Cosmetics

8 pages, 219 KiB

Open AccessReview

Emerging and Pioneering AI Technologies in Aesthetic Dermatology: Sketching a Path Toward Personalized, Predictive, and Proactive Care

by Diala Haykal

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 206; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060206 (registering DOI) - 26 Nov 2024

Abstract

Objectives: Artificial intelligence (AI) is transforming aesthetic dermatology, introducing new opportunities for personalized, predictive, and adaptive approaches in skin diagnostics, treatment planning, and patient management. This review examines AI’s evolving role in enhancing diagnostic precision, individualizing treatments, and supporting dynamic patient care, with [...] Read more.

Objectives: Artificial intelligence (AI) is transforming aesthetic dermatology, introducing new opportunities for personalized, predictive, and adaptive approaches in skin diagnostics, treatment planning, and patient management. This review examines AI’s evolving role in enhancing diagnostic precision, individualizing treatments, and supporting dynamic patient care, with a focus on practical implementation in clinical settings. Results: This piece highlights how AI-based imaging and predictive tools enable more precise diagnostics and tailored treatment protocols, leading to improved patient outcomes and satisfaction. Some of the key benefits of AI in aesthetic dermatology include the ability to detect subtle skin changes, simulate treatment outcomes, and adjust interventions in real time. However, this manuscript also addresses significant challenges that practitioners face, such as technical constraints, data privacy concerns, algorithmic biases, and financial barriers, which impact the accessibility and efficacy of AI across diverse patient populations. Conclusions: While AI holds significant potential to enhance aesthetic dermatology, its responsible integration requires addressing these challenges through clinician training, ethical guidelines, and robust data security measures. Effective use of AI will depend on collaboration between technology developers, clinicians, and regulatory bodies. Perspectives: Looking forward, the development of diverse, inclusive datasets and transparent, patient-centered AI models will be essential to ensure that AI’s benefits reach all patients equitably and safely. By prioritizing these factors, AI-driven technologies would become a reliable, accessible, and transformative element of aesthetic dermatology practice. Full article

13 pages, 3861 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Research on the Correlation Between Skin Elasticity Evaluation Parameters and Age

by Dandan Chen, Shipeng Yin, Xuelian Lu, Haokun Fu, Hongqi Gao and Suning Zhang

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 205; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060205 - 26 Nov 2024

Abstract

This study aims to explore the impact of aging on skin elasticity, a key biomechanical property that diminishes over time, using the Cutometer to assess viscoelastic parameters. Methods: Researchers analyzed 22 viscoelastic parameters from the facial skin of 60 women aged 18 to [...] Read more.

This study aims to explore the impact of aging on skin elasticity, a key biomechanical property that diminishes over time, using the Cutometer to assess viscoelastic parameters. Methods: Researchers analyzed 22 viscoelastic parameters from the facial skin of 60 women aged 18 to 70. Key Results: The findings indicate that relaxation phase parameters, particularly biological elasticity (R7), exhibited the strongest negative correlation with age (r = −0.62), signifying a notable decline in biological elasticity as women age. In contrast, maximum deformation during the first cycle (R0) and the total area under the upper curve after 10 cycles of deformation (F4) also showed significant negative correlations with age (r = −0.47, r = −0.48), suggesting that younger skin typically presents higher values. These correlations raise questions regarding practical applications, as the presence of moisturizers and emollients may alter the stratum corneum’s properties, thus impacting these measurements. Additionally, the ratio of delayed deformation to instantaneous deformation (R6) demonstrated a positive correlation with age (r = 0.49), indicating its potential as a marker for skin aging. Conclusions: This study highlights the critical role of relaxation phase parameters in accurately reflecting skin elasticity changes associated with aging. The results offer valuable insights for evaluating cosmetic efficacy, reinforcing the need for a nuanced understanding of how various parameters interact. These findings contribute to the ongoing development of more effective anti-aging treatments and products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Non-invasive Sensing of Skin–Cosmetic Interactions Using Optical Methods)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

14 pages, 5483 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Potential of Deer Placenta Extract in Hair Cell Regeneration and Its Nanoniosome-Microspicule Gel as a Transfollicular Delivery System

by Worranan Rangsimawong, Sureewan Duangjit, Phaijit Sritananuwat, Tanasait Ngawhirunpat and Praneet Opanasopit

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 204; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060204 - 26 Nov 2024

Viewed by 228

Abstract

Background: Deer placenta extract (DPE), rich in bioactive macromolecules, promotes regenerative effects in both normal and damaged cells. However, effective delivery of these macromolecules through the skin remains a challenge. Objectives: To investigate the potential of DPE in regenerating hair cells and to [...] Read more.

Background: Deer placenta extract (DPE), rich in bioactive macromolecules, promotes regenerative effects in both normal and damaged cells. However, effective delivery of these macromolecules through the skin remains a challenge. Objectives: To investigate the potential of DPE in regenerating hair cells and to develop a nanoniosome (NS) and microspicule (MS) formulation as a promising transfollicular delivery system. Methods: The bioactivity of DPE was assessed in human follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells, including cells damaged by chemotherapy. The NS-MS formulation was designed to deliver biomacromolecules from DPE into skin and hair follicles. Results: DPE at 2000 µg/mL exhibited no cytotoxicity and significantly enhanced proliferation in both normal and cisplatin-treated HFDP cells. The DPE-loaded NSs displayed nanovesicles with a uniform size distribution and a negative surface charge. When incorporated into the MS gel, NS-MS demonstrated a synergistic effect, significantly enhancing the transdermal and transfollicular delivery of macromolecular protein into the skin layers and hair follicles. Conclusions: DPE promoted hair cell proliferation and facilitated the recovery of hair cells damaged by chemotherapy, especially when formulated into the NS-MS system, which effectively delivered bioactive macromolecules to the target site. This suggests its potential role in promoting hair regrowth. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

