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Volume 12
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Cosmetics, Volume 12, Issue 1 (February 2025) – 24 articles

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19 pages, 1871 KiB  
Review
The Origin, Intricate Nature, and Role of the Skin Surface pH (pHSS) in Barrier Integrity, Eczema, and Psoriasis
by Dalibor Mijaljica, Joshua P. Townley, Daniel J. Klionsky, Fabrizio Spada and Mikayla Lai
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 24; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010024 - 3 Feb 2025
Abstract
The inherent acidic nature of the stratum corneum (SC), the so-called “acid mantle”, has a multitude of effects on skin barrier integrity owing to its (patho)physiological role in skin homeostasis, antimicrobial defense, and inflammation. Several salient SC acidifying mechanisms, including the breakdown of [...] Read more.
The inherent acidic nature of the stratum corneum (SC), the so-called “acid mantle”, has a multitude of effects on skin barrier integrity owing to its (patho)physiological role in skin homeostasis, antimicrobial defense, and inflammation. Several salient SC acidifying mechanisms, including the breakdown of FLG (filaggrin) protein, lipid processing, and the activity of the sodium proton pump SLC9A1/NHE1, are indispensable for the structural and functional integrity and cohesion of the SC as they contribute immensely to the origin, generation, maintenance, and overall SC acidification of the skin surface pH (pHss). As many endogenous and exogenous factors can affect the pHss, the pHss can inevitably deviate from its optimum. The elevation of the pHss is often accompanied by abnormalities in SC lipid metabolism and organization, SC cohesion, and SC integrity and is commonly observed in eczema, which is associated with symptoms of dry skin, inflammation, pruritus, and infection. In psoriasis, it seems that the pHss is altered as well; however, in this case, it is likely to be lower than the physiological pHss. Due to the negative effects of an altered pHss in both eczema and psoriasis, it has been suggested to maintain the pHss at physiological levels by utilizing pH-balanced topical cleansers and moisturizers that can improve the skin’s structural and functional integrity by benefiting skin moisturization and the regeneration and organization of the SC barrier. The principal aim of this review is to gather an understanding of the existing research and to stimulate critical thinking and inspire innovative ideas about ‘known unknowns’, considering the origin, intricate nature, and prime role of the pHss in human skin health, as well as the pathogenesis of eczema and psoriasis. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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16 pages, 8078 KiB  
Article
In Vitro Investigation of Antiaging Efficacy of Pterostilbene as Cosmetic Ingredient
by Zongxiao Cen, Zhiyuan Chen, Ding Wang, Yuqin Zuo, Xueping Chen and Junyuan Chen
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 23; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010023 - 30 Jan 2025
Viewed by 500
Abstract
Pterostilbene is gaining increasing attention as an effective ingredient in cosmetics. This study was performed to investigate the antiaging efficacy of pterostilbene using a human-originated P2 generation fibroblast assay and an in vitro skin experiment. A fibroblast cytotoxicity assay was performed to evaluate [...] Read more.
Pterostilbene is gaining increasing attention as an effective ingredient in cosmetics. This study was performed to investigate the antiaging efficacy of pterostilbene using a human-originated P2 generation fibroblast assay and an in vitro skin experiment. A fibroblast cytotoxicity assay was performed to evaluate the safety of pterostilbene: a 30 J/cm2 UVA irradiated fibroblast cell assay and a 30 J/cm2 UVA and 50 mJ/cm2 UVB-irradiated in vitro skin experiment were carried out to evaluate the antiaging efficacy of pterostilbene. The cytotoxicity assay found that 3.90 µg/mL or lower concentrations of pterostilbene exerted no significant toxicity to fibroblasts. The fibroblast cell assay showed that 2.6 µg/mL pterostilbene alleviated the UVA damage to fibroblasts by down-regulating the gene expression of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) by 18.62% and decreasing the content of MMP-1 by 10.08%, MMP-3 by 15.10%, and collagen I by 33.92%. The in vitro skin experiment revealed that pterostilbene relieved the adverse UVA and UVB irradiation effects on skin tissue by increasing the thickness of the epidermis to maintain skin morphology, preventing the degradation of collagen fibers by 88.57%, and increasing the amount of collagen IV by 30.95%, collagen VII by 25.64%, and fibroblast growth factor-β (FGF-β) by 15.67%. This fibroblast assay and in vitro skin study consistently demonstrated the strong antiaging efficacy of pterostilbene. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
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19 pages, 1117 KiB  
Review
Lipid Nanoparticles and Skin: Discoveries and Advances
by Debora Santonocito and Carmelo Puglia
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 22; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010022 - 27 Jan 2025
Viewed by 550
Abstract
Nowadays, skin is one of the organs most commonly affected by diseases (infections, inflammations, and injuries) due to exposure to the external environment. Although topical treatment represents the most suitable administration route, it is poorly effective due to the low permeability of the [...] Read more.
