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Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements
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Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements

A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312). This special issue belongs to the section "Physical Oceanography".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 December 2020) | Viewed by 20253

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Alvise Benetazzo

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Institute of Marine Sciences, National Research Council, Venice, Italy
Interests: ocean waves; extreme events; air–sea interaction; wave–current interaction; climate; data analysis
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Prof. Dr. Filippo Bergamasco

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Environmental Sciences, Informatics and Statistics (DAIS), Università Ca' Foscari of Venice, 30172 Venezia Mestre, Italy
Interests: computer vision; 3D reconstruction; machine learning
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Sea surface waves have important spatio-temporal characteristics that, from a historical point-like observational approach, are not complete if the measurement is restricted to the time dimension. In recent years, we assisted a remarkable technological advancement of instruments like radars, stereo-imaging, and others that permit the remote monitoring of oceanic waves (from satellites, platforms, or vessels) in both their spatial and temporal aspects. In some cases, the sea elevation is directly recovered over a surface area, allowing the retrieval of a 3-D image of the wave field. Indeed, new sensors are continuously improving in accuracy and range of use, from coastal areas to off-shore regions, providing unprecedented data in the study of waves and their interactions with the atmosphere and the ocean. The purpose of this Special Issue is to publish original research articles and review articles covering various aspects of the fascinating field of spatially distributed sea wave measurements. Topics of interest for publication in this Special Issue include, but are not limited to, the following:

  • Wave mechanics and sea surface dynamics;
  • Technology and new developments;
  • Analysis of the wave climate and its extremes;
  • Data fusion and signal processing;
  • Statistical and probabilistic methods;
  • Assessment of wave models.
Dr. Alvise Benetazzo
Prof. Filippo Bergamasco
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • ocean wave observations
  • wave mechanics
  • space-time statistics
  • sea technology
  • wave modelling
  • extreme events
  • wave climate

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Published Papers (6 papers)

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Editorial

Jump to: Research

2 pages, 173 KiB  
Editorial
Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements
by Filippo Bergamasco and Alvise Benetazzo
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9(2), 238; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9020238 - 23 Feb 2021
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1861
Abstract
In recent years, there has been growing interest in remote and proximal observation of sea surface waves [...] Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements)

Research

Jump to: Editorial

15 pages, 8249 KiB  
Article
Internal Waves Study on a Narrow Steep Shelf of the Black Sea Using the Spatial Antenna of Line Temperature Sensors
by Andrey Serebryany, Elizaveta Khimchenko, Oleg Popov, Dmitriy Denisov and Genrikh Kenigsberger
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(11), 833; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8110833 - 22 Oct 2020
Cited by 12 | Viewed by 2422
Abstract
The results of investigations into internal waves on a narrow steep shelf of the northeastern coast of the Black Sea are presented here. To measure the parameters of internal waves, the spatial antenna of three autonomous line temperature sensors were equipped in the [...] Read more.
The results of investigations into internal waves on a narrow steep shelf of the northeastern coast of the Black Sea are presented here. To measure the parameters of internal waves, the spatial antenna of three autonomous line temperature sensors were equipped in the depth range of 17 to 27 m. In observations that lasted for 10 days, near-inertial internal waves with a period close to 17 h and short-period internal waves with periods of 2–8 min, regularly approaching the coast, were revealed. The wave amplitudes were 4–8 m for inertial waves and 0.5–4 m for short-period internal waves. It was determined that most of the short-period internal waves approached from the southeast direction, from Cape Kodor. A large number of short waves reflected from the coast were also recorded. The intensification of short-period waves with inertial periodicity and the belonging of trains of short waves to crests of inertial waves were identified. In general, it was shown that the internal wave field at a narrow shelf significantly differs in its features from analogs of ordinary shelves of the Black Sea. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements)
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15 pages, 7631 KiB  
Article
A Low-Cost Stereo Video System for Measuring Directional Wind Waves
by Matheus Vieira, Pedro Veras Guimarães, Nelson Violante-Carvalho, Alvise Benetazzo, Filippo Bergamasco and Henrique Pereira
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(11), 831; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8110831 - 22 Oct 2020
Cited by 17 | Viewed by 4872
Abstract
Typical oceanographic instruments are expensive, complex to build, and hard to deploy and require constant and specialized maintenance. In this paper, we present a cheap and simple technique to estimate a three-dimensional surface elevation map, η(x,y,t) [...] Read more.
Typical oceanographic instruments are expensive, complex to build, and hard to deploy and require constant and specialized maintenance. In this paper, we present a cheap and simple technique to estimate a three-dimensional surface elevation map, η(x,y,t), the directional spectrum, and the main sea state parameters using inexpensive smartphones. The proposed methodology uses Time Lagged Cross Correlation (TLCC) between the audio signals from two independent video records to perform the frame synchronization. This makes the system much easier to deploy, where the main requirement is a fixed or moving platform close to the sea. The time records are mostly limited by the equipment storage space and battery life, although it can be easily replaced or recharged. Here, we pose the basis for an inexpensive yet powerful stereo reconstruction device and discuss its capabilities and limitations. The smartphone system capabilities were illustrated here by near shore experiment, at Leme beach in the Southeast of Brazil, and the results were compared against a pressure sensor. For this particular setup, the root mean square error in terms of significant wave height is of the order of 11% with perfect estimation of the peak period. The results are promising and demonstrate the validity and applicability of the technique. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements)
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Graphical abstract

