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Cosmetics
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Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies
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Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (20 January 2023) | Viewed by 38399

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Christophe Hano

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
LBLGC EA1207, INRA USC1328, University of Orleans, 21 Rue Loigny la Bataille, F-28000 Chartres, France
Interests: chemistry of natural products; analytical methods; HPLC; LC-MS; polyphenols (lignans, flavonoids, phenolic acids); ethnopharmacology; history of pharmacy
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Vasil Georgiev

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Laboratory of Cell Biosystems, Department of Biotechnology, The Stephan Angeloff Institute of Microbiology, Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, 4000 Plovdiv, Bulgaria
Interests: biotechnology; plant cell, tissue and organ cultures; metabolite profiling; nutraceuticals; natural products; essential oils; nutricosmetics
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Duangjai Tungmunnithum

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Pharmaceutical Botany, Faculty of Pharmacy, Mahidol University, Bangkok 10400, Thailand
Interests: natural products; medicinal plants; flavonoids; pharmacological activities; anti-aging; cosmeceuticals; nutricosmetics; phytopharmaceutical products
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleague,

Plants have long been the primary source of active ingredients for pharmaceuticals and cosmeceuticals. Today, the cosmetics and cosmeceuticals industries must continuously innovate in order to ensure the efficacy and safety of their products. While the golden age of chemistry for the development of innovative cosmetics resulted in a significant reduction in the use of natural ingredients, recent controversies over such products that could negatively impact human health or the environment have provided an impetus to reintroduce plant-based raw materials into cosmetic formulations and reinforced the need to explore the unique potential of plants.

To maintain its image and credibility in the eyes of the public and to meet ever-increasing regulatory restrictions, plant biomass production and plant extract preparation must be environmentally sustainable. The recent implementation of green technologies (process, product, or service) significantly reduces negative environmental impacts, while preserving human health and ecosystem quality. Plant cultivation systems (in vitro cultures, hydroponics, valorization of byproducts, etc.) have been developed, as have green extraction technologies (enzyme-, ultrasound-, microwave-assisted extractions, modern green solvents such as NaDES (natural deep eutectic solvents), green formulation using natural products, and so on.

This Special Issue welcomes original research papers and/or reviews describing the development of novel plant, extract, ingredient, or formulation for cosmetics using green technologies, and other related fields.

Dr. Christophe Hano
Dr. Vasil Georgiev
Dr. Duangjai Tungmunnithum
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • Plant sourcing
  • Cosmetics/cosmeceuticals
  • Green chemistry
  • Green biotechnology
  • Sustainable development
  • Natural bioactive ingredients

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Further information on MDPI's Special Issue polices can be found here.

Published Papers (8 papers)

