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Cosmetics
Special Issues
Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds
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Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 September 2022) | Viewed by 77346

Printed Edition Available!
A printed edition of this Special Issue is available here.

Special Issue Editor

Dr. Othmane Merah

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Guest Editor
1. Agro-industrial Chemistry Laboratory (LCA), University of Toulouse, 31030 Toulouse, France
2. Biological Engineering Department, Paul Sabatier University, 32000 Auch, France
Interests: plant physiology; plant breeding; bioactives accumulation; essential oils; biofertilizers; cereals; oilseed crop; legumes; vegetables; secondary metabolites; andioxidants
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Plants, algae, and microorganisms are a source of bioactive molecules that can be used in drug, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and skin care products and industries. Moreover, byproducts of several industries can be used as raw materials for added value molecule extraction and uses in the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries. A large amount of research has been undertaken to characterize bioactives in plants, seaweeds, microorganisms, and so on. Among these molecules, special attention was devoted to anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities. These studies have been done on byproducts or on cultivated plants; a few works have focused their attention on the species used in traditional and popular medicine around the world. Measurement methods limit the comparison of information and the evaluation of their activities remain confined to minor uses. The evaluation of creams for skin care, biological effects, antimicrobial, and antitumoral effects needs further investigation.

This Special Issue calls for manuscripts that explore anti-inflammatory and antioxidant proprieties from natural compounds, their distribution in organisms, the methods of measurements, the means to increase their extraction, and their effects for the development of new drugs, foods, and skin care products.

Dr. Othmane Merah
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

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Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • bioactive accumulation
  • antioxidant proprieties
  • anti-inflammatory proprieties
  • bioactive identification
  • biological activities
  • cosmetics applications
  • health benefits

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Published Papers (11 papers)

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Editorial

Jump to: Research, Review

3 pages, 184 KiB  
Editorial
Special Issue “Anti-Oxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds”
by Othmane Merah
Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 80; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030080 - 16 May 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1985
Abstract
Throughout history, humans have utilized plants as conscious or unconscious sources of molecules for food, health and well-being [...] Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)

