4.1. Materials
In this work, we used a non-ionic dye, without polarity, of the disperse class, referenced as Disperse Red 1 CI 11,110 (DR1), supplied by the company Clariant, whose chemical structure is shown in
Figure 14. As it is a non-ionic dye, ion exchange techniques cannot be used for its adsorption; however, it is expected that this will contribute to a more efficient and simple desorption. This dye is commercially distributed with a certain amount of dispersing agent to facilitate its dispersion in water, as it has low solubility [
57]. It should be noted that, due to the objectives of this work, this dye has high ecotoxicity both before and after chlorination [
58,
59].
In order to adsorb the dispersed dye, it was necessary to use a nanoadsorbent. In this work, we used clay from the LDH type, specifically, hydrotalcite: Mg
6Al
2(CO
3)(OH)
16·4(H
2O) [
60,
61,
62]. Due to the fact that the chosen dye is non-ionic, it was possible to work with LDH without any previous preparation to increase its ion exchange capacity; however, we decided to prepare it following the work of Dos Santos R.M.M. [
27] in order to compare results with other works and future research. This preparation consisted of introducing the clay to an oven at 600 °C for 3 h to destroy its structure, which was then reconstructed thanks to its shape memory when it comes into contact with water in the dye adsorption phase.
Figure 15 shows a representation of the structure of hydrotalcite and shows the basal and interlamellar spacing of its lamellae.
4.2. Synthesis Methods
Wastewater from a conventional dyeing process contains dyes that have not been absorbed by the fibre during the dyeing process, and which are going to be discharged or subjected to a purification process. In this work, clay was used to adsorb the dye in solution or aqueous dispersion. To control both the amount of dye in the dye bath and the amount that may remain after adsorption, it was necessary to calculate the Lambert–Beer line [
58]. By making several dilutions of the dye at certain known concentrations, it was possible to obtain this line with its corresponding equation (Equation (1a–c)) to calculate the amount of dye that would be present in each case.
Equation (2) Lambert–Beer line equation and R2 for Disperse Red 1 (DR1).
Adsorption studies were carried out with real dye wastewater, and the effectiveness of the adsorption method was proven. However, certain conditions were simulated in the laboratory, which are detailed below [
63,
64]. Five litres of dye bath were prepared with only the dye, without adding any type of salt, dispersant, or any other product, since the initial objective was to load the clay with only the dye. These 5 litres had a concentration of 1 g·L
−1 of dye, to which, once the dye was dispersed, 3 g·L
−1 of hydrotalcite was added. The dispersion was then stirred to maximise dye adsorption. This agitation was carried out with a magnetic stirrer and consisted of two phases. In the first phase, a stirring speed of 1600 r.p.m. was applied for 2 h. In the second phase, the stirring speed was reduced to 500 r.p.m. for a further 22 h, so that the adsorbed dye did not escape from the clay due to overly energetic stirring [
65].
The thermogravimetric analyser TGA/SDTA 851 (Mettler-Toledo Inc., Columbus, OH, USA) was used to evaluate the thermal resistance of the dye, LDH, and hybrids using thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). For this experimental process, a temperature increase rate of 5 °C every minute was used for a range from 20 to 900 °C in an oxidation medium of N2:O2 (4:1).
After achieving the adsorption of the dye, the hybrid obtained was separated from the water, for which a filtration process was carried out so that all the water passes through by gravity and the clay–dye hybrid is retained by the filter. At this stage, the solid phase remains in the upper part, while the liquid part falls. This process was carried out for 48 h to ensure that all the water passed through a 130 g·m
−2 filter paper with pores of 25–30 µm and a thickness of 430 µm. The collected water was analysed in an absorption spectrophotometer to calculate the amount of dye remaining in the simulated wastewater [
66,
67]. At the same time, the solid hybrid was dried at 70 °C in an air oven to eliminate any remaining aqueous residue, obtaining the hybrid (HDR1) resulting from the adsorption of the Red Disperse Dye 1 and the hydrotalcite.
