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14 pages, 5483 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Potential of Deer Placenta Extract in Hair Cell Regeneration and Its Nanoniosome-Microspicule Gel as a Transfollicular Delivery System

by Worranan Rangsimawong, Sureewan Duangjit, Phaijit Sritananuwat, Tanasait Ngawhirunpat and Praneet Opanasopit

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 204; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060204 - 26 Nov 2024

Viewed by 393

Abstract

Background: Deer placenta extract (DPE), rich in bioactive macromolecules, promotes regenerative effects in both normal and damaged cells. However, effective delivery of these macromolecules through the skin remains a challenge. Objectives: To investigate the potential of DPE in regenerating hair cells and to [...] Read more.

Background: Deer placenta extract (DPE), rich in bioactive macromolecules, promotes regenerative effects in both normal and damaged cells. However, effective delivery of these macromolecules through the skin remains a challenge. Objectives: To investigate the potential of DPE in regenerating hair cells and to develop a nanoniosome (NS) and microspicule (MS) formulation as a promising transfollicular delivery system. Methods: The bioactivity of DPE was assessed in human follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells, including cells damaged by chemotherapy. The NS-MS formulation was designed to deliver biomacromolecules from DPE into skin and hair follicles. Results: DPE at 2000 µg/mL exhibited no cytotoxicity and significantly enhanced proliferation in both normal and cisplatin-treated HFDP cells. The DPE-loaded NSs displayed nanovesicles with a uniform size distribution and a negative surface charge. When incorporated into the MS gel, NS-MS demonstrated a synergistic effect, significantly enhancing the transdermal and transfollicular delivery of macromolecular protein into the skin layers and hair follicles. Conclusions: DPE promoted hair cell proliferation and facilitated the recovery of hair cells damaged by chemotherapy, especially when formulated into the NS-MS system, which effectively delivered bioactive macromolecules to the target site. This suggests its potential role in promoting hair regrowth. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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19 pages, 3354 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Microencapsulation, Cream Development, and Controlled Clinical Study of an Upcycled Polyphenolic Extract Combined with sh-Oligopeptide-1

by Teo Mayayo, Gabriella Russo, Ana Leticia Jiménez-Escobar, Noelia Pérez-González, Beatriz Clares, Adolfina Ruiz, Lidia Tomás-Cobos, Ana Valera, Almudena Gómez-Farto, Salvador Arias-Santiago and Trinidad Montero-Vilchez

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 198; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060198 - 20 Nov 2024

Viewed by 400

Abstract

Olive mills produce pomace as a by-product of olive oil production process, which has a negative environmental impact. In this study, the dry extract of pomace (OG2), rich in polyphenols, was used for cosmetic purposes. The polyphenolic extract was encapsulated together with sh-oligopeptide-1 [...] Read more.

Olive mills produce pomace as a by-product of olive oil production process, which has a negative environmental impact. In this study, the dry extract of pomace (OG2), rich in polyphenols, was used for cosmetic purposes. The polyphenolic extract was encapsulated together with sh-oligopeptide-1 using cellulose fibres by spray-drying technology. Cytotoxicity and antistress cell studies were carried out using a modified cell line (THP1). Based on the results, a single, randomised, self-controlled study was conducted to evaluate the cream in thirty healthy volunteers. Statistical analysis was performed using a paired samples t-test. Skin moisture increased in the treated forearm (p-value < 0.000). There was an increase in elasticity in the treated forearm (p-value 0.042). TEWL decreased after one week of cream application (p-value 0.099). The results of this clinical study showed that the cream improved barrier function after one week of application on healthy skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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14 pages, 1915 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Anti-Flyaway/Frizz Effect by Inducing the α-Helical Structure Transition of Hair

by Sang-Hun Song, Byung Tack Lim and Seong Kil Son

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 189; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060189 - 30 Oct 2024

Viewed by 766

Abstract

In order to reduce chronic hair flyaways/frizz, both reducing and oxidizing agents have to be used, leaving aside the hair damage issues. This study presents changes in hair morphology caused by treatment with a shampoo containing only reducing agents, excluding oxidizing agents that [...] Read more.

In order to reduce chronic hair flyaways/frizz, both reducing and oxidizing agents have to be used, leaving aside the hair damage issues. This study presents changes in hair morphology caused by treatment with a shampoo containing only reducing agents, excluding oxidizing agents that affect critical hair damages. As a result of flyaway/frizz improvement rates calculated through monitoring of the area of light transmittance in the hair tresses, reducing agents, such as ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), L-cysteine, and sodium sulfite were found to be effective in decreasing hair flyaway/frizz. Additionally, the methods to maintain homeostasis and control damage caused by oxidation during washing were also used to see flyaway/frizz improvement rates. Measurements using electrostatic force microscopy (EFM) showed that the surface charge of hair tresses treated with shampoo containing reducing agents was lowered. Using Raman spectroscopic analysis, it has been suggested that these treatments with reducing agents induced a 3D structural transition of the hair from an α-helix to a random coil. In addition, this structural release was confirmed, identifying the reduction in the enthalpy of the α-helix using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Furthermore, we verified that this change causes no hair damage through a tensile strength test. Therefore, the formulation of shampoo with reducing agents can be used as an effective strategy to care for hair flyaway/frizz without hair damage issues. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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13 pages, 9361 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Hair Loss Effects of the DP₂ Antagonist in Human Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells

by Hye Won Lim, Hyunwoo Joo, Chae Young Jeon, Yurim Lee, Mujun Kim, Jung Un Shin, Jinsick Kim, SoonRe Kim, Sanghwa Lee, Dong Chul Lim, Hee Dong Park, Byung Cheol Park and Dong Wook Shin

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 177; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050177 - 8 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1486

Abstract

Prostaglandin D₂ (PGD₂) levels are high in the balding areas of human scalps, and PGD₂ has been found to inhibit hair growth. It is known that the inhibition of the PGD₂ receptor can promote hair growth by preventing [...] Read more.

