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Cosmetics
Special Issues
Plant-Based Cosmeceuticals: Recent Developments and Advances
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Plant-Based Cosmeceuticals: Recent Developments and Advances

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 June 2023) | Viewed by 22544

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Adeyemi Oladapo Aremu

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Indigenous Knowledge Systems Centre, Faculty of Natural and Agricultural Sciences, North-West University, Mmabatho 2745, NW, South Africa
Interests: IKS; phytomedicine; conservation; ethnopharmacology; antioxidants; antimicrobial; herbal cosmetics; phytocosmetics; cosmeceutical; phytochemicals
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Basiru Ajiboye

E-Mail Website1 Website2
Guest Editor
Phytomedicine, Molecular Toxicology Research Laboratory, Department of Biochemistry, Faculty of Sciences, Federal University Oye-Ekiti, Ekiti 360001, Nigeria
Interests: Nutraceutical, Phytomedicine, Bioinformatics, Toxicology

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Globally, plants are well-known for their diverse applications, especially their therapeutic value which is often linked to the indigenous knowledge recognized and practiced among different ethnic groups. Particularly, several plants, such as aloe (genus Aloe), calendula (Calendula officinalis), geranium, lavender (genus Lavender), jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis), and Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) are popular with high demand in the global beauty and cosmetic industry, as essentials for the maintenance of healthy and radiant skin, as well as for managing skin diseases. In addition, the cosmetic effect of these plants is attributed to their rich and diverse phytochemicals, including essential oils that may be used as ingredients in other conventional cosmetic products.

Consumers’ preference and paradigm shift towards natural-based and safe cosmetics has resulted in an increased interest in exploring plants for their cosmetics value. Despite the increasing research outputs in this sector, the need for a holistic approach and integrated research remain pertinent to fully harness the unlocked potential in plants. As a point of departure, it is evident that the indigenous knowledge associated with the plants with cosmetic value needs to be carefully documented prior to the evaluation of their cosmetic effects. The importance of value-addition, quality control, and devising an appropriate conservation of plants with cosmetic value cannot be overemphasized.

This Special Issue calls for manuscripts related to cosmetic applications of plants and their constituents for managing skin-related conditions and general well-being. This is envisaged to focus on the whole-value chain entailed the use of plants as cosmetics and further elucidate their value as natural-based products which are safe and efficient in today’s world. We welcome submissions focusing on the documentation of the indigenous knowledge associated with the use of plants for skin-related conditions, biological efficacies, phytochemical profiling, safety assessment, value-addition, and enhancement (e.g., nanoparticles), as well as quality control issues and conservation strategies for these valuable natural resources.

Dr. Adeyemi Oladapo Aremu
Dr. Basiru Ajiboye
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • antimicrobial
  • antioxidant
  • bioinformatics
  • conservation
  • ethnobotanical surveys
  • herbal cosmetics
  • microscopy
  • nanoparticles
  • natural products
  • pharmaceutical
  • phyto cosmetics
  • quality control
  • skin care

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Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

