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Article

The Sustainable Fashion Value Proposition of Companies Identifying with the Zero Waste Movement

by
Iwona Zdonek
1,*,
Marzena Podgórska
2 and
Beata Hysa
1
1
Department of Economy and Informatics, Faculty of Organization and Management, Silesian University of Technology, 2A Akademicka, 44-100 Gliwice, Poland
2
Department of Management, Faculty of Organization and Management, Silesian University of Technology, 2A Akademicka, 44-100 Gliwice, Poland
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Sustainability 2025, 17(3), 887; https://doi.org/10.3390/su17030887
Submission received: 19 November 2024 / Revised: 8 January 2025 / Accepted: 21 January 2025 / Published: 22 January 2025
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Open Innovation in Green Products and Performance Research)

Abstract

:
Characterized by inexpensive and readily available products, fast fashion has increased the consumption and disposal of clothing, for which criticism has been significant due to its negative environmental and social impact. Therefore, transitioning to sustainable business models (SBMs) that balance profit with corporate social responsibility (CSR) is critical. This study explores sustainable value propositions in Polish Zero Waste fashion businesses, addressing the gap in research on SBMs. It also employs the theory of organizational paradoxes to examine tensions between profit maximization and CSR. Data were collected from 249 Polish Zero Waste companies listed on mapazerowaste.pl and analyzed through content analysis and statistical methods. Additionally, 21 YouTube videos from 2020 to 2022 were examined to study sustainable fashion promotion. Multiple coding and categorization schemes were used to identify themes, followed by frequency analysis and correspondence analysis. Second-hand clothing emerged as the most common value proposition (120 companies), reflecting consumer trends in resale. The repair sector with cobbler and leather repair services (55 companies) also showed a strong presence, highlighting demand for tailoring and upcycling services Rental services (2 companies) remain niche due to limited consumer acceptance. Promotion efforts on YouTube focus on building awareness of fast fashion’s impacts and teaching sustainable behaviors. Sustainable value propositions, exemplified by Polish Zero Waste businesses, synthesize profit and CSR strategies, addressing organizational paradoxes. These findings inform strategies to balance financial and socio-environmental goals, with implications for policy and practice in advancing sustainable fashion.

1. Introduction

It is well known that fast fashion has a significant negative impact on the natural environment and human well-being. This manifests in several areas, including the extensive use of natural resources (water, energy), pollution (chemicals, microplastics), waste (large amounts of clothing ending up in landfills), and the exploitation of workers in the industry. According to the latest statistics on sustainable fashion [1], the global production of textile waste amounts to 92 million tons annually. However, only 20% of discarded textiles are collected, and 1% of clothing is recycled into new garments.
By offering inexpensive and readily available products, fast fashion has become a dominant business model, leading to a surge in clothing consumption and altering how people purchase and dispose of garments [2,3]. Consequently, transitioning towards (SBMs) that respect the environment and uphold workers’ rights to fair wages and safe working conditions has become crucial for transforming the fashion industry toward sustainable development.
Existing research in sustainable fashion has primarily focused on issues such as eco-design in fashion (e.g., [4,5,6]), post-consumer textile waste recycling (e.g., [7]), and reducing pollution in the textile industry (e.g., [8,9]). Studies have also examined consumer perceptions of sustainable fashion. For instance, research by Ref. [10] explores the consumer orientation of individuals purchasing second-hand clothing across three types of stores: online platforms, consignment stores, and thrift shops. Meanwhile, studies like Ref. [11] investigate sustainable marketing strategies that fashion companies can adopt to promote sustainable practices and policies among consumers. However, there is a scarcity of research on the business models of companies aligned with the Zero Waste movement, particularly in economies of the former Eastern Bloc. Our research aims to address this gap.
Furthermore, our study is grounded in the theory of organizational paradoxes, particularly performance tensions [12]. The dilemma of prioritizing profit maximization versus implementing corporate social responsibility (CSR) principles is classified as an organizational paradox [13], as these elements exhibit increasing interdependence over time. Both profit maximization and CSR are essential and interconnected, making it impossible to prioritize one over the other [13,14]. This interplay is driven by the climate crisis and growing public awareness of the environmental impact of human and business activities. These considerations are particularly relevant to the fashion industry, which has faced intense criticism in global public discourse for its limited integration of social and environmental concerns [6]. By leveraging the theory of organizational paradoxes, we aim to contribute to this theoretical framework. Specifically, the novelty of our research lies in using the concept of a sustainable value proposition to analyze synthesis strategies for resolving tensions within these paradoxes. We argue that the sustainable value proposition represents a synthesis of profit maximization strategies and CSR initiatives.
Due to the diagnosed research gap, a two-part objective was set for this article. First, we determine the types of sustainable value propositions included in the business models of Polish fashion-related companies aligned with the Zero Waste movement and identify the factors influencing these value propositions. Secondly, we investigate how sustainable fashion values are promoted in social media. In order to achieve these goals, the following research questions were posed:
  • RQ1a: What types of sustainable value propositions are offered by Polish fashion companies identifying with the Zero Waste movement?
  • RQ1b: What does the identified value proposition depend on?
  • RQ2: How are sustainable fashion values promoted?
The research was conducted by analyzing information from 249 companies collected in 2022 via the website mapazerowaste.pl, which is dedicated to companies aligned with the Zero Waste movement in Poland. Additional data were gathered from the websites and social media profiles of these companies. To further explore social media content, a review of YouTube videos dedicated to sustainable fashion was conducted. Keywords such as “sustainable fashion”, “ethical fashion”, and “circular fashion” were used in the YouTube search browser. The study, carried out in November 2022, identified 21 videos from the years 2020–2022.
To address RQ1a, content analysis was performed using multiple coding and categorization schemes of the information from mapazerowaste.pl and the websites and social media profiles of the studied companies. The content analysis performed on the mapazerowaste.pl website made it possible to generate additional qualitative data, i.e., categories of sustainable fashion value propositions. Therefore, it became possible to use statistical methods at a further stage of analysis. Thus, frequency analysis mainly using visualization techniques, Chi-square test of independence, and two- and three-dimensional correspondence analysis were applied. Thus, the answer to question RQ1b was sought. For YouTube videos, a content analysis was also conducted. Given the multiple themes addressed in each video, the collected codes and categories were visualized as mind maps. Thus, the answer to question RQ2 was sought.