Prostaglandin D₂ (PGD₂) levels are high in the balding areas of human scalps, and PGD₂ has been found to inhibit hair growth. It is known that the inhibition of the PGD₂ receptor can promote hair growth by preventing hair follicles from entering the catagen phase. Thus, we identified an antagonist of DP2, the receptor for PGD2, as a potential treatment for hair loss using an AI-based DeepZema^® drug development program. In this study, we identified that the DP₂ antagonist (DP2A) could ameliorate alopecia in human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) that were stimulated by dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a known molecule related to hair loss. We observed that the DP2A promoted wound healing efficiency and increased alkaline phosphatase levels in the HFDPCs that were damaged with DHT. In addition, we found that the DP2A diminished the reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels generated in the DHT-damaged HFDPCs. We confirmed that the DP2A effectively recovered the membrane potential of mitochondria in these cells. We also demonstrated that the DP2A enhanced the phosphorylation levels of both Akt and ERK in the HFDPCs that were damaged with DHT. Notably, we revealed that the DP2A slightly enlarged the three-dimensional spheroid size in these cells and confirmed that the DP2A improved hair growth in the organ culture of human hair follicles. Taken together, we suggest that DP2A has therapeutic effects on HFDPCs that are damaged by DHT and holds promise as a potential treatment for treating hair loss. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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17 pages, 2109 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Bee Cosmetic Surgery Scale—A Clinical Tool for Assessing the Psychopathological, Psychosocial, and Decision-Making Factors Involved in Accepting Cosmetic Procedures

by Georgiana Albina Căiță, Florica Voiță-Mekeres, Florian Bodog, Cosmin Mircea Vieriu, Daniela Margareta Varga, Mariana Racoviță, Gheorghe Szilagyi and Felicia Manole

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 176; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050176 - 4 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1014

Abstract

The Bee Cosmetic Surgery Scale (BCSS) is a novel clinical tool designed to assess the psychopathological, psychosocial, and decision-making factors involved in accepting cosmetic procedures. This prospective, multicenter study aimed to propose and validate the BCSS, which considers aesthetic aspects, personal pathological history, [...] Read more.

The Bee Cosmetic Surgery Scale (BCSS) is a novel clinical tool designed to assess the psychopathological, psychosocial, and decision-making factors involved in accepting cosmetic procedures. This prospective, multicenter study aimed to propose and validate the BCSS, which considers aesthetic aspects, personal pathological history, and psychopathological implications leading to the acceptance of invasive or non-invasive aesthetic interventions. The study included 281 participants aged 18–66 years, divided into three groups: non-invasive cosmetic surgery (NICS), invasive and non-invasive cosmetic surgery (INICS), and individuals who had not undergone cosmetic surgery (NCS). Participants were randomly selected from patients visiting plastic surgery services and various medical services in Oradea, Romania, between October 2022 and March 2024. The BCSS comprises 20 items with Likert-type responses, ranging from one to five. The Multidimensional Scale of Perceived Social Support (MSPSS) was used to measure perceived social support. The BCSS aims to elucidate the patient’s desire for aesthetic procedures, whether it stems from an impulsive act, warrants a longer decision-making period, or necessitates addressing psychological or psychiatric conditions before scheduling the procedure. The scale enables cosmetic surgeons to assess whether the patient has been adequately informed and understands the risks and complications associated with the cosmetic surgical procedure. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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12 pages, 551 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Bioactive Compounds, Antioxidant Properties, and Cosmetic Applications of Selected Cold-Pressed Plant Oils from Seeds

by Monika Michalak, Ewelina Błońska-Sikora, Natalia Dobros, Olga Spałek, Agnieszka Zielińska and Katarzyna Paradowska

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 153; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050153 - 6 Sep 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1574

Abstract

Plant oils are currently not only an essential element of the healthy eating pyramid, but also a valuable cosmetic material, which, in line with the eco-friendly trends of recent years, is effectively replacing petroleum-derived fatty ingredients. The fatty acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, and [...] Read more.