17 pages, 9587 KiB  
Article
Skin Anti-Aging Potentials of Phytochemicals from Peperomia pellucida against Selected Metalloproteinase Targets: An In Silico Approach
by Babatunji Emmanuel Oyinloye, Emmanuel Ayodeji Agbebi, Oluwaseun Emmanuel Agboola, Chukwudi Sunday Ubah, Olutunmise Victoria Owolabi, Raphael Taiwo Aruleba, Sunday Amos Onikanni, Jerius Nkwuda Ejeje, Basiru Olaitan Ajiboye and Olaposi Idowu Omotuyi
Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 151; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060151 - 2 Nov 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 4179
Abstract
Skin aging and wrinkle formation are processes that are largely influenced by the overexpression of enzymes like tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase. This study aimed to validate the skin anti-aging properties of phytochemicals from Peperomia pellucida (PP) as well as its attendant mechanism of [...] Read more.
Skin aging and wrinkle formation are processes that are largely influenced by the overexpression of enzymes like tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase. This study aimed to validate the skin anti-aging properties of phytochemicals from Peperomia pellucida (PP) as well as its attendant mechanism of action. Compounds previously characterized from PP were retrieved from the PubChem database and docked to the active sites of tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase using Schrödinger’s Maestro 11.5 and AutoDock tools to predict compounds with the best inhibitory potential to block these enzymes in preventing skin aging. It was observed that our hit compounds had favorable affinity and displayed key interactions at the active sites of these enzymes similar to those of the standards. With elastase, we observed key interactions with the amino acids in the S1 sub-pocket (especially ALA-181), Zn chelation, and histidine residues, which are key for inhibitory activity and ligand stability. The hit compounds showed H-bonds with the key amino acids of collagenase, including LEU-185 and ALA-186; phlobaphene and patuloside B were found to have better docking scores and inhibition constants (Ki) (−12.36 Kcal/mol, 0.87 nM and −12.06 Kcal/mol, 1.45 nM, respectively) when compared with those of the synthetic reference compound (−12.00 Kcal/mol, 1.67 nM). For tyrosinase, our hit compounds had both better docking scores and Ki values than kojic acid, with patuloside B and procyanidin having the best values of −9.43 Kcal/mol, 121.40 nM and −9.32 Kcal/mol, 193.48 nM, respectively (kojic acid = −8.19 Kcal/mol, 898.03 nM). Based on this study, we propose that acacetin, procyanidin, phlobaphene, patulosides A and B, palmitic acid, and hexahydroxydiphenic acid are responsible for the anti-aging effects of PP on the skin, and that they work synergistically through a multi-target inhibition of these enzymes. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plant-Based Cosmeceuticals: Recent Developments and Advances)
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20 pages, 4821 KiB  
Article
In Silico Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Dermatocosmetic Activities of Phytoconstituents in Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.)
by Toluwase Hezekiah Fatoki, Basiru Olaitan Ajiboye and Adeyemi Oladapo Aremu
Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 69; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030069 - 25 Apr 2023
Cited by 10 | Viewed by 4841
Abstract
The global demand for herbal cosmetics is vastly increasing due to their health benefits and relative safety. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are used in cosmetic preparations due to their skin-whitening, antisensitizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. The aim of this work is to computationally evaluate the [...] Read more.
The global demand for herbal cosmetics is vastly increasing due to their health benefits and relative safety. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are used in cosmetic preparations due to their skin-whitening, antisensitizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. The aim of this work is to computationally evaluate the bioactive constituents of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) that possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and dermatocosmetic activities, and elucidate the dynamics of their molecular targets. The used methods are skin permeability prediction, target prediction, molecular docking, and molecular dynamic simulation (MDS). The results show that, at a skin permeation cut-off value of −6.0 cm/s, nine phytoconstituents of licorice (furfuraldehyde, glucoliquiritin apioside, glycyrrhizin, isoliquiritin, licopyranocoumarin, licuraside, liquiritigenin, liquiritin, and liquiritin apioside) were workable. Molecular target prediction results indicate probability for tyrosinase, 11-beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (HSD11B1), monoamine oxidase B, steroid 5-alpha-reductase 1, and cyclo-oxygenase-1. On the basis of molecular docking, glucoliquiritin apioside and glycyrrhizin had the best antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and dermatocosmetic activities. MDS results show that the complexes had good stability, and MMGBSA results indicate that the complexes had satisfactory binding energy. Overall, this study demonstrates that licorice extracts are potential antioxidants that could enhance histological dermal and epidermal properties, and reduce the level of inflammatory and wrinkling markers. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plant-Based Cosmeceuticals: Recent Developments and Advances)
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22 pages, 4882 KiB  
Article
Plants of Commercial Importance in Lesotho: Ethnobotanical and Pharmacological Insights
by Lerato Esther Seleteng-Kose, Puseletso Likoetla and Lisebo Motjotji
Cosmetics 2023, 10(1), 28; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010028 - 2 Feb 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 5454
Abstract
Several plants have been processed in Lesotho to manufacture various commercial prodcts, ranging from cosmetics and beverages (juice, tea) to traditional herbal mixtures and crafts. Even though plants of commercial importance have been documented in different regions and countries, this is not the [...] Read more.