4.3. Dyeing Method and Desorption
The reverse process in which the dye leaves the clay and returns, for example, to an aqueous phase, is called desorption [
68,
69]. Different models by various researchers [
70,
71,
72] have offered different ways of achieving this desorption process. Some of them are described as continuous adsorption/desorption models, in which the system is non-ideal and can be reversed. Some also describe them as systems in which the adsorption is not completely equal and homogeneous; therefore, there is no clear interaction between all the active groups; furthermore, they are not sufficiently fixed to the clay structure. Momina, Shahadat Mohammad, and Suzylawati Isamil [
73] proposed a model in which it is essential to use two phases to obtain good results, as either phase alone is not sufficient. One phase is based on subjecting the hybrids to high temperatures to weaken the bond between the dye and clay molecules, and then finishing the separation by immersing the compound in substances that break the adsorption, such as nitric acid, hydrochloric acid, or acetone [
73].
After studying other research, we decided to apply a different technique for this study based on applying convective heat such as that of a bath at 130 °C and, at the same, time introducing all the additional elements necessary (dispersants, salts, etc.) to carry out a PES dyeing (
Figure 16). In this way, the energy introduced is used much more effective when performing the separation; moreover, by performing the dye–fibre bonding at the same time, it is not possible for the dye to be re-adsorbed by the clay and produce a barrier effect to successfully complete the desorption.
In accordance with the above, the clay loaded with HDR1 dye was used as an element to provide the colour to the textile substrate in a closed machine dyeing process by exhaustion. Obviously, the clay itself cannot provide any colour; however, in the desorption process, the dye that is trapped by the hydrotalcite is released from the hybrid, remaining in dispersion in the bath, and allowing the dyeing process to take place. The substrate to be dyed was a 200 g·m−2 100% PES plain weave calada fabric with densities of 13 yarns·cm−1, 52 weft·cm−1.
The bath ratio to used was 1/40, and the amount of hybrid was 40 on fibre weight. This bath was adjusted to a pH of 5, and 1 g·L−1 ammonium sulphate (NH4)2SO4 and 0.5 g·L−1 Dekol SN dispersant were introduced to achieve a good dispersion of the dye, which is not soluble. The dye bath with all the elements listed was subjected to a heating process at 130 °C for 30 min. As the temperature is higher than 100 °C, in order to avoid evaporation, it must take place in a closed dyeing machine (Testherm type 9S from the manufacturer Talcatex S.A., San Sebastian de los Reyes, Spain). After dyeing, the fabric was washed with distilled water, and this water and the remaining water in the dye bath was collected and filtered again using gravity, as in the synthesis of the hybrid; then, the remaining clay was collected. The rest of the fabric was washed at 60 °C for 30 min with non-ionic detergent and a dispersant-sequestering agent to remove the dye residues that remained fixed to the fibre. This process was repeated with the clays recovered after each dyeing until a total of 6 cycles were carried out, at the end of which there was only a very slight dyeing of the fabric, and the clay was considered to be exhausted for dyeing processes.
4.4. Characterisation
A Jasco V-670 double UV–VIS/NIR spectrophotometer was used to calculate the colour of all the hybrids, both initial, inter-meridian, and final, working in the range between 190 and 2700 nm and measuring with a frequency of 0.5 nm between each measurement. This was equipped with a monochromator with a double grating for each region, the two regions being the UV–VIS and the infrared IR. The two gratings had an autonomous system capable of detecting the wavelength at which one is working and making use of each of them according to the needs of the analysis. The CIE-1964 observer and the D65 illuminant were used, applying the reflectance factors. A halogen lamp (330–2700 nm) and a deuterium lamp (190–350 nm) were used as illumination sources [
74].
A scanning electron microscope (SEM) model PHENOM (FEI Company, Eindhoven, the Netherlands), operated at an acceleration of 5 kV, was used to visually analyse the topography of the dyed tissues. In order to have a conductive material, the samples were prepared in advance using a spray coating of a conductive alloy composed of palladium and gold. This coating was carried out with an EMITECH sputtering machine mod. SC7620 (Quorum Technologies Ltd., East Sussex, UK). Preparation with the coating will not alter the imaging result, as the thickness is less than 10 nm.