Plant oils are currently not only an essential element of the healthy eating pyramid, but also a valuable cosmetic material, which, in line with the eco-friendly trends of recent years, is effectively replacing petroleum-derived fatty ingredients. The fatty acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, and vitamins (e.g., A and E) present in plant oils contribute to their health-promoting properties, including antioxidant activity. This study assessed the contents of carotenoids and chlorophylls, as well as the antioxidant properties of 10 selected plant oils. Fenugreek seed oil was shown to have the highest total content of carotenoids, and the most β-carotene. Chokeberry and rosehip oils also contained large amounts of provitamin A, in comparison to the other oils tested. Lycopene was the dominant compound in black currant and rosehip seed oils. Among chlorophyll pigments, elderberry oil had the highest content of chlorophyll a, while black currant oil had large amounts of both chlorophyll a and chlorophyll b. The antioxidant properties of the cold pressed oils obtained from selected seeds and fruit stones, assessed by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy as the ability to interact with the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) free radical, can be ranked as follows: pomegranate > fenugreek > poppy > black currant > chokeberry > rosehip > perilla > elderberry > carrot > fig. The results of this study showed that these plant oils are valuable natural materials with antioxidant properties, which can be an important complement to synthetic antioxidants due to their additional skin care properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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26 pages, 4486 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Bleached Hair as Standard Template to Insight the Performance of Commercial Hair Repair Products

by Eva Martins, Pedro Castro, Alessandra B. Ribeiro, Carla F. Pereira, Francisca Casanova, Rui Vilarinho, Joaquim Moreira and Óscar L. Ramos

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 150; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050150 - 28 Aug 2024

Viewed by 3049

Abstract

The increasing demand for effective hair care products has highlighted the necessity for rigorous claims substantiation methods, particularly for products that target specific hair types. This is essential because the effectiveness of a product can vary significantly based on the hair’s condition and [...] Read more.

The increasing demand for effective hair care products has highlighted the necessity for rigorous claims substantiation methods, particularly for products that target specific hair types. This is essential because the effectiveness of a product can vary significantly based on the hair’s condition and characteristics. A well-defined bleaching protocol is crucial for creating a standardized method to assess product efficacy, especially for products designed to repair damaged hair. The objective of this study was to create a practical bleaching protocol that mimics real-world consumer experiences, ensuring that hair samples exhibit sufficient damage for testing. This approach allows for a reliable assessment of how well various products can repair hair. The protocol serves as a framework for evaluating hair properties and the specific effects of each product on hair structure. Color, brightness, lightness, morphology, and topography were primarily used to understand the big differences in the hair fiber when treated with two repair benchmark products, K18^® and Olaplex^®, in relation to the Bleached hair. The devised bleaching protocol proved to be a fitting framework for assessing the properties of hair and the unique characteristics of each tested product within the hair fiber. This protocol offers valuable insights and tools for substantiating consumer claims, with morphological and mechanical methods serving as indispensable tools for recognizing and validating claims related to hair. The addition of K18^® and Olaplex^® demonstrated an increase in hair brightness (Y) and lightness (L* and a*) in relation to the Bleached samples, which were considered relevant characteristics for consumers. Olaplex^®’s water-based nature creates a visible inner sheet, effectively filling empty spaces and improving the disulfide linkage network. This enhancement was corroborated by the increased number of disulfide bonds and evident changes in the FTIR profile. In contrast, K18^®, owing to the lipophilic nature of its constituents, resulted in the formation of an external layer above the fiber. The composition of each of the products had a discrete impact on the fiber distribution, which was an outcome relevant to the determination of spreadability by consumers. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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13 pages, 1916 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Holobiont Rebalancing by a Natural Gentian Extract on a Skin Dehydration Model

by Lauriane N. Roux, Assia Dreux-Zigha, Célia Rey, Carine Boutot, Yoan Laurent, Sercan Beytur, Isabelle Metton, Jean-Daniel Abraham and Jean-Yves Berthon

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 132; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040132 - 1 Aug 2024

Viewed by 1544

Abstract

Human skin homeostasis is partly maintained by a complex microscopic ecosystem known as the microbiota. Together, the skin host and microbiota form a synergistic evolutionary unit referred to as ‘skin holobiont’, which can be modulated by various stresses. By extracting organic wild yellow [...] Read more.

Human skin homeostasis is partly maintained by a complex microscopic ecosystem known as the microbiota. Together, the skin host and microbiota form a synergistic evolutionary unit referred to as ‘skin holobiont’, which can be modulated by various stresses. By extracting organic wild yellow gentian roots enhanced through fermentation of a rare and resistant bacterium, Sphingomonas faeni, a cosmetic active ingredient was developed to rebalance the holobiont functions as well as hydric and lipidic skin content. Indeed, gentian-fermented extract (GFE) boosts hyaluronic acid (HA) biosynthesis in vitro, stimulates the HA receptor, CD44, and allows water storage and retention through its signaling cascade by epidermal reinforcement. Importantly, GFE also increases lipid synthesis by +147% in vitro, which was confirmed clinically on volunteers with dehydrated and dry skin who presented an increase in hydration and skin surface lipids after 28 days of treatment. Furthermore, a metaproteomic study highlighted that there is a slow-down of skin barrier and antioxidant proteins from both human and microbial origins, with age and dehydration, that can be reversed by GFE after 56 days. In conclusion, acting on the HA metabolism and specific microbiota species, GFE rebalances the skin holobiont for a reinforced and rehydrated skin with optimal lipid content. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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22 pages, 4605 KiB

Open AccessArticle

In Vitro Toxicity Evaluation of Some Plant Extracts and Their Potential Application in Xerosis cutis

by Adelina Ghica, Mariana Luiza Tănase, Cristina Mariana Niculițe, Anca Tocilă, Liliana Popescu, Emanuela Alice Luță, Octavian Tudorel Olaru, Violeta Popovici, Teodora Dalila Balaci, Ligia Elena Duțu, Rica Boscencu and Cerasela Elena Gîrd

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 124; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040124 - 21 Jul 2024

Viewed by 1673

Abstract

Xerosis cutis represents one of the most common dermatological diagnoses, which, when untreated, can be the trigger for open wounds, infections, and other skin diseases. Plant extracts are a valuable option for long-term treatments for xerosis due to their phytocompounds, especially polyphenols, flavonoids, [...] Read more.