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Research

Jump to: Review, Other

11 pages, 3492 KiB  
Article
Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Oxidative Effects of Nostoc verrucosum (ashitsuki) Extracts
by Kazuomi Sato, Yosuke Hiraga, Yuji Yamaguchi, Setsuko Sakaki and Hiroyuki Takenaka
Cosmetics 2023, 10(1), 30; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010030 - 9 Feb 2023
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 2630
Abstract
Nostoc verrucosum, an edible microalgal species, forms colonies in streams. Here, we investigated the antimelanogenic and anti-oxidative effects of N. verrucosum extracts. We collected N. verrucosum from Toyama Prefecture, Japan, and successfully cultured it in indoor cultivation systems. Aqueous, methanol, and hexane [...] Read more.
Nostoc verrucosum, an edible microalgal species, forms colonies in streams. Here, we investigated the antimelanogenic and anti-oxidative effects of N. verrucosum extracts. We collected N. verrucosum from Toyama Prefecture, Japan, and successfully cultured it in indoor cultivation systems. Aqueous, methanol, and hexane extracts of N. verrucosum were prepared for various experiments. To elucidate the antimelanogenic effects of N. verrucosum, we performed tyrosinase assay, melanin content assay, western blotting, and real-time quantitative reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR). Anti-oxidative effects were evaluated using the 2,2’-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) assay. The methanol and hexane extracts significantly inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F1 melanoma cells. Western blotting showed that 12.5 and 25.0 µg/mL N. verrucosum hexane extract suppressed tyrosinase activity. The qRT-PCR analysis revealed that N. verrucosum hexane extract inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-enhanced tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, TRP-2, and melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) mRNA expression. On the contrary, N. verrucosum hexane extract did not alter microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf) transcription. The ABTS assay showed that all extracts had radical scavenging activities, and the IC50 values of the aqueous and methanol extracts were 294.6 and 172.8 µg/mL, respectively. Our findings demonstrate that N. verrucosum is a suitable candidate for the development of antimelanogenic agents, cosmetics, or functional food ingredients. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)
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16 pages, 2171 KiB  
Article
Ecodesigned Formulations with Tomato Pomace Extracts
by Aya Jamaleddine, Martine Urrutigoïty, Jalloul Bouajila, Othmane Merah, Philippe Evon and Pascale de Caro
Cosmetics 2023, 10(1), 7; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010007 - 30 Dec 2022
Cited by 8 | Viewed by 3371
Abstract
Tomato pomace (TP) has previously been identified as a coproduct that is rich in bioactive molecules, with potential beneficial effects for health. For tomato pomace that is composed of the skin, seeds and fibers, the challenge is to recover the molecules of interest [...] Read more.
Tomato pomace (TP) has previously been identified as a coproduct that is rich in bioactive molecules, with potential beneficial effects for health. For tomato pomace that is composed of the skin, seeds and fibers, the challenge is to recover the molecules of interest trapped in the biopolymers. The use of deep eutectic solvents to extract metabolites from vegetable materials could present some advantages. Four natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were synthesized and characterized by infrared spectroscopy, thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The TP was treated by maceration at moderate temperatures with the NaDESs. We identified 39 extracted molecules by HPLC–DAD, which revealed an abundance of hydroxy/methoxy flavones, flavanols, flavonols, phenolic acids, carotenoids and tannins, as well as a certain selectivity in the extracted molecules. Four cosmetic formulations that included the NaDESs were prepared. The NaDESs showed film-forming properties, which were harnessed for the final formulations, thanks to their biocompatibilities. Finally, the coupling of the extraction and formulation is a way to preserve the quality of the extracts and prepare ecodesigned formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)
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15 pages, 2566 KiB  
Article
Green Synthesis Optimization of Glucose Palm Oleate and Its Potential Use as Natural Surfactant in Cosmetic Emulsion
by Phanuphong Chaiwut, Areeya Jirarat, Ninnapat Tiensri, Sarita Sangthong and Punyawatt Pintathong
Cosmetics 2022, 9(4), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9040076 - 25 Jul 2022
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 3728
Abstract
This study aimed to optimize the green synthesis of glucose palm oleate catalyzed by Carica papaya Lipase (CPL) through transesterification in a solvent-free system. Palm olein was used as a fatty acid donor for transesterification reactant and was also employed as a reaction [...] Read more.
This study aimed to optimize the green synthesis of glucose palm oleate catalyzed by Carica papaya Lipase (CPL) through transesterification in a solvent-free system. Palm olein was used as a fatty acid donor for transesterification reactant and was also employed as a reaction medium. Reaction optimization was performed by using response surface methodology (RSM). Seventeen synthesis conditions were generated by a Box–Behnken design and the products were further determined by ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC). Fatty acid compositions of palm olein identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) found that oleic acid (51.77 ± 0.67%) and palmitic acid (37.22 ± 0.48%) were major components. The synthesis variable factors of 50 °C, 45 h reaction time, and 1400 U of CPL were predicted by the RSM to be optimum conditions and thus provided the highest glucose palm oleate of 0.3542 mmol/g. Conjugation between palm olein fatty acids and glucose via transesterification resulted in glucose palm oleate being obviously verified by UPLC, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and thin-layer chromatography (TLC) analyses. The synthesized sugar fatty acid ester revealed an HLB value of 6.20 represented by the lowest % creaming index (%CI) of 35.40 ± 3.21%. It also exhibited a critical micelle concentration (CMC) of 3.16 × 10−5 M. This study is the first report to reveal the transesterification of glucose and palm olein catalyzed by CPL in a system without using any solvent. Glucose palm oleate has been shown to be derived from an environmentally friendly synthesis process and would be promising as a potential alternative natural surfactant for cosmetic application. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)
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17 pages, 8793 KiB  
Article
Comparative Analysis of Various Plant-Growth-Regulator Treatments on Biomass Accumulation, Bioactive Phytochemical Production, and Biological Activity of Solanum virginianum L. Callus Culture Extracts
by Hazrat Usman, Hasnain Jan, Gouhar Zaman, Mehnaz Khanum, Samantha Drouet, Laurine Garros, Duangjai Tungmunnithum, Christophe Hano and Bilal Haider Abbasi
Cosmetics 2022, 9(4), 71; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9040071 - 30 Jun 2022
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 3810
Abstract
Solanum virginianum L. (Solanum xanthocarpum) is an important therapeutic plant due to the presence of medicinally useful plant-derived compounds. S. virginianum has been shown to have anticancer, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiaging, and anti-inflammatory properties. This plant is becoming endangered due to overexploitation [...] Read more.
Solanum virginianum L. (Solanum xanthocarpum) is an important therapeutic plant due to the presence of medicinally useful plant-derived compounds. S. virginianum has been shown to have anticancer, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiaging, and anti-inflammatory properties. This plant is becoming endangered due to overexploitation and the loss of its native habitat. The purpose of this research is to develop an ideal technique for the maximum biomass and phytochemical accumulation in S. virginianum leaf-induced in vitro cultures, as well as to evaluate their potential antiaging, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant abilities. Leaf explants were grown on media (Murashige and Skoog (MS)) that were supplemented with various concentrations and combinations of plant hormones (TDZ, BAP, NAA, and TDZ + NAA) for this purpose. When compared with the other hormones, TDZ demonstrated the best response for callus induction, biomass accumulation, phytochemical synthesis, and biological activities. However, with 5 mg/L of TDZ, the optimal biomass production (FW: 251.48 g/L and DW: 13.59 g/L) was estimated. The highest total phenolic level (10.22 ± 0.44 mg/g DW) was found in 5 mg/L of TDZ, whereas the highest flavonoid contents (1.65 ± 0.11 mg/g DW) were found in 10 mg/L of TDZ. The results of the HPLC revealed that the highest production of coumarins (scopoletin: 4.34 ± 0.20 mg/g DW and esculetin: 0.87 ± 0.040 mg/g DW) was determined for 10 mg/L of TDZ, whereas the highest accumulations of caffeic acid (0.56 ± 0.021 mg/g DW) and methyl caffeate (18.62 ± 0.60 mg/g DW) were shown by 5 mg/L of TDZ. The determination of these phytochemicals (phenolics and coumarins) estimates that the results of our study on biological assays, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiaging assays, are useful for future cosmetic applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)
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13 pages, 3056 KiB  
Article
Ceriporia lacerata Mycelium Culture Medium as a Novel Anti-Aging Microbial Material for Cosmeceutical Application
by Jeong-Hwan Kim, Changhun An, Seong Deok Hwang and Yoon Soo Kim
Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040101 - 2 Nov 2021
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 5800
Abstract
Skincare is very critical in preventing aging and skin trouble, which is difficult to recover if progressed. However, the development of effective anti-aging solutions is still on the horizon. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the functional efficacy of Ceriporia lacerata [...] Read more.
Skincare is very critical in preventing aging and skin trouble, which is difficult to recover if progressed. However, the development of effective anti-aging solutions is still on the horizon. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the functional efficacy of Ceriporia lacerata exo-pharmaceutical substance (CLEPS) in view of its use in innovative skin care cosmetics. CLEPS was found to have no cytotoxicity against normal human dermal fibroblasts and B16 melanoma cells in a wide concentration range of 0.05–7 mg/mL. It exhibited a whitening effect by inhibiting melanin synthesis comparable to that of the respective reference compound (arbutin). Notably, CLEPS not only substantially increased collagen (65.4%) and filaggrin synthesis (36%), but also significantly inhibited the activity of collagenase (93.4%), suggesting that CLEPS could prevent skin barrier damage or skin wrinkles. In addition, it showed an excellent anti-inflammatory effect and wound-healing effect. Overall, CLEPS exhibited exceptional anti-aging effects in human skin cells, designating as a potential natural cosmeceutical ingredient. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)
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10 pages, 3557 KiB  
Article
The Ethanol Extract of Musa sapientum Linn. Peel Inhibits Melanogenesis through AKT Signaling Pathway
by Naphichaya Phacharapiyangkul, Krit Thirapanmethee, Khanit Sa-ngiamsuntorn, Uraiwan Panich, Che-Hsin Lee and Mullika Traidej Chomnawang
Cosmetics 2021, 8(3), 70; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030070 - 5 Aug 2021
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 3988
Abstract
Hyperpigmentation caused by melanin overproduction can be induced by UV radiation. The quest for effective depigmenting agents continues because many anti-melanin agents have restricted use and/or produce side-effects. The present study was aimed to investigate the inhibitory activity of Musa sapientum Linn. (AA [...] Read more.
Hyperpigmentation caused by melanin overproduction can be induced by UV radiation. The quest for effective depigmenting agents continues because many anti-melanin agents have restricted use and/or produce side-effects. The present study was aimed to investigate the inhibitory activity of Musa sapientum Linn. (AA group) peel ethanol extracts (MPE) on α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin production. In addition, the molecular mechanism related to this process was examined in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. The results indicated that MPE remarkably inhibited melanogenesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase expressions were suppressed by MPE in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, MPE significantly decreased the expression of melanosome transfer protein markers (Rab27a and Pmel17) in a dose-dependent manner. This study found that the elevated phosphorylation of AKT in the B16F10 cells was diminished by MPE treatment. Furthermore, microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3)-II and p62 (autophagy markers) were affected after the B16F10 cells were treated with MPE. This study demonstrated that MPE might be an effective agent for anti-melanogenesis through the AKT pathway, subsequently diminishing MITF expression and tyrosinase enzyme family production. The findings indicated that MPE could potentially serve as a depigmenting agent in cosmeceuticals. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)
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Review