21 pages, 6438 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Retinol and Hydroxyasiaticoside Synergistically Relieve Histamine-Induced Atopic Dermatitis Activity by Repressing TRPV1, L1R1, and CD130 Targets

by Qin Liu, Peng Shu, Qingle Song, Zhenhai Huang, Jiyu Weng, Lanyue Zhang, Yuan Wang and Qingqing Liu

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 203; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060203 - 25 Nov 2024

Viewed by 177

Abstract

Background: Retinol, an important bioactive substance with multiple physiological functions such as promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase activity, alleviating oxidative stress, regulating gene expression, and promoting epidermal cell proliferation, has a significant effect on skin damage recovery. Hydroxyasiaticoside, a triterpenoid saponin [...] Read more.

Background: Retinol, an important bioactive substance with multiple physiological functions such as promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase activity, alleviating oxidative stress, regulating gene expression, and promoting epidermal cell proliferation, has a significant effect on skin damage recovery. Hydroxyasiaticoside, a triterpenoid saponin derived from Centella asiatica (L.) Urb., is closely related to the secretion of collagen types I and III, and possesses multiple biological activities, including moisturizing, antioxidants, anti-apoptosis, neuroprotection, anti-inflammation, and the promotion of wound healing. It plays a particularly prominent role in reducing oxidative stress in wounds and inducing vasodilatation. Objective: The aim of this study was to investigate the therapeutic efficacy of retinol combined with hydroxyasiaticoside in histamine-induced atopic dermatitis. Materials and Methods: The experiment was carried out using three different concentrations of a retinol and hydroxyasiaticoside mixed solution: low, medium, and high concentrations. After inducing atopic dermatitis in mice through histamine administration, these solutions were applied to the skin surface of the mice, and a comparative analysis was conducted with both the control group and the model group. The effect of combination therapy on atopic dermatitis was evaluated through histopathology, immunohistochemistry, and transcriptomic analysis. Results: The combination of retinol and hydroxyasiaticoside significantly attenuated histamine-induced scratching behaviors, alleviated the phenomenon of epidermal hyperplasia, and effectively reduced the proliferation, infiltration, and degranulation of mast cells. In addition, the combination inhibited the expression of relevant pro-inflammatory cytokines. Quantitative RNA-seq analysis revealed that the gene expression patterns were similar in different concentration groups. However, the medium dose group may be able to regulate skin inflammation by regulating upstream genes to inhibit autophagy-related pathways. Further GO analysis revealed that the low-dose group mainly affected metabolism-related genes, the medium-dose group affected more genes related to body systems, and the high-dose group was dominated by genes related to human diseases. Full article

21 pages, 1343 KiB

Open AccessReview

Peloids in Skin Care and Cosmeceuticals

by M. Lourdes Mourelle, Carmen P. Gómez and José L. Legido

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 202; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060202 - 22 Nov 2024

Viewed by 279

Abstract

Peloids are mixtures of clays, sediments, or peat with mineral–medicinal water or seawater, or salt-lake water used in spa therapy for different treatments, including dermatological ones. The origin of peloids can be natural; that is, they are formed in situ at the place [...] Read more.

Peloids are mixtures of clays, sediments, or peat with mineral–medicinal water or seawater, or salt-lake water used in spa therapy for different treatments, including dermatological ones. The origin of peloids can be natural; that is, they are formed in situ at the place where the thermal water emerges or on the shores of the sea or salt lake, or they are prepared ad hoc from high-quality materials, such as clays or peat. Peloids are also used as cosmeceuticals in skin care to treat different skin disorders and/or conditions, such as psoriasis, eczema, and other scaly disorders, sensitive skin, and acne. This review reports all available scientific data concerning the effects and specific activities of peloids in skin care and cosmeceuticals, providing a better understanding of the clinical and cosmetic benefits. Finally, the safety and regulation of peloids are also discussed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

20 pages, 1262 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Optimizing Antioxidant and Anti-Hyaluronidase Activities of Mixed Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa Extracts for Cosmetic Application

by Natthanan Phupaisan, Chadarat Ampasavate, Surapol Natakankitkul and Kanokwan Kiattisin

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 201; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060201 - 21 Nov 2024

Viewed by 378

Abstract

Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa extracts have demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, research on combining these three extracts in specific proportions to enhance their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase effects remains limited. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the [...] Read more.

Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa extracts have demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, research on combining these three extracts in specific proportions to enhance their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase effects remains limited. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts to maximize their combined antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase activities. A two-level full factorial design was used to identify the optimal concentration ratios of the mixed extracts. The results indicated that all extracts influenced antioxidant activity, with the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 0.5:6:2 mg/mL, respectively. In addition, all factors affected hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition, with the optimal proportions for C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 10:10:5 mg/mL to achieve the best inhibition. In a photostability study on individual extracts, mixed extracts, and mixed extracts combined with sodium metabisulfite and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, it was observed that preparing the mixed extracts and adding an antioxidant and a sunscreen agent helped reduce the photodegradation of phenolic compounds in the mixed extracts. Consequently, the stabilized mixed extracts could serve as raw materials in cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

22 pages, 11783 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Willaertia Lysate: A Hydrobiome-Biosourced Ingredient with Multi-Site Antioxidative and Antiaging Properties

by Morgan Dos Santos, Julie Rorteau, Kilian Laho, Hanan Osman-Ponchet, Manon Barthe, Benjamin Quelard, Antoine Carlino, Adeline Saha and Sandrine Troussieux

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 200; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060200 - 21 Nov 2024

Viewed by 473

Abstract

Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight [...] Read more.

Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight the signs of aging, a comprehensive program was implemented in this study to evaluate the efficacy of an innovative ingredient, Willaertia lysate, through a multi-scale approach encompassing cellular and advanced 3D skin models. The results show that Willaertia lysate, initially sourced from French Alps thermal spring waters, is able to (i) promote cell migration; (ii) improve the quality and abundance of the extracellular matrix in aged skins and in young skins exposed to UV radiation to a similar level to that in unexposed young skins; (iii) decrease tyrosinase activity and melanin content; and (iv) reduce oxidative stress after UV exposure by decreasing exposome markers such as protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation expression. This complete set of coherent results demonstrates the global protective efficacy of Willaertia lysate against the effects of photoaging. This study is the first to report the use of a protozoan lysate as a natural and biosourced postbiotic active ingredient in the fields of cosmetics and dermocosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

17 pages, 5873 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development of Transethosomes Loaded with Fruit Extract from Carissa carandas L. as a Brightening and Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Ingredient

by Sitthiphong Soradech, Worawan Tiatragoon, Phongsapak Phanphothong, Kanyarat Ouamkan, Pattarawadee Kengkwasingh, Supatjaree Ruengsomwong, Somkamol Intawong and Thanchanok Muangman

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 199; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060199 - 21 Nov 2024

Viewed by 360

Abstract

The ethanolic extract of Carissa carandas L. (ECE) inhibited the enzyme tyrosinase, enhanced the proliferation of normal human dermal fibroblast cells, and increased the formation of collagen type I, indicating possible anti-aging and whitening effects. However, the stratum corneum acts as a rate-limiting [...] Read more.

The ethanolic extract of Carissa carandas L. (ECE) inhibited the enzyme tyrosinase, enhanced the proliferation of normal human dermal fibroblast cells, and increased the formation of collagen type I, indicating possible anti-aging and whitening effects. However, the stratum corneum acts as a rate-limiting stage in the absorption of herbal extracts through the skin, resulting in limited absorption of ECE via the skin, which affects the efficacy of ECE. The purpose of this study was to develop ECE encapsulated in transethosomes for improved skin penetration as a novel brightening and anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredient. Transethosomes were successfully developed using the sonication technique, with a suitable formulation including 1.00% (w/w) phosphatidylcholine, 0.10% (w/w) polysorbate 80 and 28.55% (v/v) ethanol. The physicochemical properties, encapsulation efficacy, in vitro skin permeation and toxicity of ECE-loaded transethosomes were also investigated. The result showed that the percentages of encapsulation of ECE loaded in transethosomes increased slightly with higher concentrations of the ECE. When compared to the liquid extract, the ECE loaded in transethosomes significantly increased (p < 0.05) skin penetration. Furthermore, ECE loaded with transethosomes showed low cytotoxicity in normal human dermal fibroblast cells and caused no skin irritation when evaluated on reconstructed human epidermal skin. Given these abilities, it is evident that transethosomes containing ECE are highly effective anti-aging and skin-whitening agents, making them a promising new cosmeceutical ingredient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Delivery Systems for Dermatologic and Dermocosmetics Products)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

19 pages, 3354 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Microencapsulation, Cream Development, and Controlled Clinical Study of an Upcycled Polyphenolic Extract Combined with sh-Oligopeptide-1

by Teo Mayayo, Gabriella Russo, Ana Leticia Jiménez-Escobar, Noelia Pérez-González, Beatriz Clares, Adolfina Ruiz, Lidia Tomás-Cobos, Ana Valera, Almudena Gómez-Farto, Salvador Arias-Santiago and Trinidad Montero-Vilchez

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 198; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060198 - 20 Nov 2024

Viewed by 377

Abstract

Olive mills produce pomace as a by-product of olive oil production process, which has a negative environmental impact. In this study, the dry extract of pomace (OG2), rich in polyphenols, was used for cosmetic purposes. The polyphenolic extract was encapsulated together with sh-oligopeptide-1 [...] Read more.

Olive mills produce pomace as a by-product of olive oil production process, which has a negative environmental impact. In this study, the dry extract of pomace (OG2), rich in polyphenols, was used for cosmetic purposes. The polyphenolic extract was encapsulated together with sh-oligopeptide-1 using cellulose fibres by spray-drying technology. Cytotoxicity and antistress cell studies were carried out using a modified cell line (THP1). Based on the results, a single, randomised, self-controlled study was conducted to evaluate the cream in thirty healthy volunteers. Statistical analysis was performed using a paired samples t-test. Skin moisture increased in the treated forearm (p-value < 0.000). There was an increase in elasticity in the treated forearm (p-value 0.042). TEWL decreased after one week of cream application (p-value 0.099). The results of this clinical study showed that the cream improved barrier function after one week of application on healthy skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

16 pages, 1337 KiB

Open AccessReview

The Potential Applications of Natural Colostrum in Skin Health

by Ecem Bolat, Zeynep Karagöz, José Luiz de Brito Alves, José Patrocínio Ribeiro Cruz Neto, Anna Maria Witkowska, Hesham El-Seedi, Mauro Lombardo and Sercan Karav

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 197; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060197 - 20 Nov 2024

Viewed by 622

Abstract

Skin is a crucial organ for preserving the body’s equilibrium. Like other parts of the body, skin also ages due to extrinsic and intrinsic factors, leading to several signs such as wrinkles, spots, and a decline in elasticity, causing a range of issues [...] Read more.