Xerosis cutis represents one of the most common dermatological diagnoses, which, when untreated, can be the trigger for open wounds, infections, and other skin diseases. Plant extracts are a valuable option for long-term treatments for xerosis due to their phytocompounds, especially polyphenols, flavonoids, triterpenes, and polysaccharides, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, moisturizing, and reparatory effects. Active substances have different mechanisms; therefore, evaluating the effects on the cells can be a key indicator, providing valuable information in terms of both cytotoxicity and efficacy. The in vitro and in vivo toxicity tests performed for Betulae extractum, Liquiritiae extractum, and Avenae extractum highlighted potential toxic effects at higher concentrations in a dose-dependent relationship, but at lower levels they can be considered safe (12.5 µg/mL for birch and licorice extracts, 50 µg/mL for oat extract). Concerning the re-epithelialization process, the results revealed that all three dry extracts effectively stimulate skin cell migration, highlighting a potential anti-inflammatory effect by increasing the cell migration rate in conditions of induced inflammation associated with oxidative stress. Among the tested concentrations with a potential contribution to wound healing, the following standout: are birch bark extract 3 μg/mL, licorice root extract 7.5 µg/mL, and oat herb (harvested before flowering) extract 7.5 µg/mL. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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12 pages, 3100 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Effect of an Oral Probiotic Mixture on Clinical Evolution and the Gut and Skin Microbiome in Patients with Alopecia Areata: A Randomized Clinical Trial

by María R. Navarro-Belmonte, Ángel Aguado-García, Pedro Sánchez-Pellicer, Eva Núñez-Delegido, Laura Navarro-Moratalla, María Martínez-Villaescusa, Alejandro García-Navarro and Vicente Navarro-López

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040119 - 13 Jul 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1616

Abstract

(1) Background: Given the autoimmune nature of Alopecia Areata (AA) and the immunomodulatory properties of probiotics, this trial was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of a probiotic mixture, consisting of Lactobacillus rhamnosus and Bifidobacterium longum strains, as an adjuvant treatment in a group [...] Read more.

(1) Background: Given the autoimmune nature of Alopecia Areata (AA) and the immunomodulatory properties of probiotics, this trial was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of a probiotic mixture, consisting of Lactobacillus rhamnosus and Bifidobacterium longum strains, as an adjuvant treatment in a group of AA patients. (2) Method: This study was a 24-week, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Twenty-six patients with AA were included in this study, and their clinical progression, along with changes in gut and skin microbiota, were analyzed. (3) Results: A higher proportion of AA patients treated with the probiotic formula showed improvement compared to the placebo group, based on both the reduction in the number of AA plaques (56% vs. 30%) and the affected scalp surface area (45% vs. 20%). For “activity”, “inactivity”, and “regrowth”, an improvement in 55%, 67%, and 55% of patients was, respectively, observed in the probiotic group, compared to 50%, 40%, and 30% in the placebo group. No changes were observed in the gut microbiota during the intervention period. Regarding skin microbiota, changes were detected in the probiotic group, with reductions in characteristic genera during the study. (4) Conclusions: To our knowledge, this is the first clinical trial assessing the efficacy of a probiotic product in patients with AA. This probiotic mixture in a routine clinical practice setting appears to improve the course of patients. In addition, the skin microbiota of scalp lesions was modified using the probiotic treatment. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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14 pages, 5588 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Comparative Efficacy and Safety of 250 μm versus 350 μm Long Microneedle Patch on Under-Eye Skin

by Apisama Arepagorn, Jitlada Meephansan, Punyaphat Sirithanabadeekul, Kittipong Tantisantisom, Sattra Thongma, Yossawat Rayanasukha, Thitikorn Boonkoom and Paisan Khanchaitit

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030092 - 5 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1658

Abstract

Background: Microneedle patch (MNP) technology is now applied for many purposes, including transdermal drug delivery and percutaneous collagen induction in the cosmetic and dermatology fields. Previous research showed that a MNP effectively improved skin appearance, while treatments using larger or deeper microneedles were [...] Read more.