2. Theoretical Background

2.1. Sustainable Value Proposition

The value proposition is closely linked to the business model, which serves as a conceptual tool to understand how a company operates. In other words, a business model defines the mechanisms that enable organizations to comprehend and articulate how they create and deliver value to their customers. According to Ref. [15], a business model is utilized for analyzing, evaluating, and comparing performance, as well as for management, communication, and innovation. Moreover, it defines how a company formulates its competitive strategy through the products and services it offers, how it generates profit, incurs costs, and differentiates itself from competitors in terms of its value proposition. At a general level, a business model can be divided into three main components: value proposition, value creation and delivery, and value capture.
At the core of any business model lies the value proposition, which is directly related to the value offered by the company through its products and services. The value proposition influences other elements of the business model and acts as a determinant of its transformation. It describes how a company’s offering differs from its competitors and explains why customers choose to purchase from specific companies [16]. The concept of value proposition is perceived differently across various research streams. In the entrepreneurship literature, it is understood as one of the decision-making variables in the domains of strategy, architecture, and the economics of a venture, which establishes a competitive advantage in specific markets [17]. In the strategic literature, the value proposition is described as the value a company creates for its stakeholders [18]. From a marketing perspective, it is defined as the result of marketing or communication activities [19]. Furthermore, the value proposition is commonly regarded as a core concept in business model development [20,21,22].
With increasing pressure for sustainability, business model innovations that transform value propositions and entire business models toward greater sustainability have become a critical issue. SBMs have emerged as tools for integrating environmental, social, and business innovations. These models aim to protect the environment and improve people’s quality of life [23,24] while simultaneously striving for profitability [25]. From the perspective of organizational paradox theory, SBMs place a sustainable value proposition at their center, synthesizing profit maximization strategies with corporate social responsibility. This synthesis is achieved through introducing sustainable products and services as the value proposition [26,27,28]. Such synthesis is facilitated by technological and organizational innovations [29], which involve changes in how organizations create and capture value [15]. Innovations for sustainability not only mitigate the negative impacts of business on the environment and communities but can also create positive effects. They focus on economic profit as well as social and environmental benefits, which, in the context of the climate crisis and resultant regulatory changes and societal expectations, may prove crucial for a company’s future. Consequently, sustainable innovations form the basis for (SBMs), which incorporate concepts such as closed-loop systems [30], natural capitalism [31], social enterprises [32], product–service systems [33], and the Blue Economy [34]. The popularization and business implementation of these ideas require significant educational efforts [35].

