Determinants of the Intention to Use Refills in the Cosmetic Industry

Abstract

The aim of the paper is to identify factors determining the intention to use refill cartridges in the cosmetics industry. As part of the work, two research questions and twelve corresponding hypotheses were formulated. Achieving the assumed goal was possible thanks to literature research and empirical research based on survey results from a sample of 226 respondents from different countries. The analysis of the collected data was carried out using the structural equation modelling method (PLS-SEM), thanks to which the scales measuring individual constructs (factors) were validated and a model was generated, based on which the constructs that had the greatest impact on the intentions to use refill technology were determined. The study showed that the factors that have the strongest impact on intentions to use refills are the expected ease of use and expected economic usefulness. Expected environmental utility turned out to be a non-significant predictor. Factors influencing actual consumer behaviour were also examined, including usage intentions and promotion. The study also analysed the mediating role of usage intention, which was confirmed in relation to the relationship of the constructs, including expected economic utility, the expected ease of use, and social pressure relating to actual behaviours, but was not confirmed in the relationship of the construct expected environmental utility with actual behaviours. The moderating role of the dichotomous variable background, dividing the respondents into the group of Poles and foreigners, was also examined. The obtained results showed that the moderation effect was confirmed only for the relationship between expected economic utility and intentions to use refills.

1. Introduction

As technology advances and the public becomes more environmentally conscious, issues related to sustainable development have become a priority for many industries, including the cosmetic industry. This sector is undertaking multiple efforts to reduce its environmental impact [1,2,3,4,5,6]. Research indicates that cosmetics companies strive to protect the environment and biodiversity through initiatives focused on reducing CO₂ emissions, waste production, water consumption, and plastic usage, including microplastics [7]. Environment-friendly cosmetic packaging is a crucial area of growing consumer and producer interest, especially since 20% of all emissions from the cosmetics industry occur in packaging [8]. Researchers often focus on biodegradable packaging made from biopolymers [9,10] and solutions that facilitate plastic recycling [11]. However, in addition to reducing society’s dependence on plastic, efforts should be made to minimise the overall packaging volume. This approach has led to products packaged without plastic, such as solid bar products [12]. One way to reduce packaging use in the cosmetics industry is to shift towards refillable beauty products [12]. According to research [8], this packaging is rated very favourably compared to traditional packaging made of fossil fuels in terms of durability and strength, reducing production costs, sale price, reducing carbon emissions, waste reduction, brand image, and social responsibility. Moreover, the authors of article [3] claim that the reuse of packaging should be given priority over dematerialization and recycling. On the other hand, there are certain barriers that need to be overcome in order to make consumers more willing to buy products in such packaging [8,13,14]. Undoubtedly, one of the most important issues is changing consumer habits and moving away from the culture of throwing away in favour of solutions supporting zero-waste behaviours [15].

This topic remains relatively under-researched, especially in former Eastern Bloc countries like Poland. Furthermore, there are no comparative studies on refill packaging juxtaposing Polish consumers with those in other parts of the world. Recognising this research gap, we aim to address it in this study. Our research framework is the Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology (UTAUT), which serves as the theoretical foundation for our investigations. The study aims to understand the factors motivating consumers to choose refills. We believe that this contribution should empower beauty companies to adapt their products to a dynamically evolving market and optimise their marketing strategies. Moreover, the analysis could significantly boost public environmental awareness and promote sustainable consumer practises.

This study’s main research problem and primary objective are to determine the factors shaping the intention to use refills in the cosmetic industry. The following research questions were posed to address this:

• What factors determine the use of refills?
• Are the relationships between these factors and the use of refills mediated or moderated by other variables?

The research objective was pursued with a combination of literature reviews and empirical research. The literature review focused on defining observable variables that measure constructs related to cosmetic refill technology under the UTAUT. These variables were then used in a survey among 226 international respondents. The data analysis involved validating the measurement scales for the observable variables within each construct and modelling the factors influencing the intention to use refills using Partial Least Squares Structural Equation Modelling (PLS-SEM).

The article contains three subject matter sections. Section 2 provides a theoretical background on sustainable development and presents the concept of refillable beauty products in the context of constructs derived from the UTAUT model. Section 3 discusses the methodology of our empirical research. This includes details of data analysis using the PLS-SEM algorithm, the structure of the survey questionnaire, and the characteristics of the research sample. Section 4 covers the results of the empirical research, specifically the validation of the validity and reliability scales of the measurement model, determination of the relationships between the constructs, and investigation of the impact of the constructs on the intention to use and actual behaviours. This section also explores whether the intention to use mediates the relationships between established constructs and actual behaviours and whether the assumed variable of consumer cultural background moderates the relationships between the intention to use and actual behaviours, as well as the relationships between constructs consistent with the UTAUT model and the intention to use. The results are then put into context in Section 5. Section 6 includes a summary of the results, the main conclusions, limitations encountered during the analysis of the results, and suggested further research.

2. Literature Review

2.1. Hypotheses Based on the Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology

The theoretical framework for the empirical research is the Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology (UTAUT) [16]. According to the theory, the intentions of the technology users are affected by such constructs as (1) performance expectancy, (2) effort expectancy, and (3) social influence. The actual behaviour is driven by the intentions and facilitating conditions. This theory is often employed in research on technology connected with sustainable development along the theory of planned behaviour [17,18,19]. Moreover, UTAUT synthesises constructs from multiple models such as the Theory of Reasoned Action [20], Technology Acceptance Model [21], and Social Cognitive Theory [22], making it widely applicable across contexts where new behaviours or technologies are introduced. Its constructs address both individual attitudes and external conditions, which are critical for explaining how consumers approach refillable products. Alternative models, like the Theory of Planned Behaviour (TPB) [23] and the Diffusion of Innovation Theory (DOI) [24], either lack a strong focus on external conditions (TPB) or focus too much on characteristics of the innovation itself (DOI), making UTAUT better suited for exploring consumer behaviour in this context.