Background: Microneedle patch (MNP) technology is now applied for many purposes, including transdermal drug delivery and percutaneous collagen induction in the cosmetic and dermatology fields. Previous research showed that a MNP effectively improved skin appearance, while treatments using larger or deeper microneedles were not easily tolerated by human subjects. Few studies have compared MNP designs in humans. Study Objective: To compare novel MNP designs with high length and low density versus low length and high density for rejuvenating skin wrinkles under the eyes. Methods: This non-randomized split-face clinical trial was conducted as a double-blind study with 36 Thai female participants. Each participant was treated with two different MNP designs, one on each side of the face. The microneedle lengths were 250 μm with a density of 945 needles/cm² on the left side of the face under the eye and 350 μm with a density of 482 needles/cm² on the right side of the face under the eye. The treatments were applied for 12 weeks, with the assessment outcomes evaluated at the baseline and 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 weeks. Results: The application of these two novel MNP designs successfully rejuvenated under-eye wrinkles with low pain level scores. Increasing the length of the needle or having a 350 μm long MN can better reduce under-eye wrinkles without statistical significance. During the study period, there was an improvement in skin surface roughness in both groups accompanied by a consistent reduction in under-eye skin wrinkles, without statistically significant differences observed between the groups when using the Antera 3D system. However, the 350 μm long MN also slightly increased the pain compared to the shorter needles (250 μm long MN) with a higher density of needles. There were no side effects associated with the two designs. Conclusions: The two novel MNPs gave favorable results as a safe non-invasive treatment for the rejuvenation of skin wrinkles under the eyes. Increasing the number of needles and increasing the length of the needles were both effective in safely reducing under-eye wrinkles without any adverse effects. Additionally, participants could self-apply them at home and were highly satisfied. However, increasing the length of the needles may result in slightly more pain compared to increasing the number of needles. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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13 pages, 8271 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effectiveness of a Complex Antioxidant Product Applied by Sonophoresis and Micro-Needle Mesotherapy

by Anna Jaros-Sajda, Elzbieta Budzisz and Anna Erkiert-Polguj

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030087 - 30 May 2024

Viewed by 1240

Abstract

Antioxidants (including Vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin) are among the compounds used in skincare products. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a combination containing L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and phloretin. The delivery of active substances was facilitated [...] Read more.

Antioxidants (including Vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin) are among the compounds used in skincare products. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a combination containing L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and phloretin. The delivery of active substances was facilitated by micro-needle mesotherapy and sonophoresis. The study was completed by 22 volunteers. The study resulted in a significant reduction of erythema and an improvement in skin hydration. According to participants, the therapy yielded visible anti-aging effects. The combination of up to three antioxidant-active ingredients and the use of transdermal application methods proved to be both safe and effective. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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18 pages, 3734 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Physicochemical Properties of a Bioactive Polysaccharide Film from Cassia grandis with Immobilized Collagenase from Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573)

by Kétura Ferreira, Kethylen Cardoso, Romero Brandão-Costa, Joana T. Martins, Cláudia Botelho, Anna Neves, Thiago Nascimento, Juanize Batista, Éverton Ferreira, Fernando Damasceno, Amanda Sales-Conniff, Wendell Albuquerque, Ana Porto and José Teixeira

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030086 - 29 May 2024

Viewed by 1092

Abstract

(1) Background: Polysaccharide films are promising vehicles for the delivery of bioactive agents such as collagenases, as they provide controlled release at the wound site, facilitating tissue regeneration. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of Cassia grandis polysaccharide films with immobilized [...] Read more.

(1) Background: Polysaccharide films are promising vehicles for the delivery of bioactive agents such as collagenases, as they provide controlled release at the wound site, facilitating tissue regeneration. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of Cassia grandis polysaccharide films with immobilized collagenase from Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573). (2) Methods: Galactomannan was extracted from Cassia grandis seeds for film production with 0.8% (w/v) galactomannan and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol with or without collagenases. The films underwent physical-chemical analyses: Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), color and opacity (luminosity-L*, green to red-a*, yellow to blue-b*, opacity-Y%), moisture content, water vapor permeability (WVP), thickness, contact angle, and mechanical properties. (3) Results: The results showed similar FTIR spectra to the literature, indicating carbonyl functional groups. Immobilizing bioactive compounds increased surface roughness observed in SEM. TGA indicated a better viability for films with immobilized S. parvulus enzymes. Both collagenase-containing and control films exhibited a bright-yellowish color with slight opacity (Y%). Mechanical tests revealed decreased rigidity in PCF (−25%) and SCF (−41%) and increased deformability in films with the immobilized bioactive compounds, PCF (234%) and SCF (295%). (4) Conclusions: Polysaccharide-based films are promising biomaterials for controlled composition, biocompatibility, biodegradability, and wound healing, with a potential in pharmacological applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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16 pages, 4054 KiB

Open AccessArticle

N-Acetylneuraminic Acid Inhibits Melanogenesis via Induction of Autophagy

by Kei Yoshikawa and Kazuhisa Maeda

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030082 - 21 May 2024

Viewed by 1403

Abstract

N-acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac) is the predominant form of sialic acid present in the glossy swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta). It is also the only form of sialic acid detected in the human body. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying melanogenesis [...] Read more.

