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Large-scale Coastal Behavior
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Large-scale Coastal Behavior

A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312). This special issue belongs to the section "Geological Oceanography".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 June 2019) | Viewed by 26075

Special Issue Editor

Prof. Dr. Thomas Lippmann

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Earth Sciences, Center for Coastal & Ocean Mapping, University of New Hampshire, Durham, NH 03824, USA
Interests: large scale coastal behavior; inlet and estuarine dynamics; beach processes and sediment transport; hydrographic surveying in shallow; hazardous waters; effects of sea level rise and storm surge on estuarine currents and water levels

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Ocean hydrodynamic processes (e.g., tides, waves, and currents) and atmospheric forces (e.g., barometric pressure, winds, and precipitation) drive sediment transport and the evolution of coastal landforms (e.g., sand bars, shoals, beaches, dunes, cliffs, barrier islands, and inlets). Although these processes have been well-studied at generally fine spatial and temporal scales (or order meters to a few kilometers and hours to weeks), feedbacks between the forcing and response are highly nonlinear and lead to evolutionary patterns that extend to much larger scales not easily predicted or well understood. The advent over the past few decades of vastly improved computing resources, observational techniques, and novel analytical formulations have allowed for more quantitative examination of coastal change at these large scales. The evolution of coastal landforms on long time (months to decades) and length (10–1000 kilometers) scales has come to be known as Large Scale Coastal Behavior (LSCB). The consequences of LSCB are important to the resiliency of coastal communities and ecosystems, particularly in light of predicted changes to sea level and storm intensity and frequency forecasted for the next century. The focus of this Special Issue is on improved understanding of LSCB, with an emphasis on implications for coastal vulnerability and adaptation. Original contributions may be of an observational, numerical, or analytical nature, and may cross boundaries between physical and social science and economic assessments. Topics of interest include, but are not limited to:

Large scale nearshore sand bar and shoal evolution

Shoreline change and hot-spots

Coastal landform response to extreme storms

Impacts from sea level rise and climatic influences

Nonlinear sediment transport dynamics manifesting at large time and length scales

Connections between small and large-scale processes

Partitioning aeolian and oceanic processes

Influences of continental shelf processes on LSCB

Influences of LSCB on coastal vulnerability, resiliency, and adaptation

Influences of sediment supply on LSCB

Anthropogenic influences and engineering concepts for mitigating negative LSCB changes

Prof. Dr. Thomas Lippmann
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

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Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • Large Scale Coastal Behavior (LSCB)
  • Shoreline change
  • Extreme storms
  • Sea level rise
  • Nonlinear sediment dynamics and feedback
  • Coastal vulnerability, resiliency, and adaptation
  • Partitioning Aeolian and oceanic processes
  • Anthropogenic influences on LSCB
  • Engineering concepts for mitigating negative LSCB

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Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

