Cosmetics, Volume 11, Issue 5 (October 2024) – 38 articles

Reactive oxygen species (ROS), commonly known as free radicals, induced by UV radiation can compromise the dermal structure, leading to a loss of skin elasticity and subsequent wrinkle formation. A promising strategy to prevent and mitigate skin aging involves the use of topical formulations with potent antioxidant properties. Secondary metabolites such as astaxanthin and zeaxanthin are known for their robust antioxidant activities, which surpass those of tocopherol, offering significant benefits for skin health and protection against UV-induced damage. These properties suggest their potential application in anti-aging products. This study aims to evaluate the stability, ex vivo penetration, and in vivo efficacy of a radiance serum containing an astaxanthin–zeaxanthin nanoemulsion (AZ-NE) designed as an anti-wrinkle agent for topical application. The research was conducted in four stages: production of the astaxanthin–zeaxanthin nanoemulsion (AZ-NE), formulation of the AZ-NE radiance serum, stability, and efficacy testing. In this study, the formulated radiance serum demonstrated stability over three months under specified storage conditions. Ex vivo penetration studies indicated efficient diffusion of the active ingredients, with astaxanthin showing a penetration rate of 25.95%/cm² and zeaxanthin at 20.80%/cm² after 120 min. In vivo irritation tests conducted on human subjects revealed no adverse effects. Moreover, the serum exhibited substantial anti-wrinkle efficacy, with 15 female participants experiencing a wrinkle reduction of 80% to 93% over a 28-day period. Full article

Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.), native to Southern Asia, stands out for its significant nutritional and therapeutic properties. Its adaptability and resilience have enabled its global cultivation, highlighting the necessity for comprehensive scientific research to fully harness its potential. Rich in bioactive compounds like flavonoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, polysaccharides, tannins, and saponins, jujube extracts exhibit notable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and wound healing properties. These qualities have made jujube a popular ingredient in various skin and hair care formulations. The versatility of jujube extracts, along with their synergy with other herbal active ingredients, enables the development of targeted personal care solutions. These solutions address a range of concerns, including anti-aging, UV protection, brightening, moisturizing, and calming effects, as well as promoting hair health. Despite its potential, research on the cosmetic applications of Z. jujuba is still in its early stages, with only one clinical trial to date focusing on its skin-brightening effects. This review aims to consolidate the current and emerging research on the applications of jujube in conventional and medical cosmetics, highlighting its potential in enhancing skin and hair wellness. By providing a comprehensive overview, it seeks to pave the way for further studies and innovations in utilizing jujube for personal care. Full article

Brazil is the largest producer in the world of the species Agave sisalana, sisal. The residue of the sisal, which is the result of the extraction of fibers from its leaves, represents 95% of its weight. Considering that sisal leaves have high concentrations of sapogenins and aiming at a future phytotherapeutic, in this study, the alcoholic fraction of sisal, AFS, was developed, and the sapogenins were characterized. In vitro, the cytotoxicity (MTT) and the anti-inflammatory effect of AFS (phagocytosis and hemolysis inhibition) were evaluated. In vivo, the analgesic (formalin test—FT) and anti-inflammatory (paw edema test—PET) activities of AFS, orally, and the cream containing AFS, topical, were analyzed. The results demonstrated that AFS contains hecogenin and tigogenin and is not cytotoxic. In vitro, 0.5, 1, and 2 mg/mL of AFS showed anti-inflammatory activity similar to the positive control (PC). In the FT, the dose of 25 mg/kg did not differ from the PC in the neurogenic phase (p > 0.05). In the PET, 25 and 50 mg/kg of AFS differed from the negative control (NC) (p < 0.05), and the cream with AFS (5 mg/g) showed activity similar to the PC. The therapeutic activities of AFS probably result from sapogenins. In the future, we expect to develop an anti-inflammatory from the thousands of tons of sisal waste discarded in Brazil. Full article

Inflammatory acne vulgaris (IAV) is a common skin condition characterized by the presence of reddish, inflamed, and painful lesions on the skin. IAV can drastically affect individuals, specifically their self-esteem, psychological health, and quality of their life in general. Despite new advances in the field, traditional treatment modalities withstand many challenges. Hence, in the current study, we sought to assess the efficacy and safety of a new pulsed wave mode of the fractional microneedling radiofrequency device in the treatment of IAV. This advanced technique employs insulated microneedles to administer energy to the deep dermis without causing damage to the epidermis. Eighty patients (40 males, 40 females, age 21 ± 3, Fitzpatrick skin type III and IV), with acne severity ranging from moderate to severe, were employed in this trial. They were randomly assigned into two groups, 40 patients each. The treated group (A) underwent four sessions of fractionated microneedle RF, 1.5-month apart, whereas group B was designated as the control group that received placebo treatment. Six months following the last session, the degree of improvement assessed by the quantity of IAV lesions and the overall skin appearance in terms of facial pores, sebum excretion, scar, skin tone, and texture. The RF-treated group showed significant improvement compared to the control group after the follow-up period (p-value = 0.0071). Regarding safety, very mild adverse effects were reported, such as discomfort during the session, pinpoint hemorrhage, and erythema, with no major side effects such as burns, scarring, hyperpigmentation, or hypopigmentation were reported. Thus, our data suggest a potential role of the fractional microneedling radiofrequency device in IAV treatment that is both effective and safe. Full article