Expected economic utility is connected with anticipated beneficial economic or financial gains for the consumer resulting from a purchase decision [18,19]. In the context of the analysis of the intention to use refillable beauty products, this variable involves actual savings derived from refills compared to standard packaging [8,13]. Purchasing a refill is more profitable than purchasing a product in the standard packaging of the same volume due to a lower price. Moreover, many manufacturers who have implemented this eco-innovation offer extra benefits of refills, such as larger volumes at the same price, so that a single refill can replenish several standard volumes of the product. The economic benefits of this solution are evident not only in terms of consumer wallets but also for manufacturers in the beauty industry [8]. Refills are simple and minimalistic because they do not need to attract the consumer’s attention with gilded lids or colourful labels. Instead, their allure is functionality, reasonable pricing, and environmental impact. This way, refillable beauty manufacturers reduce the costs of standard packaging, which is usually made of heavy materials, such as glass. Packaging cost reductions entail lower transport costs because refills without standard packaging are lighter and easier to store thanks to their regular shape, which helps optimise storage space and logistics. What is more, refills improve customer loyalty [12]. Therefore, we put forward the following hypothesis:

H1a. 

The expected economic utility of using refills in the cosmetic industry significantly influences the intention to use them.

The construct of expected environmental utility involves anticipated beneficial effects for the environment connected with the use of a specific technology [18,19], in this case, refills. The significance of environmental factors is not always supported by empirical research [18,25]. Up to 70% of waste in the cosmetic industry comes from packaging materials, most of which are not recycled, according to the non-profit British Beauty Council [26]. The eco-innovation of replacing standard packaging with refills has substantially improved environmental statistics [8,13]. In the case of the Dutch luxury and sustainable beauty manufacturer Rituals Cosmetics, its 2020 shift to refills resulted in (1) the saving of 8.5 million litres of water, enough to fill 3.4 Olympic-size pools, (2) waste reduction of 237 thousand kg, (3) significant reduction in greenhouse gas emissions, equivalent to the amount of CO₂ generated by 1411 Amsterdam to New York flights, and (4) reduction in electricity consumption equivalent to 1806 households [27]. These effects show the tremendous environmental impact of transitioning from traditional cosmetic packaging to refills. This approach meaningfully contributes to the preservation of natural resources, waste reduction—one of the Achilles’ heels of the industry—and carbon footprint cutback. These insights facilitate the following hypothesis:

H1b. 

The expected environmental utility of using refills in the cosmetic industry significantly influences the intention to use them.

The variable of the expected ease of use of refills is connected mainly with their availability to consumers. This construct usually significantly affects the intention to use technology [19,28]. In the cosmetics industry, the importance of a similar construct was confirmed in work [15]. Refillable care products such as hand soap, shower gels, or shampoos from affordable brands are much easier to find in local chemist’s chains or supermarkets. Refillable fragrances, make-up, or face cream products from prestigious brands can usually be bought only in selected luxury chemists. The COVID-19 pandemic reshuffled the system to a degree as some purchases moved online. Many consumers buy a product with which they are familiar (i.e., know its smell, consistency, or ingredients) online because it is more convenient and often saves time and money. Note, however, that e-commerce is not a method for eliminating the problem of the poor availability of refills to the general public in local stores. The Gemius survey shows that online shopping is embraced mainly by young people aged 15–24 and 25–34 [29]. For older people who are not that familiar with e-commerce and exercise caution when using the Internet, the availability of refills in local stores is critical for purchase decisions. Considering the above, we propose the following hypothesis:

H1c. 

The expected ease of use of refills in the cosmetic industry significantly influences the intention to use them.

The social influence construct concerns the strength of pressure their surroundings have on an individual in the context of making a decision or adopting a stance. This variable significantly impacts consumer purchase decisions regarding refills vs. standard packaging. This is confirmed by the qualitative research included in paper [13]. The pressure is building up in the face of the environmental crisis, driven by social media, informational campaigns, or global climate summits where sustainable development is discussed and the future of our planet is deliberated and doubted. Over two decades ago, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) proposed the concept of climate ‘tipping points’. When these thresholds are exceeded, the global environmental changes will be irreversible. The process has already begun with the disintegration of the West Antarctic Ice Sheet, causing the irreversible melting of Antarctic glaciers and Greenland’s ice caps. According to models, if the current levels of greenhouse gas emissions are not curbed, the atmosphere will warm up by 1.5 °C in the 2030s compared to the pre-industrial era (1850–1900), which will quickly melt Greenland’s ice cap [30]. The IPCC believes that the most significant risk for the planet is a cascade of tipping points. When it is set in motion, even zero greenhouse gas emissions cannot stop it. The trigger for the irreversible ecosystem changes (such as the loss of Amazon forests and their transition into savannahs or changes in monsoon cycles) is expected to be the warming-up threshold of 2 °C compared to pre-industrial temperatures [31]. The scale proposed by the IPCC can be perceived as a ‘progress bar’ for the sake of social influence, where exceeding consecutive thresholds increases the risk to the planet. In this context, the more tipping points are breached, the faster and more intensive the catastrophic effects on ecosystems and climate on Earth will be. The social pressure towards radical efforts, policy changes, and individual consumer choices to reduce adverse environmental impacts and expedite corrective actions grows with every tipping point.

The studies cited above suggest the following hypothesis:

H1d. 

Factors of social pressure significantly influence the intention to use refills in the cosmetic industry.