Nowadays, skin is one of the organs most commonly affected by diseases (infections, inflammations, and injuries) due to exposure to the external environment. Although topical treatment represents the most suitable administration route, it is poorly effective due to the low permeability of the drug through the skin. Skin drug delivery by lipid nanocarriers (LNs) appears to be a suitable therapeutic strategy to overcome these issues, allowing it to reach a topical or systemic effect. Several LN-based products have been developed to enhance the permeation of bioactive compounds through the skin, obtaining interesting results in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. Therefore, this review aims to analyze the scientific literature regarding the use of LNs to treat major skin diseases (psoriasis, wound healing, atopic dermatitis, and acne) and esthetic skin defects (wrinkles and cellulite). Furthermore, attention has been paid to the transdermal application of LNs (topical formulations, transdermal patches, and microneedles), being a new topic in recent years. Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")
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19 pages, 2061 KiB  
Article
Fenugreek as a Potential Active Ingredient for the Development of Innovative Cosmetic Formulation
by Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Emna Chaabani, Soumaya Bourgou, Majdi Hammami, Moufida Saidani Tounsi, Othmane Merah and Iness Bettaieb Rebey
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 21; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010021 - 24 Jan 2025
Viewed by 572
Abstract
This study focuses on optimizing the extraction conditions for antioxidants from the fenugreek seeds (Trigonella foenum-graecum L.) through ultrasound-assisted extraction with the aim of creating a stable and effective cosmetic formulation. RSM was used to optimize the extraction parameters to ultrasonic power [...] Read more.
This study focuses on optimizing the extraction conditions for antioxidants from the fenugreek seeds (Trigonella foenum-graecum L.) through ultrasound-assisted extraction with the aim of creating a stable and effective cosmetic formulation. RSM was used to optimize the extraction parameters to ultrasonic power of 60%, with 50% ethanol concentration for 10 min. Under those conditions, the extract showed a phenolic-rich profile, with a total phenolic content equivalent to 18.56 mg GAE/g DM and a radical scavenging activity of 63.24%. Chromatographic analysis further confirmed the abundance of phenolic compounds, with epicatechin identified as the major compound at a concentration of 22.58 mg/g DM. The extract exhibited considerable antibacterial activity for a number of bacterial strains, and it exhibited no cell toxicity on RAW 267.4 cells, supporting its safe use in cosmetic products. The cosmetic formulation maintained high stability, with pH values from 6.25 to 6.35, viscosity values from 7941.69 to 7956.70 cp, and less color change after 90 days of preservation under varied temperature conditions. These findings validate fenugreek extract’s potential for producing a stable, eco-friendly, and effective cosmetic product, thus bringing skin health benefits and driving sustainable extraction methods in the cosmetic industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds - 2nd Edition)
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25 pages, 2805 KiB  
Article
Long-Term Efficacy of Poly(L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) Copolymer Lifting Threads with Encapsulated MICROscale Hyaluronic Acid Particles Using NAMICA Technology: Investigating Biorevitalizing Effects in Skin Remodeling (Part 1)
by Pavel Burko, George Sulamanidze and Dmitriy Nikishin
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 20; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010020 - 23 Jan 2025
Viewed by 492
Abstract
Facial thread lifting with absorbable threads such as poly(L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) (P(LA/CL)) has been explored in an animal model. This experimental study utilized P(LA/CL)-HA-micro threads enhanced with hyaluronic acid microencapsulation via NAMICA technology in five four-month-old female pigs. The effects were compared to those of [...] Read more.
Facial thread lifting with absorbable threads such as poly(L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) (P(LA/CL)) has been explored in an animal model. This experimental study utilized P(LA/CL)-HA-micro threads enhanced with hyaluronic acid microencapsulation via NAMICA technology in five four-month-old female pigs. The effects were compared to those of P(LA/CL)-HA threads over a six-month period through histological analysis. The results indicated improvements in skin remodeling, with P(LA/CL)-HA-micro threads enabling controlled and prolonged release of hyaluronic acid, leading to sustained improvements in tissue structure. These findings suggest that microencapsulated threads could enhance therapeutic outcomes; however, these results are preliminary and derived from an animal model. Further research and clinical trials are necessary to confirm these benefits in human subjects. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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16 pages, 2260 KiB  
Article
Purification and Identification of Flavonoids from Prunus mume and Its Anti-Photoaging Activities on UVB-Induced Human Keratinocytes
by Yuxuan Liu, Mengdie He, Xinxin Wei, Qifeng Han, Xiang Yang, Gangyi Huang, Chen Zhang, Mengqi Wu and Wenqing Zhang
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 19; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010019 - 23 Jan 2025
Viewed by 531
Abstract
Prunus mume (Armeniaca mume Sieb. var. mume f. viridicalyx (Makino) T. Y. Chen) is a common landscape plant. It has rich flavonoid content, which shows strong biological activities. In this study, the application potential of flavonoids in Prunus mume in anti-photoaging cosmetics [...] Read more.
Prunus mume (Armeniaca mume Sieb. var. mume f. viridicalyx (Makino) T. Y. Chen) is a common landscape plant. It has rich flavonoid content, which shows strong biological activities. In this study, the application potential of flavonoids in Prunus mume in anti-photoaging cosmetics was developed. Firstly, the flavonoids in Prunus mume were extracted by the heating reflux method, and the total flavonoid content reached 192 mg/g under the optimal process conditions determined by orthogonal testing. Then, the crude extract (PMCE) was purified by NKA-II resin column chromatography, and the purity of the flavonoids reached 83.99%. Subsequently, the Prunus mume purified product (PMPP) was analyzed by UHPLC-DAD-QTOF-MS/MS and 45 compounds were identified including flavonoid glycosides, phenolic acids and p-coumaroyl acetylated sucrose. In addition, in vitro biological experiments showed that PMPP had significant repair effects on UVB-induced photoaging of human keratinocytes (HaCaT), lowering reactive oxygen species (ROS) and malondialdehyde (MDA) levels, restoring superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity, and promoting hyaluronic acid (HA) secretion and Aquaporins-3 (AQP-3) levels. The results laid the foundation for the development of the flavonoids in Prunus mume as materials for anti-photoaging cosmetics. Full article
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17 pages, 2417 KiB  
Review
Applications of Elastin in Cosmetics: Prospects and Challenges
by Ting Lei, Lin Ye, Yunlin Pei, Huaiqing Sun and Chaowan Guo
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 18; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010018 - 22 Jan 2025
Viewed by 585
Abstract
Elastin is a crucial component of the extracellular matrix that plays a significant role in maintaining skin elasticity and firmness. Within the dermis, elastin works in collaboration with collagen to form supportive structures that contribute to the overall health and appearance of the [...] Read more.