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18 pages, 639 KiB  
Review
Recent Green Technologies in Natural Stilbenoids Production and Extraction: The Next Chapter in the Cosmetic Industry
by Chaiwat Aneklaphakij, Phatthilakorn Chamnanpuen, Somnuk Bunsupa and Veena Satitpatipan
Cosmetics 2022, 9(5), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9050091 - 6 Sep 2022
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 3830
Abstract
Stilbenoids are well-known phytoalexins in the group of polyphenolic compounds. Because of their potent bioactivities, including antioxidant, antityrosinase, photoprotective, and antibacterial activities, stilbenoids are utilized as pharmaceutical active ingredient in cosmetic products. Thus, the demand for stilbenoids in the cosmetic industry is increasing. [...] Read more.
Stilbenoids are well-known phytoalexins in the group of polyphenolic compounds. Because of their potent bioactivities, including antioxidant, antityrosinase, photoprotective, and antibacterial activities, stilbenoids are utilized as pharmaceutical active ingredient in cosmetic products. Thus, the demand for stilbenoids in the cosmetic industry is increasing. The main sources of stilbenoids are plants. Although plants are green and sustainable source materials, some of them do not allow a regular and constant supply due to seasonal and geographic reasons. Stilbenoids typically have been extracted by conventional organic solvent extraction, and then purified by separation techniques. This method is unfriendly to the environment and may deteriorate human health. Hence, the procedures called “green technologies” are focused on novel extraction methods and sustainable stilbenoids production by using biotechnology. In this review, the chemical structures together with the biosynthesis and current plant sources of resveratrol, oxyresveratrol, and piceatannol are described. Furthermore, recent natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) for green extraction as well as plant cell cultures for the production of those stilbene compounds are updated. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)
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Other