Considering that the study analyses the intention to use refills in the cosmetic industry, the facilitating conditions construct is specified as the promotion variable, which involves efforts from cosmetic brands to encourage consumers to use refills they manufacture. The role of promotion in the public acceptance of green technologies was investigated in [32,33,34]. In relation to refills, qualitative research included in the work [13] indicates the significant role of marketing communication. The key to the effective analysis of this construct is to understand how marketing campaigns and modern communication channels have evolved. When consumerism bloomed, marketing campaigns focused on TV and the press. Today, however, the reach of campaigns is often moulded by social media used mainly by young consumers. Such platforms as TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube have become critical channels for brands to reach a broad audience. Consequently, it is common for brands to collaborate with social media influencers. They promote products among their communities in exchange for free access to them (barter). This promotion model often builds authenticity and trust among followers, which can help improve the popularity and acceptance of refills. Another method of promotion, slightly more cost-intensive but also offering a better reach, is to organise an in-person marketing event. These events build consumer relationships and boost loyalty. With their presence, the brand hero, board, or representatives make consumers feel the brand’s engagement and easier identify with the brand, considering it more authentic and valuable. These insights lead to the next hypothesis:

H2a. 

Promotion of refills in the cosmetic industry significantly influences the use of such products.

The intention to use and actual consumer behaviours are two distinct constructs. The former focuses on planned purchase decisions, while the latter concerns actual actions customers take during the purchase process. The analysis and juxtaposition of these constructs promise an interesting insight into how intentions translate into specific purchase decisions, especially regarding eco-friendly products, such as refill cosmetics.

This comparison is rather interesting considering the high level of awareness of progressing climate change declared by respondents in a survey by IBRIS for Upfield Polska, available in the report ‘Zmiany klimatu a produkcja żywności—badanie świadomości Polaków’ [Climate Change and Food Production. Poles’ Awareness] [35]. They also appreciate that their everyday activities and choices actually affect the state of the Earth. Moreover, nearly 70% of them declared a willingness to dive deeper into the problem to help prevent climate change impacts to the extent available to them. However, even though the intentions of the participants were so noble, specific consumer behaviours spectacularly deviated from this regime. According to their responses, only one in four respondents with a standard diet would give up meat and dairy products if it meaningfully helped prevent adverse climate change [36]. Research shows that an individual’s actual behaviours do not always align with their intentions, driven by their subjective views. Someone refraining from implementing these high-minded intentions may have several, possibly overlapping, reasons. In the context of the survey discussed above, one of the reasons was the superficial environmental awareness of the respondents built on social media and television inputs solely as a response to social expectations. Another factor potentially accounting for the discord is habits. In his book Anthropology from a Pragmatic Point of View, I. Kant compares habits to animal instincts because through habits, ‘the animal in the human being jumps out far too much’ [37]. The philosopher perceives mainly pejorative aspects of habits because the impulsive and often unquestioning repetition of an act strips it of added value [38]. When Kant’s philosophy is applied to consumer choices of cosmetic products, some people do not make decisions based on value analysis. Instead, they use instincts and the mechanism of habit.

According to James Clear, the author of the best-selling Atomic Habits: Tiny Changes, Remarkable Results, what truly drives people is the love of comfort and laziness. The human brain is subconsciously programmed to pursue activities that require the smallest possible effort. Clear calls this mechanism the Law of Least Effort. It poses that when an individual faces two similar solutions, they will much more likely choose the one requiring less work [39]. The regime described by Clear is no different than the principle of least action of classical physics (Hamilton’s principle). According to the theory, two points always select the path requiring the least energy to cover. This concept has become the underpinning of many fundamental assumptions about the universe, but it can also be employed to describe consumer decision making. The consumer may lean towards a solution that requires the least effort and energy. For example, they may choose to buy a cosmetic in a traditional packaging they are familiar with rather than improve their environmental awareness or learn how to use an innovative solution, such as refills. Considering the above, we propose the following hypothesis:

H2b. 

The intention to use beauty refills significantly influences the use of these products.

These assumptions and the UTAUT model directed us towards a mediation analysis to determine whether the intention to use refills mediates the relationship between the constructs identified under the model and the actual behaviours of users of the investigated cosmetic eco-innovation. The mediating role of intentions is assumed by the model of Venkatesh et al. [16]. However, Bagozzi et al. indicate that the mediating role of intentions between factors and behaviour depends on the nature of the processes between intentions and behaviour [40]. The mediating effect of intentions is present in many studies [41,42,43]. In the cosmetics industry, the assumption about the mediating role of intention had already been made and turned out to be consistent with Venkantesh’s assumptions [15]. To this end, we propose the following hypothesis:

H3. 

The intention to use refills in the cosmetic industry mediates the relationship between the constructs and actual behaviours.

What is more, considering the diversified environmental awareness among global populations, we also investigated whether the sample background moderates the relationship between the intention to use refills and actual consumer behaviours and the relationship between the constructs under the UTAUT model and the intention to use the technology. Many scientific works show that the degree oriented towards sustainable development is dependent on culture, history, and economic development [44,45,46,47]. The results of this work indicate that a high rate of economic development (measured by GDP) does not always go hand in hand with a high rate of implementation of sustainable development goals [47]. In our sample, Americans and British people were the majority in the group of foreigners. Historically and culturally, they are close to each other. Moreover, they represent high-GDP societies. Poles represent a different culture and a society with a lower GDP (than the compared group). Therefore, the dichotomous background variable reflected our assumption that these two cultures are different. Based on the assumption above, we put forward the following hypotheses:

H4. 

The dichotomous variable background moderates the relationship between intention and actual behaviours.

H5a. 

The dichotomous variable background moderates the relationship between expected economic utility and intention.

H5b. 

The dichotomous variable background moderates the relationship between expected environmental utility and intention.

H5c. 

The dichotomous variable background moderates the relationship between social influence and intention.