Elastin is a crucial component of the extracellular matrix that plays a significant role in maintaining skin elasticity and firmness. Within the dermis, elastin works in collaboration with collagen to form supportive structures that contribute to the overall health and appearance of the skin. As individuals age, the rate of elastin synthesis gradually declines, resulting in the degradation of skin elastic fibers, which subsequently leads to skin laxity and the formation of wrinkles. Furthermore, environmental factors, particularly ultraviolet radiation, can exacerbate the degradation of elastin and accelerate the aging process of the skin. Elasticity is regarded as a fundamental aspect of skin health; thus, maintaining adequate levels of elastin is essential for delaying the signs of skin aging and preserving the normal physiological functions of the skin. Currently, elastin has become an important ingredient in anti-aging products, demonstrating significant market potential and application prospects. This review focuses on the structural characteristics, physiological functions, and applications of elastin in cosmetics. Additionally, it discusses novel preparation techniques, future development opportunities, and challenges associated with elastin, with the objective of providing a robust theoretical framework for its application and advancement within the cosmetics industry. Full article
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23 pages, 314 KiB  
Review
Isotretinoin and Hepatotoxicity in Patients with Acne: A Narrative Review
by Weeratian Tawanwongsri, Thanyaporn Kanchanasuwan and Chime Eden
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 17; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010017 - 22 Jan 2025
Viewed by 582
Abstract
Acne vulgaris is a prevalent dermatological condition that is often treated with isotretinoin, a potent medication effective in moderate to severe cases. However, its use requires careful monitoring because of its potential hepatotoxic effects. Isotretinoin has been associated with transient elevations in liver [...] Read more.
Acne vulgaris is a prevalent dermatological condition that is often treated with isotretinoin, a potent medication effective in moderate to severe cases. However, its use requires careful monitoring because of its potential hepatotoxic effects. Isotretinoin has been associated with transient elevations in liver enzyme levels, with mild abnormalities observed in up to 11% of cases. Severe elevations (grade ≥ 3), indicating potential liver dysfunction, occur infrequently, with an incidence of approximately 0.2% to 0.5%. The mechanisms underlying isotretinoin-induced liver injury involve oxidative stress and genetic susceptibility, primarily manifesting as idiosyncratic drug-induced liver injury. Most enzyme abnormalities occur within the initial months of treatment, and their clinical significance varies, with many cases resolving without intervention. A review of large cohort studies highlighted the incidence of abnormal liver function tests, including elevated alanine aminotransferase and aspartate aminotransferase levels. These abnormalities are often present within the first 3 months of therapy, particularly at higher cumulative doses. The role of routine liver function monitoring is debated, with recommendations favoring baseline and early follow-up tests and further testing guided by clinical indicators. Alanine aminotransferase may serve as a more specific marker for liver injury compared to other markers, such as aspartate aminotransferase. This review highlights the importance of evidence-based guidelines to balance effective acne treatment with the risk of isotretinoin-induced hepatotoxicity. Standardizing monitoring protocols and integrating genetic and oxidative stress markers may enhance safety and therapeutic outcomes. Further research is essential to refine these strategies and address gaps in long-term hepatotoxicity data. Full article
12 pages, 521 KiB  
Commentary
Exosomes in Dermatological Research: Unveiling Their Multifaceted Role in Cellular Communication, Healing, and Disease Modulation
by Daniela Pinto, Giammaria Giuliani, Giorgia Mondadori and Fabio Rinaldi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 16; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010016 - 22 Jan 2025
Viewed by 676
Abstract
Exosomes, a subtype of extracellular vehicles (EVs), play a pivotal role in cellular communication and have gained considerable attention in dermatological research. Formed through the inward budding of the endosomal membrane, exosomes facilitate the transfer of proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids, including microRNAs [...] Read more.