23 pages, 11490 KiB  
Article
Temporal (1948–2012) and Dynamic Evolution of the Wouri Estuary Coastline within the Gulf of Guinea
by Yannick Fossi Fotsi, Nicolas Pouvreau, Isabelle Brenon, Raphael Onguene and Jacques Etame
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(10), 343; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7100343 - 30 Sep 2019
Cited by 18 | Viewed by 3743
Abstract
The Wouri estuary is located in the Gulf of Guinea on the Atlantic coast of Cameroon’s coastline plain (3°49′ and 4°04′ north latitude and 9°20′ to 9°40′ east longitude), and is strongly influenced by coastal dynamics that have remained unquantified over a long [...] Read more.
The Wouri estuary is located in the Gulf of Guinea on the Atlantic coast of Cameroon’s coastline plain (3°49′ and 4°04′ north latitude and 9°20′ to 9°40′ east longitude), and is strongly influenced by coastal dynamics that have remained unquantified over a long period of time. This study analyzed the historical evolution of the Wouri estuarine coastline between 1948 and 2012. Variations in the estuarine evolution of the Wouri were studied from (i) minute topographic extracts from 1948, (ii) 1996–1999 nautical charts, and (iii) 2012 spatial map vectors. The net temporal spatial variation rates were calculated using the statistical methods of the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). These change rates were also calculated over two time intervals (1948–1996 and 1996–2012) and over a 64-year period (1948–2012). The study reveals highly disparate results. Indeed, kinematics show that the Wouri estuary was dominated by erosion in its downstream section, with 262.83 ha for −3.2 m/year and 110.56 ha for −5.8 m/year between 1948–1996 and 1996–2012 respectively, and by accretion on the other hand in its upstream section, with 239.17 ha for 4.3 m/year in zone 5 between 1948–1996 and 150.82 ha for 12.6 m/year in zone 4 between 1996–2012. Thus, over the 64-year period (1948–2012), we have a dominance of variation by erosion downstream and conversely by accretion upstream, marked by the presence of amplifying factors (anthropogenic pressure and climate change) of the rate of variation of morphological evolution at the beginning of the 21st century, as compared to the middle-20th century. The observed development of sediment loss and accumulation, both influences and will influence, the sediment regime along the Wouri estuarine coastline. There is a need to develop a systematic sub-regional coastal surveillance activity to effectively manage Cameroon’s coastline system. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Large-scale Coastal Behavior)
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23 pages, 15421 KiB  
Article
Morphodynamic Acceleration Techniques for Multi-Timescale Predictions of Complex Sandy Interventions
by Arjen P. Luijendijk, Matthieu A. de Schipper and Roshanka Ranasinghe
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(3), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7030078 - 21 Mar 2019
Cited by 23 | Viewed by 6320
Abstract
Thirty one percent (31%) of the world’s coastline consists of sandy beaches and dunes that form a natural defense protecting the hinterland from flooding. A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand nourishments. The design and acceptance [...] Read more.
Thirty one percent (31%) of the world’s coastline consists of sandy beaches and dunes that form a natural defense protecting the hinterland from flooding. A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand nourishments. The design and acceptance of such a mitigating measure require information on the expected evolution at time scales from storms to decades. Process-based morphodynamic models are increasingly applied, together with morphodynamic acceleration techniques, to obtain detailed information on this wide scale of ranges. This study shows that techniques for the acceleration of the morphological evolution can have a significant impact on the simulated evolution and dispersion of sandy interventions. A calibrated Delft3D model of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment is applied to compare different acceleration techniques, focusing on accuracy and computational times. Results show that acceleration techniques using representative (schematized) wave conditions are not capable of accurately reproducing the morphological response in the first two years. The best reproduction of the morphological behavior of the first five years is obtained by the brute force simulations. Applying input filtering and a compression factor provides similar accuracy yet with a factor five gain in computational cost. An attractive method for the medium to long time scales, which further reduces computational costs, is a method that uses representative wave conditions based on gross longshore transports, while showing similar results as the benchmark simulation. Erosional behavior is captured well in all considered techniques with variations in volumes of about 1 million m 3 after three decades. The spatio-temporal variability of the predicted alongshore and cross-shore distribution of the morphological evolution however have a strong dependency on the selected acceleration technique. A new technique, called ’brute force merged’, which incorporates the full variability of the wave climate, provides the optimal combination of phenomenological accuracy and computational efficiency (a factor of 20 faster than the benchmark brute force technique) at both the short and medium to long time scales. This approach, which combines realistic time series and the mormerge technique, provides an attractive and flexible method to efficiently predict the evolution of complex sandy interventions at time scales from hours to decades. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Large-scale Coastal Behavior)
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25 pages, 6984 KiB  
Article
Mesoscale Morphological Changes of Nearshore Sand Banks since the Early 19th Century, and Their Influence on Coastal Dynamics, Northern France
by Alexa Latapy, Arnaud Héquette, Nicolas Pouvreau, Nicolas Weber and Jean-Baptiste Robin-Chanteloup
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(3), 73; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7030073 - 20 Mar 2019
Cited by 9 | Viewed by 4741
Abstract