2.2. Sustainable Value Proposition in the Fashion Industry

The value proposition in the dominant business model known as fast fashion is far from sustainable. It prioritizes profit maximization over environmental and social costs, leading to high resource consumption, the pollution of water and air, textile waste generation, social injustice, and health risks. Organizational paradox theory describes this situation as the dominance of one element of a paradox—financial performance—over others, such as environmental and social outcomes. Although the fast fashion model has operated for a long time, its adverse effects can no longer be ignored. Consequently, tensions arise between the industry’s pursuit of profit and the need to respect environmental and community rights. This has led to growing expectations for the emergence of sustainable fashion, which involves transforming the fashion industry toward sustainability [36,37].
Sustainable fashion is an approach to clothing production, consumption, and disposal that minimizes environmental harm and seeks to improve the working and living conditions of those involved in the fashion industry. Key elements of sustainable fashion include ethical production, transparency, the use of eco-friendly materials, recycling and upcycling, sustainable resource management, product durability, responsible waste management, and conscious consumption. Sustainable fashion begins with the design phase and extends through production and consumption to the end-of-life stage. The ethical treatment of workers is promoted by ensuring safe working conditions, fair wages, and labor rights. Transparency involves openness about the origin of raw materials, production methods, and working conditions, enabling consumers to make informed choices about ethically produced brands.
Additionally, sustainable fashion uses environmentally friendly materials that consume fewer resources and are less toxic. Examples include organic cotton, linen, hemp, bamboo fabrics, and recycled fibers, such as recycled polyester. Synthetic materials and chemicals that pollute the environment are avoided, favoring natural dyes and processes that minimize chemical usage. As noted in Ref. [38], the introduction of nanotextiles extends fabric longevity and enhances mechanical properties through the incorporation of nanofibers or nanoparticles.
Sustainable fashion also strives to minimize resource use by implementing the Zero Waste concept. This entails utilizing renewable energy, water-efficient technologies, and engaging in textile recycling. Sustainable fashion brands also limit overproduction and seek to reduce single-use packaging. They promote longer product life cycles by offering second-hand items, repair services, and refurbishment options. Emphasizing quality over quantity, sustainable fashion prioritizes the durability of garments, with higher-quality materials and craftsmanship ensuring product longevity, thus reducing the need for frequent purchases [39].
The concept of Zero Waste in fashion was first introduced by Ref. [40]. Zero-Waste Fashion (ZWF) is an innovative approach aimed at reducing the environmental footprint and waste generated in fashion production, focusing on eliminating textile waste throughout the production process, especially during pattern creation [2]. In the fashion industry, waste can be categorized as (1) waste generated during the production process (e.g., chemical residues and material scraps), and (2) waste generated by consumers during consumption [41]. Zero-Waste Fashion Design (ZWFD) practices address the first type of waste by transforming the fashion system and supply chain within a circular economy framework. These practices challenge inefficiencies in clothing design and production, aiming to utilize 100% of the fabric width for single or multiple garments [42]. Regarding the second type of waste, consumer behavior plays a crucial role. As highlighted by Ref. [43], to prevent waste disposal, textile products should be used for as long as possible, repaired when necessary, or repurposed. This is also pointed out by [44], emphasizing that consumers play a significant role in resisting consumerism and contributing to the recycling process.
In Poland, sustainable fashion companies have emerged in response to increasing consumer awareness. For instance, brands like NAGO [45] and KOKOworld [46] focus on minimalism and natural, eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton and linen. Bohema Clothing [47], a vegan brand, produces shoes from alternative materials like pineapple leaf leather, cacti, and mushroom-based materials. Both NAGO and Bohema Clothing manufacture locally in Poland, adhering to fair-trade principles. Their garments and footwear are designed for durability and comfort, emphasizing environmental care throughout the production process and promoting responsible consumption. The slow fashion trend, emphasizing thoughtful purchasing and less frequent acquisitions, also aligns with the sustainable fashion philosophy. Polish designer Pat Guzik [48] embodies this approach by creating clothes with an ecological mindset, using recycled materials and textiles that would otherwise end up in landfills. Her collections are limited editions to prevent overproduction, and her designs are inspired by street culture and art.
Educating consumers is another critical aspect of sustainable fashion, encouraging thoughtful purchasing decisions [49]. A focus on quality, multiple uses, and proper garment care aims to reduce the demand for cheap, disposable clothing and slow the production of fast fashion. Movements like minimalism and capsule wardrobes advocate owning fewer but higher-quality and more versatile garments. Sustainable fashion companies often offer programs for returning old clothing or collaborate with textile recycling organizations, facilitating the responsible disposal of used garments. The growing popularity of second-hand clothing and resale platforms gives garments a second life, reducing the need for new resources in production. Moreover, the clothing exchange market is expanding [50,51,52,53], although barriers to adoption still exist.
In summary, sustainable fashion extends beyond production to embrace a philosophy that promotes conscious attitudes toward clothing among both producers and consumers. It aims to reduce the fashion industry’s negative impact on the environment and society through better production practices, eco-friendly material choices, quality promotion, and responsible consumption. Sustainable fashion emphasizes resource conservation, waste reduction, ethical production, and responsible consumer practices.

3. Methodological Aspects of the Research

3.1. Data Collection Process

The data were collected by applying the “clothing” and “services” filters in the search engine of the mapazerowaste.pl website. This platform is an initiative by the Polish Zero Waste Association, aiming to encourage environmentally friendly actions among Poles through conscious waste reduction efforts. These efforts include local purchasing, buying in smaller quantities, and utilizing the services of artisans. To support these actions, the mapazerowaste.pl website was created to connect companies offering products and services aligned with the Zero Waste movement. This approach yielded results identifying businesses that provide services or products in the area of sustainable fashion. The mapazerowaste.pl website is the first Polish map of companies, created as part of a dedicated project of the Polish Zero Waste Association. Its scope is nationwide, and companies identifying themselves with the Zero Waste movement can register themselves to promote themselves on the map. In this way, the mapazerowaste.pl website provides a relatively comprehensive set of data on companies identifying with the Zero Waste movement. The second important platform from which we obtained data was YouTube. We chose it due to its great popularity and, therefore, the high availability of recordings from interviews and meetings as part of initiatives undertaken to make the fashion industry more sustainable. In our opinion, the choice of this platform ensures acceptable comprehensiveness and representativeness of the data. However, we emphasize the fact that the choice of the mapazerowast.pl website and YouTube is excluded from our research companies and initiatives that do not promote themselves digitally on the Internet.
The study focused on companies located in provincial capitals and the largest district cities. Additionally, to gain a better understanding of the value propositions offered by these businesses, each company’s website or social media profiles were reviewed. The collected results were compiled into a spreadsheet, including the company’s name, geographical data, and value proposition. The gathered data were then analyzed using content analysis, whereby codes were developed inductively, followed by categories related to value proposition, association method, and ownership type. The analyzed data were visualized in graphs representing frequency distributions. Additionally, a Chi-square test of independence was conducted, along with two-factor and multifactor correspondence analysis.

3.2. Research Sample

The research sample comprised 21 YouTube video recordings and 249 cases of companies promoting themselves on the mapazerowaste.pl platform and YouTube. The video recordings included in the study were identified using the keywords “sustainable fashion”, “ethical fashion”, and “circular fashion”. On mapazerowaste.pl, all Polish provinces (voivodeships) were covered, except for Podlaskie voivodeship, where no relevant cases were identified based on the established criteria. The highest number of cases originated from the Mazowieckie voivodeship (60 companies), Wielkopolskie voivodeships (37 companies), and Śląskie voivodeships (28 companies). Most companies (164 companies) were located in provincial capitals. Figure 1 provides a detailed number of cases examined from the website mapazerowaste.pl.