Exosomes, a subtype of extracellular vehicles (EVs), play a pivotal role in cellular communication and have gained considerable attention in dermatological research. Formed through the inward budding of the endosomal membrane, exosomes facilitate the transfer of proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids, including microRNAs (miRNAs), thereby influencing the behavior and function of recipient cells. These vesicles are secreted by various cell types, including keratinocytes, and are crucial for maintaining skin homeostasis, regulating immune responses, and promoting wound healing. Exosomes have demonstrated therapeutic potential in addressing dermatological conditions such as hair disorders, skin cancers and photoaging through enhanced regeneration and reduced oxidative stress. However, they are also implicated in disease progression, with pathogens utilizing exosome release to evade host immune responses. Recent studies highlight the diverse origins and functions of exosomes, suggesting their promise as innovative therapeutic agents in dermatology. As research continues to elucidate their multifaceted roles, exosomes represent a frontier in understanding intercellular communication and developing novel treatments for skin-related diseases, underscoring their potential impact on both health and clinical applications. This review synthesizes the existing literature on exosome biology and isolation with a focus on their implications in dermatological contexts. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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18 pages, 6212 KiB  
Article
An Interfacial Study of Sucrose Ester-Stabilized Water-Free Foams
by Wael Kaade, Lucille Drouet, Capucine Dousset, Richard Daniellou and Delphine Huc-Mathis
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 15; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010015 - 21 Jan 2025
Viewed by 483
Abstract
Sucrose esters are biodegradable surfactants widely used in the food and cosmetic industries due to their vast range of hydrophilic to lipophilic balance (HLB) values. However, their application has mostly been reported in aqueous media. With the rising demand for water-free products, a [...] Read more.
Sucrose esters are biodegradable surfactants widely used in the food and cosmetic industries due to their vast range of hydrophilic to lipophilic balance (HLB) values. However, their application has mostly been reported in aqueous media. With the rising demand for water-free products, a gap in the literature exists with regards to water-free colloids stabilized by sucrose esters. In particular, only two articles exist on sucrose ester-stabilized water-free foams, or oleofoams. This article explores for the first time the effects of sucrose ester HLB value on the physical properties of foams. The effects of oil triglyceride content on foamability were studied. The results showed that higher temperatures (90–100 °C) were needed to solubilize more hydrophilic sucrose esters, and these rendered the most encapsulated air (up to 62%) due to their high monoester content (>50%). Surface tension results also showed that the more hydrophilic sucrose esters reduced the oil/air surface tension the most. Regarding the oil triglyceride profile, results showed that with longer fatty acid chains, more air was incorporated into the foam. Sucrose esters have important untapped potential for use in the formation and stabilization of water-free foams. Full article
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26 pages, 10497 KiB  
Review
Beyond Sulfate-Free Personal Cleansing Technology
by Evelyn Su and Stephen Herman
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 14; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010014 - 21 Jan 2025
Viewed by 1495
Abstract
There is a strong global demand for sulfate-free personal cleansing products. The objective of sulfate-free personal cleansing technology should not be aimed solely at the absence of “sulfate” wording in the list of ingredients, but on the true benefits both in personal use [...] Read more.
There is a strong global demand for sulfate-free personal cleansing products. The objective of sulfate-free personal cleansing technology should not be aimed solely at the absence of “sulfate” wording in the list of ingredients, but on the true benefits both in personal use and in environmental effects. These include but are not limited to safety, mildness, and sensory effect for the individual and renewability, low carbon footprint, low water footprint, biodegradability, and sustainability for the environment. In addition, some surfactants or their precursors contain 1,4-dioxane as a by-product of their manufacturing, which is a major safety concern. This paper will deal with sulfate-free cleansing in two parts. Part I will examine the issues surrounding sulfates. Part II will show the benefits of amino acid-based surfactants for cleansing products, and specifically show why glutamates and alaninates are the best choices for safer and more efficacious cleansing. Several metrics will be included to support these conclusions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA)—a Collaborative and Inclusive Platform for Research and Education of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products)
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15 pages, 2053 KiB  
Case Report
A Case Series Report on Superficial Application of Polydensified Cohesive Matrix Hyaluronic Acid Through Biopsies
by Marcela Engracia Garcia, Marisa Gonzaga da Cunha, Ana Maria do Amaral Antonio and Maria Aparecida Silva Pinhal
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 13; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010013 - 20 Jan 2025
Viewed by 558
Abstract
The skin comprises three main layers: epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. The dermis is formed by connective tissue with an extracellular matrix composed of glycosaminoglycans and collagen fibers, providing skin resistance. During aging, the loss of the skin’s biomechanical properties results in sagging. Exogenous [...] Read more.
The skin comprises three main layers: epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. The dermis is formed by connective tissue with an extracellular matrix composed of glycosaminoglycans and collagen fibers, providing skin resistance. During aging, the loss of the skin’s biomechanical properties results in sagging. Exogenous hyaluronic acid is highly used as a filler. However, few studies using biopsies have demonstrated its action as a dermal remodeler and collagen stimulator in superficial applications and using polidensified cohesive gel. Methods: Skin tissues obtained from biopsies in the patient’s arms were evaluated for histological, immunohistochemical, and biochemical analyses, in addition to clinical assessments by skin ultrasound. Biopsies were performed at time zero, three, and six months after intradermal injection of hyaluronic acid with a polydensified cohesive matrix in four women of different age groups. Results: The individual results showed hyaluronic acid synthesis, an increase in type I and III collagen, and a thickening of the dermal layer after the treatment. Conclusion: In four thirty-five to sixty-year-old patients, we observed the effectiveness of using polydensified cohesive matrix hyaluronic acid as a collagen stimulator, thickening the dermis and stimulating endogenous hyaluronic acid synthesis. This study highlights the importance of individual analysis of the variables studied. Full article
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13 pages, 4011 KiB  
Article
Inhibition of Melanogenesis via Passive Immune Targeted Alpha-MSH Binder Polypeptide
by Se-Hyo Jeong, Hun-Hwan Kim, Abigail Joy D. Rodelas-Angelia, Mark Rickard N. Angelia, Pritam Bhagwan Bhosale, Eun-Hye Kim, Tae-Sung Jung, Mee-Jung Ahn and Gon-Sup Kim
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 12; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010012 - 17 Jan 2025
Viewed by 584
Abstract
Alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) is a hormone that stimulates the formation of melanin, which is responsible for protecting the skin from UV rays. However, excessive production of melanin causes pigmentation, leading to skin disorders, such as melasma and freckles. Using phage display technology, [...] Read more.
Alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) is a hormone that stimulates the formation of melanin, which is responsible for protecting the skin from UV rays. However, excessive production of melanin causes pigmentation, leading to skin disorders, such as melasma and freckles. Using phage display technology, we screened a modified hagfish VLRB (α-MSH target binding polypeptide) library for polypeptides that recognize α-MSH. This was expressed in E. coli to produce binding proteins that specifically bind to α-MSH. In this study, we investigated the effect of α-MSH binder protein on the inhibition of melanogenesis in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-MSH and the mechanism of inhibition. The α-MSH-induced inhibition of intracellular and extracellular melanogenesis was accompanied by the downregulation of TRP1 and TRP2, and melanogenesis-related proteins, such as tyrosinase and MITF, were significantly downregulated. These results suggest that the α-MSH binder polypeptide regulates melanogenesis inhibition and its associated mechanisms. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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12 pages, 546 KiB  
Review
Catechins as Antimicrobial Agents and Their Contribution to Cosmetics
by Soraya Ratnawulan Mita, Nurul Inaya Muhtar, Sri Agung Fitri Kusuma, Sriwidodo Sriwidodo and Ryan Proxy Hendrawan
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 11; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010011 - 16 Jan 2025
Viewed by 604
Abstract
Natural ingredients are an important source of bioactive compounds. Among these bioactive compounds, polyphenols are the most interesting because of their health benefits. Catechins are a class of polyphenol compounds that exhibit a range of activities, with applications in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic [...] Read more.
Natural ingredients are an important source of bioactive compounds. Among these bioactive compounds, polyphenols are the most interesting because of their health benefits. Catechins are a class of polyphenol compounds that exhibit a range of activities, with applications in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. These include antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and other therapeutic effects. In cosmetic formulations, catechins can be used as anti-acne agents. Reducing the particle size of catechins affects several of their physicochemical properties and can also increase their absorption rates and solubility. This article discusses the physicochemical properties of catechins and their potential applications as antimicrobial agents. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
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24 pages, 1404 KiB  
Systematic Review
Potential of Natural-Based Sun Protection Factor (SPF): A Systematic Review of Curcumin as Sunscreen
by Ayunda Myela Shabrina, Raden Siti Salma Azzahra, Ivana Nathania Permata, Humaira Praswatika Dewi, Ratnadani Amalia Safitri, Ira Maya, Rizqa Nurul Aulia, Sriwidodo Sriwidodo, Soraya Ratnawulan Mita, Eri Amalia and Norisca Aliza Putriana
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 10; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010010 - 15 Jan 2025
Viewed by 987
Abstract
Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun significantly damages the skin, leading to premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and oxidative stress that disrupts skin homeostasis. UV radiation increases the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), accelerating skin deterioration. Although sunscreens remain the primary method [...] Read more.
Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun significantly damages the skin, leading to premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and oxidative stress that disrupts skin homeostasis. UV radiation increases the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), accelerating skin deterioration. Although sunscreens remain the primary method for UV protection, chemical-based formulations are often associated with side effects, such as allergic reactions and acne. To address these concerns, the inclusion of natural ingredients in sunscreen formulations has gained attention. Curcumin, an active compound found in turmeric (Curcuma longa) and Java turmeric (Curcuma xanthorrhiza), is well-known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This review explores the potential of curcumin as a natural ingredient for enhancing the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products. A systematic literature review was conducted, analyzing 200 articles sourced from Google Scholar and PubMed using keywords such as “Curcumin”, “Curcuma”, “Antioxidant”, “Anti-Inflammatory”, and “Sun Protection Factor”. Studies unrelated to UV protection were excluded. The findings, presented in tabular form, indicate that curcumin and Curcuma exhibit significant potential to enhance SPF values due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and UV-absorbing properties. Additionally, curcumin may aid in skin repair following UV-induced damage. However, the specific concentration of curcumin in various Curcuma species remains unknown, and further research is necessary to determine its optimal use. Consideration of additional excipients in sunscreen formulations is also required to maximize efficacy. In conclusion, curcumin demonstrates considerable promise as a sustainable and effective natural ingredient for protecting the skin from UV radiation, offering a safer alternative to conventional chemical-based sunscreens. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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30 pages, 3032 KiB  
Review
Use of Exosomes for Cosmetics Applications
by Luis Jesús Villarreal-Gómez, Sergio Origel-Lucio, Daniela Alejandra Hernández-Hernández and Graciela Lizeth Pérez-González
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 9; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010009 - 13 Jan 2025
Viewed by 1685
Abstract
This study addresses a significant gap in the clinical validation and standardization of exosome-based applications within the domains of cosmetics and regenerative medicine. Despite offering a thorough overview of the potential therapeutic benefits and underlying mechanisms of exosomes, the manuscript underscores several unresolved [...] Read more.