The different clays were loaded with dye and, after their respective desorptions, were analysed using an infrared spectrophotometer. Given the physical characteristics of the element to be analysed, an analysis was carried out using the horizontal attenuated total reflection technique (FTIR-ATR), with the use of a ZnSe prism. For the reading, a Jasco FTIR 4700 IRT 5200 spectrophotometer with a DTGS detector sensor was used. The use of a pressure accessory was necessary to obtain uniform readings for all samples.
For the study of clay crystallinity and the influence of dye adsorption/desorption, an X-ray diffraction (XRD) analysis [
75,
76] was carried out to analyse and compare the behaviour of each sample. Special attention was paid to the basal space between the clay sheets, which can alter the levels and capacities of dye adsorption. We worked in an oxidising atmosphere with an angular velocity of 1°/min, STEP 0.05°, and an angular sweep of 2.7–70° and used the RD bruker D8 Advance equipment (Bruker, Billerica, MA, USA), with a Göebel mirror (power: 3000 W, voltage: 20–60 kV and current: 5–80 mA).
For the measurement of the colour of each of the dyed fabrics, a Minolta CM-3600d reflection spectrophotometer and Spectramagic software were used, along with D65 illuminant. An observation at 10° with specular radiation was excluded. The same software was used to calculate the chromatic coordinates, K/S and Eab*, from the reflection results.
All the dyeing samples were assessed for colour fastness to check the correct fixing of the dye to the fibre. The colour fastness to washing was carried out following the instructions of the UNE-EN ISO 105-C06:1994 standard using the Linitest according to this standard. Depending on the needs of each product, tests with different characteristics can be carried out. In this case, the A1S test was selected, in which the washing was carried out in a 150 mL bath at 40 °C for 30 min. No pH adjustment was made and, in order to generate a more abrasive action, 10 standardised steel balls were added. Ironing fastness tests were also carried out on wet, damp, and dry ironing according to the UNE-EN ISO 105-X11 standard, using a pressure plate. These ironing tests were carried out at a temperature of 200 °C for 15 s. Finally, dry and wet rubbing colour fastness tests were carried out using a crockmeter and the indications given in the UNE-EN ISO 105-X12 standard.
The fastness results were expressed on a scale of 1 to 5 according to the greyscale. These results can be assessed visually in comparison with a greyscale or, as in the case of this work, they can be measured using equipment, and the result can be calculated mathematically and expressed according to the greyscale. The corresponding reflection measurements were carried out with the Minolta CM-3600d reflection spectrophotometer, as in the colour analysis, and the UNE-EN ISO 105-A05 standard was followed to calculate the discharge and colour degradation indices of the samples.
In order to determine the surface area, pore volume, and pore size, a BET analysis was carried out using different nitrogen adsorption and desorption values at −196 °C using Micromeritics ASAP-2020. The samples were initially degassed in a controlled vacuum atmosphere at temperatures in the range of 140 °C to 200 °C to decompose any sensitive atoms in the analysed samples [
47,
48].
For the energetic study of the bonds, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS, NEXSA, Thermo Scientific) was used for surface analysis using radiation (1486.6 eV), monochromatised by a double crystal monochromator, which forms a focused X-ray spot 400 µm in diameter, at 6 mA × 12 kV. The equipment was equipped with an alpha hemispherical analyser, which was operated in constant energy mode with analysis step energies of 200 eV for full energy band measurements and 50 eV in a narrow scan to obtain the results of individual elements. Thus, XPS was used to obtain the chemical bonding state and elemental composition of the surface of the samples. Charge compensation was achieved with the flood gun system, whereby low-energy electrons and low-energy argon ions were obtained from a single source.
The experimental model published by Momina, Shahadat Mohammad, and Suzylawati Isamil [
73] provides a methodology with which to evaluate the chemical resistance using methylene blue (MB) desorption. This method is based on subjecting the clay–dye hybrid to different temperature conditions and using solvents such as HCl and NaOH. The experimental process begins by heating the sample of the dry, solid hybrid collected in the experimental adsorption step at approximately 150–200 °C for 45 min. This weakens the bonds between the adsorbent and the dye. In the next step, HCl or NaOH is added where appropriate to the experimental sample, and the mixture is stirred for 30 min. Finally, the mixture is filtered to separate the clay solids from the solution.