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3 pages, 156 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry

by Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 67; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030067 - 30 Apr 2024

Viewed by 1760

Abstract

There is no doubt that chemistry has provided countless products that have improved people’s lives in almost every aspect [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

Research

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13 pages, 4592 KiB

Open AccessArticle

In Vitro Investigation of the Cytotoxic and Antiproliferative Effects of Haberlea rhodopensis Total Extract: A Comparative Study

by Martina I. Peeva, Maya G. Georgieva, Aneliya A. Balacheva, Atanas Pavlov and Nikolay T. Tzvetkov

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 46; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020046 - 21 Mar 2024

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2343

Abstract

Haberlea rhodopensis Friv., known also as Rhodope silivryak and the Orpheus flower, is a Balkan endemic “resurrecting” plant belonging to the Gesneriaceae family. In folk medicine, the leaves of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. were widely used to treat wounds and some infectious diseases of [...] Read more.

Haberlea rhodopensis Friv., known also as Rhodope silivryak and the Orpheus flower, is a Balkan endemic “resurrecting” plant belonging to the Gesneriaceae family. In folk medicine, the leaves of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. were widely used to treat wounds and some infectious diseases of stock such as foot-and-mouth disease and hoof rot, while the herb of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. is still used to cleanse the stomach, liver, kidneys, and blood vessels. Because of the content of myconoside, during the last decade, Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. extracts have been recognized as valuable cosmetic ingredients. In the present study, we aim to (i) evaluate the cytotoxic and antiproliferative activity of two herb extracts of Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. that are commercially used for the preparation of cosmetic ingredients on different cancer cells, with one normal cell line used as a reference, and (ii) compare the investigated effects with those observed for the reference anticancer, non-selective compound doxorubicin. Herein, we observed a decrease in the inhibitory activity of both extracts compared to those of doxorubicin against all tested cell lines. However, the myconoside-enriched Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 2 (designated also as M2) showed increased inhibitory activity (cytotoxicity and antiproliferative effects) compared to the Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 1 (designated also as E1). Moreover, the Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 2 showed a significant increase in cytotoxicity (at 24 h) and antiproliferative activity (at 48 and 72 h post-treatment) at its highest-tested concentration of 100 µg/mL compared to Haberlea rhodopensis Friv. plant Extract 1. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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12 pages, 3466 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effect of Incorporating a Biowax Derived from Hydroprocessing of Crude Palm Oil in a Facial Cream and a Blemish Balm Cream

by Laura Aguilar, Jonathan Hernández, Luis Javier López-Giraldo and Ronald Mercado

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 123; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050123 - 5 Sep 2023

Viewed by 2155

Abstract

Most waxes used as cosmetic ingredients are derived from the petrochemical industry. A modern alternative to this complex synthesis approach is the hydrotreatment of palm oil; thus, the aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of incorporating a biowax derived from [...] Read more.

Most waxes used as cosmetic ingredients are derived from the petrochemical industry. A modern alternative to this complex synthesis approach is the hydrotreatment of palm oil; thus, the aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of incorporating a biowax derived from hydroprocessing of crude palm oil as a new natural cosmetic ingredient in facial cream and BB cream. Therefore, two water in oil (W/O) emulsions, one including pigments, with five different weight percentages were developed and subjected to further sensory evaluation by a trained panel to estimate the level of acceptance. Moreover, resistance to centrifugation, pH, spreadability, phase separation, viscosity and storage modulus were the parameters evaluated in a preliminary stability study using thermal stress. Sensory analysis showed that the highest level of acceptance was obtained between 3% and 9 wt% biowax. For both prototypes, increasing biowax percentage led to a greater effect on stickiness, the viscosity increased, and extensibility decreased. The formulations were able to maintain their pH. The best stability for BB cream was observed at 9%, since the changes in the properties were slight. For facial cream, the emulsion was more stable at intermediate biowax content. It was observed that biowax exhibits favorable characteristics as an emollient or thickening agent. Finally, the formulations with the best stability and sensory characteristics were obtained at 9 wt% biowax. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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12 pages, 2413 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Protective Effects of Naringenin against UVB Irradiation and Air Pollution-Induced Skin Aging and Pigmentation

by Christina Österlund, Nina Hrapovic, Virginie Lafon-Kolb, Nahid Amini, Sandra Smiljanic and Lene Visdal-Johnsen

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 88; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030088 - 7 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 3812

Abstract

Both UVB irradiation and air pollution are major extrinsic factors causing premature aging of the skin, including sagging, wrinkles, and pigmentation spots. Naringenin, a naturally occurring flavanone, found in citrus fruits, and known for its good antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, was investigated for [...] Read more.