14 pages, 2561 KiB  
Article
Short-Term/Range Extreme-Value Probability Distributions of Upper Bounded Space-Time Maximum Ocean Waves
by Alvise Benetazzo, Francesco Barbariol and Silvio Davison
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(9), 679; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8090679 - 3 Sep 2020
Cited by 9 | Viewed by 2562
Abstract
There is general consensus that accurate model predictions of extreme wave events during marine storms can substantially contribute to avoiding or minimizing human losses and material damage. Reliable wave forecasts and hindcasts, together with statistical analysis of extreme conditions, are then of utmost [...] Read more.
There is general consensus that accurate model predictions of extreme wave events during marine storms can substantially contribute to avoiding or minimizing human losses and material damage. Reliable wave forecasts and hindcasts, together with statistical analysis of extreme conditions, are then of utmost importance for monitoring marine areas. In this study, we perform an analysis of the limitations of the available short-term/range extreme-value distributions suitable for space-time maximum wave and crest heights. In particular, we propose an improvement of the theoretical distributions by including upper bounds on the maximum heights that waves may reach. The modification of the space-time probability distributions and its impact for extreme-value assessment is discussed in the paper. We show that unbounded space-time distributions are still effective provided that the surface area included in the analysis has sides smaller than O(102 m). For wider surfaces, the use of the bounded distributions is consistent with the expected saturation of maximum heights that ocean waves attain. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements)
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23 pages, 5538 KiB  
Article
Expected Distribution of Surfing Days in the Iberian Peninsula
by Anna Boqué Ciurana and Enric Aguilar
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(8), 599; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8080599 - 11 Aug 2020
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 4640
Abstract
This study presents, for the first time, a comprehensive characterization of the surf spots around the Iberian Peninsula and provides surfers and stakeholders an evaluation of the expected surfing days per year on each region and spot. The provision of this climate information [...] Read more.
This study presents, for the first time, a comprehensive characterization of the surf spots around the Iberian Peninsula and provides surfers and stakeholders an evaluation of the expected surfing days per year on each region and spot. The provision of this climate information can help to decision-making and limit the economic and social damages caused by climate-related disasters. This product aligns with the concept of climate services, increasingly requested to help economic activities to achieve optimal performances. We employ use in our study of two sources of data: meteorological buoys (Redcos, Redex and Costeira) and citizen science data, specifically information mined from surfers reanalyzed, namely the information contained in the Glassy app for smartphones (GAC & GAS). The surf spots are characterized using bottom type, surf break type and optimal wind (Owd) and optimal swell direction (Osd). Then, we define a surfing day as the ones in which optimal swell direction and waves bigger than 0.9 m occur; using three parameters mean swell direction (Dmd), significant wave height (Hm0) and optimal swell direction for each surf spot (Osd) and compute the expected frequency of surfing days per year. Once this is done, we attempt to validate the approach taken to characterize a surfing day using buoys parameters (Hm0, Hmax, Tp and Dmd) and information about actual surf sessions for a small subset of our spots (i.e., Costa Tarragona). Our findings confirm that the area of western shore is the best suited for surfing, with over 300 days/year, followed by northern shore (300, 200 days/year) and southern and southeastern shores (<100 days/year). We expect that these values may modestly contribute to a climate-informed planning and management of the surfing activities. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements)
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15 pages, 3556 KiB  
Article
Intercomparison of Assimilated Coastal Wave Data in the Northwestern Pacific Area
by Yukiharu Hisaki
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8(8), 579; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8080579 - 1 Aug 2020
Cited by 13 | Viewed by 2778
Abstract
The assimilated coastal wave data are useful for wave climate study, coastal engineering, and design for marine disaster protection. However, the assimilated coastal wave data are few. Here, wave analysis data produced by the JMA (Japan Meteorological Agency) and ERA5 wave data were [...] Read more.
The assimilated coastal wave data are useful for wave climate study, coastal engineering, and design for marine disaster protection. However, the assimilated coastal wave data are few. Here, wave analysis data produced by the JMA (Japan Meteorological Agency) and ERA5 wave data were compared with GPS (Global Positioning System) buoy-measured wave data. In addition, the accuracy of ERA5 wave data for various conditions was investigated. The accuracy of JMA analysis wave height was better than that of ERA5 wave height. The ERA5 wave height was underestimated as the wave height increased. The accuracy of the ERA5 wave height was significantly different in fetch-unlimited and fetch-limited conditions. The difference of the skill metrics between fetch-unlimited and fetch-limited conditions was due to the overestimation of the fetch in the ERA5 grid. This result also applied to the wave period. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Spatially Distributed Sea Wave Measurements)
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