Skin is a crucial organ for preserving the body’s equilibrium. Like other parts of the body, skin also ages due to extrinsic and intrinsic factors, leading to several signs such as wrinkles, spots, and a decline in elasticity, causing a range of issues similar to those seen elsewhere in the body. Some of these factors include ultraviolet (UV) radiation, hormonal disorders, genetic factors, loss of moisture, metabolic disorders, exposure to chemicals, and smoking. Colostrum, which is the initial foremilk, has shown positive effects on the consequences of these factors. Its content is richer than mature milk and contains several beneficial components. For instance, it includes hyaluronic acid, a molecule that binds water and keeps the skin hydrated; lactoferrin, with high antimicrobial properties; immunoglobulins, which are responsible for immunity; growth factors, which increase the amount of collagen, the main protein type of the skin; and, finally, the telomerase enzyme, which maintains the telomere’s length and, thus, decelerates the aging process. It has recently become apparent that using skin products with natural ingredients is essential. Considering its nature, contents, and effects, colostrum stands out as an excellent material for the cosmetic industry, especially for the aging sector. Therefore, the aim of this review article is to demonstrate the potential application of natural colostrum in skin health and its usage in natural cosmetic products in the cosmetic sector. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds - 2nd Edition)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

15 pages, 2558 KiB

Open AccessReview

An Insight into the Cosmetic and Dermatologic Applications of the Molecules of Palmyra Palm

by Sunehra Sayanhika and Paulraj Mosae Selvakumar

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060196 - 20 Nov 2024

Viewed by 652

Abstract

Palmyra palm is a resourceful plant species that can be put to use in superabundance. Its extensive range of use stretches in all directions—making it useful for consumption in countless forms, and the cosmetic industry is not a deviation from this. In accordance [...] Read more.

Palmyra palm is a resourceful plant species that can be put to use in superabundance. Its extensive range of use stretches in all directions—making it useful for consumption in countless forms, and the cosmetic industry is not a deviation from this. In accordance with the beneficial molecules generated in it, such as polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids and others, the addition of Palmyra raises incentives like reduction and microbe prevention when developed into therapeutic products. Therefore, the virtues of Palmyra fruit, sap, leaves, pulp, bark, haustoria and other parts are being diversely exploited in the beauty and health industry at present. To summarise the compass of Palmyra palm and its products in cosmetology and dermatology, an overview is drafted exploring the extant literature on the topic. Following the description of the available molecules, their adoption into skincare products and in vivo effects was analysed in this study. Aiming to highlight the prospects of Palmyra in skin and personal care formulations, this article discusses the span of its potential in light of its physicochemical attributes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

33 pages, 1973 KiB

Open AccessReview

A Journey Along the Boulevard of Bioactive Compounds from Natural Sources, with Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Potential: Bee Venom, Cobra Venom, Ficus carica

by Monica Dinu, Carmen Galea, Ana Maria Chirilov, Alin Laurențiu Tatu, Lawrence Chukwudi Nwabudike, Olimpia Dumitriu Buzia and Claudia Simona Stefan

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 195; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060195 - 18 Nov 2024

Viewed by 1068

Abstract

Animal venom and plant extracts have been used since ancient times in traditional medicine worldwide. Natural components, valued for their safety and effectiveness, have been consistently used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. We propose a journey along the boulevard of active compounds from [...] Read more.

Animal venom and plant extracts have been used since ancient times in traditional medicine worldwide. Natural components, valued for their safety and effectiveness, have been consistently used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. We propose a journey along the boulevard of active compounds from natural sources, where bee venom (BV), cobra venom (CV), and Ficus carica reveal their individual therapeutic and cosmetic properties. The originality of this review lies in exploring the synergy of these bioactive sources, an approach that has not been presented in the literature. Although BV, CV, and Ficus carica have different origins and compositions, they have multiple common pharmacological and cosmetic actions, which make them ideal for inclusion in various products that can be used for skin care and health in general. Their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, immunomodulatory, antimicrobial, neuroprotective, and regenerative properties give them an essential role in the creation of potential innovative and effective products in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry. Although many plant extracts have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, Ficus carica was chosen due to its complex biochemical composition, which provides valuable benefits in skin regeneration and protection against oxidative stress. According to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), Ficus carica is used in the form of an extract of fruits, leaves, juice, bark or stem, each having specific applicability in topical formulations; due to the diversity of bioactive compounds, it can amplify the effectiveness of BV and CV, helping to enhance their beneficial effects and reducing the risk of adverse effects, due to its well-tolerated nature. Thus, this combination of natural ingredients opens up new perspectives in the development of innovative products, optimizing efficiency and maintaining a favorable safety profile. In this context, due to the reported experimental results, the three natural sources caught our attention, and we conceived the present work, which is a review made following the analysis of the current progress in the study of the bioactive compounds present in BV, CV, and Ficus carica. We focused on the novelties regarding pharmacological and cosmetic actions presented in the literature, and we highlighted the safety profile, as well as the modern approaches regarding the delivery and transport systems of the active substances from the three natural sources, and we evaluated their prospects in therapeutic and cosmetic use. This paper not only expands our knowledge of bioactive compounds, but it can also generate new ideas and motivations for the research and development of innovative treatments and skincare methods. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

8 pages, 1929 KiB

Open AccessProtocol

Long Term Follow-Up in Gluteal Augmentation Using Cross-Linked Hyaluronic Acid: Up to 20 Months Ultrasound Follow-Up

by Renato Pazzini, Renata Viana and Giseli Petrone

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 194; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060194 - 15 Nov 2024

Viewed by 520

Abstract

This article describes a technique for gluteal augmentation using cross-linked hyaluronic acid (HA) filler, with a focus on long-term patient follow-up. The rising demand for buttock enhancement driven by esthetic preferences has led to the exploration of minimally invasive alternatives to traditional surgical [...] Read more.

