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Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves
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Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves

A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312). This special issue belongs to the section "Physical Oceanography".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (25 July 2024) | Viewed by 15695

Special Issue Editor

Prof. Dr. Mustafa M. Aral

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta, GA 30332, USA
Interests: computational methods; stochastic methods; large scale environmental systems modeling; climate change and sea level rise; water and health systems policy; adaptation and mitigation; ecosystem restoration and resilience analysis; sensors and critical infrastructure protection and management; transborder water assessments and management; population dynamics
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Coastal and ocean waves are an important but not fully understood hazard of major concern to coastal communities, harbor safety and operation, and safety of shipping and maritime industry at open seas. However, little is known about their formation and propagation, their role in structure and harbor wave resonance, frequency of their occurrence, and their damage assessment. As is well known, experimental and computational methods and data analysis procedures are at the center of many engineering and scientific fields. As such, these methods are also at the center stage of ocean wave and coastal hazard analysis. With the advances achieved in computers, hardware, software, and sensor technologies, the use of these methods is gaining increasing importance in the analysis and evaluation of extraordinarily complex problems in ocean engineering and science. These are all important topics that will be addressed in this Special Issue. With this observation in mind, the purpose of the “Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves” Special Issue in the Journal of Marine Sciences and Engineering is to create a forum of exchange among the diverse fields of ocean engineering research and applications that seek fundamental contributions to this field of science and engineering.  

Prof. Dr. Mustafa M. Aral
Guest Editor

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Keywords

  • experimental methods
  • computational methods
  • data analysis
  • numerical methods
  • stochastic methods
  • ocean engineering
  • water waves
  • rouge waves
  • coastal applications
  • harbor
  • engineered system applications

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Published Papers (6 papers)