Green soybean (Glycine max L.) seed contains a high procyanidin content and high antioxidant activity. Moreover, ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) has proved to be advantageous in providing high extraction efficiency. Hence, this study aimed to extract procyanidins from green soybean seeds (GSSs) using UAE. This study also evaluated the inhibitory activities of tyrosinase and the cytotoxic effects of crude procyanidin extract. The extract exhibited maximum levels of bioactive components and antioxidant capacity when subjected to a temperature of 15 °C and an extraction time of 20 min. The crude procyanidin extract at a concentration of 10 mg/mL inhibited the tyrosinase enzyme by more than 60%, and the half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) value obtained for the extract was 6.85 ± 0.81 mg/mL. This result was much greater than the IC₅₀ value obtained for kojic acid (0.089 ± 0.08 mg/mL), which was used as a positive control. For the cytotoxicity assessment, the results indicated that the crude procyanidin extract showed no cytotoxicity and actually stimulated the growth of human skin fibroblast cells. More than 80% of the bioactive compounds (total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), procyanidin content (PC)) and antioxidant activities (DPPH and FRAP) of the crude extract powder were retained at 38.68 ± 0.01 mg GAE/g, 16.07 ± 0.01 mg CAE/g, 9.24 ± 0.01 mg PC/g, 359.8 ± 0.72 μM Trolox eq/g, and 1640 ± 2.86 μM Trolox eq/g, respectively, after 12 weeks of storage at 25 °C. The crude procyanidin extract powder was then included in a facial serum formulation and tested for pH value and physical evaluation. The stability of the crude procyanidin extract facial serum was shown to be greater for bioactive compounds and antioxidant activity when stored at a temperature of 4 °C than when stored at a temperature of 25 °C. These results suggest that the GSS extracts obtained via ultrasonication show promise for use in cosmeceutical formulations for whitening skincare products. Full article

Prostaglandin D₂ (PGD₂) levels are high in the balding areas of human scalps, and PGD₂ has been found to inhibit hair growth. It is known that the inhibition of the PGD₂ receptor can promote hair growth by preventing hair follicles from entering the catagen phase. Thus, we identified an antagonist of DP2, the receptor for PGD2, as a potential treatment for hair loss using an AI-based DeepZema^® drug development program. In this study, we identified that the DP₂ antagonist (DP2A) could ameliorate alopecia in human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) that were stimulated by dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a known molecule related to hair loss. We observed that the DP2A promoted wound healing efficiency and increased alkaline phosphatase levels in the HFDPCs that were damaged with DHT. In addition, we found that the DP2A diminished the reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels generated in the DHT-damaged HFDPCs. We confirmed that the DP2A effectively recovered the membrane potential of mitochondria in these cells. We also demonstrated that the DP2A enhanced the phosphorylation levels of both Akt and ERK in the HFDPCs that were damaged with DHT. Notably, we revealed that the DP2A slightly enlarged the three-dimensional spheroid size in these cells and confirmed that the DP2A improved hair growth in the organ culture of human hair follicles. Taken together, we suggest that DP2A has therapeutic effects on HFDPCs that are damaged by DHT and holds promise as a potential treatment for treating hair loss. Full article

The Bee Cosmetic Surgery Scale (BCSS) is a novel clinical tool designed to assess the psychopathological, psychosocial, and decision-making factors involved in accepting cosmetic procedures. This prospective, multicenter study aimed to propose and validate the BCSS, which considers aesthetic aspects, personal pathological history, and psychopathological implications leading to the acceptance of invasive or non-invasive aesthetic interventions. The study included 281 participants aged 18–66 years, divided into three groups: non-invasive cosmetic surgery (NICS), invasive and non-invasive cosmetic surgery (INICS), and individuals who had not undergone cosmetic surgery (NCS). Participants were randomly selected from patients visiting plastic surgery services and various medical services in Oradea, Romania, between October 2022 and March 2024. The BCSS comprises 20 items with Likert-type responses, ranging from one to five. The Multidimensional Scale of Perceived Social Support (MSPSS) was used to measure perceived social support. The BCSS aims to elucidate the patient’s desire for aesthetic procedures, whether it stems from an impulsive act, warrants a longer decision-making period, or necessitates addressing psychological or psychiatric conditions before scheduling the procedure. The scale enables cosmetic surgeons to assess whether the patient has been adequately informed and understands the risks and complications associated with the cosmetic surgical procedure. Full article