3.3. Content Analysis Details—Coding and Categorizing

The dataset regarding the value proposition of each of the 249 companies was subjected to content analysis. The content was initially coded and then grouped into categories. The details of the analytical process are presented in Figure 2 and Table 1.

4. Research Results

4.1. Promotion on the MapaZeroWaste.pl Portal

4.1.1. Old vs. New Value Propositions

The analysis of data collected via the mapazerowaste.pl portal enabled the identification of ten distinct value propositions offered by service providers aligned with the Zero Waste movement. These value propositions are presented in Figure 3. The most popular value proposition is second-hand clothing available through thrift stores (120 companies), followed by cobbler and leather repair services (55 companies). Both categories represent well-established value propositions, as do other offerings such as tailoring services (18 companies), consignment stores for second-hand clothing (6 companies), and costume rentals (2 companies). In contrast, newer value propositions include shoe and leather restoration services (13 companies), cloth diaper rentals (11 companies), textile upcycling (12 companies), and sewing courses (5 companies).
Notable, a relatively limited number of tailoring services are listed on the mapazerowaste.pl portal, particularly when one considers the long history of such services, dating back at least to the era of shoemaking. One potential explanation for this phenomenon is that many dressmakers lack the digital competencies required to effectively promote their services online. A significant number of tailoring service points on the mapazerowaste.pl portal provided only a telephone number, without offering a profile on social media or a website. This observation is further supported by the correspondence analysis (see Figure 4), which demonstrates a close proximity between tailoring services and the “no” values for the SM and WWW variables. Correspondence analysis is a visualization technique for finding out and displaying the relationship between categories.
It may be beneficial to consider new value propositions for the sewing service market, such as textile upcycling and sewing courses. Textile upcycling involves creating a new product from pre-used textiles, while sewing courses are viewed as handicraft activities for hobbyists who engage in sewing for leisure rather than as a source of income.
The value proposition for shoe and leather goods renovation can play a similar role in the market. However, for shoemaking services, which are similarly characterized by a decline in popularity, the growth potential may be more limited. The restoration of an old shoe and leather goods to their former glory through re-coloring, repairing, and even individualizing (customization) represents a growing market for services that cater to those who eschew the mass-produced footwear and handbags offered by fast fashion brands, instead desiring a unique and individual product.
An analysis of the value proposition in the used clothing commission category also revealed the presence of novel forms, including the rental of space for the display of clothing for resale. A designated space for the sale of clothing or jewelry is typically provided in the form of racks or hangers, where the items are displayed for a specified period. The purchaser is allowed to try on the garments, which is not a possibility when purchasing items from individuals via online platforms that serve a similar function (such as Vinted).
Regarding the value proposition with the lowest popularity, namely costume rentals (2 companies), no alternatives were identified that could potentially invigorate demand in some way. It is conceivable that in the future, the rental of clothing for special occasions or luxury brands may emerge as a popular value proposition.
In contrast, the rental of reusable diapers represents a novel value proposition in the context of rentals. The service offers the opportunity to rent reusable diapers from a variety of manufacturers free of charge for testing purposes. Parents who test diapers from different manufacturers can then proceed to make informed purchases. The objective of such a Pieluchoteka initiative is to encourage the use of reusable nappies for children, which is beneficial for the environment and more cost effective than disposable nappies.

4.1.2. Resale of Second-Hand Clothing, Repairs, and Rentals

The primary sustainable fashion consumption models include second-hand clothing resale, repairs and alterations, and rentals. By assigning value propositions to each model, Figure 5 was generated. This figure indicates that while second-hand clothing resale ranks highest, repairs and alterations exhibit the most diverse value proposition. This includes not only tailoring and shoemaking services but also renovation, upcycling, and sewing courses, positioning it as the second-largest category in the figure.
In contrast, rentals form a much smaller category, highlighting the niche nature of this sustainable fashion consumption model. Although the surveyed enterprises predominantly consist of small and medium-sized individual businesses, some value propositions—such as second-hand stores, shoemaking and leatherwork services, and cloth diaper rentals—include providers operating within networks (see Figure 6). Such affiliations promote growth, which is particularly evident in the first two mentioned categories.
The relationship between business type and value proposition type was confirmed using a Chi-square independence test (Chi-square = 97.67, df = 18, p-value < 0.001) and illustrated via a correspondence analysis chart (Figure 7). This chart shows which value propositions are associated with networks and which are linked to small and medium-sized enterprises.
Figure 8 provides network-specific details. For second-hand clothing, notable networks include VIVE Profit (33 companies) and TekStylowo (32 companies). In the case of shoemaking and leatherwork services, Mister Minit (42 companies), primarily located in shopping malls, is the dominant network. In addition to shoe repair, Mister Minit offers services like key duplication, watch battery replacement, stamp-making, engraving, and smartphone repair. Network-affiliated outlets visibly outnumber independent cobblers and leatherworkers (13 companies). This discrepancy may stem, as with tailoring services, from limited online self-promotion skills among individual practitioners, as independent cobblers often lacked a social media presence or website, providing only a phone number. Reusable diaper rentals are also organized in networks, with one network identified as Pieluchoteka.

