Coastal Morphology Assessment and Coastal Protection

The aftermath of the Indian Ocean tsunami on 26 December 2004 triggered by the off Sumatra earthquake (magnitude “M” = 9.1), and the Great East Japan earthquake of 11 March 2011 off the Pacific coast of Tohoku (M = 9.0), evidence the secondary damage from driftage collision due to large tsunami waves. To prevent this type of damage, the establishment of methods for predicting driftage movement and calculating the impact force by driftage is necessary. Several numerical models have been developed to predict the driftage movement of objects. Every year, these improve in accuracy and usability. In contrast, there are many calculation formulae for calculating the impact force. However, since there are considerable differences between values calculated using these formulae, the reliability of each formula is unknown. Therefore, in this research, one team of the committee on tsunami research of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers summarizes the main calculation formulae of impact forces that have been proposed until 2019. In addition, for each type of driftage (driftwood, containers, cars, ships), we compare calculation values of these formulae with measured data of large-scale experiments. Finally, we check the range of calculation values for each formula up to 15 m/s in collision velocity and clarify then the following facts: (1) In the case of driftwood, the formulae of Matsutomi, Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) and National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), and American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE) are most reliable; (2) In the case of containers, the formulae of Matsutomi, Arikawa et al., FEMA and NOAA, Ikeno et al., and ASCE are most reliable; (3) In the case of cars, the formulae of FEMA and NOAA, and ASCE are most reliable; (4) In the case of ships, the formulae of Mizutani, FEMA and NOAA, and ASCE are most reliable. Full article

Gravel beaches and barriers form a valuable natural protection for many shorelines. The paper presents a numerical modelling study of gravel barrier beach response to storm wave conditions. The XBeach non-hydrostatic model was set up in 1D mode to investigate barrier volume change and overwash under a wide range of unimodal and bimodal storm conditions and barrier cross sections. The numerical model was validated against conditions at Hurst Castle Spit, UK. The validated model is used to simulate the response of a range of gravel barrier cross sections under a wide selection of statistically significant storm wave and water level scenarios thus simulating an ensemble of barrier volume change and overwash. This ensemble of results was used to develop a simple parametric model for estimating barrier volume change during a given storm and water level condition under unimodal storm conditions. Numerical simulations of barrier response to bimodal storm conditions, which are a common occurrence in many parts of the UK were also investigated. It was found that barrier volume change and overwash from bimodal storms will be higher than that from unimodal storms if the swell percentage in the bimodal spectrum is greater than 40%. The model is demonstrated as providing a useful tool for estimating barrier volume change, a commonly used measure used in gravel barrier beach management. Full article

We report cross-shore profile evolution at Palanga, eastern Baltic Sea, where short period waves dominate. Cross-shore profile studies began directly after a significant coastal erosion event caused by storm “Anatol”, in December of 1999, and continued for a year. Further measurements were undertaken sixteen years later. Cross-shore profile changes were described, and cross-shore transport rates were calculated. A K-means clustering technique was applied to determine sections of the profile with the same development tendencies. Profile evolution was strongly influenced by the depth of closure which is constrained by a moraine layer, and the presence of a groyne. The method used divided the profile into four clusters: the first cluster in the deepest water represents profile evolution limited by the depth of closure, and the second and third are mainly affected by processes induced by wind, wave and water level changes. The most intensive sediment volume changes were observed directly after the coastal erosion event. The largest sand accumulation was in the fourth profile cluster, which includes the upper beach and dunes. Seaward extension of the dune system caused a narrowing of the visible beach, which has led to an increased sand volume (accretion) being misinterpreted as erosion Full article

In the case of huge tsunamis, such as the 2004 Great Indian Ocean Tsunami and 2011 Great East Japan Tsunami, the damage caused by ground scour is serious. Therefore, it is important to improve prediction models for the topographical change of huge tsunamis. For general models that predict topographical change, the flow velocity distribution of a flood region is calculated by a numerical model based on a nonlinear long wave theory, and the distribution of bed-load rates is calculated using this velocity distribution and an equation for evaluating bed-load rates. This bed-load rate equation usually has a coefficient that can be decided using verification simulations. For the purpose, Ribberink’s formula has high reproducibility within an oscillating flow and was chosen by the authors. Ribberink’s formula needs a bed-load transport coefficient that requires sufficient verification simulations, as it consumes plenty of time and money to decide its value. Therefore, the authors generated diagrams that can define the suitable bed-load coefficient simply using the data acquired from hydraulic experiments on a movable bed. Subsequently, for the verification purpose of the model, the authors performed reproduced simulations of topography changes caused by the 2011 Great East Japan Tsunami at some coasts in Northern Japan using suitable coefficients acquired from the generated diagrams. The results of the simulations were in an acceptable range. The authors presented the preliminary generated diagrams of the same methodology but with insubstantial experimental data at the time at the International Society of Offshore and Polar Engineers (ISOPE), (2018 and 2019). However, in this paper, an adequate amount of data was added to the developed diagrams based on many hydraulic experiments to further raise their reliability and their application extent. Furthermore, by reproducing the tsunami simulation on the Sendai Natori coast of Japan, the authors determined that the impact of total bed-load transport was much bigger than that of suspension loads. Besides, the simulation outputs revealed that the mitigation effect of the cemented sand and gravel (CSG) banks and artificial refuge hills reduced tsunami damage on Japan’s Hamamatsu coast. Since a lot of buildings and structures in the inundation area can be destroyed by tsunamis, building destruction design was presented in this paper through an economy and simplified state. Using the proposed tsunami simulation model, we acquired the inundation depth at any specific time and location within the inundated area. Because the inundation breadth due to a huge tsunami can extend kilometers toward the inland area, the evaluation of building destruction is an important measure to consider. Therefore, the authors in this paper presented useful threshold diagrams to evaluate building destruction with an easy and cost-efficient state. The threshold diagrams of “width of a pillar” for buildings or “width of concrete block walls” not breaking to each inundation height were developed using the data of damages due to the 2011 Great East Japan Tsunami. Full article

This research presents a study on the morphodynamic evolution of the Rossbeigh coastal barrier and its dune system, located in Dingle Bay, County Kerry, Ireland. The study examines the evolution of the system over a 19-year period (2001–2019) through remote sensing, geographic information system (GIS) analysis, and field-based surveys. This research provides an ideal opportunity to examine a natural erosion event, referred to as cannibalization on a coastal barrier and its dune system. Since the beginning of this century, significant erosion has been visible on the coastal barrier, with the erosion eventually leading to a breaching event in the winter of 2008/2009. Over the study period, analysis has shown that the vegetated dunes decreased by more than 60 percent, the width of the breached area reached a maximum width of over 1 km and a change in orientation and appearance on the coastal barrier has been quantified. The analysis identifies a growing drift-aligned zone, contrasted with a reduction in the stable swash-aligned zone. Significantly, the point between these zones (i.e., the hinge point) has been shown to have moved by more than 1 km also. The migration of this hinge point and cannibalization of the dunes are illustrated. Finally, the potential mechanism for beach healing is identified, utilizing the rich datasets collected during the study, thus providing an insight into the long-term behavior of a dynamic coastal barrier system undergoing naturally driven cannibalization. Full article