The purpose of this research was to assess the effectiveness of PRP injections into facial skin and to identify which of the studied blood parameters can affect the effectiveness of the procedure. The research involved 50 women aged 20 to 52 years who received intradermal PRP injections into facial skin. A general examination, complete blood count, and d-dimer, estradiol, and insulin in the blood serum were measured before the procedure, and assessment of the skin’s condition using a facial skin analyzer, assessment of midface volume changes using the Midface Volume Deficit Scale, assessment of aesthetic improvement by the doctor and the patient (Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale, GAIS) before and 1 month after the procedure were conducted for all the subjects involved in the research. According to the GAIS, both from the doctor’s and the patients’ perspectives, the majority noted some improvement in the skin condition after the procedure; however, according to the skin analyzer data, there were no statistically significant changes. A total of 56% of the patients displayed improvement in the midface volume, and this was observed in patients with a lower blood platelet count (≤259 × 10⁹/L) and a higher level of estradiol (>99 pg/mL) before the procedure. No undesirable effects were detected after the procedure. Full article

Recent data suggest that dandruff might be associated with dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. This mini review summarizes the microbiome changes seen with the dandruff condition, as well as different solutions for dandruff control and their effects on the scalp microbiome in relation to in vivo efficacy. Since zinc pyrithione has been banned from cosmetics in the EU, the medium-chain fatty acid ester propanediol caprylate is a new option, in addition to the remaining conventional ingredients: piroctone olamine, climbazole, and salicylic acid. The ester is rapidly cleaved by Malassezia hydrolases in the external milieu, thereby releasing active caprylic acid. In addition to its auto-regulatory effects on Malassezia, propanediol caprylate is also able to influence the bacterial microbiota towards a healthier scalp microbiome. In vivo data have shown an efficacy comparable to climbazole and piroctone olamine. In vivo additive and synergistic effects in different combinations allow reductions in the concentration of conventional agents. Surprisingly, a new effect of a lasting healthier scalp has been identified in connection with ester use, in contrast to the usual return of dandruff experienced upon the discontinuation of anti-dandruff shampoo with conventional actives. We also report on new data from an unpublished comparative study on two propanediol monoesters confirming the long-lasting effect. Full article

The current research is focused on the discovery and optimization of an effective cosmetic carrier of alpha-bisabolol as a first step in the development of a cosmetic product with cleansing and antimicrobial action for facial skin hygiene. A micellar solution of Poloxamer 407 was selected as a cosmetic base because of the good washing ability, easy application, and high tolerability of this polymeric surfactant. The solubilization capacity of a 5% micellar solution with respect to α-bisabolol was investigated by applying varying solubilization techniques and increasing concentrations of the oily active substance. The test samples were subjected to an accelerated physical stability test, viscosimetry, dynamic light scattering (DLS), electrophoretic light scattering (ELS), foamability test, and antimicrobial screening. Over the course of this research, the advantage of the film-hydration method over direct solubilization was demonstrated by the narrower size distribution and smaller hydrodynamic size of the micellar nano-carriers (ranging from 29.02 to 116.5 nm) and the respective higher physical stability of the dispersions. The optimized composition was found to be suitable for application on large skin areas in terms of viscosity in the temperature range from 20 °C to 40 °C (3.4–2.3 mPa.s). Preservation of the washing capacity of the micellar solution in the presence of solubilized α-bisabolol was established. The active composition demonstrated inhibitory activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli and fungicidal activity against Candida albicans. This study concludes that the optimal concentration of α-bisabolol to be solubilized in a 5% Poloxamer 407 micellar solution by the film-hydration technique is 1%, considering the desirable physical endurance and antimicrobial activity. Full article