4.2. Promotion on YouTube

4.2.1. The Present and Future of Fast Fashion

An analysis of the reviewed videos reveals that the fashion industry, in planning its transformation, addresses key criticisms of fast fashion (see Figure 9). These criticisms include the high carbon and water footprint of production processes, the harmful chemicals used in manufacturing, and the exploitation of labor. The industry also acknowledges the vast amounts of waste from overconsumption (13 kg per capita globally), the destruction of unsold garments to control supply, and excessive packaging, especially in the context of e-commerce. Fast fashion is commonly characterized by low-cost, low-quality production with high markup (500–800% of production costs), sold to consumers at accessible prices.
The main themes related to fast fashion’s shift toward sustainability primarily involve defining sustainable fashion and assessing the impact of major fast fashion brands on several aspects of sustainability (see Figure 10). As the process of defining sustainable fashion is ongoing, various metrics are being developed to quantitatively or qualitatively measure sustainability in fashion. These include sustainability rankings, certifications, and indices, as well as digital applications to assess the material impact of a brand’s portfolio, such as the Global Fiber Impact Explorer. The Digital Product Passport aims to quantify the impact of the rest of the value chain elements on people and the environment.
Large brands influence fast fashion transformation in two main ways. The first is the promotion of sustainable textile materials. As market leaders, large brands play a crucial role in making more sustainable textile options available not only to themselves but also to smaller brands. The second aspect is their influence on encouraging sustainable consumer behaviors, such as reselling goods in the second-hand market, purchasing pre-owned items, and choosing products made from environmentally friendly materials. Thus, large brands help popularize more new SBMs. However, consumers also influence brands by “voting with their wallets”, pressuring fast fashion brands to introduce more sustainable products. Notably, as the definition of sustainable fashion evolves, both brands and consumers are adapting to these new behaviors.

4.2.2. Technologies for Sustainable Fashion

Three primary topics emerged regarding technology’s role in sustainable fashion: recycling technologies, digital technologies, and sustainable production technologies.
Recycling technology (Figure 11) is currently dominated by downcycling, which produces lower-quality products compared to the originals. For instance, cotton is repurposed into cleaning rags, sweaters into rugs, and other materials are converted into “fiber flock” used for appliance insulation. Textiles can also be processed into alternative fuels for cement production. Products resulting from downcycling are part of a cascading process, with some materials even feeding back into the textile industry, such as creating fabrics from plastic bottles or ocean-recovered plastics.
Another recycling method highlighted is upcycling, where new garments are created from second-hand clothing. Upcycling is considered an art form, and the resulting items are often more expensive than new clothes due to the creative labor involved. Scaling upcycling remains a significant challenge, though shirts, jacket fringes, and workwear were identified as potentially scalable upcycled products in the reviewed materials.
Several challenges associated with current recycling processes were also addressed, primarily (1) issues with blended fabrics (e.g., cotton with elastane), which complicate recycling, and (2) the lack of textile waste separation.
The discussion on digital technologies for sustainable fashion has focused on solutions that provide product information, such as the Digital Product Passport. This tool includes a set of data on product identification, composition, and origin, helping consumers make more sustainable purchase decisions. These decisions are further supported by virtual clothing and digital fitting technologies, which aim to reduce excessive product returns due to poor fit. Technologies like artificial intelligence and enterprise resource planning (ERP) systems are expected to provide data for measuring carbon footprints and support value chain management (Figure 12). Sustainable production technologies encompass eco-friendly design practices, including biodesign and speculative design, which incorporate waste minimization into the design phase. Educating a new generation of designers to adopt circular design principles is essential. Ideas were also presented for integrating the fashion and food industries, with technologies that produce textiles from food by-products, such as apples, grapes, and pineapple leaves.
The food industry also has significant potential in producing dyes. Expanding the use of plant-based materials could enable the fashion industry to produce biodegradable waste. Other new natural materials, such as cupro, Tencel, modal, hemp, and bamboo, also offer biodegradability. In addition to reducing the environmental impact of textile production, reducing the adverse effects on people is also vital. New technologies—such as the laser processing of jeans, 3D weaving, and the automation of hazardous tasks traditionally performed manually—are essential. Transparency in supply chains and the need for new sustainable production technologies are significant challenges for the industry (see Figure 13).

4.2.3. Legal Regulations

For fast fashion transformation to be feasible, regulatory changes are necessary. These regulations should encourage a shift from a linear model to a circular economy. Figure 14 illustrates the most anticipated regulations in the fashion industry, aligning with recycling technology concerns. Expected regulations include eco-design requirements, such as designing for recyclability through mono materials. Other anticipated measures include intellectual property rights for upcycled products and material composition guidelines for patchwork items. Legal obligations for selective textile waste collection and increasing the market share of recycled products are also expected. In terms of circular economy implementation, solutions are anticipated for post-sale services, including repair and customization options. Additionally, a system of subsidies is expected to level the playing field for small fashion companies.

4.2.4. The Consumer in the World of Sustainable Fashion

The topic of sustainable fashion consumption (Figure 15) has been extensively discussed. Issues addressed include both reducing excessive consumerism of fashion products and analyzing brands categorized as sustainable. Promoting values related to human well-being and environmental protection is considered the foundation for reducing consumerism. This approach fosters sustainable consumption behaviors, such as creating a capsule wardrobe (minimalist shopping), and using second-hand clothing—whether through purchasing, reselling, or renting. The issue of excessive packaging, particularly in e-commerce, was also highlighted, with reusable returnable packaging proposed as a solution.
Given that much of the collected material focused on sustainable brands, several characteristics of such brands were identified. These are often local brands producing high-quality products made from natural materials. They claim to respect the rights of people and animals, often substantiated with appropriate certifications. These brands also feature transparent supply chains, including clarity about the components of product pricing. Their collections are typically small, consisting of as few as 100 pieces, resulting in limited inventory. Consequently, the absence of overproduction eliminates the need for traditional sales. Instead, sales of prototype and garage samples are more common.