Both UVB irradiation and air pollution are major extrinsic factors causing premature aging of the skin, including sagging, wrinkles, and pigmentation spots. Naringenin, a naturally occurring flavanone, found in citrus fruits, and known for its good antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, was investigated for protective effects in human skin cells and reconstructed epidermis. The results showed that naringenin inhibits UVB-induced inflammation markers MMP1, MMP3, IL6, and GM-CSF, as well as pollution-induced MMP1 in human skin fibroblasts. Furthermore, naringenin inhibited the pollution-induced expression of the CYP1A1 gene in human skin keratinocytes. In melanocytes and pigmented reconstructed epidermis, naringenin significantly downregulated several genes involved in melanogenesis, such as MITF, MLPH, and MYO5A. Additionally topical treatment with naringenin on pigmented reconstructed epidermis significantly decreased melanin production. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that naringenin could be a valuable ingredient in skincare products, protecting against the detrimental effects of both UVB and pollution on the skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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14 pages, 3340 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Preparation and Investigation of the SPF and Antioxidant Properties of O/W and W/O Emulsions Containing Vitamins A, C and E for Cosmetic Applications

by Nikolaos D. Bikiaris, Ioanna Koumentakou, Katerina Hatzistamatiou, Smaro Lykidou, Panagiotis Barmpalexis and Nikolaos Nikolaidis

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030076 - 10 May 2023

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 3546

Abstract

In the current work, Oil in Water (O/W) and Water in Oil (W/O) emulsions containing Vitamins A, C and E in 0.5, 1 and 2% wt concentrations were prepared. The pH and viscosity stability over storage, as well as the sunscreen and antioxidant [...] Read more.

In the current work, Oil in Water (O/W) and Water in Oil (W/O) emulsions containing Vitamins A, C and E in 0.5, 1 and 2% wt concentrations were prepared. The pH and viscosity stability over storage, as well as the sunscreen and antioxidant properties of the obtained emulsions, were investigated. The results obtained showed that vitamins slightly increased the pH of the blank emulsions; however, their pH values were within the acceptable values (pH = 4–6). Nevertheless, all emulsions presented excellent pH stability during storage for up to 90 days. Similar results were observed by rheological measurements as the prepared emulsions did not exhibit viscosity instabilities deriving during storage. Moreover, emulsions containing Vitamin A exhibited higher UV protection than the other emulsions, as the W/O emulsion containing 2% wt Vitamin A presented the highest SPF value at 22.6. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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11 pages, 1397 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Chemical and Rheological Characterization of a Facial Mask Containing an Olive Pomace Fraction

by Raquel Rodrigues, Joana C. Lobo, Diana M. Ferreira, Ewa Senderowicz, M. Antónia Nunes, M. Helena Amaral, Rita C. Alves and M. Beatriz P. P. Oliveira

Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 64; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020064 - 18 Apr 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3224

Abstract

Cosmetic interest in agro-industrial byproducts is growing. In fact, many studies have shown that these residues present bioactive compounds with several skincare applications. One example is olive byproducts, such as olive pomace, which has a composition rich in phenolic compounds. As the production [...] Read more.

Cosmetic interest in agro-industrial byproducts is growing. In fact, many studies have shown that these residues present bioactive compounds with several skincare applications. One example is olive byproducts, such as olive pomace, which has a composition rich in phenolic compounds. As the production of olive oil is increasing, the amount of byproducts being generated is escalating, with significant constraints in their safe disposal due to their phytotoxic nature. The present study aimed to, from a zero-waste perspective, characterize and add value to a sub-byproduct, a semi-solid paste (SSP) derived from a patent process of olive pomace extraction. The chemical analysis of this residue revealed high moisture and significant protein, fat, and ash contents. Furthermore, vitamin E total phenolics and flavonoid content were assessed, as well as antioxidant activity, using DPPH^• (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical) and FRAP (ferric reducing antioxidant power) methods. Based on this primary assessment, a facial mask with antioxidant properties was developed. Rheological analysis showed that the developed mask presented shear thinning behavior, thixotropy, and texture characteristics desirable for skincare use. The results of this study showed the successful incorporation of SSP into facial masks and provides a preliminary assessment of this byproduct’s impact on the appearance and performance of these formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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19 pages, 1083 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Chemical Characterization and Bioactive Properties of Wine Lees and Diatomaceous Earth towards the Valorization of Underexploited Residues as Potential Cosmeceuticals

by Cristina N. Duarte, Oludemi Taofiq, Maria Inês Dias, Sandrina A. Heleno, Celestino Santos-Buelga, Lillian Barros and Joana S. Amaral

Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 58; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020058 - 29 Mar 2023

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 3012

Abstract

Annually, wine production is responsible for generating large quantities of residues, which are frequently disposed of and not valorized. So far, different studies have been conducted on grape pomace, yet less attention has been paid to other residues, such as wine lees and [...] Read more.