N-acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac) is the predominant form of sialic acid present in the glossy swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta). It is also the only form of sialic acid detected in the human body. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying melanogenesis inhibition by Neu5Ac. We discovered that a reduction in tyrosinase protein levels led to an inhibition of melanin production by Neu5Ac. Additionally, the mRNA and protein levels of ubiquitin-specific protease (USP5) and microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3)-II increased, while those of p62 decreased, indicating enhanced autophagic activity. Lysosomal cathepsin L2 protein levels also increased, and immunostaining revealed colocalization of lysosomal membrane protein (LAMP)-1 and tyrosinase. Additionally, levels of chaperonin containing T-complex polypeptide (CCT), implicated in increased autophagic flux, were elevated. Altogether, these findings suggest that tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles are transported by Neu5Ac into the autophagic degradation pathway, suppressing mature melanosome generation. This process involves increased USP5 levels preventing recognition of polyubiquitin by proteasomes. Furthermore, elevated CCT3 protein levels may enhance autophagic flux, leading to the incorporation of tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles into autophagosomes. These autophagosomes then fuse with lysosomes for cathepsin L2–mediated degradation. Thus, our findings suggest that Neu5Ac reduces tyrosinase activity and inhibits melanosome maturation by promoting selective autophagic degradation of abnormal proteins by p62. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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13 pages, 3306 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of Chlorinated Water on Neurite Length of Cultured Dorsal Root Ganglion Neurons and Semaphorin 3A Content of Cultured Epidermal Keratinocytes

by Kazuhisa Maeda, Neneka Okumura, Aoba Ogawa and Hatsumi Takeda

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030075 - 7 May 2024

Viewed by 1600

Abstract

The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation [...] Read more.

The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation and itching in some people—especially those with sensitive skin or reduced skin barrier function. We investigated the effects of free residual chlorine on cultured dorsal root ganglion neurons and cultured epidermal keratinocytes. First, we measured neurite length in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Next, to evaluate the effects of chlorine on semaphorin 3A (Sema3A) and nerve growth factor (NGF) levels in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, we used an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay to measure NGF in the supernatant and polymerase chain reaction and Western blot to determine Sema3A and NGF levels. Chlorine elongated the neurite length and increased the number of projections in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Although there were no changes in NGF mRNA or protein levels in the supernatant of cultured human epidermal keratinocytes in the presence of chlorine, Sema3A mRNA and protein levels decreased, and the ratio of Sema3A to NGF was also reduced. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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10 pages, 2070 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy and Safety of Monopolar Radiofrequency for Tightening the Skin of Aged Faces

by JungMin Shin, Yeounkuk Sung, Soyoung Jin, Cho-Long Hwang, Hyunjung Kim, Dongkyun Hong, Kyung Eun Jung, Young-Joon Seo and Young Lee

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 71; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030071 - 3 May 2024

Viewed by 4237

Abstract

Background: Monopolar radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising modality for tightening the skin of aged faces. Although many studies have assessed the efficacy of monopolar RF via the clinical evaluation of photographs, few have examined the long-term effectiveness and safety of this [...] Read more.

Background: Monopolar radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising modality for tightening the skin of aged faces. Although many studies have assessed the efficacy of monopolar RF via the clinical evaluation of photographs, few have examined the long-term effectiveness and safety of this therapy using various skin testing devices. Methods: Twenty women with aged faces participated in this study. After a single monopolar RF treatment, three blinded dermatologists who were not involved in the treatment evaluated its clinical efficacy and safety after 4, 12, and 24 weeks. Skin firmness, fine wrinkles, skin pores, and skin tone were also measured using an indentometer (Courage+Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) and a facial aging measurement device (Mark-Vu; PSI Plus, Suwon-si, Republic of Korea). Results: Skin laxity in the jowls and nasolabial folds showed significant improvement 12 weeks after the single monopolar RF treatment when evaluated by dermatologists, and this improvement lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Moreover, the participants reported improvement at 4 weeks compared to baseline which lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Skin firmness measured in the cheek increased 4 weeks after treatment and continued to improve during 24 weeks of follow-up (p < 0.01). Although there was a gradual increase in improvement in skin pores, fine wrinkles, and skin tones, there were no statistical differences compared to the baseline. No patients experienced pain during the treatment, and no burns, skin breakdown, or scarring occurred after treatment. Conclusions: A single monopolar RF treatment is effective for females with aged face. A significant improvement in the jowls and nasolabial folds and facial skin firmness was observed between the 4- and 24-week follow-ups without adverse effects. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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14 pages, 2490 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Interaction of Perfumes with Cytochrome P-450 19

by Iva Drejslarová, Tomáš Ječmen and Petr Hodek

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 33; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020033 - 23 Feb 2024

Viewed by 3398

Abstract

Cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzymes play a key role in the metabolism of foreign compounds and in the biosynthesis and catabolism of endogenous substances, including hormones. The activity of these enzymes can be affected by various xenobiotics, such as pollutants, food constituents, pharmaceuticals, and [...] Read more.

Cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzymes play a key role in the metabolism of foreign compounds and in the biosynthesis and catabolism of endogenous substances, including hormones. The activity of these enzymes can be affected by various xenobiotics, such as pollutants, food constituents, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetic products, which can disrupt the endocrine system by interfering with steroidogenic CYPs. CYP19, also known as aromatase, is a crucial enzyme for testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol, which is the final step in estrogen biosynthesis. Endocrine disruptors have the potential to inhibit CYP19 activity, leading to an imbalance in estrogen levels in the body. This imbalance can impair reproduction and cause osteoporosis, atherosclerosis, dementia, and some types of cancer. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of commercially available perfumes on testosterone aromatization to 17β-estradiol. For this purpose, we used high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with UV detection and HPLC coupled with mass spectrometry (MS) to examine CYP19 activity with and without perfume. The results showed that all perfumes tested (in a 300-fold dilution) had an inhibitory effect on this enzyme-catalyzed reaction, particularly the Montale^® fragrance, ‘Intense Roses Musk’, which decreased 17β-estradiol production by 88% in comparison with the control. Upon exposure to UV light, the inhibitory effect of this perfume did not decrease. But exposure to UV light significantly increased the inhibitory capacity of another perfume with a weak baseline inhibitory effect. To ascertain whether this inhibition was caused by CYP19 interactions with perfumes, we measured the catalytic activity of NADPH:cytochrome P450 oxidoreductase (CYPOR), the CYP reaction partner, with one selected perfume, ‘Intense Roses Musk’ by Montale^®, and found no significant CYPOR inhibition. Accordingly, the decrease in testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol caused by this perfume derives solely from CYP19. Combined, our findings highlight the importance of testing perfumes rather than single ingredients to determine their potential for adverse effects and to ensure consumer safety because their mixtures can interfere with a key enzyme of estrogen biosynthesis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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Review

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23 pages, 1124 KiB

Open AccessReview

Antimicrobial Compounds from Food Waste in Cosmetics

by Antonio Silletta, Antonia Mancuso, Nicola d’Avanzo, Maria Chiara Cristiano and Donatella Paolino

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 151; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050151 - 1 Sep 2024

Viewed by 3701

Abstract

The cosmetics industry has experienced rapid growth, driven by consumer demand for products in line with modern lifestyles and technological advances, with greater awareness of the impacts on health and the ecosystem. This review explores the potential use of antibacterial compounds derived from [...] Read more.

The cosmetics industry has experienced rapid growth, driven by consumer demand for products in line with modern lifestyles and technological advances, with greater awareness of the impacts on health and the ecosystem. This review explores the potential use of antibacterial compounds derived from food waste as sustainable alternatives to synthetic preservatives in cosmetic products. Waste obtained from food, including fruit peels, seeds, and plant remnants, is rich in natural bioactives, including polyphenolic compounds and essential oils that exhibit antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing features. The integration of these natural ingredients not only improves the shelf-life and safety of cosmetics but also promotes environmentally friendly practices. We discuss the sources and antimicrobial efficacy of these compounds, along with recent technological innovations. This sustainable approach responds to consumer preferences for natural ingredients, reduces food waste, and supports environmental sustainability, ultimately increasing the value and attractiveness of cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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11 pages, 858 KiB

Open AccessReview

Genomic Markers and Personalized Medicine in Androgenetic Alopecia: A Comprehensive Review

by Laura Vila-Vecilla, Valentina Russo and Gustavo Torres de Souza

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 148; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050148 - 27 Aug 2024

Viewed by 2830

Abstract

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common form of hair loss, significantly affecting both men and women worldwide. Characterized by progressive hair thinning and loss, AGA is primarily mediated by dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Recent research has identified numerous single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) associated with AGA, [...] Read more.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common form of hair loss, significantly affecting both men and women worldwide. Characterized by progressive hair thinning and loss, AGA is primarily mediated by dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Recent research has identified numerous single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) associated with AGA, particularly in genes involved in androgen metabolism, prostaglandin pathways, and vasodilation. These genetic markers offer insights into AGA pathophysiology and potential therapeutic targets. Pharmacogenetics, the study of how genetic variations influence drug response, holds promise for personalized AGA treatment. Identifying SNPs that affect the efficacy of treatments like minoxidil and finasteride enables the development of tailored therapeutic strategies. For instance, genetic variants in the SRD5A2 gene, which affects DHT metabolism, can predict responsiveness to 5-alpha-reductase inhibitors. Beyond pharmacogenetics, RNA interference (RNAi) technologies, e.g., small interfering RNAs (siRNAs), present new therapeutic avenues. Studies have shown the efficacy of RNAi-based treatments in targeting androgen receptors, promoting hair growth in AGA models. Integrating genetic and pharmacogenetic research into clinical practice can transform AGA management, enhancing treatment efficacy and patient outcomes. In conclusion, genetic and pharmacogenetic insights are crucial for developing personalized treatments for AGA, while emerging RNAi technologies offer promising new interventions. These advancements represent significant steps toward more effective and individualized AGA therapies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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15 pages, 1960 KiB

Open AccessReview

Sustainable Dynamic Wrinkle Efficacy: Non-Invasive Peptides as the Future of Botox Alternatives

by Trang Thi Minh Nguyen, Eun-Ji Yi, Xiangji Jin, Qiwen Zheng, Se-Jig Park, Gyeong-Seon Yi, Su-Jin Yang and Tae-Hoo Yi

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 118; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040118 - 11 Jul 2024

Viewed by 4892

Abstract

Dynamic wrinkle reduction continues to challenge aesthetic dermatology, predominantly addressed through Botulinumtoxin (Botox) injections. Despite Botox’s robust efficacy with up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week, its invasive administration and specific mechanism of soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein [...] Read more.

