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Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients

A special issue of Molecules (ISSN 1420-3049). This special issue belongs to the section "Natural Products Chemistry".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 31 December 2025 | Viewed by 1999

Special Issue Editors


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Guest Editor
School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
Interests: extraction and separation of bioactive substances
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
College of Life Science and Technology, Jinan University, Guangzhou 510632, China
Interests: functional cosmetics; targeted drugs; inflammation and autoimmune diseases

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Cosmetics, initially associated with altering one’s appearance, have evolved beyond their traditional beauty role to encompass skin-care and the treatment of various skin conditions. With the rise in consumer preferences for novel ingredients with various bioactivities, researchers are actively exploring the development of functional molecules, including synthetic molecules, natural molecules and bio-derived molecules, and they are also exploring the skin-care and hair-care properties of these substances. Additionally, delivery systems of the functional molecules, such as liposomes, nanolipid, noisomes and other novel emulsions, have been investigated and proven to be more efficient than conventional formulations.

For this Special Issue, we invite researchers to provide original research articles that report on the development and production of novel functional molecules such as synthetic molecules, natural compounds, products from microorganisms, or substances derived from these sources for potential cosmetic applications. In addition, articles reporting on the encapsulation and delivery technologies of the functional molecules for cosmetic formulation applications can be also submitted. We also invite the submission of biological properties and clinical studies demonstrating skin or hair-care applications and the related molecule mechanisms of these functional ingredients. Review articles discussing the current state of the art in the field of functional molecules for cosmetic applications are also welcome.

Prof. Dr. Jing Wang
Prof. Dr. Zhong Liu
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

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Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2700 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • synthetic molecules
  • plant extracts
  • natural compounds
  • biotech-derived molecules
  • natural-derived molecules
  • fermentation-derived ingredients
  • biological activity
  • cosmetics
  • encapsulation and delivery technologies of ingredients
  • skin-care
  • hair-care

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Related Special Issue

Published Papers (2 papers)

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Research

13 pages, 1439 KiB  
Communication
Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Umbelliferone: In Vitro and Clinical Studies
by Da Jung Kim, Min Sook Jung, Hee Un Jin, Mi-Sun Kim and Chae Eun An
Molecules 2024, 29(23), 5571; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29235571 - 25 Nov 2024
Viewed by 227
Abstract
Melanin overexpression causes skin hyperpigmentation, which is associated with various skin disorders and cosmetic concerns. Umbelliferone, a natural coumarin found widely in plant species, has been noted for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects but has received little attention for its impact on melanogenesis. [...] Read more.
Melanin overexpression causes skin hyperpigmentation, which is associated with various skin disorders and cosmetic concerns. Umbelliferone, a natural coumarin found widely in plant species, has been noted for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects but has received little attention for its impact on melanogenesis. Here, the effects of umbelliferone on melanogenesis were investigated in vitro and in clinical studies. The results showed that umbelliferone was non-cytotoxic to human skin and B16F10 melanoma cells. It also exhibited significant anti-melanogenic effects, reducing both melanin production and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. This effect was achieved through a decrease in tyrosinase mRNA levels. Furthermore, umbelliferone in a formulation was stable under different temperature conditions, and after four weeks of topical application, it significantly decreased the melanin index and increased skin lightness (L*) values compared to those at the baseline. Overall, these findings demonstrate the potential of umbelliferone as a promising skin-lightening agent in the cosmetics industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
17 pages, 1642 KiB  
Article
Formulating Sustainable Emulsions: Mandelic Acid and Essential Oils as Natural Preservatives
by Jana Pavlačková, Pavlína Egner, Pavel Mokrejš and Magda Janalíková
Molecules 2024, 29(18), 4510; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29184510 - 23 Sep 2024
Viewed by 1401
Abstract
Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics [...] Read more.
Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics are those that do not cause irritation, smell pleasant, and have other beneficial properties such as antimicrobial effects. Emulsions with Mandelic Acid and essential oils from Satureja montana, Lemongrass, and Litsea cubeba were formulated and microbiologically tested for their preservative effectiveness. The effect of the treatments on skin condition was monitored by non-invasive diagnostic methods, such as hydration, transepidermal water loss, and pH value. Sensory analysis revealed that the matrix containing Mandelic Acid alone or combined with Litsea Cubeba Oil was the best-performing formulation, consistent with the compliant results of antimicrobial efficacy. The topical form of this cosmetic product has demonstrated excellent preservative activity and desirable biophysical efficacy on the skin. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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Planned Papers

The below list represents only planned manuscripts. Some of these manuscripts have not been received by the Editorial Office yet. Papers submitted to MDPI journals are subject to peer-review.

Title: Ganoderma lucidum extract fights aging by reducing mitochondrial stress and controlling
Authors: Zhong Liu
Affiliation: College of Life Science and Technology, Jinan University, Guangzhou 510632, China

Title: Cosmetic ingredients from plants
Authors: Laurence Coiffard
Affiliation: Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Nantes, LIEN, EA4685, F-44000 Nantes, France

Title: Preparation of cosmetic peel bases from coffee waste
Authors: Alexandros Tsoupras
Affiliation: Hephaestus Laboratory, School of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, Democritus University of Thrace, Kavala University Campus, St Lukas, 65404 Kavala, Greece

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