H5d. 

The dichotomous variable background moderates the relationship between the expected ease of use and intention.

2.2. Empirical Studies on Cosmetic Refills

A growing number of manufacturers implement product innovations. The beauty sector is no exception. Still, it generates about 120 billion packages a year, 90% of which are not recycled [48]. To offer a more tangible view of the volume of waste the cosmetic industry generates, Zero Waste Scotland estimated that the average British household produces about 23 kg of plastic packaging annually, much of which is beauty and care products [49]. In light of the above, out-of-the-box environmentally friendly solutions, such as refillable beauty products, are on the rise. Refills are additional, replaceable inner containers which consumers can use to replenish used products. They can be inserted into the original packaging in place of consumed content. This approach meaningfully reduces waste and minimises material intake [12]. Moreover, according to the Dutch LCA Centre, cosmetic manufacturers could reduce their CO₂ emissions by 70% if they shifted from non-reusable to refillable containers [50]. It is a great stepping stone to more sustainable cosmetic consumption and production, a model which clearly contributes to the reduced environmental impact of the sector. Luxury beauty product manufacturers were among the first to realise that improving the public awareness of sustainable development tangibly affects consumer brand perception. When leading manufacturers such as Charlotte Tilbury, Stella McCartney, and Prada introduced this eco-innovation, the sales of refillable beauty products skyrocketed by 364% year-on-year between January 2022 and July 2022. To put this figure in context, the average sales growth in cosmetics is estimated at 30% a year [51].

Refillable beauty is no longer exclusive to luxury brands. Such products are growing more and more common among mass-market brands. Floslek is one of the first Polish beauty companies to offer refillable face creams in completely recyclable packaging [52]. It was closely followed by a wide array of refillable products by Yope, a brand focusing on soaps and other care products, such as shower gels or balms. Inglot, another well-known Polish cosmetics brand, has also joined the movement towards more sustainable beauty solutions. Their “Freedom System” allows customers to refill their makeup palettes with individual pans of eyeshadows, blushes, and powders. By marketing their refillable products, these brands encourage customers with various income levels to contribute to environmental protection. They make environmentally friendly products readily available to multiple social groups. These examples demonstrate that sustainable consumerism is growing more accessible and affordable to a broad and diversified consumer base.

The number of manufacturers offering refillable beauty products in various price ranges tangibly drives consumer interest in this approach. Customers increasingly consider green alternatives and sustainable options, which promotes refillable beauty acceptance. A 2023 study from the United States by BareLUXE, a sustainable cosmetics manufacturer, demonstrated that about 24% of the respondents regularly used refillable beauty products [53]. It is an auspicious result considering the short presence of the refillable beauty trend in the mainstream. The outcomes mean that nearly one-fourth of the respondents were actively interested in the matter and explicitly decided to make the eco-innovation part of their everyday lives.

2.3. Research Model

Following the literature review, we decided to employ the research model shown in Figure 1. Considering the specificity of the investigated topic, we divided the original UTAUT construct (expected utility) into two separate, more detailed ones concerning expected economic utility and expected environmental utility. The variables expected ease of use and social pressure come directly from the original model. They correspond to the constructs expected effort and social influence. The variables employed in the study directly impact consumer intentions regarding the use of refills in the cosmetic industry. Moreover, the analysis also includes a juxtaposition of purchase intentions with actual consumer purchase behaviours. The promotion construct, which corresponds to the facilitating conditions construct in the original UTAUT model, directly influences the actual use of refills. To elevate the sophistication of the model, we introduced a moderator variable, background. Its influence on the relationships is investigated further in the article.

3. Materials and Methods

3.1. Data Acquisition and Analysis

We started with a literature review, which allowed us to identify observable variables to measure the following constructs: expected environmental utility, expected economic utility, expected ease of use, social pressure, promotion, and intention to use refills in the cosmetic industry. Then, we conducted survey research using an electronic questionnaire (n = 226). The questionnaire was sent through personal contacts and was made public on social media. We did not decide to randomly select the sample because we would not have had a sampling frame. The data analysis involved the verification of scale reliability and validity metrics, such as factor loadings, average variance extracted (AVE), composite reliability (CR), and Cronbach’s alpha. The scale was deemed acceptable if the metrics met the following conditions:

–

average variance extracted (AVE) above 0.5;

–

composite reliability (CR) and Cronbach’s alpha above 0.7;

–

factor loadings above 0.5.

Moreover, we tested the discriminant validity with the Fornell–Larcker criterion and HTMT. The analysis was conducted in RStudio using the seminr library dedicated to these methods.

In the next step, we used the structural equation modelling method (SEM) with the Partial Least Squares approach (PLS). This sophisticated method combines regression analysis and measurable variables so that it can investigate latent constructs and measurable variables [54,55,56]. Based on this method, we consider a predictor to significantly affect the target variable when the beta path coefficient demonstrates the statistical significance and when the t-statistic is above 1.96 [57]. The analysis was conducted in R v. 4.3.1 with the seminr v. 2.3.3 library. This analysis allowed us to determine which of the constructs we examined significantly influenced the intentions to use refills and which influenced their actual use. Next, we investigated mediation analysis. It helped determine whether the intention to use refills mediates relationships between the actual behaviours of refill users and the expected economic utility, expected environmental utility, expected ease of use, and social pressure.

Finally, we conducted a moderation analysis. This helped us to understand whether the dichotomous variable background, reflecting the respondent’s country of origin (Pole/Foreigner), affects the relationship between intention and actual behaviours regarding the use of cosmetic refills and the relationship among expected economic utility, expected environmental utility, the expected ease of use, and social pressure and intention to use the refill technology.

The research process is shown in Figure 2.