This study addresses a significant gap in the clinical validation and standardization of exosome-based applications within the domains of cosmetics and regenerative medicine. Despite offering a thorough overview of the potential therapeutic benefits and underlying mechanisms of exosomes, the manuscript underscores several unresolved challenges, including the paucity of clinical evidence, regulatory barriers, inconsistencies in standardization, and incomplete mechanistic understanding. The primary aim of this research is to conduct a systematic and comprehensive review of existing studies on the applications of exosomes in cosmetics and skincare. To achieve this, a systematic literature review was performed, drawing on the major medical database PubMed. This approach facilitated the collection and meta-analysis of relevant data, ensuring a rigorous assessment of recent advancements in exosome research. The main outcomes of the study highlight the multifaceted roles of exosomes in promoting skin rejuvenation and mitigating signs of aging. Specific applications discussed include pigmentation correction, wound healing, tissue repair, and innovative delivery mechanisms. Moreover, the study examines the emerging potential of exosomes in plastic surgery and regenerative medicine. Challenges and limitations, such as regulatory constraints, standardization hurdles, and the need for further clinical validation, are critically analyzed, providing a framework for future research directions. Full article
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19 pages, 1151 KiB  
Systematic Review
Monitoring Health Risks Associated with Body Modifications (Tattoos and Permanent Makeup): A Systematic Review
by Desislava Bakova, Antoniya Yaneva, Stanislava Harizanova, Dobromira Shopova, Anna Mihaylova, Petya Kasnakova, Nikoleta Parahuleva, Mariya Semerdzhieva, Kostadin Bakov and Ilia Iliev
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 8; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010008 - 7 Jan 2025
Viewed by 858
Abstract
The widespread adoption of tattoos and permanent makeup across all social classes and age groups globally has led to an increase in reports of subsequent health problems. This article presents a systematic review aimed at investigating the potential health risks associated with body [...] Read more.
The widespread adoption of tattoos and permanent makeup across all social classes and age groups globally has led to an increase in reports of subsequent health problems. This article presents a systematic review aimed at investigating the potential health risks associated with body modifications (tattoos and permanent makeup), highlighting the need for further research and public education to bridge the gap in knowledge and ensure informed decision-making. A literature search was conducted in accordance with the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines. A comprehensive search was performed in the PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, and ScienceDirect databases for the period between 2014 and 2024. Several significant potential health risks associated with tattoos and permanent makeup were identified: disruption of the skin microbiome, inflammatory processes and infections, allergic reactions and oncological risks, toxicity of tattoo inks, insufficient hygiene, and inadequate aftercare. Despite the prevalence of tattoos, public awareness of the possible associated complications and health risks is low. There is a need for systematic identification and assessment of health and safety risks related to body modification services, as well as the introduction of guidelines to ensure that all necessary measures are taken to prevent health hazards for both clients and professionals performing these procedures. Full article
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10 pages, 456 KiB  
Article
Solid Lipid Nanoparticles for Skin Delivery of Trans-Resveratrol: Impact of Preparation Methods on Formulation Stability
by Andressa Tardim Cruz, Leonardo Delello Di Filippo, Jonatas Lobato Duarte, Antonio José Guillot, Alberto Pérez-García, Ana Melero and Marlus Chorilli
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 7; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010007 - 7 Jan 2025
Viewed by 715
Abstract
Trans-resveratrol (RES) is a natural polyphenol known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, making it highly valuable in cosmetic applications. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) offer a promising solution to enhance RES’s stability and cutaneous availability. This study aimed to develop and characterize [...] Read more.
Trans-resveratrol (RES) is a natural polyphenol known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, making it highly valuable in cosmetic applications. Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) offer a promising solution to enhance RES’s stability and cutaneous availability. This study aimed to develop and characterize SLNs encapsulating RES for enhanced skin delivery. Multiple methodologies were evaluated to determine the impact of preparation methods on formulation stability. SLNs were formulated using stearic acid, soy phosphatidylcholine, polysorbate 80, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, and poloxamer 407, with variations in heating temperatures and homogenization techniques. Stability assessments were conducted over 90 days, examining organoleptic properties of the hydrodynamic diameter, polydispersity index, and zeta potential. Encapsulation efficiency and skin permeation studies were performed to investigate the efficacy of SLNs in delivering RES. Results demonstrated that formulations prepared with Ultra Turrax at 24,000 rpm and heating at higher temperatures exhibited enhanced stability and smaller particle sizes. The selected formulations, F1 (prepared at 80 °C) and F2 (prepared at 70 °C) presented encapsulation efficiencies of 70% and 72%, respectively. Skin permeation studies confirmed the ability of SLNs to facilitate RES delivery through the skin. The study concludes that SLNs are suitable carriers for RES skin delivery, offering improved stability and sustained release, thus representing a promising approach for topical applications to leverage RES’s cutaneous therapeutic benefits. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Nanotechnology Advances in Cosmetics)
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16 pages, 4205 KiB  
Article
Hair Growth-Promoting Effects of Astragalus sinicus Extracts in Human Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells
by Chae Young Jeon, Min Young Go, In-Kyung Kim, Myung-Rye Park, Hyean Woo Lee, Youn-Kyu Kim and Dong Wook Shin
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 6; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010006 - 4 Jan 2025
Viewed by 1012
Abstract
Hair loss is influenced by various stresses and disruptions in the hair growth cycle within hair follicles. The activation of these follicles is primarily driven by dermal papilla cells, which play a central role in the progression of the hair growth cycle and [...] Read more.