Dynamic wrinkle reduction continues to challenge aesthetic dermatology, predominantly addressed through Botulinumtoxin (Botox) injections. Despite Botox’s robust efficacy with up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week, its invasive administration and specific mechanism of soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) complex inhibition prompt the exploration of safer, non-invasive alternatives. This review critically assesses recent innovations in non-invasive effects, with a focus on peptides and botanical extracts that exhibit a diverse array of mechanisms including SNARE complex inhibition, modulation of calcium and sodium channels, and interactions with acetylcholine receptors, contributing to their effectiveness in muscle relaxation on dynamic wrinkle approaches. Noteworthy peptides such as Argireline and SYN-Ake replicate the neuromodulatory effects of Botox, achieving up to a 52% reduction in wrinkles within four weeks without injections. Moreover, botanical extracts meet the rising demand for clean beauty solutions by enhancing skin elasticity and health through gentle yet potent mechanisms. However, the main concern with peptides is their low absorption rate, with only six clinical validations regarding Botox-like peptide anti-wrinkle efficacy available. These advancements not only deepen our understanding of cosmetic dermatology but also significantly influence market dynamics and consumer behavior, underscoring their pivotal role in redefining the future landscape of anti-aging effects. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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45 pages, 12316 KiB

Open AccessReview

A Spotlight on the Potential of Microscopic Motile Algae as Novel Sources for Modern Cosmetic Products

by Maya Stoyneva-Gärtner, Blagoy Uzunov and Georg Gärtner

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040115 - 9 Jul 2024

Viewed by 1416

Abstract

The recognition and use of algae in the very trend-driven cosmetic industry is progressively increasing. Up to now, the main focus was on large seaweeds and a limited number of microalgae. However, motile microalgae, flagellates, remain underscored in this aspect, although some of [...] Read more.

The recognition and use of algae in the very trend-driven cosmetic industry is progressively increasing. Up to now, the main focus was on large seaweeds and a limited number of microalgae. However, motile microalgae, flagellates, remain underscored in this aspect, although some of them are utilized commercially. Flagellates from different taxonomic groups occupy various habitats and contain bioactive high-value multifunctional compounds, some of which are novel. Moreover, they may simultaneously produce different substances, which together with the development of downstream processing technologies, makes them a promising source for modern biotechnology. The present review covers data on 411 strains, 251 species from 110 genera from 6 phyla, and is oriented generally towards less explored flagellates. It demonstrates their great potential as bearers of interesting novel compounds that can be beneficially applied in modern cosmetics. Safety aspects of both sources and products are also discussed. Considering the gaps in the knowledge, the necessity to expand the research on both well-known and yet unexplored microalgae is shown, encouraging the development of upstreaming processes, including phycoprospecting. Last but not least, this paper outlines the role of living culture collections and of using good taxonomic expertise before running the biochemical tests, cultivation, and bioengineering experiments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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28 pages, 14514 KiB

Open AccessReview

Disturbances in the Skin Homeostasis: Wound Healing, an Undefined Process

by Montserrat Férnandez-Guarino, Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez and Stefano Bacci

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030090 - 4 Jun 2024

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1963

Abstract

This review was written with the aim of examining the effects that cause an insult, such as a wound, to an organ, such as the skin. Before examining the cellular mechanisms relating to wound healing, the reader is invited to read about the [...] Read more.

This review was written with the aim of examining the effects that cause an insult, such as a wound, to an organ, such as the skin. Before examining the cellular mechanisms relating to wound healing, the reader is invited to read about the structure of the skin as a necessary basis for understanding the final aim of this review. The structure of the skin as a basis for understanding the phenomena relating to wound healing is addressed, taking into account the updated literature that addresses the numerous problems of the skin microenvironment. Starting from this awareness, the paragraphs dedicated to wound healing become complicated when this phenomenon is not implemented and therefore while the problems of chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars are addressed, these are pathologies that are still difficult to understand and treat today. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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29 pages, 1254 KiB

Open AccessReview

Recent Advances in Microneedling-Assisted Cosmetic Applications

by Rania Hamed, Baraah Jehad Abu Nahia, Ahlam Zaid Alkilani, Yasmeen Al-Adhami and Rana Obaidat

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 51; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020051 - 2 Apr 2024

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 10946

Abstract

Microneedling, also known as percutaneous collagen induction, using microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches, has been widely employed in cosmetic applications for acne scar treatment, skin care, hair loss, melasma, skin rejuvenation, and skin cancer. The micro-channels formed by microneedling through the stratum [...] Read more.

Microneedling, also known as percutaneous collagen induction, using microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches, has been widely employed in cosmetic applications for acne scar treatment, skin care, hair loss, melasma, skin rejuvenation, and skin cancer. The micro-channels formed by microneedling through the stratum corneum facilitate the delivery of cosmetic agents and stimulate collagen and elastin production by inducing the wound-healing cascade, keeping the skin shiny and wrinkle-free. Several cosmetic agents, such as ascorbic acid, hyaluronic acid, retinoids, niacinamide, and peptides, have been delivered by microneedling. This review aims to highlight the use of microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches in facilitating the delivery of cosmetic agents through the skin layers. Moreover, the differences between the microneedling devices, commonly used alone or in combinational treatments with topical formulations, are explored. Furthermore, the safety of microneedling in terms of skin irritation, pain sensation, skin or systemic infection, and chemical and biological materials used in the fabrication of microneedles is discussed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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