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Storm Erosion
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Storm Erosion

A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 April 2019) | Viewed by 23048

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Tim Scott

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
School of Biological & Marine Sciences (Faculty of Science & Engineering), University of Plymouth, Plymouth, UK
Interests: coastal and submarine geomorphology; surf zone hydrodynamics; coastal response to extreme storms; coastal hazards; hydrography; coastal survey
Prof. Dr. Serge Suanez

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Geography (Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer), Université de Bretagne Occidentale, Plouzané, France
Interests: littoral geomorphology; hydrodynamics; coastal processes

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Coastal erosion by storms is a relevant issue that has experienced an increased research focus in recent decades, within the context of a increasing awareness of the important role storm erosion plays in coastal vulnerability in a changing climate and during a global expansion of human settlement throughout the coastal fringe. At the same time, technological and methodological developments in terms of field measurements and modeling have enabled investigation of new themes related to storm erosion and coastal response to extreme events, exploiting expanding spatial and temporal scales of morphological datasets and improved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic coastal modelling capability. The purpose of this invited Special Issue is to compile new innovative research that represents the state-of-the-art in our understanding and modeling of storm erosion processes and their impact throughout the coastal zone. It is also an opportunity to provide a rapid turn-around time regarding reviewing and publishing, and to disseminate the articles freely for research, teaching, and reference purposes.

High quality papers are encouraged that are storm related in the following areas:

  • Dune erosion
  • Infragravity waves
  • Extreme water levels
  • Erosion and sediment transport
  • Coastal erosion processes
  • Coastal sediment budgets
  • Coastal flooding
  • Erosion and coastal risk
  • Storm erosion and impact modelling
  • Climate controls on storm erosion

Contributions can be based on field observations, including novel and multi-method techniques, laboratory experiments, and/or morphodynamic and hydrodynamic modelling.

Dr. Tim Scott
Prof. Dr. Suanez Serge
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • storm erosion
  • storm hydrodynamics
  • storm flooding and coastal risk
  • storm sediment transport
  • storm modelling
  • storm recovery
  • extreme storm erosion and climate

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Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