3.2. Questionnaire Structure

We prepared an electronic survey to analyse each construct in the research model. Based on the literature review, we decided to use questions in the form of statements and standardise the responses with a 5-point Likert scale, where 1 stands for ‘strongly disagree’ and 5 codes ‘strongly agree’. The survey questions are presented in

Table 1. Survey questionnaire.

Construct	Item	Statement
Economic Utility	ECON1	The cost of cosmetic refills is lower than buying those products in standard packaging.
	ECON2	Cosmetic refills are more cost-effective than buying those products in standard packaging due to a larger volume.
	ECON3	Cosmetic refills are more cost-effective than buying those products in standard packaging due to additional benefits offered by beauty companies (e.g., 150 mL for free).
	ECON4	I find the cost of cosmetic refills acceptable.
	ECON5	Cosmetic refills are more cost-effective than buying those products in standard packaging due to the possibility of using multiple refills with the same standard packaging.
	ECON6	Cosmetic refills offer a good price-to-volume ratio because, compared to cosmetics in standard packaging, they come at a lower price for a larger volume.
	ECON7	Cosmetic refills offer a good quality-to-price ratio.
Environmental Utility	ENV1	I feel that I do something good for the environment by buying cosmetic refills.
	ENV2	Buying cosmetic refills contributes to reducing waste.
	ENV3	Buying cosmetic refills contributes to reducing carbon footprint.
	ENV4	Buying cosmetic refills contributes to the conservation of natural resources.
Perceived Ease of Use	EOU1	It is easy to use cosmetic refills.
	EOU2	Cosmetic refills are available close to where I live.
	EOU3	It is easy to store cosmetic refills.
	EOU4	It is easy to replenish a standard cosmetic product packaging with a refill.
	EOU5	The ease of using cosmetic refills is comparable to the ease of using those products in standard packaging.
Social Pressure	SP1	Buying cosmetic refills allows me to follow current trends.
	SP2	Buying cosmetic refills enhances my image as someone who cares about the environment.
	SP3	Buying cosmetic refills allows me to make a good impression on others.
	SP4	Buying cosmetic refills gives me social acceptance.
	SP5	Buying cosmetic refills makes me feel like a better person.
	SP6	By buying cosmetic refills, I feel that I am setting a good example to others.
	SP7	Buying cosmetic refills makes me feel accepted by my closest family/friends.
Intention to Use	INT1	I intend to buy cosmetic refills someday.
	INT2	I plan to buy cosmetic refills in the nearest future (within a year).
	INT3	I buy cosmetic refills and plan to continue doing so.
	INT4	The possibility of buying a refill for a specific cosmetic product makes me more likely to buy that product.
	INT5	A cosmetic brand’s pro-environmental actions, such as introducing and improving refills, make me more likely to choose its products.
Promotion	PROM1	Cosmetic refills are often advertised on social media.
	PROM2	Cosmetic refills are often advertised on television.
	PROM3	Cosmetic refills are often advertised in magazines.
	PROM4	Cosmetic refills are often a centrepiece of marketing events.
	PROM5	Cosmetic refills are often the subject of educational campaigns.
	PROM6	Cosmetic refills are often recommended by chemist’s/cosmetics store employees.
	PROM7	Cosmetic refills are promoted by influencers.
	PROM8	Cosmetic product refills are often added to products in standard packaging (as a ‘starter kit’ to encourage using cosmetic refills from a specific brand).
Actual Behaviour	AB1	I choose cosmetic products considering the availability of refills for them.
	AB2	I choose cosmetic refills even if I don’t have the specific cosmetic product in standard packaging (I can pour the product from its refill packaging into any container I have at home).
	AB3	I choose products from a specific cosmetic brand because of its pro-environmental efforts in improving and introducing refill options to the market.

Source: original study.

.

3.3. Sample

The study involved an online survey taken from January to April 2024. The survey sample consisted of 226 respondents from various countries, with the largest proportion of participants coming from Poland (54.87%), the United Kingdom (22.12%), and the United States (7.08%). Here, 14% of respondents came from various other countries. For analytical purposes, we divided the respondents into two groups: Poles (54.87%) and foreigners (45.13%). Americans and British were combined into one group because historically and culturally, they are close to each other. Moreover, they represent high-GDP societies. Poles represent a different culture and a society with a lower GDP. The sample comprised 84.07% women, 15.49% men, and one person identifying their gender as ‘other’. The majority of the respondents were aged 18–25 years (55.57%), followed by those aged 26–40 years (23.89%) and 41–60 years (17.7%). The distribution of the sizes of respondents’ places of residence was relatively uniform, with most individuals coming from cities with up to 100,000 inhabitants (33.19%), followed by cities with 101,000 to 500,000 inhabitants (24.34%), cities with over 500,000 inhabitants (23.45%), and rural areas (19.03%). The highest level of education among the respondents was secondary education (59.29%), followed by higher education (36.73%).

4. Results

4.1. Validation of the Measurement Model

We validated the measurement model with the average variance extracted (AVE), composite reliability (CR), and Cronbach’s alpha to determine the quality of the measurement scales employed in the questionnaire. We also calculated factor loadings for each scale individually.

The coefficients in

Table 2. Indicator reliability, convergent reliability, and internal consistency.