Annually, wine production is responsible for generating large quantities of residues, which are frequently disposed of and not valorized. So far, different studies have been conducted on grape pomace, yet less attention has been paid to other residues, such as wine lees and diatomaceous earth used in wine filtration. In this context, this study aimed to evaluate and compare the phenolic profile of these underexploited winemaking residues and assess their biological potential based on their antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytotoxic, and anti-aging activities (inhibition of tyrosinase and collagenase). Twenty-nine phenolic compounds, including twelve anthocyanins, were tentatively identified in the residues, with red grape pomace showing the highest diversity of compounds. The diatomaceous earth presented the highest content of non-anthocyanin phenolic compounds, being particularly rich in flavan-3-ols and myricetin-O-hexoside, and also presenting two anthocyanins. This sample also showed a high antioxidant activity, evidencing the best result in the reducing power assay. The red wine lees extract, despite showing a low content of phenolic compounds and less antioxidant activity, presented the highest inhibition capacity of bacteria growth. The extracts did not exhibit cytotoxicity against keratinocyte (up to 400 μg/mL) and fibroblast (up to 100 μg/mL) skin cell lines. However, the capacity of inhibiting tyrosinase and collagenase was low for the lees and diatomaceous earth, contrary to the grape pomace, seeds, and skins extracts that showed promising results, evidencing its potential as a cosmeceutical. Overall, this study highlights for the first time the potential of diatomaceous earth, an underexploited winemaking waste, in the obtention of added-value extracts and/or ingredients for cosmetic industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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18 pages, 1250 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Potential of Icariin–Glucosamine Combination in the Treatment of Osteoarthritis by Topical Application: Development of Topical Formulation and In Vitro Permeation Study

by Katarzyna Pikosz, Izabela Nowak and Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik

Cosmetics 2023, 10(1), 36; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010036 - 16 Feb 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2262

Abstract

The aim of this study was to develop a topically applied formulation with the potential to alleviate arthritis ailments. A combination of two active ingredients, icariin from Epimedium L. (Species: Epimedium Koreanum) extract as a potential promoter of chondrogenesis and glucosamine sulfate as [...] Read more.

The aim of this study was to develop a topically applied formulation with the potential to alleviate arthritis ailments. A combination of two active ingredients, icariin from Epimedium L. (Species: Epimedium Koreanum) extract as a potential promoter of chondrogenesis and glucosamine sulfate as a precursor of cartilage tissues, was tested. In permeation studies, the potential for skin permeation of both substances was confirmed; however, the in vitro release test did not accurately reflect the degree of skin permeation. The in vitro release of icariin was at a level of 15.0–19.0% for the plant-extract-derived icariin and 29.0–35.0% for the pure substance. The level of glucosamine sulfate release was 38.4% (on average). For icariin of both origins, the release results were higher than those obtained via oral administration (about 12.0%), which shows the potential superiority of topical application. In addition, the physicochemical parameters that affect the in vitro release and performance of topical formulations were addressed. This preliminary research and permeation analysis of the formulation produced a promising picture of its prospects regarding arthritis treatment, although further investigation is needed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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13 pages, 2963 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Analysis of Cosmetic Products Containing Serratula coronata Herb Extract

by Anna Kroma, Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik, Mariola Pawlaczyk, Tomasz Osmałek, Maria Urbańska, Iwona Micek, Joanna Nawrot and Justyna Gornowicz-Porowska

Cosmetics 2023, 10(1), 18; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010018 - 16 Jan 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3693

Abstract

Phytoecdysteroids exert significant anti-inflammatory effects, which makes them valuable ingredients in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, data on their use in cosmetics are limited. Here, a new formulation with the extract of the Serratula coronata herb containing phytoecdysteroids was developed. The aim of [...] Read more.

Phytoecdysteroids exert significant anti-inflammatory effects, which makes them valuable ingredients in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, data on their use in cosmetics are limited. Here, a new formulation with the extract of the Serratula coronata herb containing phytoecdysteroids was developed. The aim of this study was to perform physicochemical characteristics and evaluate the safety of the creams with S. coronata. Chromatography was used to detect the dominant phytoecdysteroids in the extract. The chemical and physical description of the creams was performed using the following parameters: viscosity, pH, and stability. The microbiological purity (pharmacopoeial methods) and transdermal permeability (Raman spectroscopy) were assessed to ensure the safety of the plant extracts used in the creams. The study confirmed the presence of phytoecdysteroid fractions of the S. coronata herb in the creams (20-hydroxyecdysone, polypodine B, and ajugasterone C). The results indicated that the cosmetics containing the S. coronata extract were chemically and microbiologically stable, thereby contributing to their safety. Their effectiveness is the result of transdermal permeability of 20-hydroxyecdysone. In this study, we demonstrated the importance of the S. coronata extract as a source of bioactive phytoecdysteroids and proved that the extract’s characteristics may make it the key ingredient of safe and stable skincare products that support the treatment of various inflammatory skin diseases. These results were a continuation of those presented in our earlier publication. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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Review