A key functionality for cleansing wipes is their efficiency in removing dirt and microbial contamination from the skin to safe or non-detectable levels, traditionally determined using the gravimetric method, which has been reported to be prone to experimental errors. This study evaluates the efficiency of a water-based cleansing wipe, WaterWipes^® (WaterWipes, UC, Drogheda, Ireland), for removing synthetic faecal matter (Feclone^TM, SiliClone Creations LLC, Havertown, PA, United States) and Escherichia coli (NCTC 10538) from volunteers’ skin, the former using a dermal analytical device called the Antera 3D^TM camera (Miravex Ltd., Dublin, Ireland), and the latter using standard microbiological methods. Feclone^TM was applied to participants’ forearms and the Antera 3D^TM camera captured detailed images of the skin surface before and after wiping. The Antera 3D^TM camera approach was found to be effective in measuring cleaning efficiency, with the wipe removing all detectable traces of the Feclone^TM applied. The total pore area (mm²), pore count, and total pore volume (mm³) in test participants post-wiping were observed to be reduced on average by 39.05%, 34.39%, and 39.98%, respectively. The wipe removed 99.99% of E. coli (NCTC 10538) applied, as measured using the microbial plate count method. In conclusion, the Antera 3D^TM camera method was observed to be effective in evaluating removal of topically applied Feclone^TM. Full article

Galloyl–RGD is a novel compound that combines gallic acid with RGD peptides (arginine, glycine, and asparaginic acid) to overcome the problems associated with gallic acid, such as instability at high temperatures and low solubility. In this study, we investigated the effects and molecular mechanisms of action of galloyl–RGD on UVB-induced skin photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts-neonatal (HDF-n). Galloyl–RGD increased collagen synthesis by inhibiting UVB-induced MMP-1 via inhibiting extracellular signal-regulated kinase and Jun N-terminal kinase and their downstream mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling, which are known to be representative photoaging mechanisms. The results of this study will be helpful for understanding the anti-photoaging effect and mechanism of galloyl–RGD and its future applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Full article

Skin grows old due to intrinsic factors, such as age and associated hormonal changes, and external factors, like solar radiation and chemical substances to which we are exposed. With age, skin shows thinning, laxity, pallor, increased dryness, and the appearance of wrinkles, attributed to a decrease in collagen and elastin produced by fibroblasts. Several theories explain skin aging, including the free radical formation, neuroendocrine, and mitochondrial decline theories. Based on a scientific understanding of skin behavior, different in vitro methods are used to evaluate the effects of new ingredients in cosmetics. Commonly used methods include anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity alongside techniques utilizing skin cells or 3D models. Although these methods are recognized and widely used, they lack standardization. In this review, a literature search has been conducted to examine the characteristics and variations of these methods across the laboratories. A key issue identified in this review is that many papers provide insufficient detail regarding their protocols. Moreover, the number of studies using cells is less significant than the ones determining enzyme inhibition. Our findings revealed that, in many cases, there is limited information available, underscoring the urgent need to initiate a comprehensive standardization process for the methodologies used to demonstrate anti-aging activity. Full article

Forest wealth, combined with innovative cosmetic applications, allows for the use of non-timber forest products like copal resin, diversifying resource use, promoting sustainable practices, preserving ecosystems, and generating income. The aim of this study was to evaluate a facial cream and a body gel formulated with essential oil extracted from copal resin obtained from agroforestry systems to determine their quality and consumer acceptance. Copal resin was collected from a silvopastoral system in Izúcar de Matamoros, Puebla, Mexico. Protocols were developed to ensure quality, safety, and efficacy, adhering to Mexican official standards, and accelerated stability tests were conducted to determine shelf life. Microbiological and irritability tests were performed to assess safety. Hedonic tests along with a random forest model were employed to identify the most important characteristics for consumer acceptance. The results indicated that both products met quality parameters regarding color, aroma, viscosity, and pH, and exhibited a shelf life of two years. Both products were free from harmful microorganisms, making them suitable for human application. Hydration, aroma, spreadability, and irritability were the most crucial variables for achieving higher consumer acceptance. Cosmetics can be formulated with copal resin essential oil. Full article

Facial hyperpigmentation is a highly prevalent dermatological condition, characterized by dark spots on the skin resulting from excess melanin production. Hyperpigmentation significantly impacts patients’ quality of life and self-esteem. Current treatments often present disadvantages linked to poor product tolerability. A topical cosmetic approach combining three lightening active ingredients (tranexamic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C) offers a new option for treating dark spots on the skin. The present in-use test under dermatological control evaluated the clinical safety and efficacy of a cream and serum containing these three ingredients, formulated with hyaluronic acid for enhanced delivery, stability, and efficacy. A total of 22 Caucasian patients with facial hyperpigmentation, both male and female, aged between 45 and 67 years, applied the cream and serum for 8 weeks. Clinical assessments, colorimetric evaluations, standardized photography, and self-assessment questionnaires were used to measure outcomes. No serious adverse effects were recorded, and the incidence of local adverse effects was low, highlighting good tolerability of the investigated test items. In most participants, significant improvements in hyperpigmented areas were recorded. Clinical scoring by the dermatologist investigator indicated a statistically significant 13% reduction in color intensity and a 6% reduction in the size of dark spots after 8 weeks of treatment. Colorimetric evaluation showed a statistically significant 1% increase in luminosity (L* parameter) and an 8% improvement in the Individual Typological Angle (ITA°) in endpoint, indicating lighter skin spots. Subjective assessments reflected high user satisfaction, with 95% of participants noting improvements in skin hydration and luminosity, and 77% reporting a reduced appearance of dark spots. Overall, the present work supports the use of tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C as an effective and well-tolerated combined topical management option for hyperpigmentation. This combination offers a viable alternative to classical whiteners for individuals seeking to reduce facial skin coloration imbalance and improve skin tone. Full article