5. Discussion

The research conducted among companies in the fashion industry that identify with the concept of Zero Waste allowed for the identification of the most frequently offered value propositions of sustainable fashion. The leading value proposition, by a significant margin, is second-hand clothing available in thrift stores. This finding aligns with the current trend of clothing resale observed by other researchers [50]. Comparing these results with consumer studies [50], it is notable that consumers most frequently declared intentions and behaviors related to donating their unused clothing, followed by purchasing second-hand clothing. For companies operating in the second-hand market, this indicates a broad availability of used clothing originating from the Polish market.
It is also worth comparing the consumer acceptance of reselling their clothing [54] with the findings from the mapazerowaste.pl service. This comparison highlights a high level of acceptance among consumers but a relatively low number of second-hand clothing consignment stores. This discrepancy is likely due to the popularity of online peer-to-peer clothing resale platforms (e.g., Vinted), which appear to hinder the growth of traditional consignment shops. Referring to the theory of organizational paradoxes, one can identify the details of the synthesis strategy exemplified in the value proposition based on second-hand clothing. Selling such clothing undeniably generates profit, as evidenced by the significant number of companies offering this value proposition in the Polish market. Promising growth estimates for the second-hand clothing market suggest not only current financial benefits but also a positive long-term outlook.
On the other hand, clothing that has been manufactured and returned to circulation as a used product saves resources and labor required in production processes. It also reduces harmful emissions to water and air and decreases textile waste, as noted by other researchers (e.g., [7,55,56]). Simultaneously, it creates jobs related to sorting and reintroducing clothing to consumers. Thus, a positive environmental and social outcome can be observed. The business model centered on second-hand clothing captures a triple bottom line, consistent with the Triple Bottom Line (TBL) framework, demonstrating a synthesis between these outcomes.
Another prominent value proposition identified in the research pertains to the repair sector, encompassing clothing, footwear, and fashion accessories. The value proposition in this sector is highly diverse, including tailoring, cobbling, restoration, textile upcycling, and sewing courses. These findings suggest that the barriers identified in the international literature for the repair sector [57,58,59] do not significantly impede its functionality in Poland. The largest category of value propositions belongs to leatherworking and cobbling services. This prevalence is linked to the fact that some companies in this sector are part of networks offering not only footwear-related services but also unrelated services. This indicates that networking may facilitate the growth of the repair services sector.
The large number of companies operating in the repair sector supports the popularization of their value propositions among consumers. Comparing the findings with consumer studies [54], it is evident that Polish consumers also express a strong acceptance of repair services for clothing products. Analyzing the repair sector’s value proposition through the lens of organizational paradoxes highlights how the synthesis strategy for paradoxical elements is implemented. The social–environmental outcome arises first from diverting clothing products from landfills or incinerators and second from creating jobs for repair workers. The financial outcome, related to profits, is driven by consumer demand for such services. The presence of repair businesses in the Polish market demonstrates their ability to generate profit from these services. Profit maximization could be achieved through increased collaboration among repair providers and promotion, particularly through online platforms, which would also raise consumer awareness, as emphasized in other studies [44].
The value proposition centered on textile rental services emerged as the most niche offering. The results align with those presented by other researchers [51,52,53]. Comparing these findings with studies on Polish consumers [60], it becomes evident why clothing rentals remain uncommon. The limited availability of such services significantly restricts consumer behavior in this area. This suggests that the barriers to the rental sector identified by other researchers [53,61,62,63,64,65] also effectively constrain its development in Poland. A potential remedy may lie in the promotional activities related to textile rentals. One notable example of such promotion was found in the case of one of the most unconventional value propositions—renting reusable diapers. Although this promotion primarily encouraged the purchase of reusable diapers, it offered consumers an opportunity to try them for free, aiming to reduce reliance on disposable diapers. Nevertheless, participating in the rental process could help overcome consumer reluctance toward such behaviors.
The triple-bottom-line synthesis strategy for the rental value proposition is not entirely successful. The environmental outcome is associated with resource savings achieved by increasing the number of users sharing a single textile product. However, the financial and social outcomes remain uncertain, as evidenced by the very small number of companies offering clothing and textile rental services. Current Polish consumer attitudes do not generate significant demand for such services. The case of reusable diaper rentals suggests that financial success might be achieved by combining rental services with the sale of sustainable products. However, educating Polish society about the acceptance of rental-based value propositions is crucial.
The results of our research on the promotion of values associated with sustainable fashion revealed numerous efforts in Poland to increase awareness and acceptance of sustainable clothing products while fostering disapproval of fast fashion. An analysis of YouTube videos demonstrated that the shared knowledge primarily focuses on the environmental and human costs of fast fashion. Knowledge shapes attitudes, which, in turn, influence disapproval towards current production and consumption models and foster the acceptance of new sustainable behaviors [35]. Shared knowledge also includes updates on the progress of the fashion industry’s transformation toward sustainability (e.g., recycling methods, new sustainable materials, and digital technologies supporting this transition). Awareness that actions are being taken to mitigate human impact is encouraging and counteracts pessimism about the world’s future and eco-anxiety [24]. This fosters positive attitudes toward sustainable fashion, potentially motivating action and influencing market behaviors [23].
In addition to knowledge, the analyzed videos featured content aimed at enhancing consumer skills related to sustainable behaviors. Examples include instructions on distinguishing fast fashion products from sustainable fashion brands and finding satisfaction in activities beyond shopping.
Global research on business models in the fashion industry, conducted by scholars such as Todeschini et al. [66], Kozlowski et al. (2015) [67], and Lueg et al. (2013) [68], provides insights similar to those presented in this article. For example, Todeschini et al. (2017) [66], in their analysis of Brazilian and Italian fashion companies, identified five socio-economic and cultural trends driving the development of sustainable and innovative business models: consumer awareness, circular economy, corporate social responsibility, shared economy, and technological innovation. These trends are also evident in our research, particularly in relation to consumer awareness, circular economy, and corporate social responsibility. When comparing our findings to global research, it is noteworthy that the repair sector for clothing, footwear, and fashion accessories in Poland appears relatively attractive. In contrast, international studies [3,4,5] highlight barriers faced by this sector. However, the sector of textile product rentals remains niche both in Poland and globally [6,7,8]. Furthermore, efforts to raise consumer awareness about sustainable fashion products are intensifying in Poland, reflecting global trends (e.g., [69,70,71]). These efforts aim to discourage fast fashion and bridge the gap between consumers’ attitudes and their actual behaviors in everyday life.