This article describes a technique for gluteal augmentation using cross-linked hyaluronic acid (HA) filler, with a focus on long-term patient follow-up. The rising demand for buttock enhancement driven by esthetic preferences has led to the exploration of minimally invasive alternatives to traditional surgical methods. Ultrasound imaging was utilised to evaluate the presence and distribution of HA filler over time. The patients reported satisfactory aesthetic improvements, with mild transient side effects. The findings highlight the technique’s effectiveness in achieving enhanced gluteal contour with a minimal volume of filler, demonstrating both safety and durability in the long term. This innovative approach may serve as a valuable option in aesthetic practises focused on body contouring. Full article

► Show Figures

Figure 1

15 pages, 275 KiB

Open AccessReview

Current Understanding of Microneedling Procedures for Acne Skin: A Narrative Review

by Șoimița Emiliana Măgerușan, Gabriel Hancu and Aura Rusu

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 193; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060193 - 14 Nov 2024

Viewed by 1018

Abstract

Acne vulgaris, the most prevalent skin disorder among teenagers and young adults, is often perceived as a moderate skin condition; however, it imposes a substantial economic and psychological burden on individuals and society. Microneedling emerges as a valuable therapeutic option for acne vulgaris. [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris, the most prevalent skin disorder among teenagers and young adults, is often perceived as a moderate skin condition; however, it imposes a substantial economic and psychological burden on individuals and society. Microneedling emerges as a valuable therapeutic option for acne vulgaris. The procedure involves using fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, stimulating collagen production and enhancing the skin’s natural healing processes. This minimally invasive technique effectively reduces acne lesions, improves skin texture, and increases collagen production with minimal adverse effects and downtime. This narrative review evaluates the efficacy and safety of microneedling procedures in treating acne vulgaris. A comprehensive research strategy was employed across various databases (PubMed, Google Scholar, Cochrane Library) to identify relevant studies. Inclusion criteria encompassed studies investigating microneedling procedures for acne, including controlled trials and case studies. Outcomes such as reduced acne lesions, improved skin texture, adverse effects, and patient satisfaction were analyzed. While further well-designed studies are warranted to elucidate optimal treatment protocols and long-term outcomes, current evidence supports the integration of microneedling into managing acne-prone skin. Moreover, the long-term consequences of microneedling in acne management remain an area for future research. Full article

11 pages, 4853 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Facial Gold Reinforcement: 28 Years of Experience in the Use of Gold Threads

by Alexey E. Avdeev, Valentin I. Sharobaro, Arslan A. Penaev, Anastasia S. Borisenko, Elena V. Mitish and Anna S. Bairamova

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 192; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060192 - 12 Nov 2024

Viewed by 545

Abstract

Introduction: Gold threads became widely used in esthetic surgery in the early 1990s. Produced in Spain, these threads consisted of a gold thread (5/0) with a diameter of 0.1 mm, composed of 99.99% pure gold, which was combined with a polyglycolic thread. Since [...] Read more.

Introduction: Gold threads became widely used in esthetic surgery in the early 1990s. Produced in Spain, these threads consisted of a gold thread (5/0) with a diameter of 0.1 mm, composed of 99.99% pure gold, which was combined with a polyglycolic thread. Since then, discussions about their effectiveness have continued, which is the focus of our study. Patients and Methods: Gold thread implantation was performed on 11,062 patients in four clinics in Moscow over the course of 28 years. This study used a comparative analysis of photo collages created for the visual representation of data and changes before and after the procedure, as well as patient satisfaction assessments using the Patient Satisfaction Scale (PSS). We examined the results of 492 patients who underwent gold thread implantation in the face between 1996 and 2024. Of these patients, 86% were women aged 30 to 60 years, 11% were women aged 20 to 30 years, and 3% were men aged 25 to 60 years. Results: One year after thread implantation, the PSS assessment showed a 91% success rate with minimal complications. Patient satisfaction was high, with an average score of 4.8 out of 5 after one month, 4.7 after six months, and 4.6 after one-year post-procedure. Discussion: Gold thread implantation is a minimally invasive procedure that has demonstrated a high level of safety, making it an effective option for facial rejuvenation. Histological studies have shown that gold threads stimulate the production of collagen and elastin and activate angiogenesis, thereby improving skin nourishment and hydration, as well as enhancing the skin tone, elasticity, and turgor. To improve the qualitative characteristics of the skin, it is necessary to work in the subcutaneous layer. Conclusions: Gold thread implantation strengthens the connective tissue framework at the implantation site, thus improving skin nourishment and hydration. Gold threads provide a long-term rejuvenating effect, slowing the ptosis of the soft tissue of the face and neck. Gold thread implantation does not interfere with tissue dissection during surgical interventions or the performance of any cosmetic procedures, including hardware-based treatments. Full article

► Show Figures

Figure 1

18 pages, 1098 KiB

Open AccessReview

Liposomes and Ethosomes: Comparative Potential in Enhancing Skin Permeability for Therapeutic and Cosmetic Applications

by Ewelina Musielak and Violetta Krajka-Kuźniak

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 191; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060191 - 5 Nov 2024

Viewed by 1119

Abstract

Skin diseases are a common health problem affecting millions of people worldwide. Effective treatment often depends on the precise delivery of drugs to the affected areas. One promising approach is currently the transdermal drug delivery system (TDDS), whose significant challenge is the poor [...] Read more.