Skin aging is a complex, multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Understanding the molecular mechanisms underlying skin aging is crucial for developing effective anti-aging strategies. Dermal stem cells play a pivotal role in maintaining skin homeostasis, but their functionality is compromised with aging. This study investigated the impact of aging on dermal stem cells and explored the potential of natural extracts in modulating their biological characteristics. Using bulk RNA barcoding and sequencing (BRB-seq), we identified differentially expressed genes (DEGs) between young and aged dermal stem cells, revealing alterations in cellular processes, including cell proliferation, ECM synthesis, and RNA splicing. We also demonstrated that a natural extract, comprising callus cells and Alpine rose leaf extracts, influenced RNA splicing in aged dermal stem cells, leading to improved dermal structure and integrity in vitro. Our findings suggest that natural extracts may exert their effects through senolytic activity and the modulation of RNA splicing, a process crucial to gene expression and cellular function. This study underscores the potential of integrating high-throughput transcriptomics in understanding skin aging, presenting new avenues for the development of innovative, sustainable, and effective anti-aging strategies. Full article

The cosmetics industry is undergoing a shift towards sustainability and efficacy, driven by consumer demand for eco-friendly and safe products. This paper introduces SVX, a spider silk-inspired raw material intended to transform cosmetic formulations. Produced through fermentation, SVX is a biopolymer composed of self-assembled proteins characterized by a porous structure for delivering active ingredients safely to the skin. The study utilized in vitro and ex vivo methods to assess SVX’s ability to protect against oxidative stress, enhance skin hydration, and support ingredient delivery. Safety assays, including the HET-CAM, patch test, and HRIPT, demonstrated that SVX is non-irritating and safe for topical application. Additionally, FTIR analysis confirmed SVX’s capacity for sustained release of active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, over an 8 h period. Results showed that SVX significantly improved skin barrier protection and exhibited superior antioxidant properties compared to control formulations. Its biocompatibility, along with a vegan and biodegradable composition, aligns with the principles of sustainability, with over 60% biodegradability achieved within 10 days. Furthermore, SVX displayed antioxidant efficacy approximately 130 times greater than L-ascorbic acid, based on DPPH assay results. These findings suggest that SVX offers a versatile and sustainable solution for skincare formulations, combining environmental responsibility with benefits for skin health and performance. Full article

Objective: The aim of this study was to systematically review the safety and effectiveness of the injectable biostimulators dermal fillers calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA) and polycaprolactone (PCL) in facial esthetic procedures. Materials and Methods: Comprehensive electronic searches were executed across six academic databases. The primary outcome focused on safety by examining studies that reported the incidence of adverse events (AEs). The secondary outcome gauged the satisfaction of the patients and injectors by validated esthetic scales. To evaluate biases, the Joanna Briggs Institute Checklist tools were employed. Results: We included a total of 79 studies. In the quantitative assessment of the CaHA, out of 5032 injected patients, 21.8% manifested early AEs, 0.85% experienced delayed reactions, and 0.27% had severe complications. Within the PCL group, consisting of 1119 patients, 83.3% exhibited early AEs, 5.6% had delayed reactions, and none had serious complications. Regarding esthetic satisfaction outcome, both products presented favorable results, but a limited number of studies assessed these data. In the studies evaluated qualitatively, a broad array of AEs were cataloged. Conclusions: The occurrence of serious AEs associated with CaHA and PCL fillers is relatively low. Both CaHA and PCL fillers exhibit favorable safety profiles, with most AEs being transient in nature. Full article

(1) Background: The demand for body-contouring procedures has surged, with lipolysis emerging as a common technique for excess fat removal. Laser-assisted lipolysis (LAL) has gained attention as a potential alternative to surgical fat removal (SFR), offering perceived advantages in safety and efficacy. However, the comparative benefits of LAL and SFR remain uncertain. (2) Objective: To conduct a review of the existing literature comparing the efficacy, safety, and patient satisfaction of LAL and SFR. (3) Methods: A comprehensive search of major electronic databases was conducted to identify studies comparing LAL and SFR for body-contouring procedures. Studies were included if they were published in English, involved human subjects, and reported outcomes for LAL and SFR. All studies were classified according to the Oxford Center for Evidence-Based Medicine evidence hierarchy (4) Results: LAL may not be a safer and more effective option than SFR. However, the evidence for these differences was limited by the quality of the studies and the heterogeneity of the results. (5) Conclusions: This review suggests that LAL may not be a safer and more effective option than SFR for body-contouring procedures because LAL is associated with higher risks of complications such as burns and scarring, whereas SFR offers a more established safety profile and consistent efficacy. Full article