6. Conclusions

The considerations presented in this article provide insights into the topic of sustainable value propositions in the fashion industry, framed within the context of the organizational paradox of prioritizing the maximization of profit alongside achieving the goals of corporate social responsibility (CSR). They also reveal which value propositions are offered by Polish fashion companies identifying with the Zero Waste movement and which of these are most frequently provided. A summary of our findings on sustainable value propositions in the fashion industry is presented in Figure 16.
Furthermore, our findings illustrate how sustainable values are promoted and how knowledge and skills related to sustainable consumption of clothing products are popularized. As a conclusion to our study, the theoretical and practical implications, as well as limitations and directions for future research, are discussed below.

6.1. Theoretical and Practical Implications

The considerations presented in this article contribute to the theory of organizational paradoxes related to outcomes by demonstrating that the concept of a sustainable value proposition represents a synthesis of profit maximization strategies and corporate social responsibility strategies. The sustainable value propositions identified in the fashion industry exemplify such a synthesis. On the one hand, these value propositions enable the achievement of a fundamental organizational goal—profit generation. On the other hand, they foster trust in the company through CSR activities, which can serve as a strong driver of growth. Transparent and voluntary practices aimed at Zero Waste are increasingly expected by society and allow organizations to meet the multifaceted demands of various stakeholder groups. Consequently, they facilitate not only the achievement of primary objectives but also the realization of positive social and environmental outcomes.
Accordingly, the article also makes a theoretical contribution to the development of management science in the context of sustainable management in the fashion industry by expanding knowledge in the field of business models of companies identifying with the Zero Waste movement. This is because the broad analysis of the value propositions offered by the companies studied provides insight into the development of particular value propositions among former Eastern Bloc companies.
In terms of practical implications, the sustainable value propositions identified in this article may assist fashion companies aligning with the Zero Waste movement in building strategies that mitigate tensions between financial, social, and environmental outcomes. This is especially relevant as the fashion industry faces increasing pressure due to its ongoing transformation. Moreover, our findings on how sustainable fashion values are promoted highlight the types of content present in the public domain, potentially identifying important areas of content that are currently lacking. Such insights could be valuable for organizations aiming to enhance societal awareness of sustainable consumption in the clothing sector. The conducted research also indicates that for certain value propositions, such as shoemaking or tailoring services, it is possible to rejuvenate demand for these services. This may enable companies offering such services to adapt to current trends and align with the Zero Waste movement. On the other hand, the findings also highlight services that are less popular and for which it may be challenging to refresh demand (e.g., clothing rental services). Another recommendation is the formation of networks among companies, as this could foster their development and strengthen their position in the sustainable fashion industry market. Finally, it is essential for companies seeking to advance in the direction of Zero Waste to engage in self-promotion efforts on the Internet. This is a critical action for growth in the analyzed area. Companies could achieve this through individual training sessions or by outsourcing promotional activities.

6.2. Limitations and Directions for Future Research

Like any study, the present work also has inherent limitations. The most significant limitation appears to be its focus on specific platforms, namely MapaZeroWaste and YouTube. It can be assumed that not all fashion companies have registered with a site dedicated to the Zero Waste concept. However, this limitation is expected to diminish over time as the Zero Waste concept becomes more widespread and the transformation of the fashion industry accelerates. Repeating this research in a few years would be beneficial. A similar limitation applies to the focus on YouTube. We acknowledge that additional relevant content may exist on other social media platforms. Exploring these platforms could be a fruitful direction for further research into the promotion of sustainable fashion values. In addition to qualitative research, quantitative studies on the offering and acceptance of sustainable value propositions in the fashion industry would also be worthwhile.

Author Contributions

Conceptualization, I.Z., M.P. and B.H.; methodology, I.Z.; formal analysis, I.Z.; investigation, I.Z.; data curation, I.Z.; writing—original draft preparation, I.Z., M.P. and B.H.; writing—review and editing, I.Z., M.P. and B.H.; visualization, I.Z.; supervision, I.Z. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

This research received no external funding.