Skin diseases are a common health problem affecting millions of people worldwide. Effective treatment often depends on the precise delivery of drugs to the affected areas. One promising approach is currently the transdermal drug delivery system (TDDS), whose significant challenge is the poor penetration of many compounds into the skin due to the stratum corneum (SC), which acts as a formidable barrier. To overcome this limitation, nanocarriers have emerged as a highly effective alternative. This review discusses the use of liposomes and ethosomes for transdermal drug delivery. Liposomes are micro- or nanostructures consisting of a lipid bilayer surrounding an aqueous core. They facilitate transdermal drug penetration and may be advantageous for site-specific targeting. Some methods of treating skin diseases involve incorporating drugs such as acyclovir, dithranol, and tretinoin or bioactive compounds such as fluconazole, melanin, glycolic acid, kojic acid, and CoQ10 into nanocarriers. The inability of liposomes to pass through the narrowed intercellular channels of the stratum corneum led to the invention of lipid-based vesicular systems such as ethosomes. They are structurally similar to conventional liposomes, as they are prepared from phospholipids, but they contain a high ethanol concentration. Ethosomes are noninvasive carriers that allow drugs to reach the deep layers of the skin. Examples of commonly used substances and drugs combined with ethosomes in cosmetics include methotrexate, ascorbic acid, vitamin A and E, and colchicine. A significant development in this area is the use of rutin-loaded ethosomes. Encapsulating rutin in ethosomes significantly improves its stability and enhances skin penetration, allowing more efficient delivery to deeper skin layers. In cosmetics, rutin–ethosome formulations are used to protect the skin from oxidative stress, reduce redness, and improve capillary strength, making it a valuable formulation in anti-aging and anti-inflammatory products. The results of the first clinical trial of the acyclovir–ethosome formulation confirm that ethosomes require further investigation. The work provides an update on recent advances in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications, mentioning the essential points of commercially available formulations, clinical trials, and patents in the recent past. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

15 pages, 2601 KiB

Open AccessReview

Mechanisms of Sensitive Skin and the Soothing Effects of Active Compounds: A Review

by Bei Chen, Haiyan Tang, Zhihui Liu, Kun Qiao, Xiaoting Chen, Shuji Liu, Nan Pan, Tingru Chen and Zhiyu Liu

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 190; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060190 - 1 Nov 2024

Viewed by 1197

Abstract

The incidence of skin sensitivity issues in human populations has increased steadily because of external factors, such as environmental changes and emotional stress. Skin sensitivity refers to a state of skin hyperreactivity that occurs under certain physiological or pathological conditions. Sensitive skin may [...] Read more.

The incidence of skin sensitivity issues in human populations has increased steadily because of external factors, such as environmental changes and emotional stress. Skin sensitivity refers to a state of skin hyperreactivity that occurs under certain physiological or pathological conditions. Sensitive skin may manifest as redness, itching, and pain and even trigger skin diseases, such as eczema or dermatitis, in severe cases. This review discusses the sensitization mechanisms and characteristics of sensitive skin, with a focus on symptom alleviation through three key strategies: skin-barrier repair, reduction in TRPV1 receptor activity, and anti-inflammatory interventions utilizing active substances. The findings will enhance public knowledge regarding sensitive skin, promote further research and practical prevention and treatment methods, and provide theoretical support for developing soothing cosmetic products for sensitive skin. Full article

► Show Figures

Figure 1

14 pages, 1915 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Anti-Flyaway/Frizz Effect by Inducing the α-Helical Structure Transition of Hair

by Sang-Hun Song, Byung Tack Lim and Seong Kil Son

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 189; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060189 - 30 Oct 2024

Viewed by 755

Abstract

In order to reduce chronic hair flyaways/frizz, both reducing and oxidizing agents have to be used, leaving aside the hair damage issues. This study presents changes in hair morphology caused by treatment with a shampoo containing only reducing agents, excluding oxidizing agents that [...] Read more.

In order to reduce chronic hair flyaways/frizz, both reducing and oxidizing agents have to be used, leaving aside the hair damage issues. This study presents changes in hair morphology caused by treatment with a shampoo containing only reducing agents, excluding oxidizing agents that affect critical hair damages. As a result of flyaway/frizz improvement rates calculated through monitoring of the area of light transmittance in the hair tresses, reducing agents, such as ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), L-cysteine, and sodium sulfite were found to be effective in decreasing hair flyaway/frizz. Additionally, the methods to maintain homeostasis and control damage caused by oxidation during washing were also used to see flyaway/frizz improvement rates. Measurements using electrostatic force microscopy (EFM) showed that the surface charge of hair tresses treated with shampoo containing reducing agents was lowered. Using Raman spectroscopic analysis, it has been suggested that these treatments with reducing agents induced a 3D structural transition of the hair from an α-helix to a random coil. In addition, this structural release was confirmed, identifying the reduction in the enthalpy of the α-helix using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Furthermore, we verified that this change causes no hair damage through a tensile strength test. Therefore, the formulation of shampoo with reducing agents can be used as an effective strategy to care for hair flyaway/frizz without hair damage issues. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

5 pages, 184 KiB

Open AccessCommentary

Perspectives of Regenerative Medicine in Dermatology and Cosmetology

by Enzo Berardesca and Norma Cameli

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 188; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060188 - 30 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1277

Abstract

Regenerative medicine has revolutionized the field of biological sciences, pharmacology and healthcare, bringing a new approach to treatments of various health conditions. Dermatology and aesthetic medicine are interested in these new scientific approaches as well. From this point of view, many areas of [...] Read more.