This review aims to provide a detailed overview of the botanical, phytochemical, and dermatological properties of Juglans regia (J. regia). The entire tree contains a wealth of chemical compounds, including phenols, tannins, alkaloids, saponins, reducing sugars, and amino acids, which contribute to its significant nutritional and pharmacological value. Extracts and oils from all parts of J. regia have been studied for their effects on various skin conditions, demonstrating antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, and chemoprotective properties. Additionally, these substances have shown potential in promoting wound healing, anti-aging, skin hydration, anti-tyrosinase activity, and hair dyeing. These benefits have been evaluated in various in vitro and in vivo studies. The therapeutic potential of J. regia suggests that its components could be integrated into treatment protocols and skincare routines. However, to optimize effectiveness and safety, future research should focus on in vivo studies in human subjects to determine the ideal concentrations and formulations of J. regia active compounds for specific skin conditions. Full article

The present study aimed to analyze the antifungal, antioxidant, and irritant potential of citronella oil, both isolated and combined with caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE), for topical oral candidiasis. The antioxidant potential was evaluated using two methods, the DPPH test and the reducing power test (FRAP), while the irritant potential of the solutions was assessed through the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). The DPPH test (IC50) values for the CITRO III + CAPE III combination were 32 ± 9 mg/mL, and for isolated CAPE, 13 ± 3 mg/mL. The results from the FRAP method revealed a low iron-reducing power for the combination of 1.25 mg/mL of citronella and 0.0775 mg/mL of CAPE (CITRO III + CAPE III), showing no significant difference compared to the isolated solution of 0.15 mg/mL of CAPE. The antibacterial activity of CAPE and isolated citronella in vitro against microorganisms was evaluated using two methods: microdilution and biofilm assay. The results showed that the MIC and MFC values were 0.5 mg/mL for citronella at both tested times (24 h and 48 h). For CAPE, the MFC values were 0.031 mg/mL. For the biofilm assay, the isolated compounds and combinations at 1 min and 6 h showed significantly different results from the controls (p < 0.05). Furthermore, the HET-CAM results demonstrated the absence of irritability. Based on these premises, the antifungal and antioxidant actions, and absence of irritability were proven. Moreover, this work presents a natural antifungal of interest to the pharmaceutical industry. Full article

Economic and environmental issues translating into energy costs and pollution within the production environment are increasingly attracting attention. Industrial Energy Efficiency (IEE) is gaining ever-higher importance within production environments. Since cosmetic consumers and companies are becoming increasingly sensitive to sustainability, the cosmetic field is working to reduce the environmental and social impact along the whole supply chain. Furthermore, IEE actions in business processes can lead to several medium- and long-term economic and environmental benefits. This paper is the first work in the literature presenting a real-case application of energy analysis and modeling to achieve better energy performances in a cosmetics production process. Thus, in the body of knowledge, it contributes by providing a real case of good practice to be benchmarked for future IEE interventions in cosmetics manufacturing processes. The work has been conducted by analyzing the production process’s energy consumption and developing an energy model of a selected machine (i.e., a turbo-emulsifier). The analysis and modeling performed aimed at assessing the different operational phases of the machine and evaluating the different behaviors of the data. Finally, the results allowed us to propose possible improvements to be applied to the production process to achieve better energy performances. Full article

Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular form of tattooing applied to the eyebrows, eyelids, and lips for corrective and aesthetic purposes. It also has medical applications, such as reconstructing the breast areola, mimicking hair follicles on the head, and covering scars and vitiligo. Unlike body tattoos, PMU often requires reapplication to maintain color density and shape, as the pigments fade over time. This fading is likely due to the characteristics of PMU colorants rather than the application methods or apparatuses. The aim of our study was to assess the application depth of PMU colorants and tattoo ink after procedures. PMU colorants typically contain larger pigment particles in their composition compared to the nanoparticles found in traditional tattoo inks. We applied both tattoo ink and PMU colorants on SKH-1 mice using a PMU apparatus and a tattoo apparatus. To clarify the semi-permanent nature of PMU compared to the more permanent body tattoos, skin biopsies were performed at various intervals throughout this study. The results showed that PMU and tattoo ink were placed at approximately the same depth but exhibited key differences in behavior. PMU with larger inorganic pigments fades over time, while tattoos with smaller, stable organic pigments ensure permanence. Full article

