wouldn’t come here anymore”.
From their perspective, they received many tourists before the pandemic: “Sometimes we left it open out front and tourists came in to see, we’d sell, but not any more afterwards”. In general, the pandemic was “something new” for the Ñocha Malen group, whose members had to learn about using social media, with virtual training provided by Fundación Artesanías Chile about how to sell their products and design new models.
AM indicated that the pandemic strongly affected her due to their storefront closing: “We tried to get out what we had, we tried to sell it on the down-low. We’d connect with our people and sometimes make a sale that way”. She also mentioned: “psychologically, we were really bad because we didn’t know whether we should open the store or leave it closed, with all the health demands and rules that there were”. NP said that she started taking online classes, which made the pandemic no obstacle for her: “I sold online, I’d upload my things. I always used Facebook more than Instagram. The other artisans kept up too. There were problems with the signal because some people live a long way from town, but we found ways to communicate”. This indicates that although tourist activities were highly vulnerable to the pandemic, connectivity allowed people to generate resilience to adapt and recover [
7].
As lockdown measures decreased, tourism gradually opened up [
33]. According to SM, after the pandemic, there was more help, with rising participation in traditional fairs, popular festivals, and recreational activities, which also helped people who learned about entrepreneurs’ work online to reconnect with it in person. She also mentioned that after the pandemic, there were more paths on offer for entrepreneurs like herself to take part in artisans’ groups and self-manage their activities in parties which were not necessarily centered on Mapuche attractions, including the Chilean national festivities celebrated in Cañete each year. PC said his sales went up after the pandemic and re-stabilized, with currently normal sales for his instruments and silver goods.
3.3. The Post-Pandemic Context and Reopening of Mapuche Tourism in Arauco Province
The crisis scenario revealed a need in Chile for stronger guild associations within indigenous tourism from a public policy perspective [
15]. In a post-pandemic context, there were efforts to connect with urban and rural Mapuche tourism entrepreneurs in Alto Biobío, Tirúa, Cañete, and Lake Lanalhue via events organized by Sernatur and the regional government of Biobío. These efforts were made to drive cultural interchanges and share experiences about cultural preservation and tourism sustainability which could help “develop the territory and preserve a culture and identity in parallel with local economic development, promote responsible tourism, and preserve and share the wealth of indigenous traditions”. An encounter carried out in October 2023 explored crucial topics for native tourism, including protections for cultural heritage and the vital role for communities in developing authentic tourist experiences [
34]. FM said that after the pandemic, there was greater associativity between entrepreneurs and the tourism service, leading to a more solid organization: “Unfortunately, with any kind of investment you want to make in the town the forestry companies are always there. If it’s not CMPC, it’s Arauco, so we’ve moved away from this type of negotiations too, and people look for other ways to organize and manage their resources”.
Native peoples have generally transmitted their principles of mutual respect and a life in communication with nature via tourism, promoting a balance between the economy, environment, and society. Tourism practices in recent decades have also brought an association with the mission of protecting cultural knowledge in order to project it into future generations [
15]. In this regard, PC mentioned: “We’re a Mapuche people without recognition as such. Tourists are thankful we can show them part of our culture. They’re amazed by the music, the sound, the melodies”.
Various perspectives have been observed so far, reflecting the richness of Lavkenche Mapuche socio-cultural systems in Arauco. Traditional perspectives and contemporary innovations come together in a dialogue about how tourism can become a positive force for cultural preservation and sustainable development [
35]. According to Pérez, encounters with tourists and development promotors have re-signified the indigenous worldview. Local identities have taken on a leading role in local, national, and transnational political agendas [
36]. Following the crisis, opportunities have been established to create environmental and health consciousness, involving the entire tourism production chain [
15]. In this regard, there is a consensus that public support is needed to strengthen indigenous tourism, since it is the economic support for thousands of families with historical sectorial gaps [
15]. According to the experience of the Ñocha Malen group, in the post-pandemic context, “in-person forms came back. Artisans got together, they had meetings to see whether they could do markets again, but it took a year longer than what the pandemic did. Artisans started meeting again in the squares to present projects”. FM said that “after the pandemic we started coming up again, open markets started to take place for tourism. People want tourism back now”.
Conflicts with forestry businesses remain, however, and have become more complex in the post-pandemic period due to situations including violence or the water crisis affecting much of the territory occupied by plantations and the neighbors of Mapuche communities. Increasing tourism has raised conflicts with extractive economic activities associated with political and economic power over the territory [
37]. SM mentioned in this regard that “you see it when you go to the places from when I was a girl, you’d go and visit and you could gather, like, chamomile or lavender growing free in the countryside. Now you go to those places and they’re full of [exotic] pines, there’s no kind of native plants”. She also mentioned: “There’s spaces to recover flora, but they’re small, and unfortunately the spaces the forestry companies set out are minimal. You see everything full of pines. It’ll never be like it was before. There are very few conservation spaces”. NP said, “Nature is ending, the forestry companies are invading. We walk out the door and there’s trees that aren’t from our land, brought in by others for more lucrative benefits, which is how I say it”. She added that “It’s a topic that affects our own sales. We have the cleanest lake in South America, and people want to see it, but because of what they see on TV people don’t come”.
From a spiritual perspective, FM mentioned that the pandemic was something they saw coming: “The machis [healers] always said that diseases would come along that weren’t from here, that were damaging for children and the elderly, and that’s what happened”. EA added: “As a Mapuche I wasn’t going to get that disease because I was going to be prepared beforehand. I’d keep taking my lawen [medicine] and if I took care of myself, my yerba mate, all the medicinal remedies, and that made me feel good”.
There was also a recognition that spirituality is something which has always been present among indigenous communities dedicated to tourism during and after the pandemic. It is a dimension which is transmitted via their way of doing tourism: “It comes from our being when we connect with our fabric. I bring my knowledge from my ancestors. It’s a magical connection”, said NP, a member of the Mapuche Art and Trade School. A Ñocha Malen group member mentioned that spirituality is always present in the works which they carry out, including the llepu, where, during ceremonies, especially when a machi is present, food such as wheat and beans are given as an offering to the newen or strong spirits of the ñuke mapu. This relation is expressed between human beings and the species of what for modern ontologies would be the plant world or nature. From Mapuche ontology, EA indicated: “As Mapuche we’re very spiritual. We converse with the plant, the lawen, various plants, we kneel to the plant and pray to it, and we receive newen”.
FM mentioned that this spirituality has always been communicated via conversations, wherein visitors are educated about the history of Mapuche society and the relations between spirituality and nature. This relation is represented by the respect and union between human beings and nature, which does not exist separately as with modern ontology. We can also observe that tourism provides a space for environmental and intercultural education which considers a revindication of Mapuche knowledge against the expansion of forestry plantations: “Tourists from Santiago see a forest and say ‘How nice! There’s trees!’, but we tell them that those aren’t forests, they’re plantations. A forest is different, it’s wetter and it has biodiversity”. He continued: “they get a little message that you have to care for what’s left, as well as showing how the big extractivist companies have dried out the territory”. According to FM, their tourism intends to be a sustainable tourism rather than a mass variety. There is also an intention to be part of an economy where money remains within the territory, considering tourism as a community livelihood and a sustainability strategy.