Research

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17 pages, 836 KiB  
Article
Arbutus unedo: Innovative Source of Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Tyrosinase Phenolics for Novel Cosmeceuticals
by Emna Habachi, Iness Bettaieb Rebey, Sarra Dakhlaoui, Majdi Hammami, Selmi Sawsen, Kamel Msaada, Othmane Merah and Soumaya Bourgou
Cosmetics 2022, 9(6), 143; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9060143 - 16 Dec 2022
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 3160
Abstract
Phenolic compounds are valuable cosmetic ingredients. They display skin protective potential and play an important role in preserving cosmetic formulations due to their ability to neutralize free radicals. Considering this fact, the current study aims to obtain a phenolic-enriched fraction from Arbutus unedo [...] Read more.
Phenolic compounds are valuable cosmetic ingredients. They display skin protective potential and play an important role in preserving cosmetic formulations due to their ability to neutralize free radicals. Considering this fact, the current study aims to obtain a phenolic-enriched fraction from Arbutus unedo for topical application in cosmeceutical products. The chemical composition and the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activities of different extracts from the plant were investigated and compared. Samples were obtained by maceration, reflux, and ultrasound using water and ethanol. The findings indicated that the extraction methods impacted the phytochemical composition of the extracts. The high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC–DAD) analysis showed a wide range of phenolic compounds, comprising phenolic acids and flavonoids. Among the extracts, the water reflux had significant levels of both total polyphenols, flavonoids, and tannins and possessed the most important content on hyperoside. It displayed the most significant antioxidant activities with high antiradical and reducing power, as well as strong total antioxidant activity. It possesses a promising whitening effect with high anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, it shows no cytotoxicity and moderate anti-inflammatory activity. Finally, due to its high yield efficiency and activities, water reflux was selected to formulate a cosmeceutical oil-in-water nanoemulsion that displayed optimal pH and stability. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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9 pages, 1645 KiB  
Communication
Anti-Pollution Activity, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Fermented Extract from Smilax china Leaf in Macrophages and Keratinocytes
by Yoo-Kyung Kim and Dae-Jung Kang
Cosmetics 2022, 9(6), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9060120 - 15 Nov 2022
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2985
Abstract
Air pollution has considerable effects on the human skin, showing that every single pollutant has a different toxicological impact on it. The oxidative stress that exceeds the skin’s antioxidant capacity can lead to oxidative damage and premature skin aging by repeated air pollutant [...] Read more.
Air pollution has considerable effects on the human skin, showing that every single pollutant has a different toxicological impact on it. The oxidative stress that exceeds the skin’s antioxidant capacity can lead to oxidative damage and premature skin aging by repeated air pollutant contact. In this study, according to the generalized protocol available to objectively substantiate the ‘anti-pollution’ claim, we evaluated several biomarkers after pollutants exposure in Raw 264.7 macro-phages and HaCaT keratinocytes to investigate the possibility of anti-pollution cosmetic material of fermented extract from Smilax china leaves (FESCL). FESCL decreased pollutants-induced luciferase activity in a dose-dependent manner, and FESCL significantly inhibited XRE-luciferase activity at a concentration of 1%. The IC50 value of FESCL showed the same DPPH scavenging activity at 0.0625% as ascorbic acid, and the maximum DPPH scavenging activity (92.44%) at 1%. The maximum permissible non-cytotoxic concentrations of FESCL for a Raw 264.7 cell was determined to be 2%, where PGE2 production of FESCL was inhibited by 78.20%. These results show the anti-pollution activity of FESCL against the pollutant-stimulated human living skin explants. In conclusion, we confirmed the anti-pollution potential of FESCL as one of the functional materials in cosmetic formulation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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12 pages, 3089 KiB  