Construct	Item	Loadings	AVE	CR	Cronbach’s Alpha
Economic Utility	ECON1	0.703	0.575	0.904	0.876
	ECON2	0.845
	ECON3	0.727
	ECON4	0.744
	ECON5	0.718
	ECON6	0.775
	ECON7	0.788
Environmental Utility	ENV1	0.841	0.708	0.907	0.863
	ENV2	0.831
	ENV3	0.864
	ENV4	0.831
Perceived Ease of Use	EOU1	0.809	0.596	0.877	0.824
	EOU2	0.478
	EOU3	0.846
	EOU4	0.865
	EOU5	0.795
Social Pressure	SP1	0.730	0.594	0.911	0.886
	SP2	0.786
	SP3	0.836
	SP4	0.772
	SP5	0.776
	SP6	0.759
	SP7	0.728
Intention to Use	INT1	0.807	0.690	0.917	0.887
	INT2	0.870
	INT3	0.801
	INT4	0.845
	INT5	0.828
Promotion	PROM1	0.769	0.524	0.897	0.870
	PROM2	0.714
	PROM3	0.762
	PROM4	0.730
	PROM5	0.614
	PROM6	0.817
	PROM7	0.768
	PROM8	0.585
Actual Behaviour	AB1	0.868	0.678	0.863	0.760
	AB2	0.747
	AB3	0.849

Source: original study.

exceed the specified thresholds for all the constructs: Cronbach’s alpha and CR exceed 0.7 and AVE values exceed 0.5. Factor loadings for individual items assume values higher than 0.5. Only in the case of the expected ease of use, variable EOU2 (statement ‘Cosmetic refills are available close to where I live’) has a factor loading of 0.478, which is below the assumed 0.5 scale. The outlier variable was not excluded from further analyses because its factor loading does not affect the other validity and reliability metrics investigated in the study. Therefore, we consider the measurement model’s convergent reliability and internal consistency acceptable.

We also verified the model’s discriminant validity with the Heterotrait–Monotrait criterion and Fornell–Larcker criterion. According to the Heterotrait–Monotrait criterion, values in an HTMT table should be below 0.85 [58], and the Fornell–Larcker criterion requires that AVE root squares be higher than their highest correlation with any construct [59]. The results of these calculations are shown in

Table 3. Discriminant validity: Heterotrait–Monotrait criterion.

	ECON	ENV	EOU	SP	PROM	INT	AB
ECON
ENV	0.669
EOU	0.689	0.518
SP	0.482	0.656	0.432
PROM	0.180	0.163	0.296	0.299
INT	0.670	0.608	0.665	0.569	0.177
AB	0.518	0.565	0.548	0.590	0.401	0.774

Source: original study.

and

Table 4. Discriminant validity: Fornell–Larcker criterion.

	ECON	ENV	EOU	SP	PROM	INT	AB
ECON	0.758
ENV	0.588	0.842
EOU	0.602	0.455	0.772
SP	0.433	0.584	0.382	0.770
PROM	0.156	0.135	0.232	0.271	0.724
INT	0.595	0.536	0.589	0.508	0.165	0.831
AB	0.424	0.462	0.420	0.487	0.347	0.638	0.823

Source: original study.

. Values of the constructs conform to the Heterotrait–Monotrait criterion and Fornell–Larcker criterion, demonstrating an excellent discriminant validity of the measurement model.

4.2. Search for Factors of Refill Use

Having validated the measurement model’s constructs, we proceeded to the next analytical step: determining the relationships among the constructs and investigating their influence on the intention to use cosmetic refills and actual behaviours. We employed the PLS-SEM method to generate a plot for the model shown in Figure 3.

We calculated the coefficient of determination R² for the structural model to establish the extent to which the variance in the explained variable overlaps with correlations among the model’s variables [60]. The model explains 50.1% of variances in the constructs intention to use and promotion for actual behaviours, while the variance in the constructs expected economic utility, expected environmental utility, the expected ease of use, and social pressure for intention to use is explained in 46.7%. These results demonstrate that the model fits the data well. The beta path coefficient analysis revealed how much the constructs influence intention to use and actual behaviours. The model shows that the construct intention to use is influenced the most by the expected ease of use (β = 0.302) and expected economic utility (β = 0.244), while actual behaviours is driven mostly by intention to use (β = 0.597). The influences are positive in all the cases listed above. The least significant predictor is expected environmental utility, the beta path coefficient of which is only 0.132. Considering the statistics and confidence intervals in

Table 5. Structural model assessment.

Hypothesis		Path Coeff.	Bootstrap Mean	Bootstrap SD	t-Stat	2.5% CI	97.5% CI	Supported
H1a	Economic Utility → Intention to Use	0.244	0.250	0.077	3.159	0.088	0.397	Yes
H1b	Environmental Utility → Intention to Use	0.132	0.132	0.070	1.902	−0.010	0.270	No
H1c	Perceived Ease of Use → Intention to Use	0.302	0.300	0.074	4.086	0.154	0.439	Yes
H1d	Social Pressure → Intention to Use	0.210	0.214	0.062	3.384	0.085	0.333	Yes
H2a	Promotion → Actual Behaviour	0.248	0.259	0.046	5.381	0.170	0.349	Yes
H2b	Intention to Use → Actual Behaviour	0.597	0.594	0.047	12.624	0.495	0.678	Yes

Source: original study.

, we determined which hypotheses can be verified positively. Hypotheses H1a, H1c, H1d, H2a, and H2b are significant predictors for the structural model. Their t-statistics exceed the specified threshold of 1.96, and confidence intervals do not contain 0. Hypothesis H1b, concerning the significance of the relationship of expected environmental utility and intention to use, was classified as statistically insignificant because it did not meet the t-statistic significance condition (t < 1.96).

4.3. The Mediating Role of Intention to Use Refills

The PLS-SEM study was followed by a mediation analysis to estimate the influence of a (mediator) variable on the existing relationship between two separate variables [61]. The mediator whose influence on the variables we tested is the intention to use construct. Results in

Table 6. Structural model assessment (mediation).