Hair loss is influenced by various stresses and disruptions in the hair growth cycle within hair follicles. The activation of these follicles is primarily driven by dermal papilla cells, which play a central role in the progression of the hair growth cycle and formation. Many studies are being carried out on various natural plants to improve hair loss. In this study, we assessed the potential of Astragalus sinicus, known as a pharmacological herb, in mitigating damage to human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) caused by dihydrotestosterone (DHT). We found that Astragalus sinicus extracts (ASEs) facilitated wound healing and elevated alkaline phosphatase expression in DHT-damaged HFDPCs. ASEs also significantly reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by DHT and increased ATP levels by restoring mitochondrial membrane potential in damaged cells. Furthermore, we demonstrated that ASEs substantially enhanced the phosphorylation levels of the AKT/ERK pathway and activated the Wnt signaling pathway in DHT-damaged HFDPCs. Taken together, we suggest that ASEs may be a potential ingredient for enhancing hair loss treatment. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advance in Hair Science and Hair Care Technologies: 2nd Edition)
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22 pages, 4620 KiB  
Article
Potential of Cissampelos pareira L. Pectin as a Bioactive Compound in Moisturizing and Anti-Aging Applications
by Setinee Chanpirom, Nuntawat Khat-udomkiri, Thapakorn Tree-Udom, Naphatsorn Ditthawutthikul, Nisakorn Saewan, Maria Pilar Vinardell and Tawanun Sripisut
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 5; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010005 - 3 Jan 2025
Viewed by 953
Abstract
Cissampelos pareira is a plant known for its edible and medicinal properties, with bioactive potential in various applications. This study aimed to isolate and characterize pectin from C. pareira (PCP) and assess its safety, as well as its efficacy in skin moisturizing and [...] Read more.
Cissampelos pareira is a plant known for its edible and medicinal properties, with bioactive potential in various applications. This study aimed to isolate and characterize pectin from C. pareira (PCP) and assess its safety, as well as its efficacy in skin moisturizing and anti-aging effects on human volunteers. The highest yield of PCP extraction was achieved after a 45 min extraction period. Chemical composition analysis using Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy confirmed the presence of a characteristic pectin structure. Optimized PCP samples revealed high methoxy pectin content, degree of esterification, and galacturonic acid concentration, along with consistent physicochemical properties. PCP exhibited antioxidant activity and showed no cytotoxicity at 1 mg/mL, and effectively reduced hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative damage in NIH/3T3 cells. Stability assessment indicated that PCP maintains its physical appearance and total polysaccharide content after heating–cooling periods. None of the PCP formulations caused skin irritation among volunteers. In an 8-week clinical trial, subjects who used serum formulations containing 0.5% w/w and 1.0% w/w PCP showed significant improvements in skin hydration and elasticity compared to the placebo serum group. While skin smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkling also improved, these anti-aging results were not statistically significant. The results indicated PCP is a promising candidate for skin care applications due to its safety, stability, antioxidant activity, and demonstrated efficacy in enhancing skin hydration and elasticity. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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11 pages, 3947 KiB  
Article
In Vivo Application of the Effects of Red-to-Near-Infrared Light Spectroscopy on Skin-Brightening and Anti-Aging Properties via LED Facial Masks
by Sunghoon Lee, Mohammad M. Afandi, Jungah Lee and Jongsu Kim
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 4; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010004 - 1 Jan 2025
Viewed by 775
Abstract
Most people want effective anti-aging and skin-brightening products. Although red-to-near-infrared (R/NIR) spectroscopy has recently been used in cosmetology, its practical use with high efficacy for anti-aging and skin brightening remains challenging. Herein, we aimed to determine the efficacy and improvement effects of a [...] Read more.
Most people want effective anti-aging and skin-brightening products. Although red-to-near-infrared (R/NIR) spectroscopy has recently been used in cosmetology, its practical use with high efficacy for anti-aging and skin brightening remains challenging. Herein, we aimed to determine the efficacy and improvement effects of a newly developed anti-aging and skin-brightening facial mask. A face study was conducted to assess efficacy and improvement effectiveness, with 21 female volunteers with oily, dry, and normal skin conditions applying the product under study (CF Magic Mask) to their face for 4-week periods. The dermatologist investigator evaluated the skin brightness, skin elasticity, eye wrinkles, dead skin cells on the scalp, dermal density, face lifting, scalp sebum, and global appearance. The mean skin-brightening and anti-aging parameters were improved (p < 0.05) after the use of the newly developed CF Magic Masks for 4-week periods. Significantly, the scalp sebum and dead skin cells on the scalp showed the greatest improvement, being reduced by about 26.71% and 21.96%, respectively. The global assessment by the volunteers showed moderate efficacy and preference, with no adverse effects or skin irritation indicated after the use of the test product. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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9 pages, 1091 KiB  
Communication
Inhibitory Effect of Probiotic Metabolites on Seborrheic Dermatitis and Acne-Related Pathogenic Bacteria
by Qingpeng Meng, Ciying Xiao, Zejian Wang and Yazhuo Shang
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 3; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010003 - 31 Dec 2024
Viewed by 951
Abstract
The topical application of probiotic metabolites has shown positive effects in the treatment of skin diseases; however, the effectiveness is strain dependent. Comparing the pathogen inhibitory effects of probiotic strains with different genetic backgrounds and analyzing their key metabolites can provide insights about [...] Read more.