Article
Anti-Inflammatory Activity of the Active Compounds of Sanguisorbae Radix In Macrophages and in Vivo Toxicity Evaluation in Zebrafish
by Young-Ah Jang, Yong Hur and Jin-Tae Lee
Cosmetics 2019, 6(4), 68; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6040068 - 4 Dec 2019
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 5560
Abstract
Sanguisorbae Radix (SR) is the root of the Sanguisorba officinalis L., a plant native to Asian countries and used in traditional medicine. We isolated the active components of SR and investigated their anti-inflammatory potential. Quercetin (QC), (+)-catechin (CC), and gallic acid (GA) were [...] Read more.
Sanguisorbae Radix (SR) is the root of the Sanguisorba officinalis L., a plant native to Asian countries and used in traditional medicine. We isolated the active components of SR and investigated their anti-inflammatory potential. Quercetin (QC), (+)-catechin (CC), and gallic acid (GA) were isolated from acetone extracts of SR. To elucidate the molecular mechanism by which these compounds suppress inflammation, we analyzed the transcriptional up-regulation of inflammatory mediators, such as nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB) and its target genes, inducible NOS (iNOS), and cyclooxygenase (COX)-2, in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated macrophage RAW264.7 cells. Notably, QC, CC, and GA were found to inhibit the production of nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-alpha, and prostaglandin in a dose-dependent manner. Western blot results indicate that the compounds decreased the expression of iNOS and COX-2 proteins. Furthermore, the compounds decreased phosphorylation of IKK, IκB, ERK, p-38, and JNK proteins in LPS-induced cells. The results support the notion that QC, CC, and GA can potently inhibit the inflammatory response, with QC showing the highest anti-inflammatory activity. In in vivo toxicity studies in zebrafish (Danio rerio), QC showed no toxicity up to 25 μg/mL. Therefore, QC has non-toxic potential as a skin anti-inflammatory biomaterial. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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11 pages, 407 KiB  
Article
Phenol Content and Antioxidant and Antiaging Activity of Safflower Seed Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius L.)
by Kamel Zemour, Amina Labdelli, Ahmed Adda, Abdelkader Dellal, Thierry Talou and Othmane Merah
Cosmetics 2019, 6(3), 55; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6030055 - 14 Sep 2019
Cited by 46 | Viewed by 12071
Abstract
The phenol content of vegetable oil and its antioxidant activity are of primary interest for human health. Oilseed species are considered important sources of these compounds with medicinal effects on a large scale. Total phenol content (TPC) and antioxidant activity (AA) of safflower [...] Read more.
The phenol content of vegetable oil and its antioxidant activity are of primary interest for human health. Oilseed species are considered important sources of these compounds with medicinal effects on a large scale. Total phenol content (TPC) and antioxidant activity (AA) of safflower oil were previously studied. Nevertheless, there is no report on genotypic differences and antiaging activity of safflower oil. The aim of this study was to determine the TPC, diphenyl-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and antiaging activity on three respective accessions from Syria, France, and Algeria of seed oil of safflower grown under semi-arid conditions during 3 consecutive years (2015, 2016, and 2017). The results showed that phenol content as well as antioxidant and antiaging activity varied according to both genotype and years. In 2017, the mean value of TPC in oil seed was two times higher than in 2015 and 2016. Moreover, accessions presented different TPC values depending on the year. The highest antioxidant activity was observed among accessions in 2017 compared to 2015 and 2016. As expected, a positive correlation was found between TPC and antioxidant activity. The inhibition in the collagenase assay was between 47% and 72.1% compared to the positive control (83.1%), while inhibition in the elastase assay of TPC ranged from 32.2% to 70.3%, with the positive control being 75.8%. These results highlight the interest of safflower oil as a source of phenols with valuable antioxidant and antiaging activity, and uses for cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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10 pages, 1605 KiB  