Hypothesis	Original Est.	Bootstrap Mean	Bootstrap SD	t-Statistic	2.5% CI	97.5% CI	Supported
Economic Utility → Intention to Use → Actual Behaviours	0.146	0.149	0.047	3.083	0.054	0.241	Yes
Environmental Utility → Intention to Use → Actual Behaviours	0.079	0.078	0.042	1.880	−0.006	0.160	No
Perceived Ease of Use → Intention to Use → Actual Behaviours	0.180	0.178	0.045	3.980	0.091	0.264	Yes
Social Pressure → Intention to Use → Actual Behaviours	0.125	0.127	0.039	3.201	0.049	0.208	Yes

Source: original study.

show that intention to use directly mediates the relationship between expected economic utility and actual behaviours, the relationship between the expected ease of use and actual behaviours, and the relationship between social pressure and actual behaviours. Results of the t-statistic exceed 1.96 for each relationship, and confidence intervals do not contain 0, which means the direct influence of the mediator on the relationships is statistically significant. The relationship between the variables expected environmental utility and actual behaviour is not mediated by intention to use because its t-statistic value is 1.88, which is less than 1.96.

4.4. The Moderating Role of the Country of Origin

In moderation analysis, we investigated whether the influence of an independent variable (IV) and a dependent variable (DV) hinges on the value of another variable, a moderator. Considering the international reach of the study, we decided to use the dichotomous variable background as the moderator, which divides the respondents into two groups: Poles and Foreigners. The relationships to investigate were selected based on the assumed influences of the moderator on relationships among the variables under the UTAUT model (Figure 1) and intention to use. We also employed a causal relationship to investigate how the moderator affects relationships between intention to use and actual behaviours. The results are shown in

Table 7. Structural model assessment (moderation).

Hypothesis	Original Est.	Bootstrap Mean	Bootstrap SD	t-Stat	2.5% CI	97.5% CI	Supported
Economic Utility × Background→ Intention to Use	−0.175	−0.174	0.075	−2.332	−0.324	−0.027	Yes
Environmental Utility × Background→ Intention to Use	0.059	0.059	0.073	0.800	−0.089	0.198	No
Perceived Ease of Use × Background→ Intention to Use	0.073	0.071	0.072	1.012	−0.068	0.211	No
Social pressure × Background→ Intention to Use	0.035	0.036	0.065	0.530	−0.097	0.157	No
Intention to Use × Background→ Actual Behaviours	0.032	0.029	0.052	0.613	−0.073	0.129	No

Source: original study.

. It demonstrates that the moderation effect exists only in the relationship of expected economic utility*background to intention to use. The influence is negative and statistically significant, as confirmed by the t-statistic value of −2.332 and the confidence intervals of [−0.324; −0.027] being significantly different from 0.

The moderation effect is additionally visualised as a plot in Figure 4. The graph also suggests that the differences between the groups of the background variable are significant. Therefore, the variable moderates the relationship between expected economic utility and intention to use. The plot shows how the relationship between expected economic utility and intention to use behaves within the groups of the background moderator variable. In the case of Poles (Background = 0), intention to use grows with expected economic utility, while for other nationals (background = 1), intention to use plummets as expected economic utility increases.

5. Discussion

The results provide various, and sometimes unexpected, conclusions regarding the intention to use refills and the actual behaviours of consumers from Poland and around the world.

The acceptability of hypotheses H1a, H1c, and H1d demonstrates that factors determining economic benefits from the use of refills, the expected ease of use of the new technology, and the social pressure on consumers significantly impact the intention to use the eco-innovation. In the context of hypothesis H1a (the impact of economic utility on intentions to use refills), the analysis confirmed that the overriding value guiding the potential users of refillable beauty products is the ratio of price to quality and the cost-effectiveness of this solution compared to traditional packaging. The collected data show that consumers seek new, more economical solutions in their daily lives, considering the current economic crises, rising inflation, and price hikes. Our results are therefore similar to those presented in refs. [8,13]. There, economic factors are also indicated as the main determinants of the attractiveness of refill packaging. Another factor influencing the intention to use the refill eco-innovation is its ease of use (Hypothesis H1c). The authors of ref. [13] indicate that availability is one of the factors determining the attractiveness of refills. Our research is consistent with this finding. Moreover, we complement them by including functionality issues as elements of ease of use refills. In our opinion, the high value of this construct is associated with the technological overstimulation of society and the inhibition of cognitive abilities. This phenomenon causes young people raised in the era of rapid technological development (Generation Z) to seek simple, easy solutions that do not require much effort. Generation Y (the so-called Millennials) and Generation Z may also struggle in this regard. Overstimulation and the inability to keep up with the sheer volume of technological innovations make them appreciate the ease of use of a product in prosaic activities like shopping for cosmetics. Our results also supported the H1c hypothesis. Thus, we found that social pressure also significantly influences the intention to use refills. The results are similar to this in ref. [13], where the authors emphasise the role of peers and the influence of social media as elements of social pressure. Supporting hypotheses H1a and H1c is also consistent with studies [18,19], which, although concerning a different eco-innovation, i.e., prosumer photovoltaics, also used the UTAUT model. There, too, economic factors and ease of use turned out to be important determinants. However, social pressure regarding prosumer photovoltaics turned out to be insignificant. It can therefore be concluded that eco-innovation in the packaging industry is more sensitive to the determinants of social pressure. In our view, the number of ecological initiatives, climate summits, and persuasive media reports about the state of our planet have entered the social consciousness and encouraged consumers to consider trying pro-environmental solutions more often. However, the rejection of hypothesis H1b concerning the impact of environmental utility indicates a low level of societal education on environmental issues, especially regarding packaging eco-innovations in the cosmetic market. The analysis showed that environmental protection does not rank high among consumer priorities; instead, they are guided by subjectively superior values such as price, brand, or product convenience. These results confirm the reports contained in refs. [13,14], where lack of awareness and knowledge are indicated as the main barriers to the use of refills. An attitude change may be possible through increased educational campaigns promoting refill technology and a broader product portfolio, considering different price ranges and both budget and luxury brands.