Institutional Review Board Statement

Not applicable.

Informed Consent Statement

Not applicable.

Data Availability Statement

The original contributions presented in this study are included in the article. Further inquiries can be directed to the corresponding author.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflicts of interest.

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Figure 1. The number of surveyed companies by voivodeship (n = 249). Note: Poland is divided into territorial units called voivodeships. Source: own work.
Figure 1. The number of surveyed companies by voivodeship (n = 249). Note: Poland is divided into territorial units called voivodeships. Source: own work.
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Figure 2. Content analysis stages of collected information 249 companies and 21 video recordings). Source: own work.
Figure 2. Content analysis stages of collected information 249 companies and 21 video recordings). Source: own work.
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Figure 3. Sustainable fashion value proposition of companies associated with Zero Waste (n = 249). Source: own work.
Figure 3. Sustainable fashion value proposition of companies associated with Zero Waste (n = 249). Source: own work.
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Figure 4. Correspondence analysis for variables: value proposition type, social media, and website (n = 249). Source: own work.
Figure 4. Correspondence analysis for variables: value proposition type, social media, and website (n = 249). Source: own work.
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Figure 5. Value propositions by main sustainable fashion consumption models (n = 249). Source: own work.
Figure 5. Value propositions by main sustainable fashion consumption models (n = 249). Source: own work.
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Figure 6. Value proposition by type of activity (n = 249). Note: SMEs—small and medium enterprises. Source: own work.
Figure 6. Value proposition by type of activity (n = 249). Note: SMEs—small and medium enterprises. Source: own work.
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Figure 7. Correspondence analysis for the variables value proposition type and activity type (n = 249). Note: χ2 = 97.67, df = 18, p-value < 0.001. Source: own work.
Figure 7. Correspondence analysis for the variables value proposition type and activity type (n = 249). Note: χ2 = 97.67, df = 18, p-value < 0.001. Source: own work.
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Figure 8. Value proposition by network name (n = 249). Source: own work.
Figure 8. Value proposition by network name (n = 249). Source: own work.
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Figure 9. The topics addressed in the fast fashion category. Source: own work.
Figure 9. The topics addressed in the fast fashion category. Source: own work.
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Figure 10. The topics covered in the category of fast fashion transformation towards sustainability. Source: own study.
Figure 10. The topics covered in the category of fast fashion transformation towards sustainability. Source: own study.
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Figure 11. The topics covered in the textile recycling category. Source: own study.
Figure 11. The topics covered in the textile recycling category. Source: own study.
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Figure 12. The topics covered in the digital technology category for equalized fashion. Source: own study.
Figure 12. The topics covered in the digital technology category for equalized fashion. Source: own study.
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Figure 13. The topics covered in the category of equalized production. Source: own study.
Figure 13. The topics covered in the category of equalized production. Source: own study.
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Figure 14. The topics covered in the regulatory category. Source: own study.
Figure 14. The topics covered in the regulatory category. Source: own study.
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Figure 15. Topics addressed in terms of equalized consumption. Source: own study.
Figure 15. Topics addressed in terms of equalized consumption. Source: own study.
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Figure 16. Sustainable value proposition in the fashion industry—summary. Source: own study.
Figure 16. Sustainable value proposition in the fashion industry—summary. Source: own study.
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Table 1. Content analysis—codes and the value proposition categories derived from them (n = 249).
Table 1. Content analysis—codes and the value proposition categories derived from them (n = 249).
CodeCategory
umbrella repairOther
sunglasses from plastic waste
craft jewelry making
hat sewing
sewing new linen clothing
sewing cycling clothing
clothing exchange center
buying and selling used clothingSecond-hand clothing shop
sewing coursesSewing courses
renovation and customizationShoe and leather goods renovation
renovation and customization, custom shoes
donating and selling used clothingSecond hand
clothing by weight
large-scale sale of used clothing
sale of used clothing and outlet
sale of used clothing from returns and surplus production
sale of selected used clothing
sewing clothing and accessories from recycled materialsTextile upcycling
sewing clothing from recycled materials
sewing clothing from textile waste
sewing bags from banners
sewing bags from used materials
sewing from tarpaulin bags
creating clothing from recycled materials
upcycling wool products
tailoring services and alterationsTailoring services
tailoring
shoe repairs and other large-scale servicesShoemaking and leatherworking services
small-scale shoemaking and leatherworking services
costume rentalCostume rental
small-scale diaper rentalDiaper rental
large-scale diaper rental
Source: own work.
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Zdonek, I.; Podgórska, M.; Hysa, B. The Sustainable Fashion Value Proposition of Companies Identifying with the Zero Waste Movement. Sustainability 2025, 17, 887. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17030887

AMA Style

Zdonek I, Podgórska M, Hysa B. The Sustainable Fashion Value Proposition of Companies Identifying with the Zero Waste Movement. Sustainability. 2025; 17(3):887. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17030887

Chicago/Turabian Style

Zdonek, Iwona, Marzena Podgórska, and Beata Hysa. 2025. "The Sustainable Fashion Value Proposition of Companies Identifying with the Zero Waste Movement" Sustainability 17, no. 3: 887. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17030887

APA Style

Zdonek, I., Podgórska, M., & Hysa, B. (2025). The Sustainable Fashion Value Proposition of Companies Identifying with the Zero Waste Movement. Sustainability, 17(3), 887. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17030887

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