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Research

23 pages, 10377 KiB  
Article
Ocean Surface Gravity Wave Evolution during Three Along-Shelf Propagating Tropical Cyclones: Model’s Performance of Wind-Sea and Swell
by Chu-En Hsu, Christie A. Hegermiller, John C. Warner and Maitane Olabarrieta
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(6), 1152; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11061152 - 31 May 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2299
Abstract
Despite recent advancements in ocean–wave observations, how a tropical cyclone’s (TC’s) track, intensity, and translation speed affect the directional wave spectra evolution is poorly understood. Given the scarcity of available wave spectral observations during TCs, there are few studies about the performance of [...] Read more.
Despite recent advancements in ocean–wave observations, how a tropical cyclone’s (TC’s) track, intensity, and translation speed affect the directional wave spectra evolution is poorly understood. Given the scarcity of available wave spectral observations during TCs, there are few studies about the performance of spectral wave models, such as Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN), under various TC scenarios. We combined the National Data Buoy Center observations and numerical model hindcasts to determine the linkages between wave spectrum evolution and TC characteristics during hurricanes Matthew 2016, Dorian 2019, and Isaias 2020. Five phases were identified in the wave spectrogram based on the normalized distance to the TC, the sea–swell separation frequency, and the peak wave frequency, indicating how the wave evolution relates to TC characteristics. The wave spectral structure and SWAN model’s performance for wave energy distribution within different phases were identified. The TC intensity and its normalized distance to a buoy were the dominant factors in the energy levels and peak wave frequencies. The TC heading direction and translation speed were more likely to impact the durations of the phases. TC translation speeds also influenced the model’s performance on swell energy. The knowledge gained in this work paves the way for improving model’s performance during severe weather events. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves)
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19 pages, 12995 KiB  
Article
A Multidecadal Assessment of Mean and Extreme Wave Climate Observed at Buoys off the U.S. East, Gulf, and West Coasts
by Mohammad Jamous and Reza Marsooli
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(5), 916; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11050916 - 25 Apr 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 1637
Abstract
The current understanding of wind-generated wave climate from buoy-based measurements is mainly focused on a limited number of locations and has not been updated to include measurements in the past decade. This study quantifies wave climate variability and change during the historical period [...] Read more.
The current understanding of wind-generated wave climate from buoy-based measurements is mainly focused on a limited number of locations and has not been updated to include measurements in the past decade. This study quantifies wave climate variability and change during the historical period of 1980–2020 through a comprehensive analysis of wave height measurements at 43 buoys off the U.S. Pacific, Atlantic, and Gulf of Mexico Coasts. Variabilities and trends in the annual and monthly mean and 95th percentile significant wave heights (SWH) and the number of extreme wave events are quantified for the cold and warm seasons. We calculate the SWH long-term and decadal trends, and temporal variabilities using the ordinary least squares regression and coefficient of variation, respectively. Independent extreme wave events are identified using a method based on the peaks-over-threshold and the autocorrelation function, which accounts for the geographical variation in the timespan between independent extreme events. Results show that the warm season’s interannual variabilities in monthly and annual SWH are smaller in the Pacific while larger in the Atlantic and Gulf, with the largest variabilities observed at buoys in the Gulf and lower latitudes of the Atlantic. Strong significant alternating decadal trends in SWH are found in the Pacific and Atlantic regions. Buoys in the Atlantic and Gulf regions have experienced higher numbers of extreme wave events (anomalies) compared to the Pacific region. In general, the long-term trend in the number of extreme events during the cold season is positive at buoys located at higher latitudes but negative at lower latitudes. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves)
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15 pages, 5138 KiB  
Article
Registration of Nonlinear Hydrophysical Disturbances—Rogue Waves in Full-Scale Conditions
by Grigory Dolgikh, Stanislav Dolgikh, Vladimir Chupin, Vladimir Ovcharenko, Vyacheslav Shvets and Sergey Yakovenko
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(12), 1997; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10121997 - 15 Dec 2022
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 1562
Abstract
In the paper, we discuss the results of processing and analysis of field data obtained from a laser-based supersensitive detector during the registering of hydrosphere pressure variations on the seabed at various points of the Sea of Japan shelf. The main focus is [...] Read more.
In the paper, we discuss the results of processing and analysis of field data obtained from a laser-based supersensitive detector during the registering of hydrosphere pressure variations on the seabed at various points of the Sea of Japan shelf. The main focus is the study of physical mechanisms of the occurrence of nonlinear hydrophysical disturbances in the range of gravity and infragravity sea waves classed as rogue waves, the amplitudes of which are more than twice the amplitudes of the bordering signals in this range of periods. It has been established that in the range of gravity/wind sea wave periods (2–20 s), similar disturbances were registered by the supersensitive detector of hydrosphere pressure variations. The paper explains the appearance of such nonlinear disturbances. In addition to single large-amplitude nonlinear perturbations, classical nonlinear disturbances, related to the “one sister”, “two sisters”, and “three sisters” rogue wave types were discovered. Their occurrence is associated with the interaction of gravity and infragravity sea waves in the zone of the recording equipment location. In the course of spectral processing of the obtained field data, the main modes of wind waves and infragravity sea waves responsible for the formation of the observed rogue waves were identified. The intermodal energy transfer in the observed wave packet resembles in its behavior the modified Fermi–Past–Ulam recurrence. In the lower frequency range, non-linear hydrophysical disturbances of the “sea hole” and “crest” type were found; the origin of which is associated with atmospheric processes. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves)