Regenerative medicine has revolutionized the field of biological sciences, pharmacology and healthcare, bringing a new approach to treatments of various health conditions. Dermatology and aesthetic medicine are interested in these new scientific approaches as well. From this point of view, many areas of skin health and cosmetology may be involved, but several questions should be answered before these procedures become routine in offices and hospitals. Indeed scientific, ethical, and financial issues still have to be addressed in detail. Nevertheless, ongoing research and technological advancements are expected to further improve therapies. The integration of artificial intelligence and machine learning could enhance the precision of regenerative treatments, making them more effective and accessible in forthcoming years. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

20 pages, 7685 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Electric Stimulation at 448 kHz Modulates Proliferation and Differentiation of Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells

by María Antonia Martínez-Pascual, Silvia Sacristán, Elena Toledano-Macías and María Luisa Hernández-Bule

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 187; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060187 - 30 Oct 2024

Viewed by 579

Abstract

Dermal papilla cells (DPCs) regulate the hair cycle and play important roles in hair growth and regeneration. Alopecia is a pathology caused by a deregulation in the hair cycle phases. Currently, the use of physical therapies such as radiofrequency (RF) as an alternative [...] Read more.

Dermal papilla cells (DPCs) regulate the hair cycle and play important roles in hair growth and regeneration. Alopecia is a pathology caused by a deregulation in the hair cycle phases. Currently, the use of physical therapies such as radiofrequency (RF) as an alternative to pharmacological treatment is increasing. Electrical stimulation by capacitive resistive electrical transfer (CRET) is one of these therapies. The objective of the present study was to analyze the effect of RF-CRET currents on DPCs. Cells were treated with subthermal 448 kHz CRET currents with two different types of signals: standard (CRET-STD) or modulated (CRET-MOD). Viability (XTT Assay), proliferation (Ki67 and ERK1/2), apoptosis (p53 and caspase 3), differentiation (β-catenin and α-SMA), and anagen markers (versican and PPARγ) were analyzed by immunofluorescence and immunoblot. CRET caused effects on the proliferation and survival of DPCs associated with increases in the expression of p-MAPK-ERK1/2, cyclin D1, and decreases in the expression of p53 and caspase 3. Also, CRET caused significant transient increases in the expression of β-catenin, involved in hair growth, and in the expression of anagen phase markers such as versican and PPARγ related to hair follicle maintenance. The present study highlights the ability of treatment with CRET therapy to cause molecular alterations in DPC involved in hair regeneration. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advance in Hair Science and Hair Care Technologies: 2nd Edition)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

19 pages, 2350 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Enhancing Antioxidant Activity from Aquatic Plant Cymodocea nodosa for Cosmetic Formulation Through Optimized Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction Using Response Surface Methodology

by Emna Chaabani, Sarra Mgaidi, Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Sarra Dakhlaoui, Majdi Hammami, Sawssen Selmi, Mohamed Zariat, Abdessalem Shili, Othmane Merah and Iness Bettaieb Rebey

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 186; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060186 - 26 Oct 2024

Viewed by 941

Abstract

This study aimed to enhance antioxidant extraction from the aquatic plant Cymodocea nodosa for cosmetic formulation through optimized ultrasound-assisted extraction using response surface methodology. The optimized conditions—30 min of extraction time, 30% ultrasonic power, and 25% hydro-ethanolic solvent—resulted in a high total phenolic [...] Read more.

This study aimed to enhance antioxidant extraction from the aquatic plant Cymodocea nodosa for cosmetic formulation through optimized ultrasound-assisted extraction using response surface methodology. The optimized conditions—30 min of extraction time, 30% ultrasonic power, and 25% hydro-ethanolic solvent—resulted in a high total phenolic content of 113.07 mg EAG/g DM and antioxidant activity of 67.02%. Chromatographic analysis revealed a rich profile of phenolic compounds, including sinapic acid (0.741 mg/g), myricetin (0.62 mg/g), and quercetin-3-O-rutinoside (0.3 mg/g), demonstrating the extract’s potent therapeutic properties. While the extract exhibited limited anti-inflammatory activity, it showed no cytotoxic effects on RAW 267.4 cells, ensuring its safety for cosmetic applications. The formulated cream maintained stable pH (6.58 to 6.6), consistent viscosity (5966.38 to 5980.6 cp), and minimal color changes over a 30-day period, indicating robust stability across various temperatures (4 °C, 25 °C, and 40 °C). These results confirm the potential of C. nodosa extracts to develop effective, stable, and eco-friendly cosmetic products, offering substantial benefits for skin health and emphasizing the importance of sustainable extraction processes in the cosmetics industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

18 pages, 4209 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Safety and Efficacy of Chemical Peels With and Without Sonophoresis on Selected Skin Parameters—A Prospective Comparative Study

by Dorota Sołdacka and Wioletta Barańska-Rybak

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 185; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060185 - 25 Oct 2024

Viewed by 744

Abstract

Background: Skin is the largest organ in the human body. Some skin parameters like moisturization and sebum secretion play a vital role in the skin’s functioning. This study aims to assess the effects of topical chemical peels of different concentrations and pH, applied [...] Read more.