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26 pages, 1092 KiB  
Systematic Review
Thanaka (H. crenulata, N. crenulata, L. acidissima L.): A Systematic Review of Its Chemical, Biological Properties and Cosmeceutical Applications
by Min Wen Lim, Mohamed Kheireddine Aroua and Lai Ti Gew
Cosmetics 2021, 8(3), 68; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030068 - 30 Jul 2021
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 9589
Abstract
Thanaka (H. crenulata, N. crenulata, L. acidissima L.) is a common tree in Southeast Asia used by the people of Myanmar to create their distinctive face makeup meant for daily sun protection and skincare. Moreover, it is used as a [...] Read more.
Thanaka (H. crenulata, N. crenulata, L. acidissima L.) is a common tree in Southeast Asia used by the people of Myanmar to create their distinctive face makeup meant for daily sun protection and skincare. Moreover, it is used as a traditional remedy to treat various diseases since it can also be applied as an insect repellent. In this systematic review, the chemical and biological properties of Thanaka have been summarised from 18 articles obtained from the Scopus database. Various extracts of Thanaka comprise a significant number of bioactive compounds that include antioxidant, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, anti-melanogenic and anti-microbial properties. More importantly, Thanaka exhibits low cytotoxicity towards human cell lines. The use of natural plant materials with various beneficial biological activities have been commonly replacing artificial and synthetic chemicals for health and environmental reasons as natural plant materials offer advantages such as antioxidant, antibacterial qualities while providing essential nourishment to the skin. This review serves as a reference for the research, development and commercialisation of Thanaka skincare products, in particular, sunscreen. Natural sunscreens have attracted enormous interests as a potential replacement for sun protection products made using synthetic chemicals such as oxybenzone that would cause health issues and damage to the environment. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics in the Age of Green Technologies)
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