Introduction: This study was conducted to question the findings of a prior study published in Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (JDD) in September 2023, which reported that a topical firming and toning body lotion (FTB—SkinMedica^®, Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company, Irvine, CA, USA) upregulated several genes in a UV-irradiated 3D full-thickness human skin model, outperforming other products, including TransFORM Body Treatment with TriHex Technology^® (ATF—Alastin Skincare^®, a Galderma company, Fort Worth, TX, USA). Given the unique response reported for FTB, we conducted this study to assess the reproducibility of these results and explore gene expression at multiple time points, along with validating protein expression in an ex vivo model. Materials and Methods: Experiments were conducted using an ex vivo model with photodamaged skin from facelift patients, under an Institutional Review Board-approved study. Skin samples were processed, cultured in transwells with Skin Media, and treated daily with either TransFORM or FTB for 7 days. A control group was left untreated. Gene expression was assessed using RT-PCR on days 1 and 3 and using immunofluorescence after 3 and 7 days of treatment. Skin samples were fixed, paraffin-embedded, sectioned, and stained with an anti-tropoelastin antibody. Fluorescence detection and imaging were conducted to assess protein expression changes. Results: Gene expression data from our study and the initial study showed a few similarities but multiple discrepancies. As opposed to results previously reported at only the 24 h time point, our study was completed at multiple time points and showed a complete reversal of many of these results. For example, COL1A1 expression at 24 h was similar for FTB in both studies but differed for TransFORM, which showed higher levels at 24 h in our study. At day 3, COL1A1 expression decreased markedly for FTB and was sustained for TransFORM. Other genes, such as COL3A1, COL5, ELN, VEGFC, ATG7, ATG12, BECN1, POMP, PSMB5, and PSMB6, exhibited varying expression patterns between the two studies and across different time points. From a translational perspective, histological analysis showed that TransFORM enhanced elastin fiber presence in the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) more effectively than FTB at both days 3 and 7. FTB-treated samples maintained a gap in the DEJ, while TransFORM-treated samples exhibited increased cellular proliferation and DEJ undulation, indicative of a healthier regenerative response. Conclusion: This study highlights the problems of examining data and drawing conclusions using a single point of examination. In addition, when a study reports positive results for only one product among a range of eight competitive products, further questioning is essential to exclude the possibility of the experimental model favoring that product. The additional 3-day time point and further translational examination of histological changes paint a completely different picture to that reported in the prior publication. TransFORM outperformed FTB in most gene expressions and histological parameters when assessed over multiple time points in a physiologically relevant ex vivo model. Full article

Oxidative stress is a primary contributor to human skin aging, while antioxidants are known to mitigate skin damage related to aging processes. In this study, we investigated the possible action of trifluoromethyl phenethyl mesalazine (TFM), an antioxidizing agent, on skin aging processes, including skin wrinkles and pigmentation. Our data revealed that TFM exerted a strong free radical scavenging capability and notably inhibited melanin production. Moreover, TFM downregulated the UV-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and interleukin-6 in cultured human skin fibroblasts. Furthermore, in a clinical study with 24 women, TFM significantly reduced skin wrinkles and improved skin brightness compared to a placebo. These findings highlight the previously unrecognized effects of TFM on skin health by mitigating skin aging processes associated with oxidative damage. Full article

The burgeoning interest in natural components in personal care products has led to significant research and development of ingredients such as plant extracts, antioxidants, peptides, and probiotics. These components have been recognized for their potential to enhance skin health through various mechanisms, addressing consumer demand for products that are both effective and benign. Plant extracts, known for their rich composition of bioactive compounds, offer a myriad of benefits including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, making them invaluable in skin care formulations. Antioxidants, derived from both plants and other natural sources, play a pivotal role in protecting the skin from oxidative damage, thereby preventing premature aging and promoting skin vitality. Bioactive peptides have garnered attention owing to their multifunctional activities that include promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting enzymes responsible for skin degradation, and reducing inflammation, thereby contributing to skin regeneration and anti-aging. Probiotics have expanded their utility beyond gut health to skin care, where they help in maintaining skin microbiome balance, thus enhancing skin barrier function and potentially mitigating various skin disorders. The purpose of this review is to explore the individual roles of plant extracts, antioxidants, peptides, and probiotics in personal care products, while emphasizing their synergistic effects when combined. By integrating these natural components, this paper aims to highlight the potential for developing innovative skincare formulations that not only address specific skin concerns but also contribute to overall skin health, aligning with the increasing consumer preference for natural and holistic skincare solutions. Full article