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17 pages, 4574 KiB  
Article
Normalized Radar Scattering Section Simulation and Numerical Calculation of Freak Wave
by Gengkun Wu, Bin Liu and Lichen Han
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(11), 1631; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10111631 - 2 Nov 2022
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1796
Abstract
The improved phase modulation method is used to numerically simulate a two-dimensional freak wave. While generating freak waves at specific positions, the spectral structure of the target spectrum can also be maintained, and the statistical characteristics of wave sequences can be satisfied. The [...] Read more.
The improved phase modulation method is used to numerically simulate a two-dimensional freak wave. While generating freak waves at specific positions, the spectral structure of the target spectrum can also be maintained, and the statistical characteristics of wave sequences can be satisfied. The numerical simulation process is discussed in detail from the perspective of different wave spectra and other parameters, the priority applicability of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSAWP) spectrum is determined, and the accuracy of the numerical simulation is significantly improved. At the same time, the electromagnetic scattering characteristics of freak waves are studied based on the two-scale method (TSM). The calculation results of normalized radar cross section (NRCS) under different wave spectra and different polarization modes are compared, and the effects of wind speed, incident frequency, and incident angle on the calculation results are discussed. Experiments show that the NRCS of the freak wave is obviously lower than the background wave, and the calculation of the NRCS is relatively simple. This provides an effective reference for radar detection of freak waves in offshore engineering. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves)
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30 pages, 9860 KiB  
Article
Spatio-Temporal Trend of Past and Future Extreme Wave Climates in the Gulf of Guinea Driven by Climate Change
by Adeola M. Dahunsi, Frédéric Bonou, Olusegun A. Dada and Ezinvi Baloïtcha
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(11), 1581; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10111581 - 26 Oct 2022
Cited by 11 | Viewed by 2478
Abstract
This study assessed the extremes of wave conditions for past (1979–2005) and future (2026–2045 and 2081–2100) time slices in the Gulf of Guinea (GoG). The ensemble produced from eight General Circulation Models under different Representative Concentration Pathway (RCP) emission scenarios (RCP4.5 and RCP8.5) [...] Read more.
This study assessed the extremes of wave conditions for past (1979–2005) and future (2026–2045 and 2081–2100) time slices in the Gulf of Guinea (GoG). The ensemble produced from eight General Circulation Models under different Representative Concentration Pathway (RCP) emission scenarios (RCP4.5 and RCP8.5) was subjected to linear regression analysis and Mann–Kendal test for their trends and significance, respectively. Results showed an increase in the extreme of significant wave height (Hs) and mean wave period (Tm) between 1979–2005, 2026–2045, and 2081–2100 with few exceptions. The average values of annual and seasonal Hs and Tm range from 1.26–1.62 m and 10.37 s–10.86 s, respectively, for 1979–2005. These Hs values are projected to increase by 0.1 m (0.05 m) to 1.72 m (1.67 m) and the Tm will increase by 0.29 s (0.24 s) to 11.15 s (11.10 s) by the end of the century (mid-century) time slices, respectively. The mean wave direction (Dm) (201.89°–206.27°) showed an anticlockwise shift (−29.2 × 10−3 degrees per year) for 1979–2005 which is projected to become more southwesterly with an increase up to 2.2° (0.5°) by end (mid) century in 2100 (2045), respectively. Future work will be on the impacts of changing wave on longshore sediment transport along the GoG. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves)
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15 pages, 4020 KiB  
Article
Irish Wave Data—Rogues, Analysis and Continuity
by Méabh Nic Guidhir, Donal Kennedy, Alan Berry, Barry Christy, Colm Clancy, Columba Creamer, Guy Westbrook and Sarah Gallagher
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(8), 1073; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10081073 - 5 Aug 2022
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 4100
Abstract
The Marine Institute of Ireland operates a network of weather buoys around Ireland. A wave of 32.3 m height (crest–trough) was recorded by one of these buoys, the M6 buoy, off the coast of Ireland in October 2020. In this paper, the technological [...] Read more.
The Marine Institute of Ireland operates a network of weather buoys around Ireland. A wave of 32.3 m height (crest–trough) was recorded by one of these buoys, the M6 buoy, off the coast of Ireland in October 2020. In this paper, the technological evolution of this network is explored, with a particular emphasis on this extremely high wave. Raw data and bulk parameters collected during the event are presented, and the wider met-ocean context is outlined. In addition, wave data across the buoy deployment period from dual wave sensors installed on the buoy are analysed. Differences in calculation methods are discussed, rogue incidence rates are calculated, and the sensors are found to be generally in good agreement for key sea state parameters. Considerations specific to this network of buoys are described, including recent advances in technology that may affect continuity of historic records. Wave data from the buoys are found to be robust; the importance of keeping technological changes in mind and using the full raw dataset for analysis purposes are highlighted. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves)
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