Article
Efficiency of Skin Whitening Cream Containing Etlingera elatior Flower and Leaf Extracts in Volunteers
by Nattawut Whangsomnuek, Lapatrada Mungmai, Kriangsak Mengamphan and Doungporn Amornlerdpison
Cosmetics 2019, 6(3), 39; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6030039 - 6 Jul 2019
Cited by 15 | Viewed by 17353
Abstract
Our previous research demonstrated that Etlingera elatior possesses whitening and anti-aging properties and also contains bioactive ingredients for cosmeceuticals. Therefore, this research work aimed to evaluate the efficiency of whitening cream containing both the flower and leaf extracts of E. elatior in human [...] Read more.
Our previous research demonstrated that Etlingera elatior possesses whitening and anti-aging properties and also contains bioactive ingredients for cosmeceuticals. Therefore, this research work aimed to evaluate the efficiency of whitening cream containing both the flower and leaf extracts of E. elatior in human volunteers and their degree of skin irritation. Both the flower and leaf extracts were formulated as a cosmetic called “FL1 cream”, which was assessed for its physical properties and underwent an accelerated stability test. The FL1 cream was also evaluated for skin irritation and its skin whitening effect among 24 healthy volunteers who used it for four weeks. The FL1 cream demonstrated good physical stability under the various conditions for three months, along with six cycles of heating/cooling. The irritation analysis showed that irritation reactions were absent in all volunteers. The efficiency of FL1 cream in improving the appearance of skin whitening was demonstrated by a significant (p < 0.05) and continuous decrease in melanin content compared with the initial value. Additionally, the L* value was significantly and continuously increased after application of the FL1 cream. The highest melanin reduction was 6.67%. The FL1 cream containing E. elatior extracts can be used as a whitening cream in cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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13 pages, 17155 KiB  
Article
Effects of a Phenol-Enriched Purified Extract from Olive Mill Wastewater on Skin Cells
by Peggy Schlupp, Thomas M. Schmidts, Axel Pössl, Sören Wildenhain, Gianni Lo Franco, Antonio Lo Franco and Bandino Lo Franco
Cosmetics 2019, 6(2), 30; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6020030 - 7 May 2019
Cited by 12 | Viewed by 8491
Abstract
Olive trees (Olea europaea) and their processed products, such as olive oil, play a major role in the Mediterranean way of life. Their positive impact on human health is being intensely investigated. One research topic is the identification of new application areas of [...] Read more.
Olive trees (Olea europaea) and their processed products, such as olive oil, play a major role in the Mediterranean way of life. Their positive impact on human health is being intensely investigated. One research topic is the identification of new application areas of olive mill wastewater (OMWW). OMWW is characterized by the high content of polyphenols possessing many positive health effects. Thus, the phenol-enriched OMWW extract offers the potential for the treatment of skin disorders and for cosmetic application. The aim of the present study was to evaluate cell viability and proliferation, the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative properties of a phenol-enriched OMWW extract on an immortal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells). Moreover, the influence on the growth of various microorganisms was investigated; furthermore, the effects on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human melanoma cells (A375) were studied in a commercially available tumor invasion skin model. The phenol-enriched OMWW extract showed excellent antimicrobial activity. Moreover, a noticeable reduction in reactive oxygen species formation as well as Interleukin-8 release in HaCaT cells were observed. Finally, the inhibited growth of A375 melanoma nodules in the melanoma skin model could be shown. Our results indicate that the OMWW extract is a promising ingredient for dermal applications to improve skin health and skin protection as well as having a positive impact on skin ageing. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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Review