Background: Skin is the largest organ in the human body. Some skin parameters like moisturization and sebum secretion play a vital role in the skin’s functioning. This study aims to assess the effects of topical chemical peels of different concentrations and pH, applied manually and with ultrasounds, on the level of hydration, erythema, pigmentation, and sebum secretion of the skin. Methods: The study involved 90 Caucasian females, aged 25 to 59, with dry, dehydrated skin, skin with erythema or pigmentation disorders. The patients were randomly divided into three equal groups. The subjects from Group A were applied 10% mandelic acid with 25% gluconolactone of pH 4.0 manually. In Group B, 40% mandelic acid of pH 1.5 was used. The subjects from Group C were applied 10% mandelic acid with 25% gluconolactone of pH 4.0 via sonophoresis. A series of six procedures in weekly intervals was performed. Skin functional parameters (skin hydration, erythema, and melanin indicators) were taken before the first procedure, after 14 days, 28 days, and 42 days. Results: In Group A, the level of moisturization of the skin increased statistically significantly (p = 0.0100) however, the sebum secretion and erythema did not change. In Group B, the level of moisturization improved statistically significantly, as well as erythema (p = 0.0001). Sebum secretion in the final measurement increased. The moisturization and erythema in Group C did not differ statistically significantly. On the other hand, the sebum secretion increased significantly. Conclusions: Very superficial chemical peels significantly alter selected skin parameters. AHAs and PHAs applied using the ultrasound method do not affect the level of hydration, erythema, or pigmentation of the skin. Full article

► Show Figures

Figure 1

28 pages, 2992 KiB

Open AccessReview

Regulation and Safety of Cosmetics: Pre- and Post-Market Considerations for Adverse Events and Environmental Impacts

by Daniela Vieira, Joana Duarte, Pedro Vieira, Maria Beatriz S. Gonçalves, Ana Figueiras, Alka Lohani, Francisco Veiga and Filipa Mascarenhas-Melo

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 184; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060184 - 24 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1974

Abstract

Cosmetic products have been increasingly regulated, particularly in Europe. With the introduction of the cosmetic regulation in 2013, stricter quality standards were implemented, surpassing those set by the 1976 legislation. The primary objective of these regulations is to safeguard consumer safety during the [...] Read more.

Cosmetic products have been increasingly regulated, particularly in Europe. With the introduction of the cosmetic regulation in 2013, stricter quality standards were implemented, surpassing those set by the 1976 legislation. The primary objective of these regulations is to safeguard consumer safety during the use of cosmetic products. Despite these advancements, certain regulatory gaps remain, indicating the need for more effective measures to enhance human and environmental health protection. Considering the aforementioned, this work aims to provide an overview of the current Cosmetics Regulation, highlighting the weakest cornerstones that represent the missing link keeping the core objective from being achieved. While there is ongoing reliance on historical data from animal studies, efforts are actively underway to replace these methods with new new approach methodologies for risk assessment. Additionally, regulatory authorities continue to improve environmental considerations in the assessment process. These measures, along with enhanced surveillance systems, are gradually addressing existing gaps and contributing to a more robust regulatory framework that balances market access with consumer safety. Legally non-compliant—or perhaps compliant but unknowingly dangerous—products may be used by people who relativize them as inherently safe, leading to adverse events. Whether caused by an underlying disease or purely by the chemical’s toxicity, these may never come to the attention of the authorities as they are generally under-reported, making it unfeasible to implement corrective or preventive measures to address their root cause. To illustrate, non-compliant products that have been detected by the Portuguese authority, INFARMED, I. P., from January 2018 to September 2023 are discussed, which were found to be potentially dangerous to human health and, therefore, withdrawn from the market. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

20 pages, 1202 KiB

Open AccessReview

The Genomic Variation in Textured Hair: Implications in Developing a Holistic Hair Care Routine

by Deborah B. Oladele, Ewa Markiewicz and Olusola C. Idowu

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 183; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060183 - 24 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1355

Abstract

Human hair is characterised by variability, determined by genetic and macromolecular factors. Whilst the European hair type has been a focus of extensive research, Afro-textured hair care faces challenges created by insufficient knowledge of its properties. Applications of hair care products that are [...] Read more.

Human hair is characterised by variability, determined by genetic and macromolecular factors. Whilst the European hair type has been a focus of extensive research, Afro-textured hair care faces challenges created by insufficient knowledge of its properties. Applications of hair care products that are incompatible with Afro-textured hair frequently have detrimental effects on the scalp. This highlights the need for partnerships to bridge the gap between research and hair care practices and address challenges related to Afro-textured hair. In this review, we performed data mining of the existing literature and in silico network analysis of the biomarkers relevant to Afro-textured hair. The approaches to hair maintenance are highlighted in the context of hair anatomy and growth cycles, organisation of keratins, surface lipids, and chemical bonds. We discuss a range of biomarkers affecting hair fibre’s shape and mechanical strength, with the gene interactive network pointing to the hierarchical organisation of important traits, notably hair shaft diameter, keratinization, and hair follicle patterning, which likely contribute to the increased sensitivity of hair to extrinsic factors. We propose that a better understanding of the genetic traits, molecular structure, and biomechanics of Afro-textured hair is required to initiate more effective hair care solutions that would benefit the wider population. Full article

► Show Figures

Figure 1

Journal Menu

Journal Browser

Cosmetics, Volume 11, Issue 6 (December 2024) – 24 articles

Further Information

Guidelines

MDPI Initiatives

Follow MDPI