The demand for naturally derived cosmetic ingredients is rising as consumers increasingly prioritize green and environmentally friendly products. Naturally derived ingredients, such as plant extracts rich in polyphenols like flavonoids and tannins, are often perceived as more sustainable and beneficial for skincare. Epilobium angustifolium (fireweed) is a circumpolar plant with traditional uses in Northern and Eastern Europe known for its skincare benefits. This review explores the chemical composition, traditional uses, and potential skincare benefits of E. angustifolium, focusing on its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Literature surveys, ethnopharmacological research, and database searches were conducted to investigate the properties of E. angustifolium. The plant contains various compounds such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, tannins, steroids, and triterpenes, each with potential skincare benefits. Pharmacological reports suggest that E. angustifolium exhibits antioxidant and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare products. The availability of E. angustifolium in the market as a raw material for cosmetics offers opportunities for formulators to create innovative products with skin-conditioning and anti-inflammatory properties. Understanding the chemical composition and bioactivity of E. angustifolium can guide the development of effective and sustainable skincare formulations. Full article

Chios mastic gum (CMG), the resin of Pistacia lentiscus var. Chia, is a product with great ethnopharmacological and economic significance. This study attempts to investigate, for the first time, the activity of CMG, its fractions and isolated compounds against specific enzymes, which play pivotal roles in the degradation of proteins contained in skin connective tissue. Initially, crude CMG was subjected to extraction, fractionation and isolation through different chromatographic techniques to obtain the acidic and neutral fraction of terpenes. Additionally, the characteristic and major active triterpene acids of CMG, masticadienonic and isomasticadienonic acids (MNA, IMNA) were isolated in pure form. All samples were analysed by means of High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography (HPTLC) with four distinct development systems to obtain their constituents’ profile. Finally, samples were tested for their ability to inhibit the elastase and collagenase enzymes. According to our findings, for collagenase, a mixture of MNA and IMNA demonstrated the most potent activity with an IC₅₀ value of 31.07 μg/mL, while for elastase CMG’s acidic fraction provided the most promising results with an IC₅₀ value of 17.30 μg/mL. Overall, these results attempt to fill the gap in scientific knowledge about the use of CMG and its constituents in skincare and cosmetic products. Full article

Recent advancements in aesthetic medicine offer innovative cosmetic solutions to enhance patient skin quality and appearance. Advanced treatment options enable practitioners to effectively address skin aging signs, pigmentation imbalance, and loss of elasticity in ambulatory and home-based care regimens. Exosomes (nanoscale cell-derived vesicles) transport a variety of biomolecules and are pivotal in physiological intercellular communication. Importantly, exosomes have recently emerged as key endogenous players in tissular regeneration. More broadly (from an active ingredient purity standpoint), exosomes, stem cell secretomes, and cell culture-conditioned media have been clinically proven to exert multifaceted beneficial topical effects (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, skin rejuvenation). Therefore, human, animal, and plant-derived exosomes or other refined sub-cellular biological fractions are gaining substantial interest within the aesthetic and cosmetic industries. Notably, such approaches are thought to be among the most promising novel contenders for advanced, biologically inspired skin prejuvenation and rejuvenation care. The present narrative review summarizes the latest clinically oriented research on exosomes and cell culture-conditioned media, highlighting their mechanisms of action in various topical applications. Furthermore, it explores the innovation landscape and currently commercially available products on the global cosmetic market and discusses the potential future applications of advanced, biologically inspired ingredients in the medical aesthetic industry. Full article

Plant oils are currently not only an essential element of the healthy eating pyramid, but also a valuable cosmetic material, which, in line with the eco-friendly trends of recent years, is effectively replacing petroleum-derived fatty ingredients. The fatty acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, and vitamins (e.g., A and E) present in plant oils contribute to their health-promoting properties, including antioxidant activity. This study assessed the contents of carotenoids and chlorophylls, as well as the antioxidant properties of 10 selected plant oils. Fenugreek seed oil was shown to have the highest total content of carotenoids, and the most β-carotene. Chokeberry and rosehip oils also contained large amounts of provitamin A, in comparison to the other oils tested. Lycopene was the dominant compound in black currant and rosehip seed oils. Among chlorophyll pigments, elderberry oil had the highest content of chlorophyll a, while black currant oil had large amounts of both chlorophyll a and chlorophyll b. The antioxidant properties of the cold pressed oils obtained from selected seeds and fruit stones, assessed by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy as the ability to interact with the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) free radical, can be ranked as follows: pomegranate > fenugreek > poppy > black currant > chokeberry > rosehip > perilla > elderberry > carrot > fig. The results of this study showed that these plant oils are valuable natural materials with antioxidant properties, which can be an important complement to synthetic antioxidants due to their additional skin care properties. Full article