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16 pages, 3165 KiB

Open AccessReview

A Recent Update on the Potential Use of Catechins in Cosmeceuticals

by Soraya Ratnawulan Mita, Patihul Husni, Norisca Aliza Putriana, Rani Maharani, Ryan Proxy Hendrawan and Dian Anggraeni Dewi

Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 23; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010023 - 6 Feb 2024

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 4678

Abstract

Catechins are a type of flavonoid known for their beneficial functions as antioxidants and antibacterials. Recent research indicates the antioxidant potential of catechins on the skin. Catechin and epigallocatechin are reported to have significant potential in preventing ageing. Epigallocatechin gallate, gallocatechin gallate, and [...] Read more.

Catechins are a type of flavonoid known for their beneficial functions as antioxidants and antibacterials. Recent research indicates the antioxidant potential of catechins on the skin. Catechin and epigallocatechin are reported to have significant potential in preventing ageing. Epigallocatechin gallate, gallocatechin gallate, and epigallocatechin can inhibit hyperpigmentation processes. Additionally, catechins exhibit potential in UV protection and inflammation inhibition in acne. Consequently, catechins are now being used in the cosmetics industry, with formulations containing catechins as the active ingredient developed to produce various products such as soap, sunscreen, creams, etc. Herein, this paper reviews the antioxidant potential of catechins for use in cosmetic formulations and the current status of clinical trials of catechins in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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18 pages, 2493 KiB

Open AccessReview

Microencapsulation as a Route for Obtaining Encapsulated Flavors and Fragrances

by Agnieszka Kłosowska, Agata Wawrzyńczak and Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik

Cosmetics 2023, 10(1), 26; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010026 - 29 Jan 2023

Cited by 22 | Viewed by 7547

Abstract

Microencapsulation methods for active substances, such as fragrance compounds and aromas, have long been of interest to researchers. Fragrance compositions and aromas are added to cosmetics, household, and food products. This is often because the choice of a particular product is dictated by [...] Read more.

Microencapsulation methods for active substances, such as fragrance compounds and aromas, have long been of interest to researchers. Fragrance compositions and aromas are added to cosmetics, household, and food products. This is often because the choice of a particular product is dictated by its fragrance. Fragrance compositions and aromas are, therefore, a very important part of the composition of these items. During production, when a fragrance composition or aroma is introduced into a system, unfavorable conditions often exist. High temperatures and strong mixing have a detrimental effect on some fragrance compounds. The environments of selected products, such as high- or low-pH surfactants, all affect the fragrance, often destructively. The simple storage of fragrances where they are exposed to light, oxygen, or heat also has an adverse effect. The solution to most of these problems may be the encapsulation process, namely surrounding small fragrance droplets with an inert coating that protects them from the external environment, whether during storage, transport or application, until they are in the right conditions to release the fragrance. The aim of this article was to present the possible, available and most commonly used methods for obtaining encapsulated fragrances and aromas, which can then be used in various industries. In addition, the advantages and disadvantages of each method were pointed out, so that the selection of the appropriate technology for the production of encapsulated fragrances and aromas will be simpler. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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14 pages, 853 KiB

Open AccessReview

The Biological Role of Dead Sea Water in Skin Health: A Review

by Daoxin Dai, Xiaoyu Ma, Xiaojuan Yan and Xijun Bao

Cosmetics 2023, 10(1), 21; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10010021 - 19 Jan 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 14081

Abstract

Applying natural mineral water to skin care is a popular tendency and many cosmetics products based on thermal spring water have been developed. The special location and environmental conditions provide Dead Sea water (DSW) with unique ion composition and concentrations, which bring comprehensive [...] Read more.

Applying natural mineral water to skin care is a popular tendency and many cosmetics products based on thermal spring water have been developed. The special location and environmental conditions provide Dead Sea water (DSW) with unique ion composition and concentrations, which bring comprehensive positive effects on skin health. This article reviews two potential action modes of DSW, and the biological function of DSW and its related complex in dermatology and skin care. Previous studies have proved the functions of skin moisturization, anti-inflammation, skin barrier repair, and anti-pollution. Especially, the anti-aging effect of DSW and related complexes can act in three different ways: keratinocyte rejuvenation, photo-protection, and cellular energy elevation. Additionally, the issues that need further investigation are also discussed. We hope that this review will help to improve the understanding of DSW and its related complex, and further contribute to product development in the skincare industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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