30 pages, 16562 KiB  
Article
Coastal Processes and Influence on Damage to Urban Structures during Hurricane Irma (St-Martin & St-Barthélemy, French West Indies)
by Tony Rey, Frédéric Leone, Thomas Candela, Ali Belmadani, Philippe Palany, Yann Krien, Raphael Cécé, Monique Gherardi, Matthieu Péroche and Narcisse Zahibo
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(7), 215; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7070215 - 12 Jul 2019
Cited by 23 | Viewed by 6470
Abstract
This study aims to better understand coastal processes associated with extreme cyclonic events through the study of the coastal changes, flooding and damage that resulted from the passage of a category 5 hurricane (Irma) on 6 September 2017 over the islands of Saint-Martin [...] Read more.
This study aims to better understand coastal processes associated with extreme cyclonic events through the study of the coastal changes, flooding and damage that resulted from the passage of a category 5 hurricane (Irma) on 6 September 2017 over the islands of Saint-Martin and Saint-Barthélemy in the Lesser Antilles. Hurricane Irma was contextualized from tropical cyclone track data and local weather observations collected by Météo-France, as well as high-resolution numerical modelling. Field work involved the study of accretion coasts through qualitative observations, topo-morphological and sedimentary surveys, as well as image acquisition with Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV) surveys during two trips that were made 2 and 8 months after the catastrophe. Wave propagation and flood numerical models are presented and compared to field data. Our field analysis also reports on the devastating impacts of storm surges and waves, which reached 4 and 10 meters height, respectively, especially along east-facing shores. The approaches reveal a variety of morpho-sedimentary responses over both natural and highly urbanized coasts. The analysis shows the effects of coastal structures and streets on flow channeling, on the amplification of some erosion types, and on water level increase. Positive spatial correlation is found between damage intensity and marine flood depth. The signatures of ocean-induced damage are clear and tend to validate the relevance of the intensity scale used in this study. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Storm Erosion)
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27 pages, 3914 KiB  
Article
Sediment Transport Processes during Barrier Island Inundation under Variations in Cross-Shore Geometry and Hydrodynamic Forcing
by Anita Engelstad, Gerben Ruessink, Piet Hoekstra and Maarten van der Vegt
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(7), 210; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7070210 - 8 Jul 2019
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3169
Abstract
Inundation of barrier islands can cause severe morphological changes, from the break-up of islands to sediment accretion. The response will depend on island geometry and hydrodynamic forcing. To explore this dependence, the non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH was used to investigate the relative importance [...] Read more.
Inundation of barrier islands can cause severe morphological changes, from the break-up of islands to sediment accretion. The response will depend on island geometry and hydrodynamic forcing. To explore this dependence, the non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH was used to investigate the relative importance of bedload transport processes, such as transport by mean flow, short- (0.05–1 Hz) and infragravity (0.005–0.05 Hz) waves during barrier island inundation for different island configurations and hydrodynamic conditions. The boundary conditions for the model are based on field observations on a Dutch barrier island. Model results indicate that waves dominate the sediment transport processes from outer surfzone until landwards of the island crest, either by transporting sediment directly or by providing sediment stirring for the mean flow transport. Transport by short waves was continuously landwards directed, while infragravity wave and mean flow transport was seaward or landward directed. Landward of the crest, sediment transport was mostly dominated by the mean flow. It was forced by the water level gradient, which determined the mean flow transport direction and magnitude in the inner surfzone and on the island top. Simulations suggest that short wave and mean flow transport are generally larger on steeper slopes, since wave energy dissipation is less and mean flow velocities are higher. The slope of the island top and the width of the island foremost affect the mean flow transport, while variations in inundation depth will additionally affect transport by short-wave acceleration skewness. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Storm Erosion)
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21 pages, 4036 KiB  
Article
Storm Waves at the Shoreline: When and Where Are Infragravity Waves Important?
by Oliver Billson, Paul Russell and Mark Davidson
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(5), 139; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7050139 - 11 May 2019
Cited by 18 | Viewed by 4295
Abstract
Infragravity waves (frequency, f = 0.005–0.05 Hz) are known to dominate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes close to the shoreline on low-sloping sandy beaches, especially when incident waves are large. However, in storm wave conditions, how their importance varies on different beach types, [...] Read more.
Infragravity waves (frequency, f = 0.005–0.05 Hz) are known to dominate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes close to the shoreline on low-sloping sandy beaches, especially when incident waves are large. However, in storm wave conditions, how their importance varies on different beach types, and with different mixes of swell and wind-waves is largely unknown. Here, a new dataset, comprising shoreline video observations from five contrasting sites (one low-sloping sandy beach, two steep gravel beaches, and two compound/mixed sand and gravel beaches), under storm wave conditions (deep water wave height, H0 up to 6.6 m, and peak period, Tp up to 18.2 s), was used to assess: how the importance and dominance of infragravity waves varies at the shoreline? In this previously unstudied combination of wave and morphological conditions, significant infragravity swash heights (Sig) at the shoreline in excess of 0.5 m were consistently observed on all five contrasting beaches. The largest infragravity swash heights were observed on a steep gravel beach, followed by the low-sloping sandy beach, and lowest on the compound/mixed sites. Due to contrasting short wave breaking and dissipation processes, infragravity frequencies were observed to be most dominant over gravity frequencies on the low-sloping sandy beach, occasionally dominant on the gravel beaches, and rarely dominant on the compound/mixed beaches. Existing empirical predictive relationships were shown to parameterize Sig skillfully on the sand and gravel beaches separately. Deep water wave power was found to accurately predict Sig on both the sand and gravel beaches, demonstrating that, under storm wave conditions, the wave heights and periods are the main drivers of infragravity oscillations at the shoreline, with the beach morphology playing a secondary role. The exception to this was the compound/mixed beach sites where shoreline infragravity energy remained low. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Storm Erosion)
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18 pages, 15207 KiB  
Article
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing
by Mark Wiggins, Tim Scott, Gerd Masselink, Paul Russell and Nieves G. Valiente
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(4), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 - 23 Apr 2019
Cited by 16 | Viewed by 3826
Abstract
Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-directionality between dominant south-westerly and sub-dominant easterly [...] Read more.
Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-directionality between dominant south-westerly and sub-dominant easterly waves for 14 offshore locations along the length of the south coast of England, U.K. South-westerly wave power was well correlated to positive phases of the West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA), whilst easterly wave power was well correlated with negative phases of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). Additionally, decadal records of beach morphological change and associated wave forcing, were investigated for 22 coastal sites across the same region. Significant rotational behaviour was identified at 11 sites, leading to the creation of a rotation index. Beach rotation was attributed to shoreline angle, with the strongest rotation occurring at south-east-facing beaches, with high obliquity to dominant south-westerly waves. The beach rotation index was well correlated with the normalized balance of wave power from opposing south-westerly and easterly directions. Direct correlations between beach rotation and WEPA at two sites showed that future forecasts of atmospheric indices may allow prediction of rotational beach state, at seasonal scales. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Storm Erosion)
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14 pages, 4389 KiB  
Article
High Resolution Shoreline and Shelly Ridge Monitoring over Stormy Winter Events: A Case Study in the Megatidal Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel (France)
by Antoine Mury, Matthieu Jeanson, Antoine Collin, Dorothée James and Samuel Etienne
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2019, 7(4), 97; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040097 - 4 Apr 2019
Cited by 11 | Viewed by 4520
Abstract
In the current context of decadal global changes and predicted sea level rise, annual erosion is one of the most obvious indicators of threats to coastal systems. Shoreline monitoring during high energy events is therefore a crucial action to prevent and alleviate future [...] Read more.
In the current context of decadal global changes and predicted sea level rise, annual erosion is one of the most obvious indicators of threats to coastal systems. Shoreline monitoring during high energy events is therefore a crucial action to prevent and alleviate future coastal risks. However, most studies look at this on a regional issue basis with limited resolution, and with limited support from field observations. This study addresses this lack by focusing on high resolution (HR) shoreline surveys, combined with wave measurements, in the megatidal Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel. The salt marsh vegetation line and the inner margin of shelly ridges were selected as markers of the stabilized shoreline, to follow its evolution during two high energy winter events, from February 18 to 24, 2015 and from March 19 to 24, 2015, in two different study sites. A transdisciplinary methodology was adopted which included: (1) in situ wave measurements with pressure sensors, (2) topographical data acquisition using a differential GPS, and (3) in silico observations of the shoreline movements through HR aerial and satellite imageries. Our findings highlighted the positive linkage between significant wave height and erosion rate (ranging from 0 to 60.9 m), as well as the variability of coastline responses depending on the geomorphic features. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Storm Erosion)
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