Several plants have been processed in Lesotho to manufacture various commercial prodcts, ranging from cosmetics and beverages (juice, tea) to traditional herbal mixtures and crafts. Even though plants of commercial importance have been documented in different regions and countries, this is not the case in Lesotho. Therefore, the aim of the study is to record plant species commonly used in the country for development of commercial products. A physical survey was undertaken in different places in the Maseru District of Lesotho between January 2019 and October 2021, taking a record of existing commercial products and identifying plants used in their development. A total of 15 plants of commercial importance in the country are recorded in the current study, namely Agave americana, Aloe ferox, Artemisia afra, Cannabis sativa, Helichrysum odoratissimum, Hemannia depressa, Hypoxis hemerocallidea, Leudeboria cooperi, Mentha spp., Merxmuellera spp., Pelargonium sidoides, Opuntia ficus-indica, Rosa rubiginosa and Urtica urens. Most of the plants are used for production of commercial products in the country, whereas some are exported as raw materials, mainly to countries such as Germany, South Africa, Australia and America. The latter are C. sativa, Merxmuellera spp., P. sidoides and R. rubiginosa. Profiling of the plants provides important information about their commercial potential. However, conservation of the plants is encouraged to ensure their sustainable utilisation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plant-Based Cosmeceuticals: Recent Developments and Advances)
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14 pages, 859 KiB  
Article
Characterization and Sensory Evaluation of a Cosmeceutical Formulation for the Eye Area with Roasted Coffee Oil Microcapsules
by Bruna Raquel Böger, Audrey Alesandra Stinghen Garcia Lonni and Marta de Toledo Benassi
Cosmetics 2023, 10(1), 24; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010024 - 24 Jan 2023
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 4518
Abstract
The objective of this work was to characterize a cosmeceutical formulation for the eye area with roasted coffee oil microcapsules (MOF) and evaluate the acceptance and effects of its use by consumers. MOF had 3% microcapsules produced by complex coacervation; a basic formulation [...] Read more.
The objective of this work was to characterize a cosmeceutical formulation for the eye area with roasted coffee oil microcapsules (MOF) and evaluate the acceptance and effects of its use by consumers. MOF had 3% microcapsules produced by complex coacervation; a basic formulation (BF) was used for comparison. The addition of microcapsules did not affect the pH (4.52), density (0.99 g mL−1), consistency (0.77 N s), and viscosity index (0.25 N s) of the formulation. However, a reduction in spreadability, firmness, and cohesiveness was observed. The 58 assessors received one kit with the formulations and a notebook with instructions to carry out the tests at home. They were instructed to apply the cream for 28 days and evaluate the attributes of application and treatment effects on 7-point category scales. The effect of oil addition observed in the physical tests was not sensorially perceived for spreadability and tackiness (6.0 and 5.6, respectively), indicating approval and easiness of application. The perception of the benefits (increase in smoothness, hydration, firmness, elasticity, and skin general appearance, and reduction in signs of fatigue and wrinkles/fine lines) was similar comparing MOF and BF. In conclusion, the coffee oil microcapsule is a viable ingredient for dermocosmetics with sensory acceptance. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plant-Based Cosmeceuticals: Recent Developments and Advances)
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9 pages, 1593 KiB  
Communication
Metabolite Profile of Athrixia phylicoides DC. (Bush Tea) and Determination of Inhibitory Mechanism against Tyrosinase Enzyme from Mushroom
by Vuyisile Samuel Thibane, Maanea Lonia Ramphinwa, Godwin Richard Ainamensa Mchau and Fhatuwani Nixwell Mudau
Cosmetics 2022, 9(6), 133; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9060133 - 5 Dec 2022
Viewed by 2015
Abstract
Athrixia phylicoides DC. (Bush tea) is a shrub harvested in the north-eastern mountain regions of South Africa and belongs to the Asteraceae family. Generally, A. phylicoides is consumed as a hot tea beverage for its associated health benefits. The use of bush tea [...] Read more.
Athrixia phylicoides DC. (Bush tea) is a shrub harvested in the north-eastern mountain regions of South Africa and belongs to the Asteraceae family. Generally, A. phylicoides is consumed as a hot tea beverage for its associated health benefits. The use of bush tea extracts for beauty enhancement has not been investigated even though several ethnobotanical reports have indicated its usage against skin imperfections. Therefore, the aim of the study was to assess plant metabolites of A. phylicoides for their inhibition of tyrosinase from mushroom and determine their inhibitory mechanism. Methanolic extracts (80% v/v) of A. phylicoides were evaluated using a tyrosinase-based TLC (thin-layer chromatography) autography technique. The inhibitory mechanism of active metabolites against the enzyme was determined using Lineweaver–Burk plots. Quercetin and an unknown metabolite with a retention factor (Rf) value of 0.73 inhibited melanogenesis. However, the IC50 value for Quercetin was reported as 51.07 ± 2.43 µg/mL higher than that of kojic acid of 5.22 ± 1.44 µg/mL. Chlorogenic acid was reported to have a similar Rf value as kojic acid, suggesting similarities in polarity and affinity towards the adsorbent material. However, chlorogenic acid with an IC50 value of 15.25 ± 1.18 µg/mL and an inhibitory strength of 2.92 could not inhibit melanogenesis with a similar intensity as kojic acid. The inhibitory mechanism for A. phylicoides extract was reported to be mixed inhibition (competitive/uncompetitive). The IC50 value for A. phylicoides was recorded as 20.65 ± 0.14 µg/mL with an inhibitory strength of 3.96. These results suggest that A. phylicoides extracts could be used against dark spots associated with scarring and ageing through modulation of tyrosinase activity. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plant-Based Cosmeceuticals: Recent Developments and Advances)
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