The topical application of probiotic metabolites has shown positive effects in the treatment of skin diseases; however, the effectiveness is strain dependent. Comparing the pathogen inhibitory effects of probiotic strains with different genetic backgrounds and analyzing their key metabolites can provide insights about the potential of applying probiotics for skincare. In this study, we investigated the fermentation growth inhibition of 18 commercial probiotic strains on the skin pathogens Malassezia furfur (M. furfur) and Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) in vitro. We found that most Bifidobacterium animalis subsp. lactis (B. lactis) and Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus (L. rhamnosus) strains exhibited strong inhibition of M. furfur and C. acnes, which lasted up to 100 h. The main antibacterial metabolites observed were molecules below 10,000 Da in molecular weight, including peptides and organic acids (lactic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, and butyric acid). The synergistic effect of organic acid combinations lowered the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC). The composition of these antimicrobial metabolites varied among strains, which demonstrated the strain-dependent pathogenic inhibitory effects. This study provides insights into the application potential of using probiotic metabolites against seborrheic dermatitis and acne-related pathogenic bacteria. Full article
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21 pages, 2472 KiB  
Article
A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study Evaluating a Novel Skin Care Cream with Olea europaea Stem Cell Extract Following Nd:YAG 1064 nm Laser Epilation
by Vassiliki Gardiki, Athanasia Varvaresou, Spyridon Papageorgiou, Evangelia Protopapa, Panagoula Pavlou, Efstathios Rallis, Apostolos Papadopoulos and Dimitrios Chaniotis
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 2; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010002 - 30 Dec 2024
Viewed by 784
Abstract
The European Society for Laser Dermatology (ELSD) has established recommendations for safe and effective photo epilation; however, short-term common adverse effects occur as a result of laser treatment, such as edema and perifollicular erythema. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation also appears in certain skin types. Very [...] Read more.
The European Society for Laser Dermatology (ELSD) has established recommendations for safe and effective photo epilation; however, short-term common adverse effects occur as a result of laser treatment, such as edema and perifollicular erythema. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation also appears in certain skin types. Very few clinical studies have been conducted on the topical application of cosmetic skin care products aimed at decreasing the adverse effects on the skin epidermis following laser-assisted epilation procedures. Stem cells are found in plant and animal organisms and are responsible for the growth and restoration of damaged tissues. Plant stem cells divide throughout the life of the plant, creating new plant parts. Our aim was to develop a new cosmetic cream to decrease the intensity of some of the side effects of laser epilation and thus reduce the administration of topical medication. We developed a formulation with the active substance Olea europaea (Olive) Callus Culture Lysate (OLEA VITAE™ 02), which is derived from plant stem cells of the Mediterranean wild variety of Olea europaea, for application following laser epilation with an Nd:YAG 1064 nm laser. The new skin care cream was tested for its physicochemical and microbiological stability, according to the European Pharmacopoeia. The impacts of this substance on the potential side effects of Nd:YAG 1064 nm application, i.e., trans-epidermal water loss, keratin hydration, melanin, erythema, and skin elasticity, in comparison with the appropriate placebo, were investigated using biophysical measurements and a self-assessment questionnaire. Skin biopsies were also performed to evaluate the influence of the procedure and the application of the products on the epidermis and papillary dermis thickness. According to our findings, the incorporation of the plant stem cell extract of Olea europaea into our cream resulted in a stable cream with an appealing texture. Furthermore, the activity of erythema and hyperpigmentation was decreased when the cream was applied after Nd:YAG 1064 nm laser epilation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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29 pages, 882 KiB  
Review
Exploring the Antimicrobial Potential of Natural Substances and Their Applications in Cosmetic Formulations
by Katarzyna Kulik-Siarek, Marta Klimek-Szczykutowicz, Ewelina Błońska-Sikora, Emilia Zarembska and Małgorzata Wrzosek
Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 1; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010001 - 29 Dec 2024
Viewed by 865
Abstract
The aim of this review is to analyze natural substances exhibiting antibacterial and antifungal activity against skin pathogens, along with their exemplary applications in cosmetic products. Growing concerns related to increasing infection rates and pathogen resistance have prompted the search for alternative therapeutic [...] Read more.
The aim of this review is to analyze natural substances exhibiting antibacterial and antifungal activity against skin pathogens, along with their exemplary applications in cosmetic products. Growing concerns related to increasing infection rates and pathogen resistance have prompted the search for alternative therapeutic methods. This article discusses various natural products, derived from plants, animals, and minerals, with antimicrobial potential. Special attention is given to the antimicrobial efficacy of natural substances derived from Allium L., Salvia L., Lavandula L., Origanum L., Melaleuca alternifolia, Aloe vera, Black Cumin, and Trigonella L. in improving treatment outcomes, either alone or in combination with conventional medications. In addition, the presented natural products, such as propolis, honey, cosmetic mud, and clays, can serve as viable alternatives or complementary treatments for mild skin infections and may help prevent recurrence. The promising potential of these natural products encourages further research into discovering new antimicrobial agents. However, the lack of standardization of natural preparations can result in inconsistent therapeutic effects and unforeseen side effects. This review significantly contributes to the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries by emphasizing the potential of natural products and highlighting the need for further research and regulatory measures to ensure their safe and effective integration with existing therapies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
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