The study also demonstrated the acceptance of hypotheses H2a and H2b. This result aligns with the assumptions in ref. [16]. The study showed that use intention and promotion are key factors influencing consumer behaviour when choosing refill technology. Based on causal relationships, it is logical that individuals with a greater intention to use are more likely to translate it into actual behaviour. This stems from consumers’ individual actions based on subjective emotions, considerations, and needs, which play a crucial role in the final decision-making process. The high value of the promotion construct as a factor influencing actual consumer behaviour is consistent with the results of work [13,14]. It may result from effective advertising strategies on social media involving famous influencers. As platforms like TikTok and Instagram flourish, these channels have become gateways to reach consumers from different generations and countries. As a result, barter exchanges between companies and influencers have become an increasingly frequent and highly effective promotion method. In exchange for the opportunity to use the promoted product for free, influencers praise it before a broader audience. Through this practice, the consumer is more likely to purchase the product because someone whose opinion they value has tested it and shared their view.

The mediation analysis results partially confirmed hypothesis H3. The mediating effect was present for most constructs (which is consistent with the research using the UTAUT model [41,42,43]), but not for environmental utility. The lack of confirmation of the mediating role of intention to use for the relationship between expected environmental utility and actual behaviours stems primarily from the fact that environmental utility does not significantly impact the intention to use refills. Meanwhile, the significance of this relationship is required in statistical mediation analysis. This suggests that although consumers may perceive the environmental benefits of using refills, this does not directly translate into their intention to use and, consequently, into actual behaviours. The predominance of factors related to economic benefits, the ease of use of the eco-innovation, or an individual’s public image may indicate a selfish approach by consumers purchasing cosmetic products. From a psychological perspective, this result may suggest the dominance of self-interest over altruistic social impulses and limited belief in values related to sustainable development. This self-centred nature of consumer decisions may be rooted in societal alienation, post-pandemic separation from interpersonal contacts, and growing competition in the professional environment. Focusing on one’s benefits and lack of faith in sustainable development ideas may result from feelings of isolation and a lack of social support. Modern society, dominated by consumerism and individualism, may be less inclined to make an effort for the common good.

Thanks to the moderation analysis, hypothesis H5a can be accepted, and hypotheses H4, H5b, H5c, and H5d can be rejected. We have therefore established that the Polish community we study does not differ from those in countries with a higher GDP in terms of the intentions to use refills and their actual use. Similarly, there are no differences between such relations as intentions of use refills and (1) expected ecological utility, (2) social pressure, and (3) ease of use. Our findings are consistent with ref. [47]. This means that a high GDP does not always lead to the more effective implementation of sustainable development goals in society. However, societies with a lower GDP may be more sensitive to the economic utility of innovations related to sustainable development. This is evidenced by our supported hypothesis H5a. The moderation effect for the construct of expected economic utility and the results obtained for the Polish and foreign groups may have a solid foundation in the country’s economy and history. For the Polish group, the intention to use increases with expected economic utility, while for the foreign group, the intention to use decreases with the growth of this construct. The results obtained for the Polish group were influenced by the inflation level in the country since the pandemic. Rising prices of staple goods have forced Poles to be more rational in their purchases and seek cheaper alternatives, increasingly looking for new, more economical solutions in daily lives. It is also worth noting that consumer behaviour in Poland may be shaped by historical experiences related to the communist period. During the communist era, when product availability was limited and the economy was centrally planned, Poles learned to cope with shortages and seek practical, economical solutions. This resulted in developing habits that may persist today and influence Poles’ purchasing decisions. The result indicates less interest in refill products with higher economic utility for the foreign group, mainly respondents from the United Kingdom and the United States. This behaviour may stem from the belief that affordable products are less luxurious and exclusive. Furthermore, in countries that have not experienced such intense periods of shortages as Poland, consumer purchase decisions may be motivated by other factors, such as convenience, brand prestige, or product’s popularity.

6. Conclusions

In our research, we found answers to the research questions posed in the introduction. We found out which factors determine the use of refills and how these relationships are mediated and moderated. However, our research is not free from certain limitations.

6.1. Research Limitations

Due to the small sample size, the analyses presented in this article should be considered pilot studies. Further research should be conducted with a larger sample to verify our observations—international studies recommend no fewer than 500 respondents. Nevertheless, the measurement scales for the individual constructs we developed can be considered stable and used in studies on a broader group of consumers.

6.2. Further Research

Further analysis of the factors influencing the intention to use refills in the cosmetic industry could focus on a more comprehensive moderation analysis. This would involve using not only a dichotomous variable, but also multivalued variables such as gender, age, residence, and education. Such an analysis would allow us to determine whether these variables moderate the relationship between the constructs and the intention to use, as well as the relationship between the intention to use and actual behaviours.

The international nature of the research facilitated analyses based on the dichotomous variable of cultural background, which divided the sample into two groups, Poles and foreigners, due to the predominant number of responses from Polish respondents. The next research stage could focus on obtaining more responses from foreigners. This would facilitate the identification of quantitatively similar groups of respondents divided by country/region or level of social development. This analysis could yield an in-depth verification of cultural and social dependencies in the context of using refills in the cosmetics industry.

Future research could also take a more holistic approach to the investigated technology, focusing not only on refills, but also on modern refill stations designed for self-refilling product packaging in stores. This solution is not yet popular enough to obtain a satisfactory number of responses for survey research. However, technological advancements, increasing awareness among producers regarding eco-innovation, and the growing number of EU ecological directives may significantly increase the popularity of refill stations in cosmetic stores in the coming years, enabling further research on this topic.