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16 pages, 691 KiB  
Review
Hop By-Products: Pharmacological Activities and Potential Application as Cosmetics
by Olívia R. Pereira, Gleiciara Santos and Maria João Sousa
Cosmetics 2022, 9(6), 139; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9060139 - 10 Dec 2022
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 3258
Abstract
Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) are known worldwide as a raw material in beer production due their flavor and preservative values. The beneficial properties of the plant have been mostly associated with the female hop inflorescences (cones), which is also the part used [...] Read more.
Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) are known worldwide as a raw material in beer production due their flavor and preservative values. The beneficial properties of the plant have been mostly associated with the female hop inflorescences (cones), which is also the part used in the brewing industry. However, some studies indicate the presence of compounds associated with health benefits in the vegetative parts of hops or small-caliber cones, which discarded in hop collection. Moreover, large quantities of by-products remain in the forms of spent grains and spent hops/hot trub and are produced by breweries raising environmental and economic sustainability concerns. This review focuses on the phytochemicals and biological and pharmacological activities of hop and their potential use in skin care products and also intends to explore the potential of the hop’ discarded parts and brewery industry by-products for production in the cosmetics industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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23 pages, 1987 KiB  
Review
From Traditional Knowledge to Modern Formulation: Potential and Prospects of Pistacia atlantica Desf. Essential and Fixed Oils Uses in Cosmetics
by Asma El Zerey-Belaskri, Nabila Belyagoubi-Benhammou and Hachemi Benhassaini
Cosmetics 2022, 9(6), 109; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9060109 - 25 Oct 2022
Cited by 9 | Viewed by 5133
Abstract
Pistacia atlantica Desf. (Atlas pistachio) is one of the most widely distributed wild species of the genus. It is an Irano–Touranian species with a large geographic area that extends from the Canary Islands to Pamir Mountains. Since ancient times, atlas pistachio gum-like resin [...] Read more.
Pistacia atlantica Desf. (Atlas pistachio) is one of the most widely distributed wild species of the genus. It is an Irano–Touranian species with a large geographic area that extends from the Canary Islands to Pamir Mountains. Since ancient times, atlas pistachio gum-like resin and fruits, very rich in essential oils (EOs) and fixed oils (FOs), respectively, were used in traditional medicine and included in different traditional cosmetics and health and beauty products. Since then, Atlas pistachio fixed oil is incorporated into several soaps, creams and shampoos to benefit from its medicinal properties. Atlas pistachio fixed oils, resin and leaf essential oils are constituted by several bioactive compounds such as monoterpenes with α-pinene and β-pinene in the resin, terpinen-4-ol, elemol, sesquiterpenes with D-germacrene and E-caryophyllene in the leaves and oxygenated monoterpenes (bornyl acetate) in the fruits. The unsaturated fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, palmitic and stearic acid), sterols (β-sitostero) and tocopherols represented the principal compounds in fatty oil fruits. All these compounds exhibit great therapeutic and cosmetic virtues. Unlike lentisk oil uses in cosmetology, the cosmetic potentials of Atlas pistachio oils remain less valued. In the current review, we seek to highlight the characteristics and properties of Atlas pistachio oils in the prospects of the development of new and different cosmetic formulations as well as an innovative valuation of active ingredients and products inspired by indigenous knowledge and practices. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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44 pages, 977 KiB  
Review
Plant and Herbal Extracts as Ingredients of Topical Agents in the Prevention and Treatment Radiodermatitis: A Systematic Literature Review
by Agnieszka Kulawik-Pióro and Weronika Joanna Goździcka
Cosmetics 2022, 9(3), 63; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9030063 - 14 Jun 2022
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 5899
Abstract
Background: The use of herbal extracts as the source of antioxidant substances capable of neutralizing free radicals and providing protection from ionizing radiation appears to be an alternative therapy for radiodermatitis. As concerns the prevention and treatment of side effects, a lot of [...] Read more.
Background: The use of herbal extracts as the source of antioxidant substances capable of neutralizing free radicals and providing protection from ionizing radiation appears to be an alternative therapy for radiodermatitis. As concerns the prevention and treatment of side effects, a lot of recommendations are based on proper experience of radiotherapy centers. We summarize recent research aiming at reducing radiation-induced skin injuries by use of proper skin care, using topical preparations with herbal extracts including onco-cosmetics. Methods: This article is limited to a critical analysis of scientific and professional literature. It concerns preparations in different physicochemical forms, e.g., gels, emulsions, ointments. We stress the connection between the type of applied skin care (type of preparation, its composition, the dose), the properties of the herbal extract and the evaluation of its efficiency in preventing and treating radiation reaction on skin. Conclusions: Herbal extracts can be added to recipes because they are part of a category of cosmeceutical supplements and can be introduced into preparations without prescription. The effectiveness evaluation for herbal extracts in radiotherapy is not an easy task since there are no strict guidelines. Studies should be preceded by the analysis of herbal extracts and recipe in terms of physicochemical, dermatological and performance characteristics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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19 pages, 842 KiB  
Review
Apiaceae as an Important Source of Antioxidants and Their Applications
by Punniamoorthy Thiviya, Ashoka Gamage, Dinushika Piumali, Othmane Merah and Terrence Madhujith
Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8040111 - 22 Nov 2021
Cited by 50 | Viewed by 9421
Abstract
The excess level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) disturbs the oxidative balance leading to oxidative stress, which, in turn, causes diabetes mellites, cancer, and cardiovascular diseases. These effects of ROS and oxidative stress can be balanced by dietary antioxidants. In recent years, there [...] Read more.
The excess level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) disturbs the oxidative balance leading to oxidative stress, which, in turn, causes diabetes mellites, cancer, and cardiovascular diseases. These effects of ROS and oxidative stress can be balanced by dietary antioxidants. In recent years, there has been an increasing trend in the use of herbal products for personal and beauty care. The Apiaceae (previously Umbelliferae) family is a good source of antioxidants, predominantly phenolic compounds, therefore, widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, cosmeceutical, flavor, and perfumery industries. These natural antioxidants include polyphenolic acids, flavonoids, carotenoids, tocopherols, and ascorbic acids, and exhibit a wide range of biological effects, including anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, anti-atherosclerosis, and anticancer. This review discusses the Apiaceae family plants as an important source of antioxidants their therapeutic value and the use in cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)
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