Tidal sand banks are common along the coast of northern France facing the North Sea, where they form linear shore-parallel or slightly oblique sand bodies from shallow coastal areas to depths of tens of meters. Hydrographic surveys have been carried out since the [...] Read more.
Tidal sand banks are common along the coast of northern France facing the North Sea, where they form linear shore-parallel or slightly oblique sand bodies from shallow coastal areas to depths of tens of meters. Hydrographic surveys have been carried out since the 1830s for mapping the seabed of the coastal zone. An analysis of the bathymetry evolution shows significant morphological changes have occurred across the shoreface since the early 19th century, largely due to cross-shore and longshore sand bank migration. Our results show that nearshore sand banks mainly migrated onshore and gained sediment, especially during the 20th century; acting as temporary sediment sinks, which can in turn serve as sand sources for providing sediment to the coast. Alongshore, the migration and elongation of sand banks can be related to tidal asymmetry that is mostly directed to the east-north-east in the region. Shore-perpendicular movement can likely be explained by the action of shore-normal storm-waves in the nearshore zone after their refraction over shallow offshore sand banks. A seaward displacement of sand banks was also observed. This may be related to the combined action of waves and tidal currents which can induce erosion on one side of the bank, decreasing its width, and eventually leading to its seaward migration. Our observations point out that some nearshore sand banks respond to the action of currents and waves, and interact between each other via feedback morphodynamic processes induced by sand bank morphological changes. The substantial morphologic changes that affected the nearshore zone of northern France during the last centuries probably had large impacts on coastal hydrodynamics and associated shoreline evolution. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Large-scale Coastal Behavior)
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26 pages, 6211 KiB  
Article
Observations and Modelling of Shoreface Nourishment Behaviour
by Bastiaan J. A. Huisman, Dirk-Jan R. Walstra, Max Radermacher, Matthieu A. de Schipper and B. Gerben Ruessink
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(3), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7030059 - 4 Mar 2019
Cited by 31 | Viewed by 5795
Abstract
Shoreface nourishments are commonly applied for coastal maintenance, but their behaviour is not well understood. Bathymetric data of 19 shoreface nourishments located at alongshore uniform sections of the Dutch coast were therefore analyzed and used to validate an efficient method for predicting the [...] Read more.
Shoreface nourishments are commonly applied for coastal maintenance, but their behaviour is not well understood. Bathymetric data of 19 shoreface nourishments located at alongshore uniform sections of the Dutch coast were therefore analyzed and used to validate an efficient method for predicting the erosion of shoreface nourishments. Data shows that considerable cross-shore profile change takes place at a shoreface nourishment, while an impact at the adjacent coast is hard to distinguish. The considered shoreface nourishments provide a long-term (3 to ∼30 years) cross-shore supply of sediment to the beach, but with small impact on the local shoreline shape. An efficient modelling approach is presented using a lookup table filled with computed initial erosion–sedimentation rates for a range of potential environmental conditions at a single post-construction bathymetry. Cross-shore transport contributed the majority of the losses from the initial nourishment region. This transport was driven partly by water-level setup driven currents (e.g., rip currents) and increased velocity asymmetry of the waves due to the geometrical change at the shoreface nourishment. Most erosion of the nourishment takes place during energetic wave conditions ( H m 0 ≥ 3 m) as milder waves are propagated over the nourishment without breaking. A data-model comparison shows that this approach can be used to accurately assess the erosion rates of shoreface nourishments in the first years after construction. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Large-scale Coastal Behavior)
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16 pages, 4291 KiB  
Article
A 2D Tide-Averaged Model for the Long-Term Evolution of an Idealized Tidal Basin-Inlet-Delta System
by Giulio Mariotti and Shamim Murshid
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2018, 6(4), 154; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse6040154 - 11 Dec 2018
Cited by 12 | Viewed by 4743
Abstract
We present a model for the morphodynamics of tidal basin-inlet-delta systems at the centennial time scales. Tidal flow is calculated through a friction dominated model, with a semi-empirical correction to account for the advection of momentum. Transport of non-cohesive sediment (sand) is simulated [...] Read more.
We present a model for the morphodynamics of tidal basin-inlet-delta systems at the centennial time scales. Tidal flow is calculated through a friction dominated model, with a semi-empirical correction to account for the advection of momentum. Transport of non-cohesive sediment (sand) is simulated through tidal dispersion, i.e., without explicitly resolving sediment advection. Sediment is also transported downslope through a bed elevation diffusion process. The model is compared to a high-resolution tide-resolving model (Delft3D) with good agreement for different hydrodynamic and sedimentary settings. The model has low sensitivity with respect to temporal and spatial discretization. For the same spatial resolution, the model is about five orders of magnitude faster than tide-resolving models (e.g., Delft3D), and about three orders of magnitude faster than tide-resolving models that use a morphological acceleration factor. This numerical efficiency makes the model suitable to assess long-term changes of large coastal areas. The model’s simplicity makes it suitable for coupling with other physical, ecological, and socio-economic dynamics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Large-scale Coastal Behavior)
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